Builds Found an Arabian FJ40

[Michael B]

Also track which push rod and lifter came from which hole. It is important that they all go back in their original place.

 

[Honger]

You don’t need to remove the crank gear; the plate has a hole in it for the gear to pass through.

You ABSOLUTELY DO need to turn the crank/ flywheel to top dead center so the alignment marks on the crank and cam synch BEFORE YOU PULL THE CAM.

Will it be straightforward to re-seal the plate with the gear still on the crank? Now that I look closer it seems it's pretty doable.

TDC for the crank is already set. Got that part!!

 

[FJBen]

@Honger I feel your pain. I have a leak on my timing cover that just started when I used a new oil brand after 2 years. Not really happy about that. Going to try and and change oil back to see if that "fixes" it, but if not I'm not going to enjoy fixing it. Especially since I just had the radiators and most of the front end out a few months ago. #ih8leaks

 

[airon23]

Also while you're in there be ready to remove these which could be a real PITA. Be ready to replace with the factory replacement hex bolts instead to avoid this next time.

They might get boogered up like this

A couple more pics for your reference

 

[65swb45]

In four decades of wrenching on cruisers I have never seen those screws before Aaron.

I learned something new today!

 

[airon23]

In four decades of wrenching on cruisers I have never seen those screws before Aaron.

I learned something new today!

I'll look back and see if I can see what the number for them was, but I'm pretty sure they were oem replacement for those flat head screws.

 

[pjohnson]

@airon23 @65swb45 @Honger
Here you go, post #97:

How not to build the 2F

Yes, the CR goes up directly the same % as the increase in displacement. So if the displacement is increased 10% on a Model T ford, the CR would go from 4.0 to 4.4 (phffft). Increase displacement 10% on a modern engine, the CR goes from 9.5 to 10.5.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[airon23]

Looked back at my post and pic for this

@airon23 @65swb45 @Honger
Here you go, post #97:

How not to build the 2F

Yes, the CR goes up directly the same % as the increase in displacement. So if the displacement is increased 10% on a Model T ford, the CR would go from 4.0 to 4.4 (phffft). Increase displacement 10% on a modern engine, the CR goes from 9.5 to 10.5.

forum.ih8mud.com

Yes you beat me to it.

 

[Honger]

Also while you're in there be ready to remove these which could be a real PITA. Be ready to replace with the factory replacement hex bolts instead to avoid this next time.
View attachment 2780950

They might get boogered up like this
View attachment 2780953
A couple more pics for your reference
View attachment 2780954
View attachment 2780955
View attachment 2780960

So helpful!! Thanks a bunch. Replacements ordered!

 

[Honger]

@airon23 @65swb45 @Honger
Here you go, post #97:

How not to build the 2F

Yes, the CR goes up directly the same % as the increase in displacement. So if the displacement is increased 10% on a Model T ford, the CR would go from 4.0 to 4.4 (phffft). Increase displacement 10% on a modern engine, the CR goes from 9.5 to 10.5.

forum.ih8mud.com

I’d forgotten this thread… epic read.

 

[Honger]

Hey @airon23 or @65swb45 or @Michael B or anyone else...

Do you do the OEM gasket sealant on both sides of the gasket for the end plate? Also for the timing cover cork gasket, right?

I read @Poser's thread in the FAQ for the side cover and oil pan gaskets, so know where to use the sealant there.

Would love more thoughts/input on best practices for preventing future leaks.

 

[Michael B]

I usually apply sealant to both sides of a gasket. But I have never worked in that particular area of a 2F before.

 

[airon23]

Hey @airon23 or @65swb45 or @Michael B or anyone else...

Do you do the OEM gasket sealant on both sides of the gasket for the end plate? Also for the timing cover cork gasket, right?

I read @Poser's thread in the FAQ for the side cover and oil pan gaskets, so know where to use the sealant there.

Would love more thoughts/input on best practices for preventing future leaks.

I can't now recall, but I want to say I used just a very light layer of the sealant like @Michael B mentioned.

 

[Honger]

I usually apply sealant to both sides of a gasket. But I have never worked in that particular area of a 2F before.

I can't now recall, but I want to say I used just a very light layer of the sealant like @Michael B mentioned.

So I went with a light application of OEM sealant on both sides. Really don't want to be this far into the 40's engine again anytime soon.

Another question... what about the fuel pump gasket? Same thing... a little bit of sealant. Or just paper gasket and go?

 

[Michael B]

I would use a little on both sides.

 

[Honger]

Starting to put things back together...

In the "While I'm in here" department I've upgraded to a gear reduction starter. I bought this a long time ago and just never got around to making the swap.

Contemplating popping in a new distributor. I have a new one in the box on my shelf of "just in case" parts. Nothing wrong with the old one. The new one is just so shiny!!

 

[Honger]

Got the 40 buttoned up last week... have been driving it again finally. Just in time for the gorgeous weather here.

The kids and I went to the park this past weekend and gave our puppy her first ride in the 40.

 

[Honger]

I put the truck up on dollies in July and started tearing into this... and basically had it off dollies and running again on October 9. I ended up with an out-of-town project that had me working nights and I changed jobs/companies in September. So the work on the 40 came in fits and starts.

Here it is all opened up... side cover came off and was cleaned up and repainted. All gasket/seal surfaces were cleaned and degreased. While it was all opened up I did a lot of cleaning.

Detaching the fuel line from carb to fuel pump revealed this...

PCV grommet was in bad shape.

One coolant line obviously in need of replacement.

Fuel hose to/from the filter and pump was also in bad shape.

So not only was I moving slow but I kept finding more "while I'm in here" work.

 

[Honger]

A slew of new parts were acquired... either from my stash the Toyota dealership here in town that gives our local club a discount.

New clamp for the distributor.

New nuts/unions for the fuel line.

I went ahead and bent a new fuel supply line from the pump to the carb. I use the existing one, plus trial-and-error, to get the right fit.

Grabbed new fuel hose from Belmetric.

And a new OEM fuel filter.

New gaskets for the side cover, oil pan, valve cover, and timing cover as well as block off plate.

 

[Honger]

"While I'm in here..."

I cleaned up and painted two of the coolant pipes.

I cleaned up and painted the fuel pump.

I polished up the valve cover and added overland metric hardware on the brackets.