They have the same issue as well. Found this thread through a Google search so I figured it was on the GX page, didn't know it was exclusive for the 460. Either way, beware of the 470 tranny as well
GX460 P2714 P0761 Ultimate Summary and Hope For A Fix Thread (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter StriderWolf
- Start date
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I pulled the valve body to start installing the Sonnax zip kit and saw this worn check valve seat:
The worn spot is in the shim (for lack of a better word) between the upper and lower valve body. I’m going to look into replacing this part as well.
Quick update:
I spent a couple of hours yesterday disassembling the valve body and taking pictures, and another 2-3 hours today slowly swapping the parts from the Sonnax Zip Kit. The job isn’t too bad provided you take your time, follow the instructions, and keep everything clean and lubricated.
I did have a hard time installing the o-ringed end plugs. The bores are tapered at the end, but have a rough finish making it very difficult to push the o-rings by no matter how well lubed.
I ended up using a small pistol grip clamp to push them in which did shave a small amount of material from some of the o-rings.
I didn’t notice much wear, with the bores looking perfect (maybe explains the difficulty fitting the o-ringed end plugs) and some wear in the form of polished areas on some of the components.
I’m not sure if the zip kit will improve things much, but maybe it will have a cumulative effect.
As for the worn check valve seat in the spacer plate - I haven’t been able to find a replacement online , but will give the dealer a call tomorrow. In the meantime, I found replacement drop in valve seats designed for GM transmissions. You simply drill the hole out, drop the new seat in, and secure with a c-clip. It may be necessary to drill a relief into the valve body. This kit is made by Fitzall and is $16 on Amazon.
I’m also waiting on the 3 seals between the transmission case and valve body, part no. 35145-60020, $34.50 shipped from Lexus.
Besides sockets, the only tools needed so far are: Harbor Freight picks, clamp, pliers, and paper towels.
I spent a couple of hours yesterday disassembling the valve body and taking pictures, and another 2-3 hours today slowly swapping the parts from the Sonnax Zip Kit. The job isn’t too bad provided you take your time, follow the instructions, and keep everything clean and lubricated.
I did have a hard time installing the o-ringed end plugs. The bores are tapered at the end, but have a rough finish making it very difficult to push the o-rings by no matter how well lubed.
I ended up using a small pistol grip clamp to push them in which did shave a small amount of material from some of the o-rings.
I didn’t notice much wear, with the bores looking perfect (maybe explains the difficulty fitting the o-ringed end plugs) and some wear in the form of polished areas on some of the components.
I’m not sure if the zip kit will improve things much, but maybe it will have a cumulative effect.
As for the worn check valve seat in the spacer plate - I haven’t been able to find a replacement online , but will give the dealer a call tomorrow. In the meantime, I found replacement drop in valve seats designed for GM transmissions. You simply drill the hole out, drop the new seat in, and secure with a c-clip. It may be necessary to drill a relief into the valve body. This kit is made by Fitzall and is $16 on Amazon.
I’m also waiting on the 3 seals between the transmission case and valve body, part no. 35145-60020, $34.50 shipped from Lexus.
Besides sockets, the only tools needed so far are: Harbor Freight picks, clamp, pliers, and paper towels.
I forgot to mention, make sure you note the location of the check balls. The Sonnex diagram had 2 check balls in a different location than what I had.
When you split the valve body, keep the spacer plate against the upper halves until you flip them over. This will keep the check balls in place, giving you a chance to snap a picture. If you just pull the halves apart without holding the plate in place, the check balls will fall out.
When you split the valve body, keep the spacer plate against the upper halves until you flip them over. This will keep the check balls in place, giving you a chance to snap a picture. If you just pull the halves apart without holding the plate in place, the check balls will fall out.
FYI, the Fitzall replacement valve seats arrived but are too small. I also called Lexus to find a replacement spacer plate, but they don’t sell them - they will only sell a complete valve body or the external parts (solenoids, etc. ).
I’m weighing my options, here. Do I reassemble knowing there is one problem spot, or try to get creative and tig weld some material back on and lap the seat?
I’m weighing my options, here. Do I reassemble knowing there is one problem spot, or try to get creative and tig weld some material back on and lap the seat?
Might be worth a call to Sonnax about what you are looking for
A call might not be a bad idea, but their website doesn’t list the spacer plate or any type of replacement valve seat, while they do make those types of parts for other transmissions.
I ended up tig welding the edge of the hole and having it machined back to round. Total cost $0, but would have probably been about $200 if I had been charged for the work.
After the hole was machined, I took some lapping compound and a ball bearing to get the seat just right.
I ended up tig welding the edge of the hole and having it machined back to round. Total cost $0, but would have probably been about $200 if I had been charged for the work.
After the hole was machined, I took some lapping compound and a ball bearing to get the seat just right.
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
Family member has 2011 GX with 140k. Getting the same P code. Lexus and an independent both said they needed to replace the transmission. The symptoms are that it doesn’t have as much pep when driving/accelerating. Just started recently. Never had a fluid change.
I think they are going to just sell it as-is due to driving long distances for work.
Has anyone with that symptom of not having enough ‘ummph’ when accelerating had a complete failure?? Wondering if the paddle shifting could get it through a few more years.
I think they are going to just sell it as-is due to driving long distances for work.
Has anyone with that symptom of not having enough ‘ummph’ when accelerating had a complete failure?? Wondering if the paddle shifting could get it through a few more years.
Consensus is that manual shifting until the trans is warm gets you 30k-40k miles before other symptoms start showing up.
There is some question as to whether repairing/replacing the valve body as soon as these codes appear will fix the problem. I’m going that route as I took my GX off the road the first time it wouldn’t shift properly (2nd time having the CEL).
If the valve body repair doesn’t work for my transmission, I would venture to say the root cause lies elsewhere.
I hope to have my car back on the road Monday or Tuesday depending on when the last parts arrive.
There is some question as to whether repairing/replacing the valve body as soon as these codes appear will fix the problem. I’m going that route as I took my GX off the road the first time it wouldn’t shift properly (2nd time having the CEL).
If the valve body repair doesn’t work for my transmission, I would venture to say the root cause lies elsewhere.
I hope to have my car back on the road Monday or Tuesday depending on when the last parts arrive.
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
Thanks for the tips. I’ve read through this thread and this GX has the same codes. The family member sold it to me pretty cheap considering Lexus and an independent shop said it needed a transmission. However, I drove it home 6 hours today with the CEL and 4 Lo blinking. It drove fine. I couldn’t feel any shutters or hesitations…granted I’ve never driven a 460. I think I did feel what he mentioned as not having the ‘umph’…but I didn’t lose speed or anything. I got home and ran the codes…same codes. I cleared them and put it in 4wd lo to make sure it would engage and all good there.
I guess I’ll start out with doing a drain/fill and see what the fluid looks like.
Which valve body did you order? How intense is swapping that out?
So, I had the dreaded P2714 code come up. My son is currently driving my 2011 GX460 with 160K miles on it in Atlanta and was looking forward to getting it back to California this Summer. Before he had left for college a four years ago, I added an additional transmission cooler and thought we were good to go. Last month the code cam on even though there was nothing wrong with the shifting. We took it to a transmission place and had the solenoid replaced added a sonnex kit and did a complete fluid replacement. This lasted a month and now reverse is completely shot. I am looking at replacing the the transmission in the next few weeks. The transmission guy says the reverse is completely worn. I wonder if adding the larger tires puts too much stress on the transmission.
Will update on how the transmission replacement goes. This is really frustrating after just having fixed a coolant valley leak and the timing cover leak. Thought it would be good for a while.
Will update on how the transmission replacement goes. This is really frustrating after just having fixed a coolant valley leak and the timing cover leak. Thought it would be good for a while.
So there is a national backorder on remanufactured transmissions from Lexus. UGH
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
Has anyone successfully just replaced the solenoids and not had any future issues? A semi-local mechanic said he has done that with success, with the same two codes…and flushed the system.
My other question would be what should I do IF I replace the transmission to avoid this from happening again so quickly.
My other question would be what should I do IF I replace the transmission to avoid this from happening again so quickly.
I’ve had a chance to get my valve body installed and have driven the GX for a few days now, including some chilly mornings in the low 40’s. Everything is working as it should for now, but it was several thousand miles between the last two events with this transmission.
Fingers are crossed hoping the issue was in the valve body and I addressed it before it caused any damage to the transmission.
I’ll keep everyone posted if the trouble returns.
Below are some of the worn components swapped with the Sonnax kit:
When I was about to install the valve body, I found a part in the housing almost identical to the large part pictured above with the same wear. I didn’t have that part on hand so I just rotated it 90 degrees and stuck it back in.
Fingers are crossed hoping the issue was in the valve body and I addressed it before it caused any damage to the transmission.
I’ll keep everyone posted if the trouble returns.
Below are some of the worn components swapped with the Sonnax kit:
Found a remanufactured transmission...$7k later we will see how it goes...very disappointed that the transmission went out...especially for a supposedly rugged vehicle.
Agreed. VERY un-Toyotaish
Whats the average price on a transmission replacement? reman from lexus is like $4k? How much is labor? Thanks!
r2m
Richard
That's really dependent upon where you live. Not just the state, but where in the state.
What one pays for shop labor in Beverly Hills will be quite different from what one pays in a small city in the mid west.
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There is a book time accociated with the job, so in theory most shops should quote similar time it will come down to the bill rate an hour as mentioned
