High-Output Alternator Options for 80 Series Land Cruisers (1 Viewer)

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@jaymar thanks for starting this tread. I now know more about HO alternators than I knew before. Lots of good info brought to my attention from everyone who posted up.

After all the reading I’m still left with one big simpleton question that I didn’t see clearly answered; if I plug in a HO alternator what specific
OEM wiring needs to be upgraded to handle the increased output?

The story is that I’m looking at an OEM alternator for an 80 that has been re-maned and rewound by Motor City Reman To produce numbers in the low 200’s. Seems uncomfortable to bolt it on, plug in the connectors and things will be okay?
 
@jaymar thanks for starting this tread. I now know more about HO alternators than I knew before. Lots of good info brought to my attention from everyone who posted up.

After all the reading I’m still left with one big simpleton question that I didn’t see clearly answered; if I plug in a HO alternator what specific
OEM wiring needs to be upgraded to handle the increased output?

The story is that I’m looking at an OEM alternator for an 80 that has been re-maned and rewound by Motor City Reman To produce numbers in the low 200’s. Seems uncomfortable to bolt it on, plug in the connectors and things will be okay?
for me I have upgraded to 0 gauge wires
body ground to battery
engine ground to battery
positive battery to alternator B+ post

my alternator didnt have the standard 3 pin round connector so i spliced in a pigtail
napa part number# Part #: UNI EC2469

FR wire connector not used

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1693965335470.png
 
Okay maybe over my head but I’ll learn to understand it!

If I have an OEM alternator that has been rewound for higher output. I can plug it in with the OEM connector. But then what happens to my wiring and circuitry when the system is charged?
 
Okay maybe over my head but I’ll learn to understand it!

If I have an OEM alternator that has been rewound for higher output. I can plug it in with the OEM connector. But then what happens to my wiring and circuitry when the system is charged?
The "B" terminal in the image above is where you would increase the size of your cabling. You don't have to, but it is a good idea, especially if you are going to be making use of all the extra amps. For example, winching or recharging your batter from dead after getting jump started.

You can find some charts that explain the gauge/current/volts/length relationship.

There is also the portion of your fusible link which will likely need to have an increased capacity.
 
for my application, I wanted a simple way to add a fuse in a low-profile design so I went with Blue Sea MFBF terminals and a 300A fuse

More info here http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/reference/20010.pdf

choose fuse by wire length and Gauge and expected amperage needed

***Hint blue sea pretty expensive you can order from mouser.com under the Eaton brand and save some $$$$


1694029789348.png
 
for my application, I wanted a simple way to add a fuse in a low-profile design so I went with Blue Sea MFBF terminals and a 300A fuse

More info here http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/reference/20010.pdf

choose fuse by wire length and Gauge and expected amperage needed

***Hint blue sea pretty expensive you can order from mouser.com under the Eaton brand and save some $$$$


View attachment 3421747

I use the same fuses. Paired with these battery terminals, they are awesome. I use the stud to attach the MRBF fuse blocks.

UMAP-K-RP-02.jpg
 
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I use the same fuses. Paired with these battery terminals, the are awesome. I use the stud to attach the MRBF fuse blocks.

View attachment 3421764
thats a cool terminal never seen one like that how is the stud isolated from the terminal without the mfbf fuse? you have more pictures?

i dont see any stud isolation so if were to put a fuse on that empty stud the fuse would have no protection but if using in conjunction with the mrbf fuse holder it would work great
 
thats a cool terminal never seen one like that how is the stud isolated from the terminal without the mfbf fuse? you have more pictures?

i dont see any stud isolation so if were to put a fuse on that empty stud the fuse would have no protection but if using in conjunction with the mrbf fuse holder it would work great
The stud is not isolated. I meant attaching the item below to the stud to expand the number of fused outputs. The battery post is also removable, so you can have 2 studs on the terminal.

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The stud is not isolated. I meant attaching the item below to the stud to expand the number of fused outputs. The battery post is also removable, so you can have 2 studs on the terminal.

View attachment 3421803
ok thanks for clarification that is a great terminal.
i was actually thinking of changing my terminal to a car audio terminal but the one you posted is great

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The stud is not isolated. I meant attaching the item below to the stud to expand the number of fused outputs. The battery post is also removable, so you can have 2 studs on the terminal.

View attachment 3421803
I used the blue sea marine terminals as well for my duel batter / wire upgrade project.

I haven't made the 2nd altinator wire yet but this made sense to me, I liked the idea of the 2nd alternator wire being fused.

Very happy with how clean it came out.



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Screenshot_20230908-151556~2.png
 
@jaymar thanks for starting this tread. I now know more about HO alternators than I knew before. Lots of good info brought to my attention from everyone who posted up.

After all the reading I’m still left with one big simpleton question that I didn’t see clearly answered; if I plug in a HO alternator what specific
OEM wiring needs to be upgraded to handle the increased output?

The story is that I’m looking at an OEM alternator for an 80 that has been re-maned and rewound by Motor City Reman To produce numbers in the low 200’s. Seems uncomfortable to bolt it on, plug in the connectors and things will be okay?
Thanks. Just saw this now. Google Big 3 and Big 4 alternator upgrade for the basics, and look at what pricey rigs have to cover all the angles. Don't forget the grounds. Not quite there yet myself; still gathering parts...
 
Thanks. Just saw this now. Google Big 3 and Big 4 alternator upgrade for the basics, and look at what pricey rigs have to cover all the angles. Don't forget the grounds. Not quite there yet myself; still gathering parts...
I think the extra wire in the big 4 wire upgrade is a waste just clean your bracket between your alternator to bracket to engine block.

if you are worried you think you need it do a voltage drop test.
 
I have a 280 amp alternator sitting on the shelf looking for a home. Too much power for my current build. It needs a home. PM me if interested.

I have a 280 amp alternator sitting on the shelf looking for a home. Too much power for my current build. It needs a home. PM me if interested.
I PM'd you about this to get some additional imformation about it.
 
I PM'd you about this to get some additional imformation about it.
An alt is an alt. It works as an alt does.
Boils down to sensitive load/demand.
What'chyu running that needs it?
 
I have this alternator in my HDJ81 hands down the best alternator for Toyota they have other models too

 
I have this alternator in my HDJ81 hands down the best alternator for Toyota they have other models too

Agree. I was told that they make alternators for DC Power as well. I have a DC Power alternator on my Tacoma that is on its 13th or 14th year of use.
 

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