FJ60 Rear Brake Drums vs. Discs

[InfiniteBPS]

I could use some advice on which way I should go with the rear brakes on my 1984 FJ60. I have never been overly impressed with the FJ60's braking ability. The parking brake barely holds the vehicle enough to pass VA inspection. I feel if all components were in top working order then braking distance would be better. The rear left drum had locked up moving the FJ60 around my house (nice that it happened at 2MPH).
My existing plans for the FJ60 are:
*I am awaiting the delivery of a 2"-3" OME deluxe kit with heavy front/medium rear springs.
*The current 32" tires will be replaced with either 33" or 35" tires.
*Desmog the original 2F.
*Service the front and rear axles.
*Repair, replace or upgrade the brakes.

Should I simply replace affected drum brake components? Rough Estimate $250.00 using USA or Aisin parts.
or
Perform drum to disc brake conversion with the addition of a transfer case parking brake? Estimated $900.00 using conversion bracket/parts with GM calipers/pads & TSM 4066-MB3($299.95+shipping) for parking brake. TSM stated that i would need the 4066($399.95+shipping) for my 84 FJ60 because of clearance issues. After reading several posts on IH8MUDD it seems everyone has used the 4066-MB3. One guy even modified the 4066-MB3 to increase clearance for his application I believe it was on a 40series though.

Also I checked the VA State Inspection law and found the following:
19VAC30-70-80. Service brakes. This section doesn't state anything about rejection due to aftermarket components so it looks like I am good there.
19VAC30-70-90. Brakes: emergency, parking, or holding; batteries. This section does state reject if not "of the type installed as original standard factory equipment for the vehicle on which it is installed."

Has anyone in VA encountered issues with performing upgrades using aftermarket equipment in VA?

I have considered side stepping the VA inspection by getting ANTIQUE plates for my FJ60 but that mileage per is somewhat limiting.

Thank you in advance for any advice, opinions or guidance

 

[roadstr6]

Poorly performing FJ60 drums is not a super common complaint. The FJ60 drums work fine when in good working order and adjusted properly...even my parking brake works great. The 60 parking brake system, while far from perfect, is worlds ahead of the one on the 40 series trucks. You should be able to get new cylinders at your local NAPA for $20-ish each and a set of shoes for $50-ish. Of course AISIN stuff will be pricier (and probably last longer). You need to look deeper into your braking issue before you write off the drums. Poor parking brake performance may be due to rusty or corroded bell cranks. Take them off, clean them up, grease and re-install. Replace the shoes just because. Check the cylinders for leaks. Replace them if you need them. Adjust the rear brakes per the FSM. Check the rear axle seals. The seals can fail and grease down your shoes with 80/90. Replacing the seals is not as simple as it sounds but is a pretty straightforward deal. A common cause for blown seals is a stopped up diff vent tube. Check yours and make sure it is venting. Poor rear braking is not generally the result of one thing but the accumulation of a lot of little issues that will need to be addressed no matter if you do a disc swap or not.

 

[lovetoski]

I have an 87, with rear drums, front forerunner calipers, 35" tires. I've resto'd the rear drums as roadstr6 describes. I also ended up replacing the parking brake cable. The parking brake works fine around town, and for mild wheeling trails. For steep hills/trails it's not enough. I am intrigued by the TSM transfer case brake because you might have a better parking brake when 4 wheeling. But for on road, I think the stock setup is fine. Also, I can lock up all four tires on dry pavement, so in that sense I'm not sure rear discs buys me anything over a properly functioning stock system. The rear upgrade that makes the most sense to me is to install an 80 series axle. You get discs, drum parking brake, full float axle.

 

[gregnash]

Poorly performing FJ60 drums is not a super common complaint. The FJ60 drums work fine when in good working order and adjusted properly...even my parking brake works great. The 60 parking brake system, while far from perfect, is worlds ahead of the one on the 40 series trucks. You should be able to get new cylinders at your local NAPA for $20-ish each and a set of shoes for $50-ish. Of course AISIN stuff will be pricier (and probably last longer). You need to look deeper into your braking issue before you write off the drums. Poor parking brake performance may be due to rusty or corroded bell cranks. Take them off, clean them up, grease and re-install. Replace the shoes just because. Check the cylinders for leaks. Replace them if you need them. Adjust the rear brakes per the FSM. Check the rear axle seals. The seals can fail and grease down your shoes with 80/90. Replacing the seals is not as simple as it sounds but is a pretty straightforward deal. A common cause for blown seals is a stopped up diff vent tube. Check yours and make sure it is venting. Poor rear braking is not generally the result of one thing but the accumulation of a lot of little issues that will need to be addressed no matter if you do a disc swap or not.

@roadstr6 is correct. When I first got my truck there were multiple brake issues, some of which the PO did not tell me about or did not know about. The truck was "safe enough" to get me from UT to NV without much issue. However, looking at it now I would probably have not done what I did. Most of all my main issue was that the e-brake was not functioning, this was due to corrosion and once cleaned and repaired it has worked flawlessly since. I would caution against going for the upgrade as while it sounds nice, it is just one more factor that you have to think about when the time comes for servicing or troubleshooting. When I first bought my truck the e-brake could barely hold it in my driveway with a short 2* incline, now I have been able to go wheeling with it and have it hold on a very steep incline that would have originally sent me rolling.

These trucks are all about good maintenance, since this truck is new to you I would go through EVERYTHING and start replacing and refreshing items to the FSM (see my sig if you don't have them). From there tackle continuing problems as necessary, and where possible replace with OEM parts.

 

[HemiAlex]

A local friend @mk4leo had discs on the back of his 60. Maybe he will chime in.

I'd rebuild the drums with the best stuff, IE: Aisin, advics and so on...and leave it be. I think we forget how used some of these trucks are and we don't know what it feels like to be working like they did when they rolled off the showroom floor...which was more than adequate for the power they make.

 

[SteveH]

New rear brake shoes (linings are thicker) go a long way toward making a parking brake work as well as it should. I got non-Toyota shoes (good ones) on Rock Auto for super cheap ($14/axle set) and I bought a brake hardware kit for $6 or so. My FJ62 parking brake now supplies a death grip to the rear wheels. You should inspect/grease/adjust everything per the FSM, of course.

 

[klinetime574]

The only time my e-brake got weak was when my brake shoes were completely worn out. New brake shoes and the e-brake holds the 60 anywhere. Servicing the drum brakes is very important for e-brake functionality.

The front brakes are more important in overall stopping power, so if you aren't impressed by the brakes then you need to upgrade the fronts and service the rears. There are kits to install larger rotors and calipers on our axles. It takes a little machine work, but it sounds worth it to me. If you don't want to jump into the front brake modification then just get everything to spec. That's the way my FJ60 is and it does just fine.

 

[InfiniteBPS]

Poorly performing FJ60 drums is not a super common complaint. The FJ60 drums work fine when in good working order and adjusted properly...even my parking brake works great. The 60 parking brake system, while far from perfect, is worlds ahead of the one on the 40 series trucks. You should be able to get new cylinders at your local NAPA for $20-ish each and a set of shoes for $50-ish. Of course AISIN stuff will be pricier (and probably last longer). You need to look deeper into your braking issue before you write off the drums. Poor parking brake performance may be due to rusty or corroded bell cranks. Take them off, clean them up, grease and re-install. Replace the shoes just because. Check the cylinders for leaks. Replace them if you need them. Adjust the rear brakes per the FSM. Check the rear axle seals. The seals can fail and grease down your shoes with 80/90. Replacing the seals is not as simple as it sounds but is a pretty straightforward deal. A common cause for blown seals is a stopped up diff vent tube. Check yours and make sure it is venting. Poor rear braking is not generally the result of one thing but the accumulation of a lot of little issues that will need to be addressed no matter if you do a disc swap or not.

Just had a look at the rear drums and found the most brake dust buildup I have ever seen. I attempted to retrieve my phone to snap a pic but gravity kicked in. No signs of leaks on either side. The shoes are low, passenger side has a chunk missing out of one so definitely needs replacing.

 

[gregnash]

Betcha that once you replace the shoes you will have lots more braking force!

 

[roadstr6]

Great news! New shoes, check/lube the bell cranks. Adjust everything to spec and see what you've got then. I have a feeling you'll be happy.

 

[InfiniteBPS]

I have an 87, with rear drums, front forerunner calipers, 35" tires. I've resto'd the rear drums as roadstr6 describes. I also ended up replacing the parking brake cable. The parking brake works fine around town, and for mild wheeling trails. For steep hills/trails it's not enough. I am intrigued by the TSM transfer case brake because you might have a better parking brake when 4 wheeling. But for on road, I think the stock setup is fine. Also, I can lock up all four tires on dry pavement, so in that sense I'm not sure rear discs buys me anything over a properly functioning stock system. The rear upgrade that makes the most sense to me is to install an 80 series axle. You get discs, drum parking brake, full float axle.

The TSM tcb would be great parking brake when wheeling as long as you got a wheels on the ground. It is good to know that you can still lock up all 4 35" tires with drums in the rear. Good note on the 80 series axle.

 

[InfiniteBPS]

@roadstr6 is correct. When I first got my truck there were multiple brake issues, some of which the PO did not tell me about or did not know about. The truck was "safe enough" to get me from UT to NV without much issue. However, looking at it now I would probably have not done what I did. Most of all my main issue was that the e-brake was not functioning, this was due to corrosion and once cleaned and repaired it has worked flawlessly since. I would caution against going for the upgrade as while it sounds nice, it is just one more factor that you have to think about when the time comes for servicing or troubleshooting. When I first bought my truck the e-brake could barely hold it in my driveway with a short 2* incline, now I have been able to go wheeling with it and have it hold on a very steep incline that would have originally sent me rolling.

These trucks are all about good maintenance, since this truck is new to you I would go through EVERYTHING and start replacing and refreshing items to the FSM (see my sig if you don't have them). From there tackle continuing problems as necessary, and where possible replace with OEM parts.

Your statement about good maintenance is backed by what I have already experienced thus far. It has been awhile since I have had any issues. I definitely prefer OEM over aftermarket and I have been subconsicously ignoring the fact that one options puts GM parts on a Toyota. I am fortunate that the first owners had purchased the FJ60 in upstate New York they bought to FSM for the engine & body. When I inherited the FJ60 from my friend (he had been dated the daughter of PO) I was shocked to find the FSM buried in a box among other misc parts that were taking off or fallen off. Thx

 

[InfiniteBPS]

A local friend @mk4leo had discs on the back of his 60. Maybe he will chime in.

I'd rebuild the drums with the best stuff, IE: Aisin, advics and so on...and leave it be. I think we forget how used some of these trucks are and we don't know what it feels like to be working like they did when they rolled off the showroom floor...which was more than adequate for the power they make.

That is a good point regarding the power the truck makes right now the stock setup was designed that way. I am trying to be conscious of what I want to do the FJ60 and spend money in that direction. That being said I don't have plans to upgrade engine any time soon.

 

[roadstr6]

The 80 series axle sounds real good but just be aware that 80s are coil sprung. You would have some work to do building leaf spring perches and such to adapt one to a 60 series truck. It is doable but not a bolt-on swap. Another thing to be wary of with regard to brake upgrades is the master cylinder and booster. Upgrading the brakes at the four corners usually necessitates a MC/booster upgrade as well. The system is designed to move a specific amount of fluid. If you add bigger calipers you will need more push from the MC or else your brakes will be spongy. My advice is to get the factory system up to spec first, then if you decide you need more, get out your wallet and go at it.

 

[InfiniteBPS]

I got my weekend mapped out now. new shoes, brake fluid flush, check/lube bell cranks, adjust & test. I still haven't seen a smoking gun on why one drum locked up. I am proceeding with the theory that there is debris in one of the lines or wheel cylinders.

Definitely seen signs that this truck started its life in upstate NY. The rear section C channel is rough but not gone.

Many Thanks to ALL the comments and advice!

 

[Willard]

On mine (have not done VA inspection yet due to rust holes in the floor needing welding), the PO had the entire brake system redone.
new rotors, pads rear brakes lines MC etc.
not only does the Ebrake work (it is hard to move the 60 with it on) but the brake will throw you through the windshield if you did not have your seatbelt on.
Something is not right with yours.

 

[roadstr6]

I got my weekend mapped out now. new shoes, brake fluid flush, check/lube bell cranks, adjust & test. I still haven't seen a smoking gun on why one drum locked up. I am proceeding with the theory that there is debris in one of the lines or wheel cylinders.

Definitely seen signs that this truck started its life in upstate NY. The rear section C channel is rough but not gone.

Many Thanks to ALL the comments and advice!

Corroded bell crank could have locked one wheel via the parking brake. Sounds like you are on the right track. Check that axle vent tube as well. Good luck!

 

[roadstr6]

One last tid bit of advice and I'll leave it with you. The bell cranks are basically a hinge with one part being cast aluminum and the other being steel. Salt, mud, road grime, etc. tends to find its way into the rubber boots and wreaks havoc. Having dissimilar metals in there makes the situation worse. You may have to take the cranks totally apart, pins and all, and de-rust them. Grease and reinstall. Good luck!

 

[Output Shaft]

Gotta remember that the braking system on the FJ60 was designed for 28" tires (225/75R15). Bigger tires always increase stopping distances.

 

[Tapage]

I have runner SW13 calipers in front with eldo calipers in the rear plust the TSM t-case paking brake .. ( hydro booster and other stuff on it )

few notes ..

1. rear disc / calipers are great upgrade to the braking capacity of my ( your might vary ) 60 = Tencha ..

2. Don't buy calipers with parking brake from TSM, e-brake never works properly

3. t-case parking brake it's not an e-brake .. it's a " parking " brake .. TSM " kit " don't have the new shorter cable you will need.

4. little love to your braking system really helps ( lines, fluid disc, pads etc )