- Thread starter
- #121
High steer, slee vs hellfire, Hydro assist. (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Wermz
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #122
trail gear still offer the 1.5x8 kit.
Somehow i didnt find that.. thanks haha
These are what we used on the farm for our equipment. They are easier to install and remove to experiment. Then you can hose clamp them in place since you'll be out in the rocks and brush.
Hydraulic Cylinder Stops
yep. I've been agreeing with you the whole time, just adding a little more information based on my experiences any making a little fun of myself there.
I talked to him a few weeks back, helping him get back on the road after a bent 105 sector shaft. He can tell that story if he wants
I don't run hydro assist on my 80, but I have on 6-7 of the other toyota crawlers I have built over the years and have put hydro assist on many friends/customers rigs. I know the 80 pump flow, pressure, its limitations and where the shortcoming are in the 80 system. If I did put hydro assist on my 80, it would not be comparable to these since the tie rod is in front and the steering arms are about 2" shorter than the 80 rear tie rod setup. Different ram speed and different leverage, I would need a 6.75" stroke ram and closer to a 1.75" ram to equal the speed an force of your setup.
I have twisted sector shaft splines with hydro assist and been on runs 2x when others toy sector shafts have snapped. That was running 40's, but on a cut up 4runner that weighed about half as much as an 80. All on mini truck boxes, but those have the same shaft diameter and spline count at the snappy part as the stock 80 sector shaft.
All I am saying is -
stock steering =not great.
+ 105 shaft + good cooler = stronger against breakage, same steering "power"
+ hydro assist + good cooler = stronger against breakage and increased steering "power"
+ hydro assist + good cooler + 105 shaft = strongest, increased power and more betterer
All of those assume you have a better than stock tie rod and drag link.
For slow speed crawling the ram takes a lot of load off of the sector shaft most of the time. If the front tires are bound up and you are cranking the steering wheel just as hard as you would have without hydro assist, the sector shaft is seeing the same load as it would without the ram, though you are Applying way more force at the wheel. The pump is putting out the same pressure as it did before the ram was added and that pressure is pushing on the piston in the box the same as it did before hydro assist. You just dont get into that situation as much with hydro assist, since you have much more force available to move boulders out of the way.
At higher speeds the stress that breaks stuff is much much more sudden and jarring. Especially if you run a front panhard with rubber bushings that deflect on big hits, your sector shaft is taking a huge hit each time since the drag link is solid and the panhard bushings deflect while you have a death grip on the steering wheel. That is where I worry more about breaking a sector shaft, since the consequences are much worse.
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yep. I've been agreeing with you the whole time, just adding a little more information based on my experiences any making a little fun of myself there.
I talked to him a few weeks back, helping him get back on the road after a bent 105 sector shaft. He can tell that story if he wants
I don't run hydro assist on my 80, but I have on 6-7 of the other toyota crawlers I have built over the years and have put hydro assist on many friends/customers rigs. I know the 80 pump flow, pressure, its limitations and where the shortcoming are in the 80 system. If I did put hydro assist on my 80, it would not be comparable to these since the tie rod is in front and the steering arms are about 2" shorter than the 80 rear tie rod setup. Different ram speed and different leverage, I would need a 6.75" stroke ram and closer to a 1.75" ram to equal the speed an force of your setup.
I have twisted sector shaft splines with hydro assist and been on runs 2x when others toy sector shafts have snapped. That was running 40's, but on a cut up 4runner that weighed about half as much as an 80. All on mini truck boxes, but those have the same shaft diameter and spline count at the snappy part as the stock 80 sector shaft.
All I am saying is -
stock steering =not great.
+ 105 shaft + good cooler = stronger against breakage, same steering "power"
+ hydro assist + good cooler = stronger against breakage and increased steering "power"
+ hydro assist + good cooler + 105 shaft = strongest, increased power and more betterer
All of those assume you have a better than stock tie rod and drag link.
For slow speed crawling the ram takes a lot of load off of the sector shaft most of the time. If the front tires are bound up and you are cranking the wheel just as hard as you would have without hydro assist, the sector shaft is seeing the same load as it would without the ram, though you are Applying way more force at the wheel. The pump is putting out the same pressure as it did before the ram was added and that pressure is pushing on the piston in the box the same as it did before hydro assist. You just dont get into that situation as much with hydro assist, since you have much more force available to move boulders out of the way.
At higher speeds the stress that breaks stuff is much much more sudden and jarring. Especially if you run a front panhard with rubber bushings that deflect on big hits, your sector shaft is taking a huge hit each time since the drag link is solid and the panhard bushings deflect while you have a death grip on the steering wheel. That is where I worry more about breaking a sector shaft, since the consequences are much worse.
Hi jack over
- Thread starter
- #127
Still a 1.5” bore and 8” stroke ?FWIW my TG ram puked its guts so I replaced it with a PSC ram. Fitment was identical.
Yup
- Thread starter
- #129
Today i measured my steering travel lock to lock. I have approximately 7.25” of total travel.. Unlike a stock steering arrangement, my steering is on the front of my axle. My tierod is mounted closer to the trunnion bearings on the steering arms, which makes for a shorter total sweep than a stock behind the axle tierod.. I clamped a square to my truss, marked a start point, had the wife steer it to both ends and marked them, then measured the length of the outer marks, that simple..
Just thought I would ad my 2cents worth on the Hellfire knuckle install.
3 link front, OME front shocks.
Running 1.5" DOM tube steering with LC TRE'S
Slee 6" coils,
Stock panhard bar mount removed off the axle, frame mount kept for steering box support but sectioned as seen in pics.
I had to come in on the back side of the axle since, my 3 link upper tower is in the way of a straight shot to stock PH mount.
Installed new under frame mount next to the left front coil. The frame was plated with 1/4" plate inside the coil bracket on the ouside of the frame to support the strong back on the PH bracket.
I had to come in under my 3rd upper link mount on the pass side of the axle to get this done.
PH bar is about 4.5" shorter than stock, but on the same plane as the drag.
Just drove it today for the first time since alignment and finished adjustments on the road!!
With out a steering dampener installed this thing drives great, no bump steer, no issues.
Off road will come soon.
3 link front, OME front shocks.
Running 1.5" DOM tube steering with LC TRE'S
Slee 6" coils,
Stock panhard bar mount removed off the axle, frame mount kept for steering box support but sectioned as seen in pics.
I had to come in on the back side of the axle since, my 3 link upper tower is in the way of a straight shot to stock PH mount.
Installed new under frame mount next to the left front coil. The frame was plated with 1/4" plate inside the coil bracket on the ouside of the frame to support the strong back on the PH bracket.
I had to come in under my 3rd upper link mount on the pass side of the axle to get this done.
PH bar is about 4.5" shorter than stock, but on the same plane as the drag.
Just drove it today for the first time since alignment and finished adjustments on the road!!
With out a steering dampener installed this thing drives great, no bump steer, no issues.
Off road will come soon.
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Why did you mount your lower links so high on the axle? looks like you had room on your brackets to get another couple of inches of link separation.
When I set the 3 link up I was looking to keep the links as flat as possible and leave room for the stock tie rod on the back side of the axle.
It just worked better this way at that time.
- Thread starter
- #133
Looking at steering boxes to buy to drill, tap, and install 105 sector into. Rockauto has a Lares(15906) for $375 and a BBB(N5110111) for $453.
Ive never heard of either brand, anyone have input on those brands? Theyre “new” boxes, no core charge.
My plan is to build the box without having the truck immobile..
Also, i ordered PSC SC2200k-hk, ram kit with fittings and hoses 1.5”bore 8”stroke.
I also have a huge transcooler with a e-fan for a ps-cooler, a large capacity(23oz) reservoir and AN fittings needed to make it work.
Ive never heard of either brand, anyone have input on those brands? Theyre “new” boxes, no core charge.
My plan is to build the box without having the truck immobile..
Also, i ordered PSC SC2200k-hk, ram kit with fittings and hoses 1.5”bore 8”stroke.
I also have a huge transcooler with a e-fan for a ps-cooler, a large capacity(23oz) reservoir and AN fittings needed to make it work.
Got a pic of your future PS cooler?
- Thread starter
- #135
Tomorrow
For anyone interested, I've been running a Hayden 677 or 678 mounted to the front of the factory Trans cooler for years.
- Thread starter
- #140
It is a generic amazon reservoir. In what way does it suck balls? Im open to input, but either reservoir, this one or stock, is a tank for fluid, supply line, return ect.. im not opposed to using the stock res, but increasing fluid capacity cant hurt..
One thing i notice about this amazon tank is there is no type of screen inside, not to mention it looks a lot cheaper in person than online, as always..
