Amy's Official Build & Tutorial Thread (1 Viewer)

[Gunney]

Amy 2.0’s Build Thread

Lets do this properly! ************

Bought:
- 27th Jan 2012
- 2006 VXR
- Mall Cruiser
- 130 000km
- Single owner (Lady), FSH, Dealer Maintained


Options that came with the vehicle:
- Cloth seats (not leather)
- Centre console Toyota fridge
- Rear AC
- Ambient lighting and backlight kick plates
- HID headlight upgrade
- Rear camera & park sensors
- Duel fuel tanks


Pictures in the Classifieds Add:









Pictures (1 Day Later):







- Side Stickers Removed
o Use a heat gun to warm up any stickers
o Pull them off slowly (don’t worry about residue)
o Use two pieces of soft tissue, one with petrol, one clean, alternate rubbing the residue, it will slowly gunk up and rub off, if you’re not winning get a new clean piece of “non-petrol” tissue, you have to change it often.
o Wash immediately, polish, wax area
- Seat Covers Fitted
- Wash and semi polish


Seat Covers Going On



Stickers Comming Off




POA:
Mechanical
- OME Rear Coils, Medium with 10cm coil spacers (2.5” Lift)
- OME Nitro Sport Shocks
- Extended Swaybar Links
- Extended Bumpstops
- DIY Diff Drop
- DIY Drop Straps
- 35” BFG AT II
- 1.5” Hub Centric Spacers
- Transmission Oil Cooler
- Re Route headlight sprayers to Oil Cooler and Radiator
- Under Body Spray
- Remove Underside Wheel Arch Trim


Cosmetic
- Air Horns + Additional hooter
- HID Upgrade
- White fog lights
- Carpet Clean
- Bucket Mats and Car Seat Covers
- Dynamat Insulation
- 360 Window Tint / Heat Film


Other
- Duel Battery Install
- Speaker Upgrade
- Roof Rack and LED light Bar
- Remove Resonator
- Scan Gauge II Install
- Marine GPS Mount





I will run this thread like the previous ones I have done on mud with set by step instructions where possible and lots and lots of pictures (this time hosted on Mud so they don’t disappear)


Stay tuned!

G

 

[Griffin]

followed your last uber meticulous thread and looking forward to seeing how this one turns out, good luck!

 

[Gunney]

Tint going on (40% on the sides and 10% on the front and back, all ceramic heat coat, the old fashioned one killed all GPS and Cell phone signal, new ceramic based is apparently ok)

They really pissed me off! When they put the windshield on water got in behind the dash, my rev gauge stopped working as did my oil pressure gauge. My Alarm light won’t go off and my hazards come on when the car is off. Everything is starting to sort its self out as it dries up but the alarm light is still on and the hazards are still flashing but I have been assured by a Toyota mechanic it will be fine as it dries up.

Ordered Today:
- Scan Gauge II
- Just Differential 1.25” Spacers
- Industrial Pack of Dynamat
- Blue sea systems fuse block

This Weekend:
- Roof Rack install and cut.
- Remove fender trim, seal and undercoat.
- Jack up the car and prep for suspension install.
- Remove swaybar and links, send links for extension. (Or I might hit up a scrap yard and just pick up two scrap links to extend.)

Still to make up my mind on:
- Either 2x22” light bars from ELS or 1x40” light bar from Trail Worthy Fab. I just have to measure the roof rack and see what fits best. (I obviously WANT to support our local supplier )

 

[Gunney]

And so it begins! (sorry, nothing very exciting or educational today)
I got lots of **** for posting unsafe pictures last time so here is my safety disclaimer

1. Chock all the wheels (in par, hand break on)

2. I keep the jack in place as well as using jack stands

3. Wheels under the LCA just encase

The objective today was to prep the front wheel wells for the dune trips and camping in the neer future. The 35’s eat the inner wheel fender plastic so I planned to take them off and coat all the metal surfaces with rubberised undercoat.

I may only be 25 but with a herniated disk and 2 back surgeries I have to use a cheater bar on EVERYTHING. Just make sure you loosen the wheel lugs when the vehicle is still on the ground.

FYI – This is what a 3” lift would look like… can’t wait for the OME to arrive.

This is the plastic wheel fender that I planned to remove

It’s held on by plastic fasteners, just insert a flat screwdriver and twist, they will pop out.

Once the crews to the rear are out you have to remove the platic clips the crews go into. Use a screwdriver and press in hard on the sides.

This is what they look like.

And this is what was behind the plastic trim, remember to wash in here to prevent build up and an inevitable rust problem!

Under the plastic is the antenna motor and air intake. I need to get a snorkel or my tyres are going to just throw endless dust and sand into the intake so my plastic actually then went back on once I had cleaned out everything.

Then it was time to prep and paint. Simple wash with a dish washing detergent (a great de-greaser) and a pressure washer. Then 3-4 coats or rubberised undercoat.

I need to do the front skid plate tomorrow but it will require a wire brush first on the rusty spots.

 

[Gunney]

While I had the spray out I took apart my Osram LED Dot-its and sprayed them. (they come in a metallic blue or orange that I didn’t like)

They are very simple to clip apart and back together.

They have a magnetic back that lets you put them anywhere on the cruiser. I also used the velcrow pads to mount them on the hatch for camping light. If I think they are going to get damaged on the hatch with the boot packed full I just take them off and throw them in the door pocket Quick, simple, easy.

I also had a look at the "ambient lighting" inthe fenders and on the B-pillars as well as the kick plates, they look VERY factory fitted. anyone ever seen them before on a VXR?

 

[Griffin]

Wait, what? Those kick plate lights are factory or something you fabbed? Never seen those before, wish I had some.

 

[Gunney]

I donno?

I didnt make them, maybe they are aftermarket fitted by the previouse owner?

I love them, very G55 AMG

 

[Shane Drummond]

Nice Rig, looking forward to reading the rest of your build, agree totally with the snorkel, my turbo is worn from dust mixing with the oil in the turbo, makes a paste that slowly wears down the blades... Turbo guy said eventually my turbo will spin so fast it will explode because ECU still demands same boost of pressure even if turbo is only 90% efficient, so turbo just runs faster... So when the wallet agrees I will replace turbo & get a snorkel so it doesn't happen again...

 

[mgilvan]

Subscribed , I love ur build thread, I love the last one

 

[Gunney]

Today was a bit more productive.

DIY Trans Oil Cooler

I went out to one of the local scrap yards and picked up an oil cooler, anything from a largish truck will work, this one is from a Nissan pickup.

I washed off the oil cooler, checked it for leaks and then straightened out a few of the bent fins with a toothpick.

Remove the front grill. 3 screws on top and then two plastic tabs down below that you have to push forward for the grill to pop out.

This is the space I had to work with, the big empty gap on the right sometimes has an oil cooler on the US models with the towing package. (Red=Mounting Points. Green=Route Hoses Through)

With a few longer screws and an old bracket from my projector mount and it was good to go. (I know its upside down but I dont think it matters too much, I will soon know if its not wiorking properly, I need to get the new codes in my scan guage and then report back on trans temps)

Extended hoses are secured with cable ties and clamps.

Underneath you remove the short hose and fit the new hoses, this pus the oil cooler AFTER the radiator as the radiator will run at the same temp as the engine but the cooler will run colder.

There must be a vacuum or having the front of the 100 jacked up drained the radiator because when I pulled the hose only about 100ml of fluid came out. I will still have a trans oil change done before I do any big drives. (Where do you fill it up on the new 100’s??? My old one had a filler tube.)

Checked for leaks, rant the gearbox through all the gears. I will take it for a drive and then check for leaks again.

 

[Gunney]

Sound Insulation
Last night half of the Dynamat went in.
The back of the 100 is very easy to take apart. A few tips here and there.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/picture.php?albumid=3245&pictureid=25775

The tail gate slide plate has to come out first, once the 5 screws are out you need to pull up hard along the length of it as it is still held down by clips, then when the clips are free you have to pull up hard in the middle for the ends to slide free. Everything else just unscrews. When the time comes to remove the side trim slide your fingers into where the seatbelt disappears and start to pull out towards you, the panel will start to pop free.
When removing the right hand side panel, once all the clips are free you have to pull the bottom out first as the top will get snagged. The left hand panel just comes straight out. (be careful of the cigarette plug wires) Red Arrows show only a few of the clip locations.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/picture.php?albumid=3245&pictureid=25776

(Red Arrows=Leave the floor brackets on the car. Green Arrow = Analog TV reciever... soon to be ripped out)
https://forum.ih8mud.com/picture.php?albumid=3245&pictureid=25780

when removing the middle seats just pull in the direction of the red arrows to remove the trim and undo the bolts underneath, its far easyier to reinstall if you leave the floor brackets on the car.
(Green Arrow=Put scres and bolts back in thier holes.)
https://forum.ih8mud.com/picture.php?albumid=3245&pictureid=25777

Never in my life have I seen such a clean 7 year old 4x4. Apart from some light dust a a tiny bit of vacuuming it was pristine.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/picture.php?albumid=3245&pictureid=25778

I was disappointed as I thought from the sound that there would be very little under felt, there is however a substantial layer of under felt and it’s still noisy, I will have to double it up.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/picture.php?albumid=3245&pictureid=25782

(On the issue of under felt getting wet/damp/smelly. 1 – I live in a desert, 2. If you don’t glue it down but rather just add in another loose layer if it ever gets wet you just pull it out and dry it or throw it away.)
https://forum.ih8mud.com/picture.php?albumid=3245&pictureid=25781

The Dynamat went on the wheel arches (VERY surprised to see NO sound insulation on these what so ever) on the rear steps, in the rear quarter panels and in/on the tail gate.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/picture.php?albumid=3245&pictureid=25783

Be careful with these little inserts, I broke one of the tabs
https://forum.ih8mud.com/picture.php?albumid=3245&pictureid=25779

When you knock on the panels you can hear the difference, the weight of the mat makes the previous tail gate clunk sound like the door of a Mercedes when it closes, whhhump . Im not sure how much of a difference it will make but it will unfortunately be a week until I am able to test it. The remainder of the Dynamat will go in the doors tonight, 1 sheet per door, and I will put another layer of under felt on the floor and on the inner plastic fenders.

All the little bits in the enrance hall. Good thing im home alone for 2 weeks (They will get a scrub before going back in, as will the carpet.)

 

[hks3sgte]

Should have kept the stickers. You going to sell this one for a Hummer, also?

 

[Gunney]

Should have kept the stickers. You going to sell this one for a Hummer, also?

the stickers are guly as ****

and yes, one day when she is all built up and im bored ill probably sell it for a Porsche Ceyenne just to ***** off Mud Members

 

[hks3sgte]

At least you're entertaining. Hook me up with an OEM Pintle Hook and I'll be a happy guy.

 

[Mxndrnks]

yes, one day when she is all built up and im bored ill probably sell it for a Porsche Ceyenne just to ***** off Mud Members

Well until then....great to have you back providing excellent write-ups!

 

[Gunney]

Additional sound insulation being cut and added, water repellent and fire retardant carpet underlay.

Rear Sway bar links coming out, the tiny size 12 nut on top was impossible to get to with a socket and it WILL strip if you try use anything else so I took the upper bracket off to remove it. They went to the work shop yesterday to be lengthened by 50mm.
The rear bump stops also came out, they will receive a 2” square tube spacer and longer bolts, not to stop shock over compression but to stop the 35’s eating my fenders.

Front shocks and bump stops came out. Front bump stops will receive 10mm spacer washers, I will see how effective the 10mm spacers are otherwise ill order some Timberins.

I lost my strap wrench so I just used vice grips, not the best option and wont work for the reinstall of new shocks.

The magical and VERY necessary size 22 ratcheting spanner for shock removal and install. (don’t bother trying the rear shocks without one.

Full suspension install writeup on sunday when its all done.

 

[paflytyer]

I got lots of **** for posting unsafe pictures last time so here is my safety disclaimer

You should also add a disclaimer about working on your truck barefooted!!!! I know its hot and all, but something covering your feet is probably in order.

Looking forward to this thread.

 

[Gunney]

You should also add a disclaimer about working on your truck barefooted!!!! I know its hot and all, but something covering your feet is probably in order.

Looking forward to this thread.

I’m from South Africa.... what are these "shoe" things you speak of?

Hey I’m wearing a nomex flight suit so the rest of me is nice and safe if my 100 spontaneously combusts.

 

[Gunney]

I messed up this weekend.

I took hundreds of phots only to realise this morning that the card for the camera had been in my laptop the whole time



Anyway, the whole suspension install thing has been covered a 100 times and I’ve updated all the old pictures in my original torsion bar thread.


This weekend
- OME Nitro charger Sport installed
- OME medium rear springs with 10mm packers installed
- Front torsion bars cranked
- Extended swaybar links installed
- Bump stop spacers
- Interior back in
- Door panels dynamatted

Result, she went from 19” hub to fender on the front to 22”. 20” hub to fender on the rear to 23.5”. (Both tanks full) so approximately 3” of lift all round with the correct 1” stick bug and 60mm of droop on the front.


The ride is also MUCH quieter and there is a noticeable difference in the audio quality with the doors done.



I will take some propper pictures when the spacers go on and the 35's are fitted.

 

[2000UZJ]

Glad to see you back! Can't wait to see this build