GX460 P2714 P0761 Ultimate Summary and Hope For A Fix Thread (4 Viewers)

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Lexus GX460 P2714 P0761 Collection of Info

Hey crew! I know many of us have been affected by this issue with some replacing their transmission at around 80-180k for $7-8k.

On all forums and groups this appears to be a mystery with pockets of info here and there. I’d like to collect all the info and hope others who properly fixed it WITHOUT buying a new transmission can let us know what the real issues is as normal Toyota dealers and Indy shops usually recommend replacing the solenoids and eventually the whole transmission for $7-8k.

Below is a summary of everything I have read over the past 6 months on this. Huge props to Castle CZ and Daniel Silver on the Facebook GX460 Repair group who both found a fix for $500-1500 to a FREE workaround by manual shifting.

Hope this helps folks out in our situation and eventually solves this thing!

Please post IF you have learned something new OR what the true fix was.

Cheers!

ISSUES
-First/Cold starts car will not shift from 3-4, throws codes P2714 and P0761 - Stuck Solenoids, check engine, VSC and 4LO come on. Happens in the first 5-15 minutes. Must pull over and erase codes.

TEMP FIXES
-Disconnect negative battery cable to reset codes once they flash, drives fine rest of day
-Buy a scan tool, pull over, erase codes, turn off, turn on and drives fine the rest of the day
-Tape up the dashboard and only drive 30 mph everyday

BETTER LONG TERM OPTION
-First/Cold starts - place car in manual shift in gear 1. Up shift around 2200-2600 rpms for the first 15 minutes. Then place in automatic for rest of the day. No codes or issues!
-This works! Beats pulling over everyday to reset codes and saves $8000
-This also appears to prove there is an issue with one or multiple sensors we can’t fully figure out yet

INITIALLY STEPS TO ADDRESS CODES
-Drain and fill transmission fluid
-Clean MAF and throttle body
-Unattached all electrical connectors related, clean and snugly connect back
-Replaced both speed sensors on the transmission part 894130C011
-Replace Solenoids
-Pray
-Take to a real good transmission shop to diagnose to properly fix and address
-Worst case = Manual shift the vehicle for the first 15 everyday OR spend $8000 on a new transmission

ULTIMATE FIX?
-SOME have fixed it with fluid, solenoids, MAF cleaning, throttle bottle cleaning and the Transmission Sensors replace. Others did all this and still have issues with codes and shifting :(
-I’ll be attempting all of the above except Solenoids to see how it goes, but manual shifting is saving me $8000 currently!


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Great info! As someone who just purchase an 85k mile GX, and was starting to sweat a little bit about these potential transmission issues, its good to see there is a potential workaround. I will likely complete the items above combined with install of a trans cooler to hopefully prevent any issues down the road.
 
Great info! As someone who just purchase an 85k mile GX, and was starting to sweat a little bit about these potential transmission issues, it’s good to see there is a potential workaround. I will likely complete the items above combined with install of a trans cooler to hopefully prevent any issues down the road.
Hope those (Outside of solenoid replacement) and a continued drain and fill keep ya good!
 
My GX460 shifts slowly first thing in the am, if its colder than 50. I have remote start which is a God Send.
I start and 3-5 min later walk to car and it is perfect. Never has thrown any codes. But I know they are coming.

170k on car 2011. No records if tran fluid was ever changed. (probably not). Waiting hoping that this will be the solution.

? Factory overhauled Transmissions are now available "supposedly" for around 3,500. Is the install really that expensive?
 
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Want to thank you very much for giving this info. Have been dealing with this since September of 23' on a 2012 with 135K miles. The sport mode first 15 minutes is a lifesaver, and really not a big deal if you get used to it.

I had $1200 of solenoid work done which was a waste of money, but if I don't have to replace the whole transmission, I'll take it.

Lastly, I have a local guy in the Jackson MS area that has an old valve body that he can install into my transmission and will put a shift kit on too for under $500, but may not even fool with it if this continues to work.

Has this been a long-term fix for y'all? Can I expect to use Sport mode for cold starts for the foreseeable future?
 
Want to thank you very much for giving this info. Have been dealing with this since September of 23' on a 2012 with 135K miles. The sport mode first 15 minutes is a lifesaver, and really not a big deal if you get used to it.

I had $1200 of solenoid work done which was a waste of money, but if I don't have to replace the whole transmission, I'll take it.

Lastly, I have a local guy in the Jackson MS area that has an old valve body that he can install into my transmission and will put a shift kit on too for under $500, but may not even fool with it if this continues to work.

Has this been a long-term fix for y'all? Can I expect to use Sport mode for cold starts for the foreseeable future?
Glad this was helpful! We were at a lost after buying our 2011 gc with 105k miles and having these codes when it was colder. Hard to really find the issue and I can’t say we’ve found one post or mechanic that has figured it out. Too bad.

Yes, the sport mode the first 15 minutes has been working! In spring we are going to take it to a transmission shop to further diagnose BUT we think the only option is the solenoids, valve body and speed sensors and after $2k of work it’s a 50/50 shot kind of like what you said. So if they can’t really figure it out, we may just forgo that and have a sport mode GX until the tranny quotes.

We came from two 4th gen 4Runners, so it’s super disappointing. Wife wanted the GX for more space, drive feel and some perks. So far we have experienced the silly Gx460 passenger lean and the $8k trans issue that no one can figure out. Other than that, a superb car, but super disappointing on the transmission as the 4Runners were incredible for 15 years.

All the best and posts updates!!!
 
Thanks for posting this summary. Over the last month I’ve been reading every thread I could find about the 2 tranny codes which I got for the first time about 5 weeks ago on my 2011 with 141k miles (purchased used at 106k with dealership maintenance history so safe to assume on original fluid).

I’ve been clearing the codes and they come back about once a week on first start and drive of the day when they happen. One thing I noted is the first time I got the codes was a few days after I rotated the tires (slightly upsized 275 Ridge Grapplers) and the tires had been on the truck about 11k miles so are noticeably different diameters front to rear, probably about 3/8” diameter different. It seemed like too big a coincidence to ignore for being a possible trigger. I was thinking maybe that has something to do with triggering some algorithm in the ECU.

Which led me to another thought. I see a lot of the codes happening on trucks older than 2014. Perhaps there was an upgrade or change to the transmission programming sometime over the production. So far the only fix has been a new transmission. Rebuilds haven’t helped.

But part of installing a new transmission is resetting transmission adaptations and I assume at a dealership that also is accompanied with a flash to whatever the latest software version is. Perhaps that’s the actual fix? Is there a way in techstream for a user to reset adaptations?

I saw the sensor transmission output sensor replacement fixed the issue in the tundras. I replaced both input and output sensors on mine a week ago and the codes came back in 5 days. The sensors that came out looked like new and had zero metal particles attached to the magnets. The fluid is not red and has clutch particles in it but certainly not anything that would clog the solenoids in my opinion.

For now I’m doing the “sport mode” first start of the day trick. It’s working for me for the last few days. Truck has also never had the codes yet on a warm start.

If I could go back to when I bought the truck at 100k I would have changed the fluid. But now I’ve read a few post from people who changed it at my mileage for the first time and then the transmission totally dumped after so I’m hesitant.

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Thanks for posting this summary. Over the last month I’ve been reading every thread I could find about the 2 tranny codes which I got for the first time about 5 weeks ago on my 2011 with 141k miles (purchased used at 106k with dealership maintenance history so safe to assume on original fluid).

I’ve been clearing the codes and they come back about once a week on first start and drive of the day when they happen. One thing I noted is the first time I got the codes was a few days after I rotated the tires (slightly upsized 275 Ridge Grapplers) and the tires had been on the truck about 11k miles so are noticeably different diameters front to rear, probably about 3/8” diameter different. It seemed like too big a coincidence to ignore for being a possible trigger. I was thinking maybe that has something to do with triggering some algorithm in the ECU.

Which led me to another thought. I see a lot of the codes happening on trucks older than 2014. Perhaps there was an upgrade or change to the transmission programming sometime over the production. So far the only fix has been a new transmission. Rebuilds haven’t helped.

But part of installing a new transmission is resetting transmission adaptations and I assume at a dealership that also is accompanied with a flash to whatever the latest software version is. Perhaps that’s the actual fix? Is there a way in techstream for a user to reset adaptations?

I saw the sensor transmission output sensor replacement fixed the issue in the tundras. I replaced both input and output sensors on mine a week ago and the codes came back in 5 days. The sensors that came out looked like new and had zero metal particles attached to the magnets. The fluid is not red and has clutch particles in it but certainly not anything that would clog the solenoids in my opinion.

For now I’m doing the “sport mode” first start of the day trick. It’s working for me for the last few days. Truck has also never had the codes yet on a warm start.

If I could go back to when I bought the truck at 100k I would have changed the fluid. But now I’ve read a few post from people who changed it at my mileage for the first time and then the transmission totally dumped after so I’m hesitant.

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Thanks for adding to this thread your experience, ideas and journey. I hope all of these collective ideas and experiments help us figure it out vs. a full swap.

The speed sensor was one another user did with solenoids and cleaning the throttle bottle. It worked for him but others do one or the other or both and nada. 🤷

I agree that it has to be something else, sensor, electronic or software as once the code is cleared first thing in the morning, it’s great the rest of the day. We had techs test ours and they were totally fine, then had the fluid level checked and it was in good condition and at the right level. Ended up exchanging it 4 weeks later to simply cancel it out as we already had the codes.

Sport mode since and we are doing fine!

Whoever figures this out deserves something!!!
 
this looks like how its done:

I have not done it myself and that video might be wrong. But the text in techstream about running the reset when the solenoids are replaced sure sounds correct.

It might be safer to have a mechanic do it.
 
One thing I noted is the first time I got the codes was a few days after I rotated the tires (slightly upsized 275 Ridge Grapplers) and the tires had been on the truck about 11k miles so are noticeably different diameters front to rear, probably about 3/8” diameter different. It seemed like too big a coincidence to ignore for being a possible trigger. I was thinking maybe that has something to do with triggering some algorithm in the ECU.
Just to be clear, are you saying that your tire sizes are about 0.375" difference in size front to rear?
If so you may be winding up your drive train.
We have an all-wheel-drive system which means all the wheels will have traction while driving.
I wound up the drive train on an all-wheel-drive Toyota Previa minivan we had back in the mid 1990's when I had after market wheels and tires I had to use a spare that wasn't the same size (diameter) as the tires already on it. It was a $3,500 repair, but we were still under warranty so Toyota picked up the bill.

All tires should be as close to same diameter as possible.
 
this looks like how its done:

I have not done it myself and that video might be wrong. But the text in techstream about running the reset when the solenoids are replaced sure sounds correct.

It might be safer to have a mechanic do it.

Thank you!!!
 
Just to be clear, are you saying that your tire sizes are about 0.375" difference in size front to rear?
If so you may be winding up your drive train.
We have an all-wheel-drive system which means all the wheels will have traction while driving.
I wound up the drive train on an all-wheel-drive Toyota Previa minivan we had back in the mid 1990's when I had after market wheels and tires I had to use a spare that wasn't the same size (diameter) as the tires already on it. It was a $3,500 repair, but we were still under warranty so Toyota picked up the bill.

All tires should be as close to same diameter as possible.
Yes I would say that’s about right. I’m running the Nitto Ridge Grapplers in 275 size and after install didn’t rotate them for about 11k miles. Where I work when you exit the parking lot onto a 6 lane street there’s no left turn so you rapidly accelerate for 1/8 mile to cut across 3 lanes and then make a U turn to go left, which is the way I always leave. So making that quick U turn like 3-4 times a day really chews up the front right tire. It’s probably got 1/8-1/4” less tread depth than the other tires now.

Before I rotated tires I never got the transmission codes but within a few days after that tire rotation they started. It’s a data point that seemed notable to me.

Maybe I’ll skip rotating again for 11k and see if the codes go away when the tires even out again 🤣
 
It appears to more or less related to higher mileage with no maintenance than model years. I can’t recall anyone claiming 60k mile fluid maintenance intervals since new with one of these failure. I’ve seen up to ‘17 so far IIRC.


Which led me to another thought. I see a lot of the codes happening on trucks older than 2014. Perhaps there was an upgrade or change to the transmission programming sometime over the production. So far the only fix has been a new transmission. Rebuilds haven’t helped.
 
@StriderWolf You said you changed the fluid at higher miles and still got the codes afterwards?

So presumably if following oem maintenance (lifetime sealed transmission 😣) and you are already getting codes it is likely too late for simply fresh fluid to be a fix?
 
@StriderWolf You said you changed the fluid at higher miles and still got the codes afterwards?

So presumably if following oem maintenance (lifetime sealed transmission 😣) and you are already getting codes it is likely too late for simply fresh fluid to be a fix?
Yeah, we bought used a 2011 gx460 with 105k from TX. Was fine for 2 months, started getting codes once a week, went away in the warm summer and fall came back and winter daily.

Was going to start with drain and refills anyhow every 30k and ran into all these issues. Looks like previous owner had serviced the fluid at some point as techs said it was at the right level and good fluid.

So unsure why or how? Don’t know if it was Mnt of the fluids that was missed for 80k OR software, electrical, etc. Hence this thread as many are having the issue.
 
It appears to more or less related to higher mileage with no maintenance than model years. I can’t recall anyone claiming 60k mile fluid maintenance intervals since new with one of these failure. I’ve seen up to ‘17 so far IIRC.
Failure rate is too low to attribute root causes yet. There are literally tens of thousands of early 460's on the road with likely NO tranny maintenance and still doing fine.
 
Do you have anything to read the codes? Do you know if they are actually about the fluids?
 
Wow I finally came across a useful thread of exactly what’s going on with our 2011 gx460 137k. Exact same codes. Disconnect the battery resets the codes when painfully pulling over with a car full of kids to turn it off to reset the codes don’t work lol We have brought it to 3 different shops and 3 quotes for new transmissions. I try explaining it is some type of electric issue. Once the 4lo light starts then the “transmission high rpm’s”. The only thing different is I’m located Florida and haven’t dealt with cold starts. We are grateful for this thread and will start trying the manual shift trick tomorrow!!
 

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