What type of paint? (1 Viewer)

[45Dougal]

So.. I see a lot of pretty looking trucks that have been repainted recently.
I also see the very hard enamel paint from the factory on my truck (with various layers underneath to bond to the metal)...

Paint tech has been moving pretty fast over the last few years.

What type of paint are you guys using now to get that factory or non factory finish? And why?

 

[73FJ40]

I used RM UNO HD, single stage urethane. Easy to spray, orange peel buffs out no problem, easy to repair. The Uno grade sticks like glue.

EU regs may frown on solvent-based coatings. RM has a line of water-based coatings as well.

 

[knuckle47]

I have only painted enamels during a few vintage motorcycle restorations. A friend set me up with conventional PPG and DuPont enamels and thinners but told me to use an additive called DELTRON 80 hardener. This made the paint very glossy and hard enough that the surfaces were so much more durable. Motorcycle frames and handlebars from decades ago looked near perfectly “dipped”. I was super happy with the outcome and I’m not a paint person.

I still have a quart can of this but I think is is either ridiculously expensive or possibly changed to this

PPG Deltron D802 Hardener – PPG Caucasus

ppgcaucasus.ge

 

[charliemeyer007]

Seems like a lot of newer cars have paint issues - started right after they switch to water based paint IMHO.

 

[45Dougal]

Seems like a lot of newer cars have paint issues - started right after they switch to water based paint IMHO.

Yea the water based paint seems to lose its lustre pretty quickly from what I've seen.
The Uno sounds like an evolution on 2- pack acrylic(?) which although it's technically frowned upon for automotive use, there's still a case to use it on (one-off) classic vehicles. Needs an air-fed mask though i assume.
The enamel looks great. I'll look into the hardener option..

 

[pb4ugo]

You should visit your local paint supply shop and ask questions. They want you to succeed in your project so you'll come back. A lot of paint manufacturers have various systems, sealers, primers, and top coat that all work together. Each step has various mixing ingredients. I'm new to this so I don't know enuff to deviate from that.
I've been using single stage, ppg omni system. I’ve been happy with my results considering i barely know what im doing. I picked up some inexpensive paint guns and equipment. Each stage comes with instructions on sanding, mixing, flash times, paint gun tips and air pressures and such. Most important is prep. I've also watched a ton of videos on how to apply the paint for good results.

 

[knuckle47]

@pb4ugo that is EXACTLY how I started…I have a friend that represents a cluster of body work products to auto-body shops and if I ask him, he can just set it in motion, drop off the stuff to my house and I pay him…he tells me what and how much to mix. Frankly, the best thing I have used was that original DELTRON 80. By adding a few ounces to the mix, the gloss was fantastic.

The paint was super hard and did not chip. I worked alone and had no tools that would lift an v-Twin or inline 4 cyc engine back into the frame beyond my bear hug brute strength. If you can imagine the possibilities for banging the two parts together during that process…the paint never chipped.

When I painted this boat…he told me what to use and what to mix. This boat banged against the docks for 7 years while I had it and never showed 1
Bump or bruise and it was never sanded or buffed

 

[pb4ugo]

I will look into that hardener for the future. I've been removing and painting panels while driving it, fenders, hood, etc. I've been making sure panels are stripped and epoxy sealed. I figure if that's done correctly, i can always go back and correct paint issues in the future. Soon I'll have to address the tub, I figure I can do some small body body repairs while driving it, but eventually I'll have to dig deeper into a rt rear 1/4 panel. I have a friend who has painted several vehicles and his father has built several Tri Five Chevs show cars so i get lean on them. A lot of my questions are on best practices on prep and paint techniques.

 

[45Dougal]

Yea I've also been removing panels in between driving it and so far I've just been working small with a variety of rust proofing and bespoke rattle cans from my local paint shop (Buzzweld).

I'll certainly be back in there for more advice, but it's great to hear what others are using

 

[knuckle47]

If you want me to ask my friend for advice on anything, please just let me know…. This guy is a real pro and has not let me screw up in over 10 years

 

[Wasatch Jay]

The big auto paint manufacturers such as DuPont (now Axalta), PPG, BASF and Sherwin Williams typically offer different paint lines at different price points. The upper end paints are in the YGTBSM price category. Realize too, different colors are more expensive than others.

There are also smaller paint manufacturers that sell much cheaper paints and the Internet is full of people and Internet posts who swear by those paints. In this case I’m talking about names like Kirker, Southern Polyurethanes, Tamco, Eastwood and Summit, but there are many more. Several years ago I had a K5 Blazer painted by a fellow who does very high end muscle car paint jobs, and I asked him to use Southern Polyurethanes paint. He did, and when all was said and done, he was decidedly unimpressed with the paint.

Since then I’ve been buying Sherwin Williams automotive paint, and using their Sunfire Pro line. I’ve been very pleased with the outcome, and the price has been reasonable. But a big factor is the customer service from the representative, who is just incredible.

A debate is whether to go single stage or base-clear. I used to be a single stage guy, but my Sherwin Williams contact, who has been awesome to work with, has made me a believer in base-clear.

VOCs, or Volatile Organic Compounds are a big deal and 2.8 VOC is a threshold number. I think California, as well as a number of other metropolitan areas, require paint at less than 2.8, whereas “National Rule” areas do not have that requirement. Most paint sprays better when it’s thinned, and adding thinner boosts the VOC number. So “officially” paint manufacturers are conservative in their thinning recommendations to meet the VOC requirements. However, once you own the paint you are doing the mixing and spraying. My personal philosophy is to use what works best….

 

[45Dougal]

The big auto paint manufacturers such as DuPont (now Axalta), PPG, BASF and Sherwin Williams typically offer different paint lines at different price points. The upper end paints are in the YGTBSM price category. Realize too, different colors are more expensive than others.

There are also smaller paint manufacturers that sell much cheaper paints and the Internet is full of people and Internet posts who swear by those paints. In this case I’m talking about names like Kirker, Southern Polyurethanes, Tamco, Eastwood and Summit, but there are many more. Several years ago I had a K5 Blazer painted by a fellow who does very high end muscle car paint jobs, and I asked him to use Southern Polyurethanes paint. He did, and when all was said and done, he was decidedly unimpressed with the paint.

Since then I’ve been buying Sherwin Williams automotive paint, and using their Sunfire Pro line. I’ve been very pleased with the outcome, and the price has been reasonable. But a big factor is the customer service from the representative, who is just incredible.

A debate is whether to go single stage or base-clear. I used to be a single stage guy, but my Sherwin Williams contact, who has been awesome to work with, has made me a believer in base-clear.

VOCs, or Volatile Organic Compounds are a big deal and 2.8 VOC is a threshold number. I think California, as well as a number of other metropolitan areas, require paint at less than 2.8, whereas “National Rule” areas do not have that requirement. Most paint sprays better when it’s thinned, and adding thinner boosts the VOC number. So “officially” paint manufacturers are conservative in their thinning recommendations to meet the VOC requirements. However, once you own the paint you are doing the mixing and spraying. My personal philosophy is to use what works best….

Thanks for the insight.
Regarding VOCs, I'd say that painting it once with a slightly higher VOC has got to be better than painting it three times with a lower count..

 

[Augustiron]

I'm just here to put in my vote for krylon.

 

[eaj71]

Omni single stage
Harbor ft spray gun
Good primer and sanding
Decent compressor that keeps up
good buff and shine