FJ60 power steering pump rebuild question (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jun 29, 2012
Threads
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Messages
34
Location
AZ
Greetings, I just rebuilt my 1984 FJ60 power steering pump with the kit from Cruiser Corps, it includes the shaft seal and o-rings.

I'm now leaking fluid (ATF) past the o-ring on the flow control spring seat, held in by a new snap ring. The bore is extremely clean and feels true and undamaged. I'll try another o-ring in case the one I installed is faulty. If the leak persists, are there any tricks to get this part to seal better? Is there any reason why this part of the pump isn't just capped off, for example... tapping the bore and threading in a plug?
(I'm attempting to attach screen shots from other member's posts to show the parts I'm referring to).

Thanks a million for any tips!

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Here are a few pictures from my rebuild to show how far I took it. I machined a new end shaft bushing out of bronze, since mine was worn (I later cut in the angled oil control channels like the OEM unit). I cleaned and detailed each piece before re-assembly and put everything back in the exact order, which is why I'm surprised I have the leak at the spring seat. Sure hope to get this leak free soon!

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Not attempting to burst a bubble but I had researched rebuilding a 60 pump and found here that they don't take a rebuild well. Seems more often folks lean toward a 62 pump. Someone even just mentioned this a few days ago and I asked if they are easily swapable but I missed the answer if one was given.
What you did looks great but I'm definetly not one to give advice other than what I see. Hope you get it figured out. GL.
 
Yep,
I've never heard of a "successful" rebuild of the FJ60 PS pump that has lasted for long. There's a bushing which needs to be replaced that's unavailable. Toyota never made it available because they wanted to sell pumps, not parts.

You should count yourself lucky that it leaks right now when you have a chance to replace the whole pump with a new one while the truck is in your garage instead of finding out 500 miles from home out in the boonies with Dextron sprayed all over the inside of the engine compartment.
 
Well, since you made the unavailable bushing yourself, and assuming all the tolerances were good, the only thing to leak at that spot is the O ring. It's been a long time since I had one of those pumps apart, so I don't remember how deep in the bore that O ring was but maybe it got nicked on install?

FWIW, mine leaked so I ended up buying a new OE pump.

I once read on another forum where someone was successful using a little RTV (Hylomar?) in conjunction with the O-rings, but I've never tried it. Never heard of tapping or capping that bore, but you've got nothing to lose by trying!

Nice pix on the tear down.

GL, and let us know how it works out.
 
Hi, I see no reason why that area can't be capped. You did a good job on your bushing it looks like. Anything made by Toyota can be machined here if given enough time and skill. I've had quite a few bad o rings lately Honda, Toyota, etc. Mike
 
Good news, it was a simple fix. The flow control spring seat o-ring was defective. The rebuild kit I bought fortunately came with an extra o-ring and it solved the problem. The first one I installed was deformed a bit on its inner diameter. My pump is now leak free and works nice and quiet.

Thanks a ton for your help fellas!
 
Good news, it was a simple fix. The flow control spring seat o-ring was defective. The rebuild kit I bought fortunately came with an extra o-ring and it solved the problem. The first one I installed was deformed a bit on its inner diameter. My pump is now leak free and works nice and quiet.

Thanks a ton for your help fellas!
Confriggengrats! NOW, start making a bunch of those bushings and selling them and bam, you've solved a bunch of our 60 pump issues!
I'll be first in line!
 
Good news, it was a simple fix. The flow control spring seat o-ring was defective. The rebuild kit I bought fortunately came with an extra o-ring and it solved the problem. The first one I installed was deformed a bit on its inner diameter. My pump is now leak free and works nice and quiet.

Thanks a ton for your help fellas!
I too,would buy one of those bushings. I have a perfect candidate sitting in my garage. Nice attention to detail:cheers:.
 
I too,would buy one of those bushings. I have a perfect candidate sitting in my garage. Nice attention to detail:cheers:.

I would too, but this guy has 32 post in the last 6+ years and hasn't been on mud in over a year. But if he shows back up, I'm all for his bushing.
 
I would too, but this guy has 32 post in the last 6+ years and hasn't been on mud in over a year. But if he shows back up, I'm all for his bushing.
Yeah his name wouldn’t tag appropriately so I had to wonder if he was gone too. Bummer.
 
damn. if someone started making those bushings they could sell tons of them...
 
Awesome job. One of the only rebuilds I've seen that I think might actually last. Nice job.

That being said, I still feel that the Saginaw pump is just a better unit.
 
During this period of no work, I'm getting to projects that have been on the back burner. One is the power steering pump.

@dpcustoms what was your spec for the shaft and bearing tolerance?

My specs was .001" of clearance.
The bearing seams like it's got some chadder when I feel it.
Shaft= 0.8655
Bearing= 0.8665

IMG_1163.jpg
 
A bit of extra info. I just rebuilt a pump and had problems building pressure. When I took of the return line to the pump, I got lots of fluid. I took the pump apart again and found I had the cut outs on the inner slipper facing left, not right as in the picture above.
Also a little trick to get the slipper and springs in: Lay the outer slipper down with the holes facing up. Install 4 springs into the holes. Gently place the inner slipper on top. Carefully lift up the assembly with your thumb and index finger by the ends . Steady the assembly by holding it front to back with your other hand. Move your end to end fingers around to front to back trying to keep the springs straight. Find the larger hole in the pump body (the smallest lobe of the cam) and insert the slipper assembly in at an angle outer slipper 1st a couple of mm. Carefully squeeze the assembly and push it in quickly with your thumb. It took me a few tries to get this down, but I got it all back together in a few minutes. Make sure you have a clean area to find the springs if they pop out as you assemble. I did this in my living room to pre disaster the assembly and loss of parts
 
Funny thing…. I am reading this 6 1/2 years later and I have the exact same problem.. even while sitting in the garage a few days, there is a pool of dexron on the floor. As mentioned I am hoping that a new o-ring will cure this leak.
 

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