Hose Clamps, Constant Tension type

[GA Architect]

The Indian Head Shellac isn't for everyone to use......

 

[wngrog]

The Indian Head Shellac isn't for everyone to use......

Would you hold it until you had a sleeping leak the band would not cure?

 

[GA Architect]

Would you hold it until you had a sleeping leak the band would not cure?

If you have good, straight connections, it wouldn't be needed.

I've heard; An ounce of prevention, is worth a pound of cure.

 

[woytovich]

Or, in this case, a foot-pound of cure

 

[GA Architect]

Note, use a "Q-Tip" to apply the Indian Head Shellac. Also, you don't need to go crazy with the stuff.

Or, in this case, a foot-pound of cure

Being the radiator hoses are larger, you would be able to twist them apart fairly easy. Thus, it isn't a total glue connection like an epoxy or resin. It is a gasket sealant only.

 

[Green Bean]

I'm just trying to visualize using a hose pick tool up under the thermostat housing on the bypass...

Reviving an old thread.... I will be replacing all of the hose clamps with double wire stainless from City Racer. I suppose that it is necessary to drain all of the coolant before tackling this job. But I would like confirmation. If I'm going to drain the coolant, might as well do a proper flush. Any suggestions on techniques? Also, it seems to me that I have read of various techniques for "burping" the system afterwards in order to get the air out. I'd appreciate any guidance on that.
Thank you.

 

[iptman]

Also, it seems to me that I have read of various techniques for "burping" the system afterwards in order to get the air out. I'd appreciate any guidance on that.
Thank you.

Get one of these....

24680 Spill-Free Funnel

The new clear funnel allows a quick visual check of the coolant from across the shop. Comes with a lid to keep contaminants out as well as store the caps and adapters.

www.lislecorp.com

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Reviving an old thread.... I will be replacing all of the hose clamps with double wire stainless from City Racer. I suppose that it is necessary to drain all of the coolant before tackling this job. But I would like confirmation. If I'm going to drain the coolant, might as well do a proper flush. Any suggestions on techniques? Also, it seems to me that I have read of various techniques for "burping" the system afterwards in order to get the air out. I'd appreciate any guidance on that.
Thank you.

I don't think you have to remove the hoses to get the City Racer clamps on but maybe someone else can confirm. If that's the case then it depends on what type of clamps you have to remove. Some clamps come apart and some don't. I guess you could always loosen and then cut the old clamps off if you're just going to toss them anyway (assuming they don't come apart).

Lot's of threads on flushing the coolant system. Never hurts to do that every 2 years or so.

 

[AntFarm]

I can confirm on this. Yes you have to remove the hoses to get the double-wire stainless clamps on. Unless you are more of a tavern-puzzle whiz than myself, I just don't see any other way to do it. One additional tip on this job, the largest size (58mm if I recall?) of the stainless double wire clamps does not work with aftermarket lower radiator hoses (i.e. Gates) that have a thinner wall thickness than OEM hoses. Do yourself a favor and source the OEM hoses all around. There is a noticeable difference between the two, at least in the large diameter lower hoses. Also, I like the results of using Sil-Glyde on all the coolant hose joints. It stays slick, kind of like vaseline, and allows for easy removal and repositioning of hoses.

 

[germaneighter]

The Indian Head Shellac isn't for everyone to use......

I love Indian Head Shellac but the last time I went to purchase some all I could find was Lion Head Shellac. I thought it must have been a PC thing. I've even used it successfully on a threaded fuel line connection that was seeping. (emergency situation on the road)

 

[Green Bean]

I can confirm on this. Yes you have to remove the hoses to get the double-wire stainless clamps on. Unless you are more of a tavern-puzzle whiz than myself, I just don't see any other way to do it. One additional tip on this job, the largest size (58mm if I recall?) of the stainless double wire clamps does not work with aftermarket lower radiator hoses (i.e. Gates) that have a thinner wall thickness than OEM hoses. Do yourself a favor and source the OEM hoses all around. There is a noticeable difference between the two, at least in the large diameter lower hoses. Also, I like the results of using Sil-Glyde on all the coolant hose joints. It stays slick, kind of like vaseline, and allows for easy removal and repositioning of hoses.

Thanks. I ended up draining the system (most of it puked on our garage floor) This "quick little" project has turned into a bit of a worm hole venture. I started out just to replace a few tattered looking hose clamps with OEM-style. But the clamps that I ordered were bottoming out and not snugging up on the larger bottom hoses. So, I ended up going a different route ordering 1/2" solid band SS clamps (Sizes 10, 20, 24 1nd 28). Also, I ordered replacement hoses, thermostat & gasket. I decided too that ,while in the deep recesses of this worm hole, I might as well flush the radiator

 

[GA Architect]

I love Indian Head Shellac but the last time I went to purchase some all I could find was Lion Head Shellac. I thought it must have been a PC thing. I've even used it successfully on a threaded fuel line connection that was seeping. (emergency situation on the road)

View attachment 2749263

I'm not familiar with that brand. Below is what I purchased at the FLAPS location just down the road.

If they stop making the Indian Head, I'll go with the Aviation version.

 

[Honger]

I found this doing a search. Great thread. I like the idea of using Indian Head for hose-to-housing connections. Especially back up behind the all the belts on the small hoses in there.

Question: Does anyone have guidance on torque specs for the OEM wire-band style clamps? I've used them with success over the years. Have always tightened them til they felt right. Is there an actual spec torque for these?

 

[wngrog]

I found this doing a search. Great thread. I like the idea of using Indian Head for hose-to-housing connections. Especially back up behind the all the belts on the small hoses in there.

Question: Does anyone have guidance on torque specs for the OEM wire-band style clamps? I've used them with success over the years. Have always tightened them til they felt right. Is there an actual spec torque for these?

I go with my 1/4” light duty Milwaukee until it stops

 

[Honger]

I go with my 1/4” light duty Milwaukee until it stops

Well, that is a bit more precise than my method... a 1/4" ratchet until it "feels about right".

 

[wngrog]

By the way, I give this stuff a thumbs down. Takes too long to cure.

I just assembled a motor with all Toyota clamps dry. I’ll chase any leaks if I have any with Permatex

 

[GA Architect]

Post #52 updated….carry on with the good info!

 

[wngrog]

Clamps. Clamps and more clamps.