For those with torsion bar questions (3 Viewers)

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Why did you "pull the wheels"?

Does that mean take the wheels off? If so, why?
Oops i was getting ahead of myself. I pulled the wheels at the same time because I was putting spacers on. I meant re-jacking, not re-pulling. I'll have to fix that in my post above.
 
Pics. Better to just pull the PDF - save it to print or reference while on the job

Mark the Bolt.png


PB Spray.png


TB Bolts.png


Measure.png
 
It can require quite a bit of effort for rust belt trucks. I soaked my nuts in PB (haha) for a few days leading up to it and it was still tough to turn mine with a breaker bar. I could do it with one hand and brace myself with the other but it wasn't a cake walk like some of you are lucky enough to encounter. Fresh bolts are much easier to turn.

Also, just to share my experience, I did not have to touch my passenger side bolt at all. For what ever reason my driver side was sagging really bad so it took probably 8 turns to get it even with PS. Still have some thread left if I decide I want to go to complete level but as of now I like the way it feels with the front a little lower than the rear.
Heck, even after a PB spray and using a breaker bar, I couldn't get the bolt on the driver's side to turn; had to borrow someone's impact gun to finish the job. For whatever reason, the passenger side bolt turned fairly easily, I only needed the breaker bar to budge it, and then finished the job off with a ratchet. I'm not sure where this anti-impact school of thought is coming from; as long as you mark the bolts and go slowly and stop to check how your bolt is turning every few seconds, you'll be fine.
 
I needed a bigger breaker lever on the driver's side than the passenger side. it was aproaching exhausting trying to compensate for the bumper and winch, but I got it done, sort of, with levers and muscles. (I maxed out my adjustment and will need to reindex my tbars to finish the job.)

As for air impact guns, I don't know if you can over torque these adjustment bolts? That is, once they are fully tightened, can you damage anything by torquing on them with a relentless air tool?
 
Stickied as "The Ultimate TB Thread" .... cool :cool:

:hillbilly::wrench:


Anyway we can get these pictures back up and working? That would make it the Ultimate TB Thread for me....
 
Thanks for all the info... my low buck LC had a bit of a gangster lean drivers side measured from top of rim lip to bottom edge of fender was 7" passenger side was 9.50" the pass side adjustment screw was about midway on it's travel while the drivers side was cranked tight... going from memory from reading these posts I re-indexed the drivers side bar over 1/4" I think it was 3 teeth... was all I could do to get the bolt back in the mount with the adjusting bolt backed out all I dared... once bolted up it took about 30 cranks on the bolt to get the front of the truck leveled out at about 9.75" on each side ... LOOKS so much better... so nice when someone else has shared their wisdom from experience
 
SWEET! Is it possible to get this PDF on the original post? I was on here reading up on my next to-do and luckily found your post.

thanks!
AFAIK, only a moderator can edit the OP.
 
Got my springs and looking to get the TB's cranked. With the way my bolts look. Will i be able to adjust them without a re-index?

IMG_1049[1].JPG


IMG_1050[1].JPG
 
Re-index is in your future ....

Not much left on that one adjuster- (which is maybe your driver side?)
 
Can someone confirm the adjusting nut size? The one shown in post #110 above. I believe it is 30mm but want to make sure before I go buy a socket. I need to bring my front end down a tad (maybe 3/4") before I get an alignment. I am sitting at 21" in the rear and 20.75" in the front and it feels a bit floaty on the highway. Thanks.
 
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....something about "holy thread revival batman" :flipoff2:

The pictures are back in (after I found an old drive with the images) but if they disappear again remember that the PDF exists:
 

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  • Gunney Torsion Bars.pdf
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....something about "holy thread revival batman" :flipoff2:

The pictures are back in (after I found an old drive with the images) but if they disappear again remember that the PDF exists:

Things are not going so well for me here. I bought a 2000 LX470 with a conversion from AHC. The car came to me off the transporter sitting really low up front. The torsion bolt was maxed out. So I re-indexed the torsion bar, wasn't difficult and I got about maybe 3 splines out of it. went to adjust the bolt and got a good amount of lift. After driving it it settled back down. I put 17 inch wheels on it-285-70. and the fender rubbed the tire on turns to the right. The passenger side was about an inch higher and it is fine. Re-indexed that side and all went great. Back to driver side, decide I need to re-index a bit more. This time the bolt got about halfway out and stopped. My impact driver would not turn it. So I tried to go tighter and it went about a turn and stopped. Got out my 1/2 inch torque wrench, and it exploded on me. (the wrench) Got out another 1/2 inch wrench and a pipe for my breaker bar and it broke my extension. It will not budge. The left still sits too low, and I cannot move the adjuster bolt. Went to a local shop who said that it seems it is definitely stuck beyond stuck, and that it seems it will break if they try any more. So they sent me off on my way. Now I just do not know what to do. I feel I first need to source a new bolt and housing, then take it back to a shop that can literally break it all off and I should be good to go. Advice???
 
Spray it good with Pb blaster every day for several days- try to tighten then loosen. Use a breaker bar for leverage.
 
Soak it in penetrant, use breaker bar with extension for leverage, perhaps try a torch for heat, plenty of elbow grease. have backup parts, sounds like it's gonna snap
 

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