What would make the iac go from 4 at idle to a 1 at idle later on thru my drive? Thought once set it would hold somewhere around there.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I’m not sure what you mean by 10* at flywheel and 15* at idle. The only time the timing should change from idle is around 2300 rpm when the advance kicks in.
Your setting is at the lowest setting of the IAC window. Try setting it 7-8What would make the iac go from 4 at idle to a 1 at idle later on thru my drive? Thought once set it would hold somewhere around there.
Yes this.I think he means on the Sniper display in the cab it shows 15*.
I’ll adjust the idle to 750. Why cap the vacuum? For no advance? Will setting timing to 11* increase the idle? Not sure exactly what the reasoning. I do think a high idle though will help a bit.I’m not sure what you mean by 10* at flywheel and 15* at idle. The only time the timing should change from idle is around 2300 rpm when the advance kicks in.
I would try to mess with that a bit. Bump idle to 750 and then cap the vacuum and set the timing at 11* once the vehicle has stabilized at your new idle.
I’m pretty happy with this on mine
When you adjust the timing it will increase the idle until the computer adjusts itself. Some people thinks the IAC does that. It does not.
Adjusting the timing with the vacuum plugged
Off is the most
Accurate way.
You want to adjust idle in setup menu.
Then adjust IAC per Holly instructons on the last page.
Then check timing with vacuum capped off.
The computer with these proper inputs will get you to 750 rpm
Thanks guys. I’ll make the adjusts and see how it goes. My timing is at 10* because I’m running pertronix that po put on instead of points. I think that was the timing suggested. Anyhow I’ll play with it a bit more and see how she does.When you set base timing you cap the vacuum to ensure an accurate reading with no advance / retard.
As far as I know, the FSM recommendation for ignition timing for all 2F (1F??) engines is 7 deg before TDC. Timing mark (the small ball) should be under the pointer when using a timing light on #1 cylinder with distributor vacuum disconnected and at engine running at recommended idle speed.
However, @wngrog advice is solid as a bit more advance seems to work well with the Sniper setup. But Setting base timing is a critical step in making sure your Sniper performs well.
And as already mentioned, and can't be stressed enough, ignore the timing info on the sniper display. It threw me off for a while when I first started using the system.
As far as I know, the FSM recommendation for ignition timing for all 2F (1F??) engines is 7 deg before TDC. Timing mark (the small ball) should be under the pointer when using a timing light on #1 cylinder with distributor vacuum disconnected and at engine running at recommended idle speed.
However, @wngrog advice is solid as a bit more advance seems to work well with the Sniper setup. But Setting base timing is a critical step in making sure your Sniper performs well.
The F, F.5, and 2F are the kings of low-end torque. Stock gears in low range with a clutch pedal, up a hill, no problem. That said, why 750? The 650 rpm FSM spec. seems fast enough already?
Before I got a good tach, I earballed the 2F at less than 575 rpm, it didn't seem to complain.
Not having a Sniper installed, and pardon my lack of familiarity, can it effectively run the 2F at siginficantly lower than idle rpms, under load, with no throttle depressed? To me, I would want it to hold an idle slower than the Aisan's and its active dependence on manifold vacuum. But I get the sense that the Sniper's performance, or instructions, are engineered around the bootleg industry instead of tackling terrain in 4-low.
I was going to say the same thing. Efi is not a new invention in the off road industry nor with fj40s. Many have run old gm tbi on these cars with better results than carbs depending on terrain, altitude, incline. Seeing I have an fzj80 for the rough stuff, the fj40 will be my mild offroad vehicle and daily use, so efi seems like a good match for what I’ll be doing.While this doesn't necessarily matter much for 2Fs, I was talking to an experienced hot rod shop that uses quite a bit of Holley product (I've found that performance shops in general seem to be fans), and he said that modern GM LS computers can deviate as much as 25% from the factory fuel programming, while the Holley systems can deviate 200%. This was the Holley system designed to run an LS, but the Sniper uses the same wide-band O2 and computing system.
I imagine earlier GM TBIs and Toyota EFI systems were much less than the 25% deviation.
Crawling under load at idle should be no issue with the Sniper. If geared low, it should be downright badass.
More cruising. Used a gps speedo because mine is off a a tad
Adjusted the idle to 700. I still have a few issues. Still wants to stall every now and again when rolling to a stop. Also the iac was running perfect (4) at idle all throughout my ride until the end when it went to 1 and stayed there. I still get a tps of 1 which is a sticking throttle I think. I’ll go in and redo timing and recalibrate efi to what you talked about. Otherwise it’s pretty some cruising and throttle much more responsive than the carb.You make any adjustments? 73 at 3000 rpm. Sweet.