GX460 P2714 P0761 Ultimate Summary and Hope For A Fix Thread

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I priced one out of a wrecked GX for $1600 with a 90 day warranty. Since I swapped silinoid D, it's been shifting good but I still have to let it warm up I the morning for about 10 minutes for it not to take a while to go into 1st. I'm going to do a drain and refill on my days off and try adding some lube guard. If it doesn't help I'll drive it until it doesn't drive anymore.
 
This is probably a dumb question, but has anyone who has experienced the codes issue had one of those OTT tune jobs after experiencing the codes? I was thinking of having one done, as I have read good reviews on performance improvements from this service, but not if it could further jeopardize my transmission.

Also, as a data point, since I returned to Louisiana from Virginia in December 2024, I have been driving the GX exclusively in sport mode. I have about 1,600 miles on it since my return, and the codes have not returned (knock on wood).
 
This is probably a dumb question, but has anyone who has experienced the codes issue had one of those OTT tune jobs after experiencing the codes? I was thinking of having one done, as I have read good reviews on performance improvements from this service, but not if it could further jeopardize my transmission.

I have an OTT tune. It definitely changes shift points. It might make shifts a bit quicker but if it does it's not enough that I notice it. Quicker shifts would mean less clutch slipping which means less clutch particles in the oil which might help long term. Other than that I don't see how it would affect the valve body either way.

I had them do the least throttle mapping change option. It's still a little abrupt in the first bit of travel for me but it's not as bad as the pedal commander. I prefer a progressive throttle action and feeling for traction vs blasting through.

The throttle mapping and transmission programming changes do wake it up noticeably but there's not actually significantly more power. Which is what their dyno charts show. It's hard for a tune to get much additional power out of a modern non turbo/supercharged engine.
 
FYI for everyone interested, I am ordering a reman valve body off of Ebay having it as well as a installing a transmission cooler installed in mid July. Hoping this does the trick as well and will keep y'all updated. If this seems like a mistake/waste of time let me know!
Did replacing the vale body resolve the issue? I have been looking to purchase a Nomad Heavy Duty Valve Body (Nomad Heavy Duty Valve Body to suit Toyota LandCruiser 200 Series 6 Speed - https://automatictransmission.com.au/shop/nomad-heavy-duty-valve-body-to-suit-toyota-landcruiser-200-series-6-speed/ ) but I don't want to pull the trigger if this won't resolve the issue.
 
I replaced the valve body and two solenoids and now almost two months later everything is working fine.

 
I think changing out the valve body is what I'm going to do. Seems fairly simple, but does anyone have any guides or resources for the replacement. I tried searching online but couldnt find any solid info.
 
I replaced the valve body and two solenoids and now almost two months later everything is working fine.

@yeLwWm - Is it still going strong? Just saw on FacePage another person did fluids, Sonnax kit, Solenoids and Valve and they have been trouble free.

Perhaps this is the recipe to do after a diagnostic, fluids and def before a full replace.
 
@StriderWolf Thanks for asking.

1. After changed Valve body(Toyota) and S3/SLT solenoids(Toyota), the code P2714 and P0761 still showed up. But shifting totally fine.
2. I replaced the rest of solenoids by myself, 7 out of 9. Using Rostra instead of OEM, cost $500 for 7 solenoids. With all new solenoids and valve body, can clearly feel that the transmission has improved, and the gear shifting is very smooth. Code P2714 appeared only once, but it was the only code I cleared myself.

My conclusion is that all the solenoids(Rostra) and VB(OEM) should be replaced simultaneously.

Using Rostra, all nine solenoids can be replaced for around $700, far less than the OEM price. The VB is purchased from Toyota for around $1000. Doing it myself would cost about $1800-$2000 in parts, and you'd have brand new VB and solenoids. If the transmission still has problems, a rebuild is the only option.

Troubleshooting solenoids and VB is difficult; it's hard to tell which is worn. Even if you replace some parts, others might be nearing failure. I spent a lot of time troubleshooting, replacing parts and fluid multiple times, and having to disassemble the oil pan. Now it seems like it wasn't worth it. I should have done it all in one go.
 
I just bought a 2012 GX460 with 180k. Loved it for a day then got the p2714. Drives normally and shifts fine. Trying to avoid full transmission replacement. CARFAX shows ATF flush at 172k. Looking at changing solenoid and hoping that fixes it but debating throwing in new VB while I’m under there. Curious to see what those more experienced with this problem think.
 
I just bought a 2012 GX460 with 180k. Loved it for a day then got the p2714. Drives normally and shifts fine. Trying to avoid full transmission replacement. CARFAX shows ATF flush at 172k. Looking at changing solenoid and hoping that fixes it but debating throwing in new VB while I’m under there. Curious to see what those more experienced with this problem think.
If you can drop the trans oil pan in your garage/drive way, my recommendation is that:

Stage 1: Replace all solenoids with Rostra.
Stage 2: If the issue still there, buy a new VB.

Replace solenoids is a easy DIY project, but VB is much harder and heavier, at least need someone to help you under the car but still doable in garage.

I buy Rostra solenoids from RockAuto which I can trust. A Plus Transmission Specialists(South Austin, TX), also help me a lot they gave me a free diagnose report.
 
If you can drop the trans oil pan in your garage/drive way, my recommendation is that:

Stage 1: Replace all solenoids with Rostra.
Stage 2: If the issue still there, buy a new VB.

Replace solenoids is a easy DIY project, but VB is much harder and heavier, at least need someone to help you under the car but still doable in garage.

I buy Rostra solenoids from RockAuto which I can trust. A Plus Transmission Specialists(South Austin, TX), also help me a lot they gave me a free diagnose

If you can drop the trans oil pan in your garage/drive way, my recommendation is that:

Stage 1: Replace all solenoids with Rostra.
Stage 2: If the issue still there, buy a new VB.

Replace solenoids is a easy DIY project, but VB is much harder and heavier, at least need someone to help you under the car but still doable in garage.

I buy Rostra solenoids from RockAuto which I can trust. A Plus Transmission Specialists(South Austin, TX), also help me a lot they gave me a free diagnose report.
Do you think I should replace all 9 solenoids? If I remember correctly it’s the A-D and S1,S2, S3, SL1, and SR
 
Do you think I should replace all 9 solenoids? If I remember correctly it’s the A-D and S1,S2, S3, SL1, and SR
From other users and recent, likely good to replace all vs. continue to chase codes/issues. Just sent for a quote on all solenoids, valve body and Sonnax Kit ourselves.
 
Quick update on my posts from this spring.
10,000 miles on the sonnax valve body rebuild and check valve seat repair and no codes or problems. I think the jury is still out until the cold weather hits but things are looking good so far.
Thanks @MGeorge! Helpful for us all here and good to hear what happens as it cools off.

I am still waiting on a quote from a local transmission shop. They did read through this thread and mentioned the kit, valve and solenoids made sense.

Thanks!
 
Randomly pulled codes today on the GX460. It wasn't showing a CEL or anything, but just ran the code reader. Ever since the solenoids were replaced it shows the ‘permanent’ P2714 code. Today it showed that permanent code and a P2714 code you could delete. Again…no CEL and it has been driving fine since the solenoid replacement in April. No idea. Keep driving.
 
Quick update on my posts from this spring.
10,000 miles on the sonnax valve body rebuild and check valve seat repair and no codes or problems. I think the jury is still out until the cold weather hits but things are looking good so far.

Update:
As the fall weather sets in and temperatures drop, the dreaded P2714 has returned — right on schedule. Pretty depressing.

This morning, after a cold start, I headed out and hit a small incline. The transmission refused to shift into 4th (maybe 5th) gear. After restarting the engine, it shifted normally again — but now I’ve got the full Christmas tree on the dash.

What’s been done so far:
  • Replaced all solenoids
  • Installed a brand new valve body
Currently suspecting:
It might be related to TCM adaptation / learning or cold oil pressure behavior.
 
Update:
As the fall weather sets in and temperatures drop, the dreaded P2714 has returned — right on schedule. Pretty depressing.

This morning, after a cold start, I headed out and hit a small incline. The transmission refused to shift into 4th (maybe 5th) gear. After restarting the engine, it shifted normally again — but now I’ve got the full Christmas tree on the dash.

What’s been done so far:
  • Replaced all solenoids
  • Installed a brand new valve body
Currently suspecting:
It might be related to TCM adaptation / learning or cold oil pressure behavior.
I am so sorry! Ugh! I swear, these years and this issues makes it frustrating as everything operates normal once the ATF is up to temp.
 
I just picked up my remanufactured tranny from the dealership. I was lucky enough to encounter a 20% off deal from the dealership so after the core, price is $2800.
I'll be replacing the transmission in my garage. Any tips for those who have done it themselves would be appreciated. I do have the Lexus TechDocs so I'll reference that.
Just an FYI/reminder, mine is a 2011 GX460, with 118k miles now. My current transmission does get the 4lo blinking lights when the weather cools down here in southern AZ. The symptoms I get is reverse doesnt engage until the engine/tranny has warmed up. Also have noticed some slight slipping during throttle kickdown/downshift recently.
When looking at the repair manual, it says that a delay in reverse can mean the following:
Repair Manual_R-shift-delay causes (pg1274).webp

If I have time, I may dissect the old transmission to find what the worn components are.

Also, is the prevention for this issue (atleast the consensus) to 1) Add an external transmission cooler (I have one from Hayden ready to install with new tranny) and 2) Replace transmission fluid every 30k miles (I have 3 gallons of Valvoline Maxlife ATF ready)?

20251023_190025.webp
 
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