Front Axle Leak - Both Sides (1 Viewer)

[brooklyn]

Yes, new races. So the sizing difference of the bearing is a non-issue?

Will move forward then…

 

[RevISK]

As long as the races fit and you’re not left with more/less height.

The replacement bearings I just put on the 62 were Koyo and more tapered but fit perfectly. Seems like that’s what you have?

I got my kit from Marlin Crawler.

 

[brooklyn]

@ RevIsk - I purchased mine from Marlin as well. Thanks for the help on this one!

 

[RevISK]

@ RevIsk - I purchased mine from Marlin as well. Thanks for the help on this one!

For sure. Get that preload right for both sets of bearings. Taking stuff apart is not fun.

 

[RevISK]

I mean trunion and wheel bearing preload

 

[RevISK]

@brooklyn , how’s it going?

 

[brooklyn]

- this video is helping.

Races are in and I just purchased a pitman are puller from harbor freight, so I would say "baby steps". I read that this each side should take about 4 hours, at my rate I am looking at 4 days per side.

 

[RevISK]

- this video is helping.

Races are in and I just purchased a pitman are puller from harbor freight, so I would say "baby steps". I read that this each side should take about 4 hours, at my rate I am looking at 4 days per side.

Good luck pulling TREs with that HF pitman arm puller. If you’re replacing the TREs a pickle fork is easier and actually works.

That video is pretty good.

4 hours per side if everything goes smoothly and you aren’t refreshing/cleaning/painting.

Second side will go quicker but don’t get cocky, like I tend to do.

 

[1MOA]

Don't forget to keep your shims in the same order as well.

 

[RevISK]

Don't forget to keep your shims in the same order as well.

Yeah. Definitely bag them and mark the bags DS - top, DS - bottom etc…

 

[pb4ugo]

Find a different video. I'm pretty sure his instructions are wrong. And dont use a grinder.

 

[RevISK]

@pb4ugo
What is it you think he did wrong? I watched the video quite awhile ago, and while he’s a bit heavy handed, I remember it mostly seemed to track with the FSM. He definitely is resourceful and I think that’s a plus.

I’m not defending him by any means, just curious if there was a specific error he made or something I don’t remember.

For me, this video and others like it, were good for demystifying the perceived voodoo of this job. The manual is still invaluable for me for torque values etc… I’m no expert, but I could confidently do a knuckle job. In fact, I’ve got one in my future… just dragging my feet.

 

[pb4ugo]

I guess my problem is he's just pulling shims from the bottom cap to adjust preload.

 

[RevISK]

I guess my problem is he's just pulling shims from the bottom cap to adjust preload.
View attachment 3426212

Yeah, while in no means as accurate as using a proper centering tool, it’s essentially what the FSM (which can be way too vague) says. It’s certainly a sloppy way to do it.

Not arguing with you at all, I accidentally threw away the top set of shims on my first knuckle I ever did (didn’t bag and label properly), I ended up doing what he did based on the manual to get the proper preload. When I finally got a centering tool it ended up being spot on.

Lucky and stupid can sometimes collide into success, but I try not to count on that.

Thanks,
Ian

 

[brooklyn]

I have completed rebuilding the knuckles and now I am reattaching the tie rods. However, when I reattach the tie rods the steering wheel it isn't oriented correctly - off by half a turn. I wasn't expecting this as I had a recent alignment and the steering wheel orientation was correct. Any thoughts as to what is caused this?

Also, and suggests on how best to rectify?

 

[B y r o n]

I have completed rebuilding the knuckles and now I am reattaching the tie rods. However, when I reattach the tie rods the steering wheel it isn't oriented correctly - off by half a turn. I wasn't expecting this as I had a recent alignment and the steering wheel orientation was correct. Any thoughts as to what is caused this?

Also, and suggests on how best to rectify?

Have you checked what the FSM has to say about this?

 

[RevISK]

If it tracks well pull the steering wheel and center to that center?

Happened with my 40 and that’s what I did to remedy. Although, I did my own alignment.

 

[brooklyn]

Have you checked what the FSM has to say about this?

Not yet, was sitting on the garage floor when I posted . Will do more research.

 

[brooklyn]

If it tracks well pull the steering wheel and center to that center?

Happened with my 40 and that’s what I did to remedy. Although, I did my own alignment.

Looking at that -- have seen a post on losing the rag joint and and rotating as well. Just don't known what caused this to occur...

 

[RevISK]

Looking at that -- have seen a post on losing the rag joint and and rotating as well. Just don't known what caused this to occur...

I think as long as the pitman arm is straight forward while the tires are tracking straight forward you should be good to rotate the steering wheel to where it aligns.

On the 62 I swapped out TRE’s (come to think of it, same with the 40) I did use the rag joint to adjust but I was also getting a pull that was a combination of factors, one being the preload being a little tighter on the right wheel and a blockage in the brake line on that side as well.