Holley Sniper 2 barrel conversion (3 Viewers)

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I found you can get any magnetic pick up dizzy to be controlled by the ecu.
But a couple things need to be done.
First you need to lock the advance. Second you need an adjustable rotor. If your dizzy can do that, your sniper brain can control it.
Hei dizzys are out there, and are capable of the above...

I was aware of the need to lock out the advance, but I guess I missed the adjustable rotor part.

Can you please expand of this detail? Is there a MSD part number for this adjustable rotor. I assume it adjust the phase.

Thanks
ernie
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I read in a thread ( not on MUDD) that this is another method to observe rotor phasing with respect the the #1 termirminal. Basically is transparent and you could see from the side the dynamic alignment.

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With respect to a rotor that can be phased for a GM based HEI, I have found none. MSD makes on for unique MSD distributors.

Please feel free to chime in on any findings.

Thanks
Ernie
 
With respect to a rotor that can be phased for a GM based HEI, I have found none. MSD makes on for unique MSD distributors.

Please feel free to chime in on any findings.

Thanks
Ernie

Is this the part you're looking for to phase a GM HEI rotor?
I started making up a parts list for Sniper timing control and this was on it. ..never followed through on the conversion though.
Amazon product ASIN B01N7W8XJB
 
Got it up and running but my idle is at about 1600 rpm. Before I hit the troubleshoot wondering if anyone else had this occur. Also, what are you guys setting idle and displacement numbers at? I set to idle at 650 and displacement at 258. Everything seems to work otherwise.
 
Got it up and running but my idle is at about 1600 rpm. Before I hit the troubleshoot wondering if anyone else had this occur. Also, what are you guys setting idle and displacement numbers at? I set to idle at 650 and displacement at 258. Everything seems to work otherwise.
Have you adjusted the idle speed screw on the side of the TBI, near the throttle linkage? You need to adjust that to where the IAC is open between 2 and 10 percent, as shown on the handheld display. (you'll need to readjust over time as the system learns and you change settings)
edit: there is also a setting in the software that changes idle speed (using the IAC) depending on engine temp. So make sure you're at your normal running temp before you make your final adjustment. No harm in changing it as it warms up though.
 
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Got it up and running but my idle is at about 1600 rpm. Before I hit the troubleshoot wondering if anyone else had this occur. Also, what are you guys setting idle and displacement numbers at? I set to idle at 650 and displacement at 258. Everything seems to work otherwise.

That not a mechanical screw to adjust throttle.

you set the target idle in the ECU screen then do the IAC as they tell you in the manual.

plug advances. Set timing. I say 10* a good target.
If the idle does not come down you have a vacuum leak.
 
And ignore all the timing info the LCD screen is giving you. It's rubbish...

(unless of coarse you are using an appropriate dizzy with timing control from the ECU) :)
 
Well efi seems to be working well wondering about noise. It seems a little loud ticking. Is this related to fuel pressure or something else? Anyone running inline gauge or can you get reading through ecu?
 
Well efi seems to be working well wondering about noise. It seems a little loud ticking. Is this related to fuel pressure or something else? Anyone running inline gauge or can you get reading through ecu?
The loud ticking is the fuel injectors and normal. The sound does radiate up through the aircleaner hold down stud, so you might have some luck adding rubber washers to the lid or something. I'm running a pressure gauge and it is helpful. I can round up the part numbers if it helps. No fuel pressure feature available through the ECU.
 
And ignore all the timing info the LCD screen is giving you. It's rubbish...

(unless of coarse you are using an appropriate dizzy with timing control from the ECU) :)

Yup! It took me awhile to figure that out. I would think it could, and should be taken care of by the software writers. If you select “No” for timing control in the setup wizard, then that timing info should not appear at all or at least read “0” or “N/A”. Or at least state what you just stated in the instructions.
It sure would have been helpful knowing that at the start. I wasted time trying to adjust my timing with that displayed info and when it didn’t respond properly it had me thinking I had dizzy problems like weights hanging up or something.
Good info for the newbie.
 
The loud ticking is the fuel injectors and normal. The sound does radiate up through the aircleaner hold down stud, so you might have some luck adding rubber washers to the lid or something. I'm running a pressure gauge and it is helpful. I can round up the part numbers if it helps. No fuel pressure feature available through the ECU.
Thanks for the info. I’ve got a pressure gauge coming that I’ll plumb in just for piece of mind. Can’t wait to get up and running!
 
With respect to a rotor that can be phased for a GM based HEI, I have found none. MSD makes on for unique MSD distributors.

Please feel free to chime in on any findings.

Thanks
Ernie

Have you had a look at "THIS" YouTube video? The guy explains it pretty well. He uses the part that Brian listed above. It replaces the Vacuum advance mechanism. He made his own mechanical advance lockout bar, but according to the description & reviews at Summit Racing, the MSD 88363 you listed should work with an HEI/DUI.

I agree with wngrog avove. There's quite a bit involved having the Sniper control your timing. I thought I'd do but abandoned the idea once I saw what was involved. Getting the Sniper set up without it was enough for me. I only wheel in flat south Florida so altitude changes don't occur. I doubt I'll ever mess with the timing control. If you're determined to do it, you can always do later after you've gotten well familiar with Sniper and it's software.
 

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