- Thread starter
- #41
I would never circumvent my progressive overlord governor. Shame, shame.
Gifted an 80 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter JonChimpo
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Yes, that's the only thing made of copper inside that differential. Going to have to pull the differential to fix it.
- Thread starter
- #43
Thank you. I saw they sell tubing seal kits. Hopefully that will cover it.
The copper tubing used is standard 1/4" OD copper refrigeration tubing that you can buy at your local hardware store.
Make sure you ream the ends with a drill bit after cutting them off so you don't have restrictions. Also make sure to blow out the lines before you do final installation so there are no chips or debris in the lines.
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- #45
You're the man! Thank you. Anywhere I can save some cash on this is awesome!
great tribute to your cousin and testament he knew he picked the right person to carry it forward 
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- #47
Thank you. I appreciate the words, really. The only down side, I’m having to start an Only Fans in order to get this thing sorted.great tribute to your cousin and testament he knew he picked the right person to carry it forward
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- #48
I just watched a video on the ARB locker airline. This is going to be fun. Here’s to learning how to do new stuff (and hopefully right the first time.)
I recommend using a bender to shape the line do you don't crease it when bending. All bends should be as long and sweeping as you have room for.
Take a look on this site for pics of other ARB installations to see the proper routing of the line.
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- #50
Forsure man. I appreciate the tips. I’m new. Right now front lockers are not a priority. But it’s on the list.
I need to get it running good. Then I’ll deal with front lockers. I’ve got quite a list going. I talked with the cruiser outfitters today. I’m not sure if I have a 2.5, or 3.5 lift. I’m right around 24” from center hub to bottom of wheel well. Is that a 3.5” lift?
I’m back tonight for my 5th pressure wash. I bought a smaller wand to get into tight spots. I’m about to degrease, to prep for rust inhibitor tomorrow.
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- #51
these look aftermarket to correct geometry, is that a fair assessment?
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- #53
Sweet! Thank you! Given it has OME set up currently, would it be safe to assume it’s currently on a 3.50 lift?
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- #55
Hell yeah. Thanks man. Currently has a 3.5” lift confirmed.
Show us a picture of how your front lower control arms connect to the frame at the rear of the arms. (Not the axle end)
Because I don't see any caster correction on the from axle other than possibly offset control arm bushings.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
these look aftermarket to correct geometry, is that a fair assessment?
Yeah, as said they help say bars work properly with your lift.
Can't see any caster correction in those pics. Take a pic of where the front radius arm connects to the chassis.
Hard to be sure, but the angle of the radius arm looks like there may be drop boxes to lower the connection point at the chassis and fix steering geometry
If you're right that is 3.5" of lift, if there's no caster correction been done you'll likely have negative caster and funky steering.
Also, I don't think your front driveshaft is a factory part. At least, the uni joints are not
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
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- #59
A
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- #60
I really appreciate all the help. I’ve wrenched on cars but never really got this far in the weeds. Thank you.
