GX460 P2714 P0761 Ultimate Summary and Hope For A Fix Thread (5 Viewers)

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Just found this forum after having the dreaded P2714 and P0761 codes. I purchased the vehicle with 104k miles and am currently at 190k. I’ve encountered these codes for a couple years now. I think they started around 140-150k. The main issue I have is not shifting out of first until the vehicle warms to at least the forth bar on the engine temp gauge. It seems worse when cold but I typically warm it for a few minutes now before driving. I’ve noticed a shutter/hesitation around 20-25 mph at times. The other big issue is using cruise, while driving 65-80mph, control when encountering a hill. It will downshift and slip causing the vehicle to redline, then a hard thump and take off again. I’ve just started avoiding using cruise control in areas of hills. The vehicle was in Texas before I got it, and spent 4 years in Texas with me. I’ve pulled a dual axle U-Haul trailer with it once about 1000 miles. I’ve hauled 600-1000 pounds of corn probably 6-10 times. I pulled a Honda side by side for about a year probably 6-8 times before I sold it. The vehicle now resides in Colorado now. I’ve only gotten the codes 2 times since I’ve been here. Both time I pulled the battery loose and did a reset. I don’t seem to have the other shifting issue, from 3-4 like other people.

I drained and exchanged the fluid around 30k miles ago. I remember the fluid being dark and some particulate matter in it but I didn’t feel it was anything outstanding. Then a month or so later dropped the pan, changed the filter, and refilled with new fluid again. I am looking to drop the pan and replace the SLT, the S1 solenoid, speed sensor, and the wiring harness.
 
Just found this forum after having the dreaded P2714 and P0761 codes. I purchased the vehicle with 104k miles and am currently at 190k. I’ve encountered these codes for a couple years now. I think they started around 140-150k. The main issue I have is not shifting out of first until the vehicle warms to at least the forth bar on the engine temp gauge. It seems worse when cold but I typically warm it for a few minutes now before driving. I’ve noticed a shutter/hesitation around 20-25 mph at times. The other big issue is using cruise, while driving 65-80mph, control when encountering a hill. It will downshift and slip causing the vehicle to redline, then a hard thump and take off again. I’ve just started avoiding using cruise control in areas of hills. The vehicle was in Texas before I got it, and spent 4 years in Texas with me. I’ve pulled a dual axle U-Haul trailer with it once about 1000 miles. I’ve hauled 600-1000 pounds of corn probably 6-10 times. I pulled a Honda side by side for about a year probably 6-8 times before I sold it. The vehicle now resides in Colorado now. I’ve only gotten the codes 2 times since I’ve been here. Both time I pulled the battery loose and did a reset. I don’t seem to have the other shifting issue, from 3-4 like other people.

I drained and exchanged the fluid around 30k miles ago. I remember the fluid being dark and some particulate matter in it but I didn’t feel it was anything outstanding. Then a month or so later dropped the pan, changed the filter, and refilled with new fluid again. I am looking to drop the pan and replace the SLT, the S1 solenoid, speed sensor, and the wiring harness.
A suggestion, and what I do when using cruise control on a hill, I'll drop down a gear, or two, depending on how steep and long the hill is.
So far (quick, find me some wood to knock on!) I have not had any transmission issues, either codes or shifting issues. But I also have an OBDII BlueTooth dongle and an app for my phone that helps me monitor trans temps in real time as I'm driving.
 
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The P2714 showed up again, I replaced with the OE valve body.

I definitely noticed that the gear shifting became much smoother and there was no longer any sense of kick.

 
I believe we already know the issue Read Diagnosing Solenoid Performance Faults in A761, AB60 & A960 6-Speed Transmissions - https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/345-diagnosing-solenoid-performance-faults-in-a761-ab60-a960-6-speed-transmissions

Based on the Sonnax documentation we know that valve body wear is the Crux of the issue. What causes valve body wear? Dirty, abrasive fluid.

Do your trans maintenance. At 48k my trans had lots of debris in my drain pan from a easy drain and fill. Id recommend dropping the pan to clean the magnets. I've also installed a Magnefine filter and cooler (see my other posts) to protect my trans.
I think you are incorrect. Many people have already try replacing solenoids and valve bodies to no avail.
As I mentioned before, I think its related to friction and the clutches. I don't have proof but after reading through this whole thread before, no one has tried replacing just the clutches.
Only a rebuilt transmission (new clutches, new solenoids, new valve body) has resolved the codes and issues.
 
I think you are incorrect. Many people have already try replacing solenoids and valve bodies to no avail.
As I mentioned before, I think its related to friction and the clutches. I don't have proof but after reading through this whole thread before, no one has tried replacing just the clutches.
Only a rebuilt transmission (new clutches, new solenoids, new valve body) has resolved the codes and issues.
My guess as well, it is the break down of the friction material on the clutches and bands. Which basically boils down to a rebuild to resolve. They use an organic friction material so nothing will show up on the magnets in the bottom of the sump.
 
I think you are incorrect. Many people have already try replacing solenoids and valve bodies to no avail.
As I mentioned before, I think its related to friction and the clutches. I don't have proof but after reading through this whole thread before, no one has tried replacing just the clutches.
Only a rebuilt transmission (new clutches, new solenoids, new valve body) has resolved the codes and issues.
Let's back up so the solenoid's open fluid passages to engage clutches. Hydraulic Pressure Actuates Clutches. If the pressure isn't high enough because the supply solenoid is leaking (per Sonnax) then you can accumulate clutch damage.


You can also look up P/Ns and find that the running gear/clutches isn't much different than GX470 trans which doesn't have these issues. the biggest change is the valve body.
 
Let's back up so the solenoid's open fluid passages to engage clutches. Hydraulic Pressure Actuates Clutches. If the pressure isn't high enough because the supply solenoid is leaking (per Sonnax) then you can accumulate clutch damage.


You can also look up P/Ns and find that the running gear/clutches isn't much different than GX470 trans which doesn't have these issues. the biggest change is the valve body.
For looking up part numbers, try using the FSM. It can be found here: GX 460 Manuals
Second post in the thread.
 
Let's back up so the solenoid's open fluid passages to engage clutches. Hydraulic Pressure Actuates Clutches. If the pressure isn't high enough because the supply solenoid is leaking (per Sonnax) then you can accumulate clutch damage.


You can also look up P/Ns and find that the running gear/clutches isn't much different than GX470 trans which doesn't have these issues. the biggest change is the valve body.

The valve body is for the "new" 6th gear in the A760, there is another and to me a larger difference between them.

The GX470 A750 tranny in addition to the integrated trans cooler in the radiator has an external transmission cooler. All 470's. The GX460 does not, at least most of them. More heat.

The A760 in the Tundra had an external trans cooler until 2020 (I believe). Many with Tundra's and the A760 have added an external cooler on newer models for that reason.
 
I think you are incorrect. Many people have already try replacing solenoids and valve bodies to no avail.
As I mentioned before, I think its related to friction and the clutches. I don't have proof but after reading through this whole thread before, no one has tried replacing just the clutches.
Only a rebuilt transmission (new clutches, new solenoids, new valve body) has resolved the codes and issues.
I remember reading this post and then saw people replaced valve bodies with no luck. I see you responded saying this bore plug leak causes excessive clutch pack wear which makes sense yes. I guess I'm unsure what to do here. Here is what I'm thinking at the moment:

Since I'm not experiencing any form of slipping or shifting issues otherwise, my clutch packs must at least in decent shape? At any RPM/throttle there isn't any slippage in any gear. If this is the case. Fixing the bore plug leak should most likely resolve my solenoid code issues due to low hydraulic pressure? I know this is mostly just a gamble at this point but what do you recommend I do? Give this a shot or just replace/rebuild the transmission assembly?
 
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So far I replaced Solenoid D, worked ok for a few days then back to doing the same. I dont want to spend $4500 on a transmission for it to do it again in a year or two. If anyone finds a solution please share.
 
So far I replaced Solenoid D, worked ok for a few days then back to doing the same. I dont want to spend $4500 on a transmission for it to do it again in a year or two. If anyone finds a solution please share.

Pretty sure no one anywhere has found a solution at least long term, anywhere, except for a replacement.

However if you replace the tranny and add a $50 Hayden 678 or 698 cooler you shouldn't have the issue again and no need to worry about it. And do a simple drain and fill of the ATF ~40-50K. Seeing how you are in South Texas I would also pin the thermostat on the transmission warmer open.

That makes 2 more from Texas so the updated numbers:

In this thread there are 20 different vehicles listed with locations as follows.
Texas x7
Florida x4
Arizona x2
California x2 (one is an A760E instead of A760F in an IS 350, same symptoms and codes)
South Carolina
Louisiana
Alabama
Tennessee
Mississippi

Heat. Although I am sure someone will come along again and say no it is caused by Mars being aligned with Uranus during a full moon.... :cautious:
 
Pretty sure no one anywhere has found a solution at least long term, anywhere, except for a replacement.

However if you replace the tranny and add a $50 Hayden 678 or 698 cooler you shouldn't have the issue again and no need to worry about it. And do a simple drain and fill of the ATF ~40-50K. Seeing how you are in South Texas I would also pin the thermostat on the transmission warmer open.

That makes 2 more from Texas so the updated numbers:

In this thread there are 20 different vehicles listed with locations as follows.
Texas x7
Florida x4
Arizona x2
California x2 (one is an A760E instead of A760F in an IS 350, same symptoms and codes)
South Carolina
Louisiana
Alabama
Tennessee
Mississippi

Heat. Although I am sure someone will come along again and say no it is caused by Mars being aligned with Uranus during a full moon.... :cautious:

I did a lot of towing, there was a time on the boat ramp where the GX was angled up with the front end high for a while and after I got back in from landing my boat on the trailer I put it in gear and I heard a ton of grinding and had no movement. I turned the GX off and back on and it pulled right out and I never heard the grinding again. Im thinking Im going to try a used tranny with a warranty and throw the Hayden on there and roll the dice. Otherwise i will be looking at $4 to $5 thousand on a car worth $8 to $10 thousand. It has a solid motor with 190K miles so worst case scenario I pull the motor and keep it for when my 100 series motor bites the dust.


I guess I should add, DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY LEADS ON A USED 04 TRANNY? :)
 
So Update on mine is codes returned a month after my service. Now that we are in colder months and mornings, The codes will pop like clockwork. I have determined that sweet spot for Trans fluid temp is 120 degrees. I drive in the morning in "3rd Gear" under S mode until I hit this temp and then it proceed to 6th. Works like a champ. No slipping, no grinding, drives perfectly. If I forget or try D or any other gear before 120 degrees I get the code and may not be able to shift higher than 3rd gear until I pull over and restart the truck or clear the codes.
At this point, I don't have the budget for a new trans. And I hate to dump this problem on someone else. We have had the truck for 10 years and love it. But definitely disappointed.
 
My wife's 2011 GX460 threw codes p2714 and p0761 about 1 month ago with 165,000 miles on the clock. We bought the car about 3 years ago with 123,000 miles and I flushed the transmission with 12 quarts of Valvoline Max Life at around 135,000 miles. The fluid that came out looked normal compared to other Toyota transmissions I've serviced with WS and Type IV fluids.
Since there were zero transmission symptoms, I cleared the codes, which stayed off for about 1,000 miles but came back one morning when the trans wouldn't shift through all of the gears - the same issue everyone here seems to have. The car has been parked ever since.
Before I found this thread, I pulled the pan to check for metal and to see if the trans was worth fixing. Everything looked great with hardly any shavings on the magnet, but the newish synthetic fluid I used did look a little darker and browner than I would have expected, which would indicate some kind of slipping in my opinion.
I've decided to roll the dice and ordered the Sonnax Zip Kit in the hopes that we caught the problem early enough to avoid damage to the clutches and/or torque converter. It's only about $200 from Rock Auto.
I thought about doing the oversized high pressure regulator from Sonnax at the same time as that kit is only about $140, but the reamer needed to ream the bore is an additional $500.
So, I'll give this a try, and if it doesn't work will bite the bullet and swap the trans with a Lexus reman for $3,500.
We're from Northern NJ, btw. The original owner was from Staten Island, NY, 2nd owner was in Harrisburg, PA. No hitch on this car, or any other indications it ever worked too hard.
One question - Has anyone noticed a cut-off in model years where it looks like the problem may have been solved? If so, I would consider a salvaged transmission from a newer model year with less miles.
 
I'm also curious if there are any 2017 and newer with these issues. I know there are high mileage later trucks out there. I wonder if there are any part number changes to the clutches on later trucks?
 
CL owner with 2017 & AT Failure
 
We're from Northern NJ, btw. The original owner was from Staten Island, NY, 2nd owner was in Harrisburg, PA. No hitch on this car, or any other indications it ever worked too hard.
One question - Has anyone noticed a cut-off in model years where it looks like the problem may have been solved? If so, I would consider a salvaged transmission from a newer model year with less miles.
A long time in stop and go traffic can cook a transmission too. I'm pretty sure the highest temps I've ever seen in mine was coming back from Maine after Thanksgiving and being stuck in traffic from basically Boston to NYC. Somewhere in Connecticut I started manual shifting which got things back to normal. (95 is my personal hell)

Heat is the enemy and the reason the transmission on the 460s is becoming a bit of an Achille's Heel is the lack of external cooling combined with the "lifetime" fluid claim from all the dealers. So you might have a GX with like 90,000 miles that has been absolutely babied by the first owner, except most of those miles were spent stuck in traffic on 95 and they've been driving with cooked transmission fluid for the last 2 years.
 
A long time in stop and go traffic can cook a transmission too. I'm pretty sure the highest temps I've ever seen in mine was coming back from Maine after Thanksgiving and being stuck in traffic from basically Boston to NYC. Somewhere in Connecticut I started manual shifting which got things back to normal. (95 is my personal hell)

Heat is the enemy and the reason the transmission on the 460s is becoming a bit of an Achille's Heel is the lack of external cooling combined with the "lifetime" fluid claim from all the dealers. So you might have a GX with like 90,000 miles that has been absolutely babied by the first owner, except most of those miles were spent stuck in traffic on 95 and they've been driving with cooked transmission fluid for the last 2 years.
In stop-n-go, I'll sometimes shift into 1st gear. This is usually just fast enough to keep from having to gas and brake all the time if I give myself a bit of room from the guy in front of me. Never had a temp issue.
 

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