FJ60 Brake Booster options (1 Viewer)

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Yea...I was there when Matt hit the tree. That situation was a combo of a lot of things.

I did not know that the 60s didn't have a LSPV. How about that.

But yes, engine braking on manuals does help. Not so sure about the weight distribution part of it though.

The FJ60 has a proportioning valve located under the master cylinder, but no LSPV. The FJ62 does not have the prop valve like the 60, instead it has the LSPV at the rear axle.

I didn’t understand the weight distribution issue either, but my buddy went into some differential equation stuff that was way over my head. I think it comes down to the amount of friction and force that’s distributed to the engine/transmission vs brakes.

I had an issue in my transfercase and rear pinion and was putting it in neural to lessen the back load upon deceleration. There was a bunch of chattering in the bearings if I didn’t do that. His explanation was way more detailed, but essentially I was making the brakes do more work than they needed to and putting myself in a dangerous situation should a line blow out with the added force applied to the brake system.

I am no automotive engineering expert but in my long-term experience in driving Land Cruisers this sounds like uninformed gibberish from this "expert."
 
if you're just replacing the booster and not the MC, you don't have to open the brake system or disconnect any brake lines. there's enough flex in lines to gently move the MC out of the way as long as they're in good condition after freeing them from the firewall clips. the hardest thing in my experience was setting the adjustment on the booster shaft, but a rigid ruler and the depth gauge on a caliper (the part that sticks out from the end of the scale) is a big help
 
The FJ60 has a proportioning valve located under the master cylinder, but no LSPV. The FJ62 does not have the prop valve like the 60, instead it has the LSPV at the rear axle.



I am no automotive engineering expert but in my long-term experience in driving Land Cruisers this sounds like uninformed gibberish from this "expert."
I dunno, the guy went to school paid by Saab for mechanical engineering. He certainly is the most knowledgeable mechanic I’ve ever met. Just my two cents.
 
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Ignore this video. A 60 series booster replacement is not that bad. Some under the dash contortions and aligning brake pedal connection but otherwise not bad.
Does the brake rod need to be adjusted if swapping an 80 or 4runner booster in? If just replacing stock for stock, are any adjustments necessary?
 
I dunno, the guy went to school paid by Sabb for mechanical engineering. He certainly is the most knowledgeable mechanic I’ve ever met. Just my two cents.

Can he spell "Saab" though? :hillbilly:
 
The FJ60 has a proportioning valve located under the master cylinder, but no LSPV. The FJ62 does not have the prop valve like the 60, instead it has the LSPV at the rear axle.



I am no automotive engineering expert but in my long-term experience in driving Land Cruisers this sounds like uninformed gibberish from this "expert."
Here’s some “uniformed gibberish” for you if you care to become more educated as opposed to being an arse. Removing the engine braking from the equation does in fact change the weight distribution on a manual vehicle like a land cruiser that is already top heavy and it is a very important factor in safety.

 
if you're just replacing the booster and not the MC, you don't have to open the brake system or disconnect any brake lines. there's enough flex in lines to gently move the MC out of the way as long as they're in good condition after freeing them from the firewall clips. the hardest thing in my experience was setting the adjustment on the booster shaft, but a rigid ruler and the depth gauge on a caliper (the part that sticks out from the end of the scale) is a big help
I pulled the bad one today. Not very hard at all. Now I'm rolling the dice at the parts store. At least I didn't have to pay for it up front. I ordered a 94 4runner booster without ABS. tomorrow when it comes in I'll have my old booster to compare and make sure the snout is the same and will fit the master cylinder, the bolt pattern is right on both sides, the gasket will fit over the new one, the threads are the same and the nuts will go on. I bought some 3/8 fuel hose that looks like a close match to the soft vacuum line/s.

The shaft you are talking about is the one that goes in the master cylinder? I thought that is what the H tool was for. And in the video I posted they show how they counted the threads to set the receiver on the shaft that pins to the brake pedal. I guess a digital caliper would be better here.
 
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I pulled the bad one today. Not very hard at all. Now I'm rolling the dice at the parts store. At least I didn't have to pay for it up front. I ordered a 94 4runner booster without ABS. tomorrow when it comes in I'll have my old booster to compare and make sure the snout is the same and will fit the master cylinder, the bolt pattern is right on both sides, the gasket will fit over the new one, the threads are the same and the nuts will go on. I bought some 3/16 fuel hose that looks like a close match to the soft vacuum line/s.

The shaft you are talking about is the one that goes in the master cylinder? I thought that is what the H tool was for. And in the video I posted they show how they counted the threads to set the receiver on the shaft that pins to the brake pedal. I guess a digital caliper would be better here.
I agree with measuring the distance rather than counting the threads. If you were reinstalling the same unit it would make sense to count threads, but it’s the positioning of the receiver that matters so you have the correct travel distance in the pedal and you are able to fully actuate the master piston. Adjusting it to the correct specs according to the fsm is not difficult really. It’s just a tight space when it’s in the dash.
 
I pulled the bad one today. Not very hard at all. Now I'm rolling the dice at the parts store. At least I didn't have to pay for it up front. I ordered a 94 4runner booster without ABS. tomorrow when it comes in I'll have my old booster to compare and make sure the snout is the same and will fit the master cylinder, the bolt pattern is right on both sides, the gasket will fit over the new one, the threads are the same and the nuts will go on. I bought some 3/16 fuel hose that looks like a close match to the soft vacuum line/s.

The shaft you are talking about is the one that goes in the master cylinder? I thought that is what the H tool was for. And in the video I posted they show how they counted the threads to set the receiver on the shaft that pins to the brake pedal. I guess a digital caliper would be better here.

This tool Power Brake Booster Tool - https://www.classicchevy.com/power-brake-booster-tool-57-397920-1.html?adpos=1o5&scid=scplp57-397920-1&sc_intid=57-397920-1&gclsrc=aw.ds makes adjusting the push rod on the booster simple. I think the nut size is 7 mm and needle nose vice grips help with holding the push rod steady while adjusting the nut.
 
unfortunately City Racer site is down for spring break and I'm trying to get this back together so I don't incur another state inspection fee. do you know exactly what booster they sell (brand name and part #) I mean is something I can pick up off rock auto...like cardone or off brand or is it a Toyota OE part for the international market that I should try and get because it's going to last longer.
Check with Red Line in Colorado. I just bought there booster, FJ80 master cylinder for my big brake kit I got from them for my FJ40.
 
Master Power Brakes:


Budget friendly options:

 
They did seem high. I went to Toyota parts except for the proportional valve
 
I see the chassis and body FSM shows how to rebuild the booster. Anyone have a clue as to what rebuild kit to get? The one I pulled of my truck says Bendix model # 225-00510 japanese jidoshakiki co ltd...so is that original OEM part? @OGBeno
 
I used the 94 4Runner non-ABS booster on my 60. It was pretty simple, but the booster I got did not have a big port for the vacuum line check valve, only a nipple. I sourced a used inline check valve from a parts yard for $1. Pulled that off a Lexus car. I also made this handy booster rod H-tool out of cardboard, masking tape and a bamboo skewer. I've used it a couple of times and it works great. It's a little warped now from sitting around in my shop, but I can make another one in 5 minutes.

IMG_5473[1].JPG
 
I just bought a 60 and the brakes are ass. I’ve bled them three times and they’re still disgusting. I will continue flushing them until they’re clean. With that, I’m fairly certain my booster is shot as it’s the original so I’m gonna replace it. Would there be any benefit for me replacing the master cylinder, calipers, rotors, and wheel cylinders while I’m at it?
 

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