Gear Install Question (Marlin Will Not Help)!

[akarilo]

Sorry if I sound disgruntled, but I am. After purchasing (2) sets of T-case gears last week to the tune of $1633.00, I have been told by Brandon (I think), that the gears are for the "end user" to install and "if the online instructions don't cover it, we can't help you further". They are not that comprehensive IMO.

I'll admit that I spoke with Rocky on (2) separate occasions today and he was very helpful. I ran into 1 last issue and called back. Brandon basically told me to take a hike and that Rocky is not even supposed to get on the phone. Statement below is taken directly from the online instruction set.

"If you have any questions at all, do not hesitate to give us a call toll free at (888)94-CRAWL [888-942-7295]. Go out and start CRAWLING!"

So, my final question (I hope) is; when the t-case actuator motor is removed there is a plastic gear left that rotates and moves a shaft forward/ rearward. I left the motor in the locked position prior to removing it. (Back to the gear), clockwise pulls the rod/ shaft forward and counter clockwise moves it backward. With the motor removed in the locked position, does the rod/ shaft need to be forward or all the way back? I'm guessing to the rear. Anybody know? I'm sure Rocky does, but as stated earlier, they wont let me talk to him anymore.

 

[concretejungle]

i'm very curious about your outcome! Been thinking about this gear.... sorry i'm no help.

 

[ajax1]

Call Slee they have done some

 

[concretejungle]

are you talking about in the top of post #8 here: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=88536.0

 

[akarilo]

are you talking about in the top of post #8 here: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=88536.0

No, the "shaft" I'm speaking of is hidden behind the large low range gear and can't be seen with the cluster installed. When the plastic gear (operated by the actuator motor) spins, it pushes this shaft out, from somewhat of a flush position.

 

[Pin_Head]

The FSM says:

HINT:
At the time of reassembly, please refer to the following items.
1. Set the motor actuator in differential lock condition.
2. Reassembly is in the reverse order of disassembly.

 

[akarilo]

The FSM says:

HINT:
At the time of reassembly, please refer to the following items.
1. Set the motor actuator in differential lock condition.
2. Reassembly is in the reverse order of disassembly.

I was going to refer to it this evening when I get home. Problem is, when I was fishing around for the torx bolt that needs to be removed, I accidentally rotated the wheel/ plastic gear. I don't know what position it's supposed to be in for the "locked position".

 

[mickeyt]

Pretty Dee-baggish to take that kind of stance with a paying customer imho.

 

[Rwhat]

Sorry to hear that. I remember 10+ years ago when marlin would answer the phone and talk to me personally. He wouldn't even rush me off.

Via verbal discription he had me a custom bent w56 shifter made with a machined spacer because of my body lift for my 4runner.

 

[Tools R Us]

... I accidentally rotated the wheel/ plastic gear. I don't know what position it's supposed to be in for the "locked position".

What plastic gear? The only ones that I can think of in the transfer are the speedo and the one inside of the CDL actuator?

 

[akarilo]

What plastic gear? The only ones that I can think of in the transfer are the speedo and the one inside of the CDL actuator?

Maybe it's not plastic, I can only see it with a mirror. It's the gear/ wheel that is rotated by the gear on the actuator motor. Counter clock-wise pushes the shaft rearward.

 

[Tools R Us]

Maybe it's not plastic, I can only see it with a mirror. It's the gear/ wheel that is rotated by the gear on the actuator motor. Counter clock-wise pushes the shaft rearward.

It is metal. It turns one way to lock the other to unlock. I manually cycle it a couple of times, then leave it in the fully locked position.

 

[Pin_Head]

I was going to refer to it this evening when I get home. Problem is, when I was fishing around for the torx bolt that needs to be removed, I accidentally rotated the wheel/ plastic gear. I don't know what position it's supposed to be in for the "locked position".

Plug the actuator in, lock it and you are done.

 

[akarilo]

It is metal. It turns one way to lock the other to unlock. I manually cycle it a couple of times, then leave it in the fully locked position.

Cool, I'll just wait till I get it all back together and then cycle it before re installing the motor. Makes sense now. I may drop the whole case on the other truck as this one has been a PITA wallowing around on the ground. Ben at Slee told me that drop the whole case on all of them that they do. Opinions?

 

[dallen341]

Cool, I'll just wait till I get it all back together and then cycle it before re installing the motor. Makes sense now. I may drop the whole case on the other truck as this one had been a PITA wallowing around on the ground. Ben at Slee told me that drop the whole case on all of them that they do. Opinions?

I'd drop the case. I did a part time kit recently. Pulled the t-case apart in the truck. I ultimately pulled the entire t-case out to bench assemble. Way easier!

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD

 

[akarilo]

Sorry to hear that. I remember 10+ years ago when marlin would answer the phone and talk to me personally. He wouldn't even rush me off

Same here. I bought a 4.7 complete box 9 years ago for the 4runner. Couldn't have asked for a better product/experience.

Today on the other hand, I told Brandon that their refusal to field one last question from me left a bad taste in my mouth. He sat there in silence, so I eventually said, "well I guess we're done now"? Nothing. I'm pretty blown away actually.

 

[TexasJack]

If you just want to send your transfer case to someone who will ship you back a completely rebuilt one at a great price, contact Robbie Antonson in Boulder. He's the best out there at rebuilding 80 series transfer cases.

Remove yours, install the rebuilt one and ship your old one back to him. Best deal going.

He is on Mud - Powderpig. PM me if you want his Email or Cell phone number.

 

[REKCUT]

Call and insist on talking to marlin. I had similar problem several years ago. Bought a toy box for my 60. Instructions were on line but were for a 40. Not very descriptive. When we called and asked for help, I was told that the product was not ment to be used in a land cruiser so they could not help. I was pissed. Actually ran into Marlin at an event in Texas. NICEST MAN EVER. Spent an hour discussing it with me. Helped me with another problem. Then a year later ran into him at another Texas event. The bearing case shelled on my toy box. He had me ship it to him and he replaced it and sent it back at no charge after 2 years of hard use. Said it was his problem.

He told me he never hears about these problems. If you can get to him, he is the best and I would bet money he will talk with you.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Cool, I'll just wait till I get it all back together and then cycle it before re installing the motor. Makes sense now. I may drop the whole case on the other truck as this one has been a PITA wallowing around on the ground. Ben at Slee told me that drop the whole case on all of them that they do. Opinions?

Dropping the case is a waste of time IMO. Most of the work is done outside of the case. I converted to part-time and did the low range gears and did not see the need to drop the case either time.

I do agree the Marlins instruction available are weak, almost more confusing then just doing it.

 

[sleeoffroad]

Today on the other hand, I told Brandon that their refusal to field one last question from me left a bad taste in my mouth. He sat there in silence, so I eventually said, "well I guess we're done now"? Nothing. I'm pretty blown away actually.

I don't want to be a a-hole here or talk for Marlin or defend them, but when a supplier sells a part, they are responsible for the installation of the part, and not how to take the transfer case apart and put it back together. They are expecting that the customer either knows how to do it, or if not has access to the factory manual on how assemble the case again. Even more so if it has to do with the actuator and not knowing how it goes together.

Now if the issue was getting the gear on the shaft etc, then I can understand the frustration on the stance that they took.

As for removing the case, yes technically not needed, but honestly for us at that shop, it is way easier to remove the 6 bolts and drop the case and work on the bench. Having a lift and transmission jack is obviously different than on a creeper in the driveway.