- Thread starter
- #81
Did a little freshening today. My windows had been looking pretty crappy and spotty. A little love with some BF glass polish and my PC/6" yellow pad did wonders.
Builds Gerry's Build thread: "If it happens again I'm buying an Abrams" (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter MongooseGA
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So what was the N GA route last week?
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- #83
Tallulah Gorge to Hiawasee, then to Helen, and Blairesville, then Cleveland, TN and Sequatchie TN.
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- #84
More little things, just documenting.
Browsing some threads, I caught a link for Cloud City's Amazon store selling all kinds of great little parts for our trucks. So, I snagged a set of rear hatch struts for mine. The original ones would hold the hatch up, but wouldn't lift it. Easy install,
. Don't forget to check the bottom of the packaging for the new replacement ball joint bolts.
I'd ordered a scangauge mount from @BenCC a week or two ago. He printed it to order (such a cool technology) and had it in my hot little hand in no time. I used a palm sander to sand it smooth and Krylon flat khaki paint to match the original trim. For install, I removed the overhead console (one bolt behind the sunglass holder and pull straight down- 4 push clips hold it up), the two DS sun visors, the OS handle and the A-pillar trim. I fished a straight coat hanger down the far side of the dash to pick up the cable from the OBD port. This avoids having the cable run between the dash and door and keeps it hidden. Then just run it up the pillar, squeeze it into the headliner, and pull the connector end into the hole where the overhead console goes.
Up next for Gerry are a set of Jason's rear upper control arms. I'll place that order this week hopefully. Also still wanting drawers, will try to get those done over the winter. Still sitting on front diff and steering rack bushings, and will be doing LBJ and LCA bushings soon. After that stuff is all done, she's good for a while besides little things. Still needing to do the trans fluid drain and fill. I've got a gallon or two of new fluid waiting to get pumped in.
Browsing some threads, I caught a link for Cloud City's Amazon store selling all kinds of great little parts for our trucks. So, I snagged a set of rear hatch struts for mine. The original ones would hold the hatch up, but wouldn't lift it. Easy install,
. Don't forget to check the bottom of the packaging for the new replacement ball joint bolts.
I'd ordered a scangauge mount from @BenCC a week or two ago. He printed it to order (such a cool technology) and had it in my hot little hand in no time. I used a palm sander to sand it smooth and Krylon flat khaki paint to match the original trim. For install, I removed the overhead console (one bolt behind the sunglass holder and pull straight down- 4 push clips hold it up), the two DS sun visors, the OS handle and the A-pillar trim. I fished a straight coat hanger down the far side of the dash to pick up the cable from the OBD port. This avoids having the cable run between the dash and door and keeps it hidden. Then just run it up the pillar, squeeze it into the headliner, and pull the connector end into the hole where the overhead console goes.
Up next for Gerry are a set of Jason's rear upper control arms. I'll place that order this week hopefully. Also still wanting drawers, will try to get those done over the winter. Still sitting on front diff and steering rack bushings, and will be doing LBJ and LCA bushings soon. After that stuff is all done, she's good for a while besides little things. Still needing to do the trans fluid drain and fill. I've got a gallon or two of new fluid waiting to get pumped in.
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I need some of those rear struts for mine. How much did they run?More little things, just documenting.
Browsing some threads, I caught a link for Cloud City's Amazon store selling all kinds of great little parts for our trucks. So, I snagged a set of rear hatch struts for mine. The original ones would hold the hatch up, but wouldn't lift it. Easy install,
View attachment 2125016
I'd ordered a scangauge mount from @BenCC a week or two ago. He printed it to order (such a cool technology) and had it in my hot little hand in no time. I used a palm sander to sand it smooth and Krylon flat khaki paint to match the original trim. For install, I removed the overhead console (one bolt behind the sunglass holder and pull straight down- 4 push clips hold it up), the two DS sun visors, the OS handle and the A-pillar trim. I fished a straight coat hanger down the far side of the dash to pick up the cable from the OBD port. This avoids having the cable run between the dash and door and keeps it hidden. Then just run it up the pillar, squeeze it into the headliner, and pull the connector end into the hole where the overhead console goes.
View attachment 2125017
View attachment 2125018
Up next for Gerry are a set of Jason's rear upper control arms. I'll place that order this week hopefully. Also still wanting drawers, will try to get those done over the winter. Still sitting on front diff and steering rack bushings, and will be doing LBJ and LCA bushings soon. After that stuff is all done, she's good for a while besides little things. Still needing to do the trans fluid drain and fill. I've got a gallon or two of new fluid waiting to get pumped in.
- Thread starter
- #88
I think like $30?
- Thread starter
- #89
Freshening up, little things here and there.
Yesterday I pulled the seat belts all the way out and cleaned them. Soaked with a mix of woolite and water 1:7, with some white vinegar thrown in for funsies. After a few minutes, I hit them with the pressure washing for a really satisfying outcome.
Then I got started freshening my exterior window trim. Over time the rubberized coating will fade or crack. In my case, it was fading and spotted but luckily no cracking. I sanded smooth with #0000 steel wool and cleaned thoroughly with degreaser and soft brush.
After sanding:
Yesterday I pulled the seat belts all the way out and cleaned them. Soaked with a mix of woolite and water 1:7, with some white vinegar thrown in for funsies. After a few minutes, I hit them with the pressure washing for a really satisfying outcome.
Then I got started freshening my exterior window trim. Over time the rubberized coating will fade or crack. In my case, it was fading and spotted but luckily no cracking. I sanded smooth with #0000 steel wool and cleaned thoroughly with degreaser and soft brush.
After sanding:
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- #90
Then today I masked and sprayed with trim and bumper paint. This is made to restore faded plastic or rubber trim pieces. It's thick and has a rubbery quality to it. They also advertise UV fade resistance.
I did 2-3 light coats, and 2 heavier coats. Overall I'm happy with it. It won't be such an eye sore that will catch my attention so much in the future.
Up next for Gerry: Jason's rear UCAs will be delivered this week, hoping to get those in asap before having it aligned again. I also talked my dad into helping build a drawer set up during the Thanksgiving visit, so fingers crossed that gets worked out. Still sitting on and collecting more bushings for a front end refresh soon.
I did 2-3 light coats, and 2 heavier coats. Overall I'm happy with it. It won't be such an eye sore that will catch my attention so much in the future.
Up next for Gerry: Jason's rear UCAs will be delivered this week, hoping to get those in asap before having it aligned again. I also talked my dad into helping build a drawer set up during the Thanksgiving visit, so fingers crossed that gets worked out. Still sitting on and collecting more bushings for a front end refresh soon.
- Thread starter
- #91
We keep on rolling...
Installed a pair of Trail Tailor's rear upper control arms this afternoon. It's a banana and a half, maybe two if you're pretty large and can't scoot around on a creeper under the rear pumpkin. I did use a rubber mallet to coax the ends into place as the new bushings are very snug in the mounting location. Nuts are 24mm, bolts are 19mm. Took me about 2 hours including clean up and test drive.
Still waiting to do diff, rack, LCA bushings, plus LBJs and TREs. My front end creaks like a wooden ship and it's quite unbecoming. I also managed to rope my sister's BF, one of my long term good friends and hobbyist carpenter, into helping with the drawers next week. Lucky for dad.
Installed a pair of Trail Tailor's rear upper control arms this afternoon. It's a banana and a half, maybe two if you're pretty large and can't scoot around on a creeper under the rear pumpkin. I did use a rubber mallet to coax the ends into place as the new bushings are very snug in the mounting location. Nuts are 24mm, bolts are 19mm. Took me about 2 hours including clean up and test drive.
Still waiting to do diff, rack, LCA bushings, plus LBJs and TREs. My front end creaks like a wooden ship and it's quite unbecoming. I also managed to rope my sister's BF, one of my long term good friends and hobbyist carpenter, into helping with the drawers next week. Lucky for dad.
Just went through entire build thread - great stuff, great mods selection, love all the details.
- Thread starter
- #93
Thanks! It's been fun to go through the truck and make it mine. A friend asked the other day what else could be left to do; there's always a list!
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- #94
One of the brake lights went out about two weeks ago and I've been staring at the dash light and hating it. Yesterday I replaced all of the lights on the back of the truck with LEDs from SBL. I also ordered a new relay to prevent the hyperblink and dash lights, but got the wrong one. The replacement is delivered to my house in Atlanta so I'll swap it when I get home. My reverse lights were already swapped with JDM Astar, so I did the 4 tail/brakes, two license plates, and two signal lights. For my future reference, mileage is 245k.
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- #95
Today was new transfer case lever knob finishing day, plus some PDR and color sanding. The latter are prep work for a big detail sometime in the next few weeks.
Looks good, did you do the PDR yourself?
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- #97
Yeah, I just messed around with a little tool kit I bought on Amazon. I've had a handful of pros tell me the big dent was too much for PDR, so I decided to try the rest on my own.
sammybones
Study in Moppishness
Looking good GA.
- Thread starter
- #99
I finished a 3 day exterior detail. This included a lot of wet sanding, some dent pulling, a fair bit of paint touch up, a roof rack delete, some hopes and prayers, then a ceramic coating at the end. All in all, for a trail truck that's had some character added, it turned out great. Almost all of the big scratches sanded and buffed out. I had a few down to primer and they filled in pretty well with touch up.
Started with a stripper wash. Then Black Fire iron remover. Then I used my nano-skin pad on my PC to 'clay' the whole truck. These are cool if you've clayed the vehicle recently, but not as effective (IMO) if paint is really contaminated. In my case, it was relatively clean in that respect. I used 3D One hybrid compound/polish on mainly buff 'n shine MF cutting and polishing pads. My first time using either of these. The 3DO goes from removing sanding marks down to final polishing, just swap your pads to decrease cutting power. Really, really nice product. I did find that my PC didn't have the nuts to remove the sanding marks without taking forever, so I bumped to my Makita rotary for those spots. I did the whole truck twice, basically. Once with the cutters and once with the polishers. Next was a prep wipe with Gyeon Q2M prep spray. Smells good, does it's job, I guess. Then I did my touch up. I ordered a Dr Colorchip kit as everything I found online looked great. The paint match is dead-on. For individual spots, I'd go with the blob/sand/clear method as it's the best, but I had so much road rash in the front after 250k, I'd rather repaint it than hit them all one at a time. Then a real quick second prep wipe, and coated with McKees 37 SiO2 ceramic coating. I've been pretty old school with my LSPs, favoring oily carnubas or sealants like KSG. This was my first shot with a coating. I figured, with the abuse the truck gets, I may as well try the most durable protection. This was on sale and I liked the cheapish price (~$40?) for a first attempt. It goes on easy, comes off with a little elbow grease. It did a great job literally 'adding gloss' to portions of the lower cladding with failing, faded clear coat. I'm really impressed here, and am looking forward to seeing how it holds up. Tomorrow after 24 hours of curing I'll wash it again and hit it with their SiO2 booster spray.
Started with a stripper wash. Then Black Fire iron remover. Then I used my nano-skin pad on my PC to 'clay' the whole truck. These are cool if you've clayed the vehicle recently, but not as effective (IMO) if paint is really contaminated. In my case, it was relatively clean in that respect. I used 3D One hybrid compound/polish on mainly buff 'n shine MF cutting and polishing pads. My first time using either of these. The 3DO goes from removing sanding marks down to final polishing, just swap your pads to decrease cutting power. Really, really nice product. I did find that my PC didn't have the nuts to remove the sanding marks without taking forever, so I bumped to my Makita rotary for those spots. I did the whole truck twice, basically. Once with the cutters and once with the polishers. Next was a prep wipe with Gyeon Q2M prep spray. Smells good, does it's job, I guess. Then I did my touch up. I ordered a Dr Colorchip kit as everything I found online looked great. The paint match is dead-on. For individual spots, I'd go with the blob/sand/clear method as it's the best, but I had so much road rash in the front after 250k, I'd rather repaint it than hit them all one at a time. Then a real quick second prep wipe, and coated with McKees 37 SiO2 ceramic coating. I've been pretty old school with my LSPs, favoring oily carnubas or sealants like KSG. This was my first shot with a coating. I figured, with the abuse the truck gets, I may as well try the most durable protection. This was on sale and I liked the cheapish price (~$40?) for a first attempt. It goes on easy, comes off with a little elbow grease. It did a great job literally 'adding gloss' to portions of the lower cladding with failing, faded clear coat. I'm really impressed here, and am looking forward to seeing how it holds up. Tomorrow after 24 hours of curing I'll wash it again and hit it with their SiO2 booster spray.
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- #100
Some more pics of the detail.
That flat black window trim on the door frames? That polishes up really well!
Headlights got sanded and buffed. Good Lord, don't use the clear coat in lens restoring kits! It yellows, it flakes, it clouds, it never goes on right. For the next guy who wants to actually do it correctly, it's a huge pain to sand it off. I've hit these lenses 3 times now, getting more and more off each time. I think I finally got it completely removed from the one side this time around. 600, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, cut and polish with MF pads on my PC.
Water spots and no water spots.
That flat black window trim on the door frames? That polishes up really well!
Headlights got sanded and buffed. Good Lord, don't use the clear coat in lens restoring kits! It yellows, it flakes, it clouds, it never goes on right. For the next guy who wants to actually do it correctly, it's a huge pain to sand it off. I've hit these lenses 3 times now, getting more and more off each time. I think I finally got it completely removed from the one side this time around. 600, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, cut and polish with MF pads on my PC.
Water spots and no water spots.
