Builds GW Nugget's Family Haulin Lx450 build (2 Viewers)
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No offense, good research, but sheesh man. I slapped on some J&L's years ago and just went wheeling. Didn't think twice about and love it.
- Thread starter
- #242
Yeah, your completely on the mark.
I'm really sick of this, I'm done.
850J/863 or 861/862 plus 30mm spacers would work better.
The front 850J or 861+30mm would be snug as a bug in my front end.
I just wanted to stay lower than a J spring.
I'm really sick of this, I'm done.
850J/863 or 861/862 plus 30mm spacers would work better.
The front 850J or 861+30mm would be snug as a bug in my front end.
I just wanted to stay lower than a J spring.
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- Thread starter
- #243
Like I've wrote before this was my build year & I am looking forward to a lot more seat time as far as camping & wheeling. I have put to much thought & energy into this suspension flex business & need to move on with my build other than getting more inches of articulation.
So what I did was just gave up trying to get huge gains in suspension travel, I threw in the towel & put some shorter L shocks on. I'll quote some veterans by saying these 80s are not rock donkeys & use them for expo rigs rather than rocks crawlers.
By putting the front L shocks on it limits the travel to prevent the tie rod hitting the control arms & also allows disconnecting the sway bar. By just putting them on lifted my front almost 1" & also gives me the firm stability that I have been looking for.
I will also play with putting back in the OEM bushings along with narrowing the front control arms to reduce axle bracket bind with the control arms. The new goal is freedom of movement rather than more flex.
This is my current set up as of now:
I currently have the OME Old Man Emu 851/860 medium spring combo with a 25mm/ 1" spring spacer in front for a more level stance.
For shocks Lexi now has the longer OME L shocks front & rear.
To keep the drive line from contacting the sway bar at full drop, there is 1.25" front sway bar spacers.
To keep the rear L shocks & 315 tires at bay there is a 1.25" block spacer at the frame bump stop to keep the rear L shock from over compression with 1" of up travel left for full compression & to keep the 35"/315 tire from rubbing in the fender well.
In front is the stock bump stops, the L shock up there is fine with 1.5" left of shock travel to compress for full bump compression. Also to note I added washers to front Ls to make them .5" longer. They now measure 15.75" to 27" from the 15.25" to 26.5"...
To add length to the brake lines I lowered the stock mounts.
To correct caster & add 2" more drop travel, Lexi has 2" MAF front control arm brackets with the yellow 2° CC bushings. (Soon coming back out for more flexible OEM bushings).
The stock wheels have 1" spacers now with 3.5" of back spacing to prevent rubbing inside rear fender & to give a wider stance for stability.
To allow unrestricted up travel a 1" body lift was added, also to help with airflow over engine compartment & passenger side floorboard cooling.
Lexi does have light armor front & rear with some slider nerf type protection. The spare tire is inside with a modest unfinished storage system.
The transfer case did receive lower gearing from a set of Marlin Crawler reduction gears.
That's about it... Below are some pics.
Below pics have the longer 28.5" front shocks which does drop out the coils & the tie rod contacts control arm. There is a couple ways to fix this... so for now the fix is 27" shocks to stop the above problems.
So what I did was just gave up trying to get huge gains in suspension travel, I threw in the towel & put some shorter L shocks on. I'll quote some veterans by saying these 80s are not rock donkeys & use them for expo rigs rather than rocks crawlers.
By putting the front L shocks on it limits the travel to prevent the tie rod hitting the control arms & also allows disconnecting the sway bar. By just putting them on lifted my front almost 1" & also gives me the firm stability that I have been looking for.
I will also play with putting back in the OEM bushings along with narrowing the front control arms to reduce axle bracket bind with the control arms. The new goal is freedom of movement rather than more flex.
This is my current set up as of now:
I currently have the OME Old Man Emu 851/860 medium spring combo with a 25mm/ 1" spring spacer in front for a more level stance.
For shocks Lexi now has the longer OME L shocks front & rear.
To keep the drive line from contacting the sway bar at full drop, there is 1.25" front sway bar spacers.
To keep the rear L shocks & 315 tires at bay there is a 1.25" block spacer at the frame bump stop to keep the rear L shock from over compression with 1" of up travel left for full compression & to keep the 35"/315 tire from rubbing in the fender well.
In front is the stock bump stops, the L shock up there is fine with 1.5" left of shock travel to compress for full bump compression. Also to note I added washers to front Ls to make them .5" longer. They now measure 15.75" to 27" from the 15.25" to 26.5"...
To add length to the brake lines I lowered the stock mounts.
To correct caster & add 2" more drop travel, Lexi has 2" MAF front control arm brackets with the yellow 2° CC bushings. (Soon coming back out for more flexible OEM bushings).
The stock wheels have 1" spacers now with 3.5" of back spacing to prevent rubbing inside rear fender & to give a wider stance for stability.
To allow unrestricted up travel a 1" body lift was added, also to help with airflow over engine compartment & passenger side floorboard cooling.
Lexi does have light armor front & rear with some slider nerf type protection. The spare tire is inside with a modest unfinished storage system.
The transfer case did receive lower gearing from a set of Marlin Crawler reduction gears.
That's about it... Below are some pics.
Below pics have the longer 28.5" front shocks which does drop out the coils & the tie rod contacts control arm. There is a couple ways to fix this... so for now the fix is 27" shocks to stop the above problems.
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Thanks for all your effort GW. I have kicked around the idea of 1" wheel spacers myself but being a mechanic and not an engineer, I can only speculate as to how much stress wheel spacers add to the axles, bearings, steering arm studs, etc.
- Thread starter
- #245
Posting for my future reference.
I needed a place for the live quick links.
48702 60050 $19
Search for Genuine Parts - Amayama Trading
48061 60010 $21
Search for Genuine Parts - Amayama Trading
48702 60040 $23
48702 60031 $22
Upper control arm bushings
Search for Genuine Parts - Amayama Trading
48720 60011 R $116
48720 60012 L $115
ARM ASSY, LOWER CONTROL
Search for Genuine Parts - Amayama Trading
48710 60020 $75
48710 60021 Track rear Control Arm
Search for Genuine Parts - Amayama Trading
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
37"s & 4:88 gears.
In 3rd
2800rpm 60
3200rpm 70
In OD
60 is 2250
70 is 2500/2600
I needed a place for the live quick links.
48702 60050 $19
Search for Genuine Parts - Amayama Trading
48061 60010 $21
Search for Genuine Parts - Amayama Trading
48702 60040 $23
48702 60031 $22
Upper control arm bushings
Search for Genuine Parts - Amayama Trading
48720 60011 R $116
48720 60012 L $115
ARM ASSY, LOWER CONTROL
Search for Genuine Parts - Amayama Trading
48710 60020 $75
48710 60021 Track rear Control Arm
Search for Genuine Parts - Amayama Trading
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
37"s & 4:88 gears.
In 3rd
2800rpm 60
3200rpm 70
In OD
60 is 2250
70 is 2500/2600
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #246
There has been a bunch of thread post on this leaking oil pump repairs going around lately. @1973Guppie is having probs with his crank bolt also. My guess is the changing to the colder weather this fall.
My oil pump just has been just a seap all summer, but now became an official leak once I saw my 1st drip in the driveway.
@jcardona1 sent me this awesome vid by @Texasknowhow & this is my next job on the list. I'm not looking forward to this...
Got the parts from CDan. Plus a blue modulator.
Well, one down 7 more to go... I used the starter trick like the video.
Praise the Lord!
I got the other 7... can you tell I was worried?
We are home free, it's down hill from here...
I Got it back on torqued screws to 8 in pounds, but had probs getting the main seal out. I finally got it with a J hook looking tool.
Lexi450 is now back to drive way status from getting kicked to the curb. No more leaks.
177,125
My oil pump just has been just a seap all summer, but now became an official leak once I saw my 1st drip in the driveway.
@jcardona1 sent me this awesome vid by @Texasknowhow & this is my next job on the list. I'm not looking forward to this...
Got the parts from CDan. Plus a blue modulator.
Well, one down 7 more to go... I used the starter trick like the video.
Praise the Lord!
I got the other 7... can you tell I was worried?
We are home free, it's down hill from here...
I Got it back on torqued screws to 8 in pounds, but had probs getting the main seal out. I finally got it with a J hook looking tool.
Lexi450 is now back to drive way status from getting kicked to the curb. No more leaks.
177,125
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- Thread starter
- #247
You know it's funny, I'm doing nothing new here, but this is my jurney.
I have been chasing a P0401 check engine code for about a year now. I replaced the all vacuum hose, EGR, VSV & finally the modulator made the light go bye, bye. I did get the blue top unit. SMOKEN!
A while back I finally found time mount a 400 watt converter that I've had for years. I took out the Lexus CD player & sub.
I also relocated my washer bottle getting ready for the dual battery install.
I still need to make a decision on a better air compressor system also. PUMA, ARB or that new AZ unit.
I have been chasing a P0401 check engine code for about a year now. I replaced the all vacuum hose, EGR, VSV & finally the modulator made the light go bye, bye. I did get the blue top unit. SMOKEN!
A while back I finally found time mount a 400 watt converter that I've had for years. I took out the Lexus CD player & sub.
I also relocated my washer bottle getting ready for the dual battery install.
I still need to make a decision on a better air compressor system also. PUMA, ARB or that new AZ unit.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #248
Sunday, January 3, 2016
Intermittent Random Inconsistent Starting
I have been have starting issues for a awhile, it started out as delayed starting then random starting, but it would start eventually. No clicking or chatering, just silence, but a click when releasing the key. Then it became bothersome & had no consistency to be able to trouble shoot. I searched the mud archives for wisdom & knowledge. I found this thread that helped me.
Turn the key, no start...intermittent
It pointed to three items to look at & some people mentioned it could be several worn items at same time which I believe is to be my current problem. The three items are battery having low cold cranking amps, worn starter contacts & posibly a worn ignition switch. I did a quick & dirty sanding job on my old contacts to get me by for now. Thanks goes out to all that have helped & @richardlillard1 that gave me the push I needed to open it up to look at the contacts. I never messed with starters. So I was a bit leary, you know the fear factor of opening up something & then WAMO! A hundred springs come flying out & unknown where they came from kind of fear thing...
Lexi450 has now over 30 successfull starts to date. A new starter rebuild kit with plunger is on the way & I will be testing my ignition system ASAP.
Here is the not so bad contacts & plunger, but evidently bad enough to cause problems.
Here is after very quickly sanding, they cleaned up pretty good.
It's back in & has started up every time since. I went to the nearest auto store & had them run a system check & all systems are good. I will definitely be checking for a worn ignition switch ASAP. Hope this helps.
Intermittent Random Inconsistent Starting
I have been have starting issues for a awhile, it started out as delayed starting then random starting, but it would start eventually. No clicking or chatering, just silence, but a click when releasing the key. Then it became bothersome & had no consistency to be able to trouble shoot. I searched the mud archives for wisdom & knowledge. I found this thread that helped me.
Turn the key, no start...intermittent
It pointed to three items to look at & some people mentioned it could be several worn items at same time which I believe is to be my current problem. The three items are battery having low cold cranking amps, worn starter contacts & posibly a worn ignition switch. I did a quick & dirty sanding job on my old contacts to get me by for now. Thanks goes out to all that have helped & @richardlillard1 that gave me the push I needed to open it up to look at the contacts. I never messed with starters. So I was a bit leary, you know the fear factor of opening up something & then WAMO! A hundred springs come flying out & unknown where they came from kind of fear thing...
Lexi450 has now over 30 successfull starts to date. A new starter rebuild kit with plunger is on the way & I will be testing my ignition system ASAP.
Here is the not so bad contacts & plunger, but evidently bad enough to cause problems.
Here is after very quickly sanding, they cleaned up pretty good.
It's back in & has started up every time since. I went to the nearest auto store & had them run a system check & all systems are good. I will definitely be checking for a worn ignition switch ASAP. Hope this helps.
- Thread starter
- #249
New OME 862 rear dual rate springs
I have been looking for a more versatile spring that will perform the ability to have a plush ride while empty, but have firm stability when loaded down on family trips. The OME 860 coils I had gave a big stinkbug while DDing around town empty then when loaded with only kids, Ice chest & misc. items it would start to squat.
After doing a lot of research I learned of springs that have two spring ratings rather than one, they call them dual rate. It turns out Old Man Emu has two to that will fit the 80 series. The 866 would be way to firm for my needs having a rating of 240/300 lbs. The other is the 862 with a rating of 170/260. 170lb. is the factory spec for the 80 series & 250lb. rate is what OME uses for the heavy 863 spring.
What does this mean?
A 170/260 lb. rating means plush/firm.
Now that I have broke them in a bit loaded & empty, they are just what I wanted. They have helped Lexi450 have even better turning manners. I can feel the plush 170lb. rate while empty, they feel very nice. When I make fast hard turns I can feel them set into the firmer 260lb. rate & it turns like it's on rails. I can't be happer.
To note: these are considered to be stock height replacement springs that gives approximately 1" lift over stock. To achieve a 2" lift I added 30mm to them giving a final center hub to bottom of flare of 22" after minus of 1" for my body lift (Stock is approx. 20").
If only OME would only add one more turn & .5mm thicker wire to the 862 it would increase lift by 1" like they do to the 850 & 850J. They could call it an 862J.... Hmmmm, just having fun.
It's level with 300 to 400 pounds in rear for test run.
I have been looking for a more versatile spring that will perform the ability to have a plush ride while empty, but have firm stability when loaded down on family trips. The OME 860 coils I had gave a big stinkbug while DDing around town empty then when loaded with only kids, Ice chest & misc. items it would start to squat.
After doing a lot of research I learned of springs that have two spring ratings rather than one, they call them dual rate. It turns out Old Man Emu has two to that will fit the 80 series. The 866 would be way to firm for my needs having a rating of 240/300 lbs. The other is the 862 with a rating of 170/260. 170lb. is the factory spec for the 80 series & 250lb. rate is what OME uses for the heavy 863 spring.
What does this mean?
A 170/260 lb. rating means plush/firm.
Now that I have broke them in a bit loaded & empty, they are just what I wanted. They have helped Lexi450 have even better turning manners. I can feel the plush 170lb. rate while empty, they feel very nice. When I make fast hard turns I can feel them set into the firmer 260lb. rate & it turns like it's on rails. I can't be happer.
To note: these are considered to be stock height replacement springs that gives approximately 1" lift over stock. To achieve a 2" lift I added 30mm to them giving a final center hub to bottom of flare of 22" after minus of 1" for my body lift (Stock is approx. 20").
If only OME would only add one more turn & .5mm thicker wire to the 862 it would increase lift by 1" like they do to the 850 & 850J. They could call it an 862J.... Hmmmm, just having fun.
It's level with 300 to 400 pounds in rear for test run.
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Did everything pull out of the center console pretty easily? i would love to do this mod. also where did you wire the converter too?You know it's funny, I'm doing nothing new here, but this is my jurney.
I have been chasing a P0401 check engine code for about a year now. I replaced the all vacuum hose, EGR, VSV & finally the modulator made the light go bye, bye. I did get the blue top unit. SMOKEN!
A while back I finally found time mount a 400 watt converter that I've had for years. I took out the Lexus CD player & sub.
View attachment 1186511
I also relocated my washer bottle getting ready for the dual battery install.
View attachment 1186512
I still need to make a decision on a better air compressor system also. PUMA, ARB or that new AZ unit.
- Thread starter
- #251
It wasn't difficult, about the biggest pain was having to unbolt the passenger seat to get to the last console screw.
taking out the stock CD changer & subwoofer is just a couple screws & those funny Toyota wire clips. As far as the power, I just have a 3 port extension thing for now hidden underneath. Its defiantly not a finished install.
There is a lot of wasted space under there to be used for storage etc... my imagination is the limiting factor.
- Thread starter
- #252
Batt box & Air Compressor
178,000 miles on 2.10.16
Batt box:
I aquire a Fj60 battery box from my good friend @ToyotaDon , it fit perfectly after a bit of a trim just behind the fan shroud.
Thanks Don.
Air comp:
At the time I was researching for the best on board air compressor, there was three that stood out to be the best in my mind. The Puma, ARB twin & the wild card Air Zenith unit. All three where very impressive with destinctive advantages... The Puma is the most economical as a complete unit with 2cfm @40psi w/1.5gal. tank, it just needs wireing, but I just could not get past the fact it would be taking up very needed cargo area. The compact Air Zenith unit is 4.25cfm @30psi & 3.22cfm @40psi. Very impressive numbers for a compact single piston unit. The ARB twin was the most impressive with the highest rating of 4.68cfm @30psi. This was also the most expensive unit. Also I had seen a few threads on mud that several had mounted it behind the rear corner panel out of harms way & did not take any cargo space away.
Just at this time @socallove posted up 8 of the ARB twin units for a very fair price. So good that he sold all 8 within approx. 6 hours of posting. Well I was one of the 8 that got sucked into the feeding frenzy.
At this time I'm in the process of how exactly I'm going to mount it & wire it up. For now I have it set up as a make shift portable unit with a set of cheap jumper cables. It isn't pretty, but will work for now until I can properly get it mounted.
178,000 miles on 2.10.16
Batt box:
I aquire a Fj60 battery box from my good friend @ToyotaDon , it fit perfectly after a bit of a trim just behind the fan shroud.
Thanks Don.
Air comp:
At the time I was researching for the best on board air compressor, there was three that stood out to be the best in my mind. The Puma, ARB twin & the wild card Air Zenith unit. All three where very impressive with destinctive advantages... The Puma is the most economical as a complete unit with 2cfm @40psi w/1.5gal. tank, it just needs wireing, but I just could not get past the fact it would be taking up very needed cargo area. The compact Air Zenith unit is 4.25cfm @30psi & 3.22cfm @40psi. Very impressive numbers for a compact single piston unit. The ARB twin was the most impressive with the highest rating of 4.68cfm @30psi. This was also the most expensive unit. Also I had seen a few threads on mud that several had mounted it behind the rear corner panel out of harms way & did not take any cargo space away.
Just at this time @socallove posted up 8 of the ARB twin units for a very fair price. So good that he sold all 8 within approx. 6 hours of posting. Well I was one of the 8 that got sucked into the feeding frenzy.
At this time I'm in the process of how exactly I'm going to mount it & wire it up. For now I have it set up as a make shift portable unit with a set of cheap jumper cables. It isn't pretty, but will work for now until I can properly get it mounted.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #253
Back on 265s...
ToyotaDon
I am here
Why did I "like" that? 
- Thread starter
- #255
Just aquired these...
- Thread starter
- #256
Thank you @supertrooper for buying my tires & wheels, your are really going to like them. Here they are ready to ship out at Fastenal.
Can't wait to try them on! 37's are going to look killer on your LX. What tires are you going with?
woooo 37's
