GA 55 left in woods for 20 yrs- 10/73 model

[Midgainc]

So.........what are you saying? Work with it or delete it and get a work out?

 

[scrapdaddy]

Pretty Much.

 

[Midgainc]

I ordered some more rust converter today. I am getting ready to start going back. I am going to rust treat the firewall, inner and outer, paint with a flat black, and then start hanging stuff back on the inside and out. I am also getting ready to work on my front clip. I want to see some progress!

Not sure what you guys are using, but I have been using a product called black star for the past year from mrochem. http://www.mrochem.com/ I buy it by the gallon, and for the hard to reach places on the pig, I bought some aerosol. It is expensive, but it works like a dream. It is a product that is used in the shipyards of Long Island. Watch the videos. It works great on the frame. I usually paint right over it, if it is visible. Awesome stuff.

 

[PabloCruise]

Looks interesting - thanks for the recommendation!

 

[Midgainc]

Engine time

took the engine out today. what a pain. I kept pulling and the engine, transmission, and transfer case all came out at the same time. It was heavy. I couldnt stand it any longer, so I started tearing the engine down to see what was freezing it up. The cam looks pretty good, nasty, but good. The oil pan was 1/2" deep in crud, but no apparent metal. I took all of the rod and main caps off and there was nothing more than some slight corrosion on the crank. I think .010 and it will be fine. My problem is getting the crank out.

1.)How do you get that plate that goes around the crank timing gear off? THere are some huge flatheaded screws in there, but I could not get them to budge. I broke a gear puller also, trying to pull the gear off.

2.) The clutch......how does that come off. I scratched my head a minute on that one. I have never taken one off before, and with the engine out and upside down on the floor, it is not really intuitive on how it detaches itself from the crank. I can lift the crank only a little on each end, but not both at the same time. Any pointers?

Look at the oil pump, please. Tell me if you think a 2F will work on it.

Thanks.

 

[OGBeno]

took the engine out today. what a pain. I kept pulling and the engine, transmission, and transfer case all came out at the same time. It was heavy. I couldnt stand it any longer, so I started tearing the engine down to see what was freezing it up. The cam looks pretty good, nasty, but good. The oil pan was 1/2" deep in crud, but no apparent metal. I took all of the rod and main caps off and there was nothing more than some slight corrosion on the crank. I think .010 and it will be fine. My problem is getting the crank out.

1.)How do you get that plate that goes around the crank timing gear off? THere are some huge flatheaded screws in there, but I could not get them to budge. I broke a gear puller also, trying to pull the gear off.

2.) The clutch......how does that come off. I scratched my head a minute on that one. I have never taken one off before, and with the engine out and upside down on the floor, it is not really intuitive on how it detaches itself from the crank. I can lift the crank only a little on each end, but not both at the same time. Any pointers?

Look at the oil pump, please. Tell me if you think a 2F will work on it.

Thanks.

I'm like 20 mins away from you. You should call when you need help. I have tools and knowledge and am happy to assist.

 

[Midgainc]

I hired a new kid this week. He is a college grad that doesn't have the entitlement attitude so pervasive in today's youth. He does office work and pig work. I have him doing the dirty work and helping things move along with the pig. He has bodywork experience, which is a huge plus for me, since I have none.

The bad news is that we are dealing with a cancer scare with my mother in law. First time our family has seen it. It has hit us all hard and has dulled my passion for flying, shooting, working on my c10 and working on my pig......and just plain working. Sorry for the delay on the hinge rebuild. I have not made that a priority, but I will check in with that tomorrow or Friday. The window gears are in process, and only need to be completed. I am waiting on my old buddies to get with it. One is 73 and the other is 63, so they don't move too fast. With the kid around, it is easier to stay interested in things. I am not giving up.

 

[nuclearlemon]

1.)How do you get that plate that goes around the crank timing gear off? THere are some huge flatheaded screws in there, but I could not get them to budge.
2.) The clutch......how does that come off. I scratched my head a minute on that one. I have never taken one off before, and with the engine out and upside down on the floor, it is not really intuitive on how it detaches itself from the crank. I can lift the crank only a little on each end, but not both at the same time. Any pointers?

1) loctite freeze and release, then hit with impact drivers. if still nothing, then heat with torch and then freeze and release again
2) you will see some bolt heads near the original bottom of the bellhousing, now top, unbolt those. the issue will be getting to the ones you can't get two while engine is frozen. with the caps off the rods and mains, you will hopefully be able to turn crank/flywheel/clutch and get the other bolts where you need them to be to get them off.

 

[Midgainc]

I have never used loctite freeze and release. Is that a can of refrigerant? I will look for that.

I have isolated the source of the locked up-ness of my engine. It is the pistons frozen to the sidewalls. The cam turned freely once separated from the crank, and the mains and rod bearings were all loose, albeit some mior corrosion on some. However, I cannot move the rods enough to turn the crank. I am going to hammer the pistons out or break them. Either way, they must come out, and will not be reused. Then I can turn the crank and get to the bolts you are referring to. I just hope the pitting is not beyond boring out. I will find out soon enough. Thanks for the help.

 

[nuclearlemon]

I have never used loctite freeze and release. Is that a can of refrigerant? I will look for that.
.

it's a freezing penetrant. we started carrying it at work about 6 months ago and i brought home a test can. pretty wicked stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Freeze-Release-13-52-996456/dp/B001VXU474

here it is popping loose the rotten bolts on my midwestern 80 series. you can hear the creak of the rust breaking loose.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zLSMmovmT1c

and the rusted to crap o2 sensor
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBU1gLu_Lv4

sorry for the horrible videos.

worked great on the old tin master cylinders on annie too. can't torque on those because the tin cups will literally rip right off...a little freeze and release and they spun off. and no, i don't work for loctite. i don't even really like their stuff.

 

[Midgainc]

Today, we continued our progress on the pig. All glass is out and the window beds have been cleaned and rust treated. The front frame and steering Box have been cleaned and rust treated. The firewall is now treated. We are working on taking off the tailgate so the better one can be put on. The inside of the fenders, hood, and engine shields have all been cleaned and rustproofed.

I have removed 4 of the cylinders from the block. One piston has not budged, and one piston end blew off when I put heat to it and hammered it. I am still hopeful that the block can be bored to serviceable levels, but....it could be beyond repair. I hope to find out next week.

Question: who is the best supplier of F155 overhaul parts? I found one guy in Utah that has what I need sans oil pump. JCOutfitters claims to have a new oil pump that works with f1.5's. Does anyone have a source for a complete kit? I plan on using a stock head gasket if Beno can get me one???

Also, do you recommend taking the 3 sp tranny down and replacing the seals and bearings? I do not want to take that thing out again.

We have been working on the roof too. I will be adding two more support ribs, but I really need some stiffeners for all of them. Any suggestions? I was thinking 1/4 " square tubing molded to the curve of the roof and welded on the inside channel.

All in all, it has been a productive week. I am really wanting to see this thing through. I want to drive this thing. Still need: engine OH, install drivetrain, replace rockers, overhaul doors, rebuild tailgate, paint, decide on seats, overhaul brake and clutch systems, tires and rims.

I have two steel spare rims. If I do not put in power steering, the smaller tires supported by the steel rims seem like a smart choice. Ay suggestions?

 

[Delancy]

Sounds like a lot of progress.

If the block winds up being trashed, don't despair. I have two that I can't give away.

Onur sourced all other gaskets and pretty sure the head gasket was still available, too. Have a Felpro "kit" but condition s debatable.

You gotta post pics!!

 

[scrapdaddy]

Midgainc,

My opinion, if you're going over everything, then take the time and rebuild both transmission and transfer case. One time and done.

Sounds like you're moving along and doing it right. Good Job!

 

[nuclearlemon]

Have a Felpro "kit" but condition s debatable.

avoid felpro. i've never had an issue with felpro in my chevys so years ago, i replaced the head gasket on my 78 with felpro. six months later, the head gasket blew. replaced again with felpro. around the same time, my friends dad was rebuilding her engine with felpro gaskets. 6-8 months later, both of our gaskets blew. i parted my rig out after that and they put toyota in hers. 15 years later, i think the new owner finally rebuilt the engine again, but no issues with the h.g. blowing, just tired engine

 

[Delancy]

avoid felpro.

Good info. I'd never considered running anything but OE, if available.

Had an entire "kit" come with the 71. If memory serves, it was boxed in an SOR labelled package, but could be wrong, or could be repackaged. Hard to say.

 

[Midgainc]

What happened to "the kit?" I wonder how much is compatible with an F155? It's. long shot, but who knows? I know I will need oversized pistons, rings, and bearings.

 

[Delancy]

What happened to "the kit?" I wonder how much is compatible with an F155? It's. long shot, but who knows? I know I will need oversized pistons, rings, and bearings.

Sitting on a stack of tires and wheels in storage bay.

I don't know of any difference, but I'm the last person that I'd ask.

Edited: 68-74 are listed the same.

 

[Midgainc]

Delancy, do an inventory of what is in "the kit," and let me know what's there and what you want for it. If it is a complete OH kit, then, I can prob use some stuff if it is oversized. I hope to get my crank and block checked this week, and see what is required.

Friday, we removed the roof ribs, and corrosion proofed their tops and the roof. This week we are adding stiffeners to them, and welding the two originals plus two more in. No roof rack is going to cave it in again. We will also, weld up the pillars and cut out the rockers so that I can see how many floor supports I need. Once I have that done, it will be time to get with bobm.

Anyone with tranny experience? I know that the Haynes manual makes it look easy diasaembling the transfer case and transmission. This is something I have zero experience in. Should I attempt it or should I get a professional to do it? The inside of the transmission is clean, and no evidence of broken gears or corrosion. I want to replace the seals and bearings just so I know that it is done, and will not need it. Anyone else done this?

 

[Midgainc]

Body work begins

Well, we are getting serious about making the pig good for something! We started with the caved in roof system by taking out the original two ribs, reinforcing them with healdiner rods, welded in, and then putting four of the ribs back in the ceiling. Should be pretty stout. I am very pleased with how supported the roof will be when we are done.

The DS rear tailight has been giving me heartburn since I saw the dent. Turned out to be a piece of cake. Look at photos. Used screws, crow bar, wooden block, welder, and a grinder. We have the first layer of bondo on now.

The brake system is completely trashed. I will later post a photo of the DS rear brake after the drum was pulled today.

 

[Midgainc]

roof rib bracing

I thought this was an ingenious idea since I had an extra pig's worth, and have no intention of installing a new headliner. What do you think?