Front Axle Rebuild - For FAQ (2 Viewers)
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Baselining the rig and knew the knuckles were a priority based on the goo oozing from the drivers side knuckle. I had the chance to get in there this weekend and am hoping for some help from the group.
Question #1:
Is this birf smoked? If it is, should I replace both / what with?
I dont see a need to go nuts as Im currently running 33s and dont plan to go bigger but will be adding weight.
This was the drivers side that was soup. Bird cage feels sloppy, balls can pop out and there are some pretty good knicks on the cage. The passenger side was greased and solid. That Birf feels stiffer but theres still a few knicks on the cage but not to the degree of the driver side.
It did click in low / front diff locked pretty lowdly but not in high/unlocked.
Question #2:
Looks like somebody did some digging with a screw driver on axle housing seal seat in order to get the inner seal out. Surface has some pretty good gouges on it. I'd planned to use some fine emory cloth to knock the ridges down as I don't want to get this thing back together and have soup again.
Good idea/bad idea? Does it matter?
Question #3:
I bought the wits end tool in anticipation of having a pretty good groove on the axle from the inner seal leading to the soup and wasn't disappointed. The one with the deep groove is the long. Looks like the short was replaced at some point based on the depth of the groove.
If the answer to #1 is yes, your birf is smoked, does an replacement makes sense or just use the offset and be done?
Luckily, this is the hobby so doesnt need to be back on the road right away but would like to repair economically as I have three little ones that will expect Santa to arrive with something other than truck parts.
Any all feedback is greatly appreciated.
Pete
Baselining the rig and knew the knuckles were a priority based on the goo oozing from the drivers side knuckle. I had the chance to get in there this weekend and am hoping for some help from the group.
Question #1:
Is this birf smoked? If it is, should I replace both / what with?
I dont see a need to go nuts as Im currently running 33s and dont plan to go bigger but will be adding weight.
This was the drivers side that was soup. Bird cage feels sloppy, balls can pop out and there are some pretty good knicks on the cage. The passenger side was greased and solid. That Birf feels stiffer but theres still a few knicks on the cage but not to the degree of the driver side.
It did click in low / front diff locked pretty lowdly but not in high/unlocked.
Question #2:
Looks like somebody did some digging with a screw driver on axle housing seal seat in order to get the inner seal out. Surface has some pretty good gouges on it. I'd planned to use some fine emory cloth to knock the ridges down as I don't want to get this thing back together and have soup again.
Good idea/bad idea? Does it matter?
Question #3:
I bought the wits end tool in anticipation of having a pretty good groove on the axle from the inner seal leading to the soup and wasn't disappointed. The one with the deep groove is the long. Looks like the short was replaced at some point based on the depth of the groove.
If the answer to #1 is yes, your birf is smoked, does an replacement makes sense or just use the offset and be done?
Luckily, this is the hobby so doesnt need to be back on the road right away but would like to repair economically as I have three little ones that will expect Santa to arrive with something other than truck parts.
Any all feedback is greatly appreciated.
Pete
Birfs look normal to me (from here). Clean old moly out and repack with fresh.
Axel opening looks a bit rough but serviceable.
Should be ok when you're done.
Axel opening looks a bit rough but serviceable.
Should be ok when you're done.
Sonofaskipper
SILVER Star
When using Longfield birfs with the zerk fitting and double circlip grooves, does one need to remove the zerk, thread a bolt in the end, pull the Longfield out and run the circlip in the inboard groove?
ppc
M Go Blue
The circlip placed in the inner groove is used when the early/shorter drive flanges are used or the Aisin locking hubs are installed. Removing the zerk to use use a bolt can be a easy way to expose the grove in any birfield. It has nothing to do with having a second grove.
I just did a front axle rebuild on my 80 yesterday, first time for me - thankfully had a friend helping out who had the tools/experience with this sort of job.. still took 12+ hours to do! This thread helped a ton.
Question regarding wheel bearings - for tightening the spindle nuts I didn't use a torque wrench but followed the advice of cranking the inner nut down, spinning the hub a few times, backing the nut off and snugging it just a 1/8 turn past finger tight. Then lock washer then outer nut gets torqued to ~50lb/ft. I was told to feel the outside of the hubs/drive flange after driving to make sure the bearings aren't overheating from being too tight, but after a 2 hr drive both sides felt just slightly warm to the touch. Is this normal or should the hubs feel stone cold to the touch after driving?
Question regarding wheel bearings - for tightening the spindle nuts I didn't use a torque wrench but followed the advice of cranking the inner nut down, spinning the hub a few times, backing the nut off and snugging it just a 1/8 turn past finger tight. Then lock washer then outer nut gets torqued to ~50lb/ft. I was told to feel the outside of the hubs/drive flange after driving to make sure the bearings aren't overheating from being too tight, but after a 2 hr drive both sides felt just slightly warm to the touch. Is this normal or should the hubs feel stone cold to the touch after driving?
Do you know what size of bolt I need to do this? I don't have any laying around and will have to buy one. Is it possible to pull our the axle shaft without this bolt?
I recently found out that one of those extendable magnetic grabber thingies work great for this. I think I got one from harbor freight for a couple of bucks. I guess any strong magnet could work come to think of it
15 lb. Capacity Telescoping Magnetic Pickup Tool
Amazing deals on this 15Lb Telescoping Magnetic Pickup Tool at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
Luckily, the bolt that comes with the Wits End seal driver works perfectly.
I am super glad I kept reading this thread. I was in the middle of creating a document like this. I appreciate your time. I hope you have a nice day.
I just completed this for my 97. I was pretty freaked out about it as I had never done something with so many steps in it. I installed new birfields and drive flanges as part of this job. I ordered all of my parts from Cruiser Outfitters in Utah and they were great to work with. I used all brand new components regardless of whether or not the parts in my rig looked good or not. There is no doubt in my mind that there was nothing old and yucky left in there. I also installed new brake rotors and pads (also silly easy).
I read this entire thread and watched as many videos as possible about it. I found that having the correct drivers for the wheel bearing races was a life saver. I can't imagine trying to drive the inner wheel bearing race in without it. On Page 15 of this thread, post #281, Backwoods Rambler provided a PDF document with the steps for this process. I printed that out and sat it on the deck next to my rig and dug in. I also had my tablet out on a table in my work area with this video playing:
I looked at the PDF print out, played the video, rewound the video, looked at the print out, and got through this without much trouble at all.
Dissassembly went off without a hitch. I soaked everything I could with PB blaster the night before I started the job and it seemed to work very well. The brass hammer was essential in this job. I did not remove the steering arms from their associated rods and links. I just pushed them out of the way after removing them from the knuckle.
I used the zip tie trick to get the axles seated in the new birfield joints. To do that all you have to do is install the new clip into the axle recess, get a zip tie and cinch it around the clip and compress the clip. I snugged it down as tight as I could. Cut the loose end of the zip tie off. Insert the axle into the birfield and wiggle it until you can feel it seating into the birfield. Make sure it has begun seating. I was able to see the shaft sink into the birfield and the zip tie pushed down until it was resting on the outside edge of the birfield cage. Holding the birfield in one hand and the axle in the other (birfield on the bottom and the axle above it), lift the birfield and axle up as one piece and smack the splined end of the birfield down on a piece of wood. I used a 2x6 I had placed on the sidewalk. The axle will slide right in there. Cut the zip tie off and sally forth. It worked so well I almost laughed.
I ordered everything I needed prior to the job including the aforementioned seal driver (make sure it is big enough to drive the race for the inner wheel bearing on the inside of the hub).
This is the one I ordered:
Amazon product ASIN B07PYNPDMD
The brass drift set was great to have and worked excellent. I used it for all of the races and knocking the ABS tone ring off:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XSEC9Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hub socket:
Amazon.com: OTC (6612) 54mm Hex Locknut Socket For Toyota FJ, LN, And RN Models: Automotive
** note about hub socket** My torque wrench is a 3/8" drive. This socket is for a 1/2" drive. I had to get an adapter to use it.
I did not experience any adversity during this process. I know some folks talk about having issues seating trunion bearing races and other things but I just took my time, cleaned the crap out of everything, and was slow and methodical. The most challenging part for me was getting the tone ring onto the new birfields. That took some time and in the end the right stroke with the brass hammer got the job done.
Don't be afraid of this job. Take your time.
I read this entire thread and watched as many videos as possible about it. I found that having the correct drivers for the wheel bearing races was a life saver. I can't imagine trying to drive the inner wheel bearing race in without it. On Page 15 of this thread, post #281, Backwoods Rambler provided a PDF document with the steps for this process. I printed that out and sat it on the deck next to my rig and dug in. I also had my tablet out on a table in my work area with this video playing:
I looked at the PDF print out, played the video, rewound the video, looked at the print out, and got through this without much trouble at all.
Dissassembly went off without a hitch. I soaked everything I could with PB blaster the night before I started the job and it seemed to work very well. The brass hammer was essential in this job. I did not remove the steering arms from their associated rods and links. I just pushed them out of the way after removing them from the knuckle.
I used the zip tie trick to get the axles seated in the new birfield joints. To do that all you have to do is install the new clip into the axle recess, get a zip tie and cinch it around the clip and compress the clip. I snugged it down as tight as I could. Cut the loose end of the zip tie off. Insert the axle into the birfield and wiggle it until you can feel it seating into the birfield. Make sure it has begun seating. I was able to see the shaft sink into the birfield and the zip tie pushed down until it was resting on the outside edge of the birfield cage. Holding the birfield in one hand and the axle in the other (birfield on the bottom and the axle above it), lift the birfield and axle up as one piece and smack the splined end of the birfield down on a piece of wood. I used a 2x6 I had placed on the sidewalk. The axle will slide right in there. Cut the zip tie off and sally forth. It worked so well I almost laughed.
I ordered everything I needed prior to the job including the aforementioned seal driver (make sure it is big enough to drive the race for the inner wheel bearing on the inside of the hub).
This is the one I ordered:
Amazon product ASIN B07PYNPDMD
The brass drift set was great to have and worked excellent. I used it for all of the races and knocking the ABS tone ring off:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XSEC9Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hub socket:
Amazon.com: OTC (6612) 54mm Hex Locknut Socket For Toyota FJ, LN, And RN Models: Automotive
** note about hub socket** My torque wrench is a 3/8" drive. This socket is for a 1/2" drive. I had to get an adapter to use it.
I did not experience any adversity during this process. I know some folks talk about having issues seating trunion bearing races and other things but I just took my time, cleaned the crap out of everything, and was slow and methodical. The most challenging part for me was getting the tone ring onto the new birfields. That took some time and in the end the right stroke with the brass hammer got the job done.
Don't be afraid of this job. Take your time.
Dilspec
SILVER Star
Stupid question.
Should the semi sphere's on the front axle have a thin coating of grease (from sweeping left/right)?
I picked up an 80 over the weekend and the spheres are dry but the cavity has ample grease. Where as my old 80 series has a thin coating of grease on the spheres. (I rebuilt them about a year and a half ago.)
Should the semi sphere's on the front axle have a thin coating of grease (from sweeping left/right)?
I picked up an 80 over the weekend and the spheres are dry but the cavity has ample grease. Where as my old 80 series has a thin coating of grease on the spheres. (I rebuilt them about a year and a half ago.)
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Has anyone measured the size of the ball bearings and replaced just those? If they are just stainless steel hardened ball bearings then they should be easy to replace. Can anyone confirm if these are truly round standard ball bearings?
Just completed both sides of my front axels, first major under taking and I must admit, thanks to this thread it was super easy job, did it over this past weekend and the majority of the time was spent cleaning and scrubbing parts 10hrs of cleaning every part including all hardware. The only other delay which should be added for those of us not geared for this type of work is not having the 24mm socket for the drain plug removal and not knowing the orientation of the crush gasket for the drain and fill plug( not sure if it matters?). Thanks mudders for all the information.
lp2k
Had a couple of drinks.. saw a couple of things
Hi everyone- hoping some of the SMEs who’ve done this job can review my kit below and let me know if I have everything in terms of gasket or need something. I won’t have much time when I start this to complete it and don’t want to waste time running back to the dealership and waiting for a part to be ordered which is 90% of the case when dealing with 80s. Thanks in advance
For some reason the rebuild kits never seem to include thrust washers for the outer wheel bearings.
Part# 90214-42030
They cost about $3 each and you need 2 of them. If I'm replacing wheel bearings, then I'm replacing the thrust washers and star washers.
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