Finished up the F air cleaner adaptor. Originally used the all star 1/2” but it was too close to the Sniper. Final fit is the 1” adaptor and milled 1/2” off of Redline’s intake adaptor. I’ll clean it up and give it some paint next.
Holley Sniper 2 barrel conversion (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter 74fj40
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My only problem is wondering if this is effecting the iac. Note the iac at 0 and at 1. I think I initially started at iac 6. It settled at iac 4 after driving for a bit.
I drove the 40 after it sitting for a few weeks and it drove great. I parked it then started again and the iac read 100. Went and adjusted screw and iac back down to ~ 6. Drove again, ran great. Turned off then started later and go the same 100 read. Not sure what’s going on
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Are you letting the truck warm up? The IAC will not settle until it’s warmed up
yes. It was 161 in that pic but earlier it was 181.
edit: Hey Moneypit, I meant to post this Friday but neglected to hit "enter" 
Posting now in case any of this is at all helpful. ✌
You can get an idea what the actual IAC is doing by putting your finger over the IAC port, the 1/2"ish hole on top, next to one of the barrels. If your display is reading 100, but your IAC is not actually open I'd say it's a bad IAC or bad connection somewhere. You should be able to hear and feel the air at the port, and the engine will slow if you plug the port.
On the TPS, keep in mind that it re-zeros whenever you cycle the ignition. If it doesn't return to zero then it is something that changed since the last time you started the rig. It doesn't really need to go back to zero every time you let off the gas, and doesn't really affect anything as long as it drops to 2% TPS or less. I did my best getting the throttle linkage and everything to move fee and clear but my TPS still doesn't always drop to zero. It just needs to get to 2% or less so that IAC will switch from the IAC hold position (% while you're driving), to controlling the idle speed.
There is always a lot of talk about getting the IAC % at idle to be between 2-10%. That is a good zone to be in, with the idle speed being dependent on the IAC. If the IAC is sitting at 0% it would not have any authority to slow the idle at all. Would cause no harm at all, you just might see it idle too high when the motor is warmed up. I have read having the IAC above 10% might affect the Ramp-down when you let off the throttle, possibly making the motor more likely to stall? But still not really that big of a deal. What I'm getting at is don't worry about getting the IAC position at idle just right. It tends to fluctuate a lot depending on different factors, that's what its supposed to do.
If you IAC is really at 100, somethings up though. Put your finger over the port to see if it's really open.
Hope this helps a little.
B.
Posting now in case any of this is at all helpful. ✌You can get an idea what the actual IAC is doing by putting your finger over the IAC port, the 1/2"ish hole on top, next to one of the barrels. If your display is reading 100, but your IAC is not actually open I'd say it's a bad IAC or bad connection somewhere. You should be able to hear and feel the air at the port, and the engine will slow if you plug the port.
On the TPS, keep in mind that it re-zeros whenever you cycle the ignition. If it doesn't return to zero then it is something that changed since the last time you started the rig. It doesn't really need to go back to zero every time you let off the gas, and doesn't really affect anything as long as it drops to 2% TPS or less. I did my best getting the throttle linkage and everything to move fee and clear but my TPS still doesn't always drop to zero. It just needs to get to 2% or less so that IAC will switch from the IAC hold position (% while you're driving), to controlling the idle speed.
There is always a lot of talk about getting the IAC % at idle to be between 2-10%. That is a good zone to be in, with the idle speed being dependent on the IAC. If the IAC is sitting at 0% it would not have any authority to slow the idle at all. Would cause no harm at all, you just might see it idle too high when the motor is warmed up. I have read having the IAC above 10% might affect the Ramp-down when you let off the throttle, possibly making the motor more likely to stall? But still not really that big of a deal. What I'm getting at is don't worry about getting the IAC position at idle just right. It tends to fluctuate a lot depending on different factors, that's what its supposed to do.
If you IAC is really at 100, somethings up though. Put your finger over the port to see if it's really open.
Hope this helps a little.
B.
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@BrianSanDiego is spot on. An IAC is a quick swap out from the parts house too.
Thanks for the reply this is great info. It has gone back to normal after adjustment again. I’ve driven a few times since and no problem. Wondering if it is a defect or got stuck or something. I’ll monitor. I’ve found that having the iac set around 8-10 has suited my car better and no more stalls. Thanks for the info on the tps as well. It still starts at 0 but sticks at 1 after driving. I’ll learn to ignoreedit: Hey Moneypit, I meant to post this Friday but neglected to hit "enter"
You can get an idea what the actual IAC is doing by putting your finger over the IAC port, the 1/2"ish hole on top, next to one of the barrels. If your display is reading 100, but your IAC is not actually open I'd say it's a bad IAC or bad connection somewhere. You should be able to hear and feel the air at the port, and the engine will slow if you plug the port.
On the TPS, keep in mind that it re-zeros whenever you cycle the ignition. If it doesn't return to zero then it is something that changed since the last time you started the rig. It doesn't really need to go back to zero every time you let off the gas, and doesn't really affect anything as long as it drops to 2% TPS or less. I did my best getting the throttle linkage and everything to move fee and clear but my TPS still doesn't always drop to zero. It just needs to get to 2% or less so that IAC will switch from the IAC hold position (% while you're driving), to controlling the idle speed.
There is always a lot of talk about getting the IAC % at idle to be between 2-10%. That is a good zone to be in, with the idle speed being dependent on the IAC. If the IAC is sitting at 0% it would not have any authority to slow the idle at all. Would cause no harm at all, you just might see it idle too high when the motor is warmed up. I have read having the IAC above 10% might affect the Ramp-down when you let off the throttle, possibly making the motor more likely to stall? But still not really that big of a deal. What I'm getting at is don't worry about getting the IAC position at idle just right. It tends to fluctuate a lot depending on different factors, that's what its supposed to do.
If you IAC is really at 100, somethings up though. Put your finger over the port to see if it's really open.
Hope this helps a little.
B.
- Thread starter
- #309
While reinstalling my steering shaft a couple weeks ago, I shorted it on the back of the alternator. Didn’t think that much of it till today when I was going to start it. Fuel pump doesn’t kick On and screen doesn’t turn on 
I’ll update as soon as I know more. Really bummed out right now!
I’ll update as soon as I know more. Really bummed out right now!
I was on the phone with a Dakota Tech. He warned me that with all of the added electronics it’s important to disconnect the battery before working on anything. He also warned against using a Boost/start feature on a battery charger, they are repairing a lot of controllers that have been fried.
- Thread starter
- #312
Checked all fuses, power and ground. All is good. Unit is totally dead.
Called holley tech support, was totally upfront and honest about my mistakes. They are covering it under warranty even though its 2 years old. Top notch customer service. Highly recommend holley!
Called holley tech support, was totally upfront and honest about my mistakes. They are covering it under warranty even though its 2 years old. Top notch customer service. Highly recommend holley!
Still having iac issues. Not able to hold iac. Started at 100 again. Warmed to temp and adjusted. As soon as I get to around 10 it eventually does not hold and slowly drops to 0. Also, can someone tell me what the blue thing is and also I found much debris there clean off with a little carb cleaner and part of blue stuff came off.
Just another update. Started again, was able to set iac. I’m starting to believe it may be a bad iac motor.
mrboatman
GOLD Star
Have you sent those pics to Holley to see what they think?
JP
JP
I’m going to contact Holley regarding iac. I’ll see if they want pics as well.
Starting to consider going this route over the 2FE is was originally planning. I originally steered away from the TBI due to the stories of PROM issues and the feedback from users that it was never "perfect" and there was always a compromise somewhere.
For those of you who have been running and wheeling this on a 2F for a while (mine is a 1981, but have an 87 2F block setting at the ready, if need be) how is it doing?
I haven't read through this entire thread yet (but I will, for sure), so I am curious about the ideal component setup for this system.
What distributor (have an MSD box with stock late 2F dizzy now)
Throttle pedal/linkage requirements or modifications
Fuel pump requirements (stock under body FJ40 fuel tank)
Any other things to consider?
Thanks for the input!
For those of you who have been running and wheeling this on a 2F for a while (mine is a 1981, but have an 87 2F block setting at the ready, if need be) how is it doing?
I haven't read through this entire thread yet (but I will, for sure), so I am curious about the ideal component setup for this system.
What distributor (have an MSD box with stock late 2F dizzy now)
Throttle pedal/linkage requirements or modifications
Fuel pump requirements (stock under body FJ40 fuel tank)
Any other things to consider?
Thanks for the input!
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Thanks! I appreciate the quick response.
I just found @FJ60Cam's Mosely Motors site right after posting this and reading through more of the threads.
The more I read, the more I am liking this "new" EFI option. Much better than the old options.
