Front Axle Rebuild - For FAQ (2 Viewers)

[lp2k]

The flange was upgraded to a meatier version in '94. You have a '92 right?

To fit the April '94 and on uprated flange you will need a longer CV / Birf to accommodate the increased thickness on the outer end. Aftermarket Birfs are available. Toyota ones are very expensive, at least they are where I come from

Agree above

Excellent info - thanks for the insight. I've hacked a few of these and although it worked out, I'd rather keep this one shiny. I have a few spring center punches, and I think all of the tools needed. (Plus, the shop where I will do the job has a full complement of specialty tools as well.)

@lp2k - thoughts on flange replacement before tear down? I know you've helped out a few posters with incorrect spacing, replacement, etc.

You really will not know until you have it apart. When I did it, my birf had some rough spots and I had the pre-4/94 flange anyways so I replaced both (birf and flange for each side). I guess you also want to check the budget and long term strategy. If you want to keep cost down and save $$, no need to worry about buying it. I was OCD lol.

 

[BlutoF15]

Hm. I think I’m being OCD….which I’m okay with lol

I have a 1992; I have thrown cash at @cruiseroutfit , @NLXTACY and McGeorge so far with a knuckle rebuild kit, full stud and hardware replacement for both sides, a spare hardware kit for when I break something, Trail Gear spindle nut kit, front drive shaft u-joints and driveshaft hardware, new rotors and pads, a spring gauge, new front caliper bolts, and one sweet-ass laminated poster of the whole job to hang next to me while I go.

But I do have new birfields as well, so I get more confused the more I read about whether I’m going to have an issue with the flange spacing on the replacement birfs from C.O.

(That list is probably OCD? That’s after the CO guys talked me out of buying new inner drive shafts before I even look. I can’t help it. I’m good saving bucks on paint, cosmetics, etc. I need this thing to be mechanically sound. Never mind my inability to distinguish need from want.)

 

[BlutoF15]

The flange was upgraded to a meatier version in '94. You have a '92 right?

To fit the April '94 and on uprated flange you will need a longer CV / Birf to accommodate the increased thickness on the outer end. Aftermarket Birfs are available. Toyota ones are very expensive, at least they are where I come from

I think this actually clears it up. I bought the recommended aftermarket birfs from cruiser outfitters, and have original (as far as I know) flanges. So I’m going forward assuming that I’m good.

 

[High Lander]

Check the spec with CO, I'm sure they'll be happy to advise precisely which ones they supplied

 

[BlutoF15]

It’s starting…the parts have starting massing in the garage. The winner for packaging as a work of art goes to @cruiseroutfit

The full front axle kit and bearings in the box, new hardware, spring gauge, and Cruiser Outfitter swag all wrapped and taped neatly and conspicuously to the outsides, and two shiny new birfields packaged separately. Nice work.

One more trip to harbor freight for more towels, brake cleaner, gloves, etc and then it’s just finding two days to knock it out!

 

[subzali]

It’s starting…the parts have starting massing in the garage. The winner for packaging as a work of art goes to @cruiseroutfit

The full front axle kit and bearings in the box, new hardware, spring gauge, and Cruiser Outfitter swag all wrapped and taped neatly and conspicuously to the outsides, and two shiny new birfields packaged separately. Nice work.

View attachment 2939817

View attachment 2939822


One more trip to harbor freight for more towels, brake cleaner, gloves, etc and then it’s just finding two days to knock it out!

Do you have the inner c clips? Those don’t always come in the kits.

 

[BlutoF15]

The ones at the birf/driveshaft connection? (Yes. Packed securely with the birfs but also visible through said packaging.)

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

The ones at the birf/driveshaft connection? (Yes. Packed securely with the birfs but also visible through said packaging.)

A tube of Molly squeezes wonderful into the middle of the new birf. Insert axle with new c clip, voila beautifully packed burps from the inside pushing out.

 

[BlutoF15]

A tube of Molly squeezes wonderful into the middle of the new birf. Insert axle with new c clip, voila beautifully packed burps from the inside pushing out.

Begs a good question. The common sentiment seems to be a one pound tub of grease for each side when reassembling.

Is that in addition to packing the new birf or does the new birf grease come out of the one pound tub? Could make a big difference in a location that doesn’t need to be overfilled

 

[SmokingRocks]

The FSM shows the birf getting packed before going in and the knuckle getting packed 3/4's full.

I always pack the birfs first before inserting them, then I squeeze 2.5 to 3 whole tubes of molly into the knuckle. I spin and rotate the birf around to simulate changes in steering angle which evenly distributes the pack. It's always worked well for me, I'm more worried about underfilling than overfilling. As long as you have some air space it's fine.

 

[BlutoF15]

Elbows deep into the job, only one conflict so far amongst the forums and how to vids. Wheel bearing or moly grease in the knuckle bearings? Moly makes sense…but I’ve never been accused of being an expert.

 

[lp2k]

Moly - only the hub gets the red grease

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Elbows deep into the job, only one conflict so far amongst the forums and how to vids. Wheel bearing or moly grease in the knuckle bearings? Moly makes sense…but I’ve never been accused of being an expert.

The FSM is specific as well as others on here.

Molly in burfields, you can take a tube of Molly with the bird field in the vise and squeeze it right in the middle, then inserting the axle fills the entire burfield from the inside out.

I use Lucas red and tacky red bearing grease for all the bearings and hand pack them.

Both of these products are NLGI2 compatible, If you have the newer style spindles with the needle bearings, the FSM is clear about packing those with wheel bearing grease. Molly will eventually get in there but it is what it is.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

The FSM is specific as well as others on here.

Molly in burfields, you can take a tube of Molly with the bird field in the vise and squeeze it right in the middle, then inserting the axle fills the entire burfield from the inside out.

I use Lucas red and tacky red bearing grease for all the bearings and hand pack them.

Both of these products are NLGI2 compatible, If you have the newer style spindles with the needle bearings, the FSM is clear about packing those with wheel bearing grease. Molly will eventually get in there but it is what it is.

The birf photo shows Molly pushing from the inside out, super easy! Maybe I'll make a video of this and put it on YouTube with a spare birf and tube of grease.

Take time and care hand packing the bearings.

 

[BlutoF15]

Okay, it’s me. Now I’m more confused. Isn’t moly grease for the birfs gray and red is wheel bearing grease?

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Okay, it’s me. Now I’m more confused. Isn’t moly grease for the birfs gray and red is wheel bearing grease?

Yes correct
Molly, gray is the blue Valvoline 2% tube or Lucas industrial 4%

Red the Lucas red n tacky is wheel bearings, high temp, high pressure

I use Lucas red n tacky on u-joints, wheel bearings, slip yoke, everywhere moly isn't spect.

 

[BlutoF15]

“I use Lucas red and tacky red bearing grease for all the bearings and hand pack them.”

Even the knuckle bearings? Shouldn’t that be gray moly grease?

In other words, are you and lp2k in agreement or disagreement?

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

“I use Lucas red and tacky red bearing grease for all the bearings and hand pack them.”

Even the knuckle bearings? Shouldn’t that be gray moly grease?

In other words, are you and lp2k in agreement or disagreement?

Ahh your thinking of the birf and balls as "bearings".

Birf gets gray, think of the burfield not as a "bearing" the bird is designed to "slip" not roll.

Moly is designed for "slipping and sliding"

Red wheel bearings grease is designed for rolling at high rpm and heat.

So yes, like in the photos I added
Moly gray goes in burfield / knuckle
Red is in bearings.

@BlutoF15 do you have an FSM?

 

[BlutoF15]

I do have one, but to be honest I find it more useful as a paperweight.

Talking about these bearings, in the knuckle, which moly everywhere except…the bearings? I’ve seen both ways, no idea which is correct. Red grease here makes no sense to me, but definitely not talking birfs.

 

[BlutoF15]

All I can find. FSM says gray grease in the knuckle bearings. Multiple sources call for red (here and the YouTubes.)