Fuel pumps on 1974 fj40?? (1 Viewer)

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Apr 18, 2010
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I seem to get about 2 years out of these pricey mech pumps.
I think they can be rebuilt?? Anyone have kit info?

I am currently stuck in Springer NM and the pump went out on me.

I may have to rural engineer am elec pump inline?????

I searched the FAQs but couldn't find much. I know a lot of people switch to elect pump...

I KNOW i need to clean and recon the tank, i get rust dust in the carb bowl. I keep fresh fuel filter pretty often.

Will tank crud get past the filter and ruin my pump?

Was running great, parked it for about 5 weeks and now, no fuel past the mech pump, but gas in tank and line and filter.

I've got to get back on the road quickly , Burt AM in no where.

There is atoy dealer in Trinidad. 90 mins

Any word of wisdom?😊
 
I just run a low pressure diode electric pump. Like <$15 on ebay. They last for years. I have a man-a-fre block off plate and run a Rochester 2 bbl. Back in the 80 the gas tank seeped a little at a seam. The tank was spotless inside so I did the alcohol proof liner from JC Whitney - never had another issue. I have an inline throw away fuel filter plus a glass bowl gascolator. I like the yellow bottle fuel dryer.

I dry the paper element filters in the sun and reuse them. When the paper is wet with water fuel doesn't pass easily.
I built my own electric fuel transfer pump. I used the same diode pump and filters, so its spare parts that will swap right in.

Way back before I went to electric pump, I ran it on a gravity feed system from a 5 gallon can on the roof rack to get home.
 
Cheap electric pump wired to a switched circuit (if an emergency go temporarily to the head lights) and a cheap in-line fuel filter. It will get you on the road until you can dedicate more time to it.
 
Thanks guys for the quick chime in!

I'm heading to Napa when the open. Only 300 people in this town, but 2 auto parts stores, LOL. I'll pick up a elect inline and just bypass the mech for now. Thanks for the headlght switch tip! If that doesn't cut it, I will put the gas can on the roof and try the gravity method, LOL! Love it.

I will be near Truth or Consequences for the next 8 mos and will re do the tank then. Hope I can save the original. Even the fill neck is rusty as heck so....

Thanks for the confidence boost.
 
If you're near a Toyota dealer I would be buying a new tank. Why would you try and save the original that you know is having issues when new are under $450.

Also, it might simply be that your tank pickup is clogged. Did you try blowing air back though (with your lungs) the feed line? My 77 is having this issue right now.
 
I seem to get about 2 years out of these pricey mech pumps.
I think they can be rebuilt?? Anyone have kit info?
Here is a option for rebuilding original mech pump.
 
If you're near a Toyota dealer I would be buying a new tank. They are under $450
I am considering... I thought I would see what I am dealing with first. There should be a dealer in ABQ if I need.
 
heading over to CruiserMatt online store right now...
 
I am considering... I thought I would see what I am dealing with first. There should be a dealer in ABQ if I need.
I went back and edited my comment with some thoughts about other potential issues.
 
If you're near a Toyota dealer I would be buying a new tank. Why would you try and save the original that you know is having issues when new are under $450.

Also, it might simply be that your tank pickup is clogged. Did you try blowing air back though (with your lungs) the feed line? My 77 is having this issue right now.
I did NOT try blowing back through the line. Will go do that before parts store. no compressed air, just lungs.
I have a aftermarket carb with the original return line blocked off. I also have a fuel pressure reg just before the carb set to 3lbs. This was working great all winter and spring.
 
You didn't mention anything about fuel filter(s). Sounds like none are in place if getting rust in carb. Debris will kill any pump, mechanical or electric. Good luck on getting back on the road.
 
You didn't mention anything about fuel filter(s). Sounds like none are in place if getting rust in carb. Debris will kill any pump, mechanical or electric. Good luck on getting back on the road.
Checked and replaced inline filter first. Seemed okay. Was full of gas.
Have another new filter to install.
Had to drive 90 mins to find apart store that was still in business.

Now back to the truck

image.jpg
 
Update:
I tried Cruisermatts suggestion to blow back through the line...
sure enough, glug! Moved a blockage and then it was free.
Good lord, embarassing!

Pump is okay. And now i have a spare electrical pump too.

Gonna pull the tank next week - the Cruiser Gods have spoken!!😁😁
 
It was fresh on my mind as I was on the side of the road about five times in a three day period last week with this one before I finally got it figured out. :bang:

D1D08878-0E95-40E8-887E-FD0EC83E6FE1.jpeg
 
Turns out i have an aftermarket poly tank, no straps. Gonna drain and clean and re install.
Fill neck is Rusty on the inside, looking for a kit on cruiserteq.
My guage has never been accurate so sending Unit may be in order.

Shows 3/4 when full and E when more than 1/4 tank. Could float be bad?

New OEM tanks are $650+ and it seems that the partial return line and desmog leftovers mean the poly tank doesn't "suck" and collapse??!!


image.jpg
 
Dude, throw that trash away and put a OEM tank in. They are a lot less then $650, It would maybe be around there if you bought one from me and shipped it :lol:
 
That's really gonna eat my tire budget. I see that ccot has a replica steel tank for about $400...
New fill neck and sending unit too.
 

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