FJ60 Brake Booster options (8 Viewers)

[g-man]

My 1987 60 is pretty much stock as far as the brake components. AND....I've got a weak brakes. They just don't grab but slowly stop. Unable to get them to lock up. After bleeding all the wheel cylinders/calipers, nothing changed. I tested for vacuum with a mighty vac at the booster and it's not able to pull or hold vacuum. I removed the rock hard vacuum line and and connected straight to the metal barb on the booster and still no vacuum. I pump the brakes 3 times and turn the motor on and the pedal doesn't go down. The pedal isn't really soft when driving nor rock hard. I guess my internal bladder on the booster is shot? What are my options for a replacement? I know the OEM part is NLA. How hard is it to adapt a 4 runner booster? What about a 62 booster? Other than the Hose and the booster and an H tool...what else do I need?

 

[ZCissner]

an 80 series bolts right in.

 

[cps432]

4 runner booster from a 1996 should drop right in. I used a master cylinder from a T100 of the same year model. Replace all the soft lines with stainless lines if you want it a bit stiffer. I’m also using 4Runner calipers up front. I have great stopping power, however the pedal isn’t hard. It’s not spongy either. It’s kinda just right. The only way I can lock up the brakes is if I’m in neutral. It’s scary when that happens because the weight distribution is off. Having the transmission engaged helps the truck remain balanced as you come to a stop. You can stop quicker with it in neutral, but you’ll be fishtailing a good bit and shyiting your pants.

 

[cps432]

I also remember having to remove that steel vacuum line that attaches to the OEM booster and I replaced it with a longer fuel hose to get vacuum to the booster. The 4 runner booster has that vac line on the opposite side if I recall. It’s been a couple years.

 

[onemanarmy]

4 runner booster from a 1996 should drop right in. I used a master cylinder from a T100 of the same year model. Replace all the soft lines with stainless lines if you want it a bit stiffer. I’m also using 4Runner calipers up front. I have great stopping power, however the pedal isn’t hard. It’s not spongy either. It’s kinda just right. The only way I can lock up the brakes is if I’m in neutral. It’s scary when that happens because the weight distribution is off. Having the transmission engaged helps the truck remain balanced as you come to a stop. You can stop quicker with it in neutral, but you’ll be fishtailing a good bit and shyiting your pants.

Why is the weight distribution 'off'?

Do you have a functional rear proportioning valve?

 

[Godwin]

City Racer has one for the 80 series that will work with a 60. I've been running one for 3-4 years.

 

[4runner2FJ60]

I got the aftermarket booster from Cruiser Outfitters a couple of years ago, with all new brakes & 4runner calipers up front. Also SS soft lines. It will lock them up on my rig. Just my two cents. This is the Master Cylinder I used.

 

[cheeese]

I got the dual diaphragm unit from City Racer, works great, nice install.

 

[cps432]

Why is the weight distribution 'off'?

Do you have a functional rear proportioning valve?

The fj60 does not have a rear proportioning valve.

I believe the weight distribution issue has to do with how much force is applied to the brake pads themselves. With the transmission disengaged the entire weight of the vehicle is being stopped by the brake pads alone. With the transmission engaged the engine rotation is distributing that load differently. I’m not an engineer so I can’t give you the equations. I had a friend who was a master mechanic for saab and bmw and he explained it to me in detail many years ago while he was riding with me in the truck. He suggested I not take the vehicle out of gear when coming to a stop because of this problem. Not to mention, if your brakes fail for some reason the truck is a haphazard missile when it’s not in gear.

@cruisermatt had an issue where his truck jumped out of gear on a down slope while on the trail and his brakes weren’t enough to stop him. A tree was though… Perhaps he knows more about this topic than I do. He has real world experience with it.

 

[onemanarmy]

Yea...I was there when Matt hit the tree. That situation was a combo of a lot of things.

I did not know that the 60s didn't have a LSPV. How about that.

But yes, engine braking on manuals does help. Not so sure about the weight distribution part of it though.

 

[g-man]

found this pretty detailed video of an 80 series booster swap. Looks harder than the 60. I'd like to not have to bench bleed my master cylinder but instead pull the master cylinder forward bending the brake lines a little but have it all connected. I replaced it a few years ago.

 

[LCnAZ]

I had the same symptoms. I wasn't sure what the problem was, so I started replacing stuff. I got the master cylinder from @cruiseroutfit, new OEM rotors and pads, but the problem remained. It was the booster. Mine was an aftermarket my Firestone guys got for me, and they did all the labor. Brakes excellent now. My Firestone guys are used to me finding the parts for them. They even did the front knuckles using the kit from @cruiseroutfit, among many other things that are out of my wheelhouse.

Like other guys said, I've heard that the booster from the 4-runner of the 90s is a match.

 

[cruisermatt]

@cruisermatt had an issue where his truck jumped out of gear on a down slope while on the trail and his brakes weren’t enough to stop him. A tree was though… Perhaps he knows more about this topic than I do. He has real world experience with it.

Biggest issue in hindsight from that situation was how steep of a cliff it was and the bouncing off rocks. Doesn’t matter what your brakes are doing if the wheels aren’t or are only barely on the surface.

 

[g-man]

I got the aftermarket booster from Cruiser Outfitters a couple of years ago, with all new brakes & 4runner calipers up front. Also SS soft lines. It will lock them up on my rig. Just my two cents. This is the Master Cylinder I used.
View attachment 3267606

I think this model number is for a master cylinder and not a booster judging by my searches.

 

[g-man]

So my OEM type master cylinder will bolt up to a 90s 4runner booster?

 

[g-man]

City Racer has one for the 80 series that will work with a 60. I've been running one for 3-4 years.

unfortunately City Racer site is down for spring break and I'm trying to get this back together so I don't incur another state inspection fee. do you know exactly what booster they sell (brand name and part #) I mean is something I can pick up off rock auto...like cardone or off brand or is it a Toyota OE part for the international market that I should try and get because it's going to last longer.

 

[cps432]

Yea...I was there when Matt hit the tree. That situation was a combo of a lot of things.

I did not know that the 60s didn't have a LSPV. How about that.

But yes, engine braking on manuals does help. Not so sure about the weight distribution part of it though.

I didn’t understand the weight distribution issue either, but my buddy went into some differential equation stuff that was way over my head. I think it comes down to the amount of friction and force that’s distributed to the engine/transmission vs brakes.

I had an issue in my transfercase and rear pinion and was putting it in neural to lessen the back load upon deceleration. There was a bunch of chattering in the bearings if I didn’t do that. His explanation was way more detailed, but essentially I was making the brakes do more work than they needed to and putting myself in a dangerous situation should a line blow out with the added force applied to the brake system.

 

[cps432]

unfortunately City Racer site is down for spring break and I'm trying to get this back together so I don't incur another state inspection fee. do you know exactly what booster they sell (brand name and part #) I mean is something I can pick up off rock auto...like cardone or off brand or is it a Toyota OE part for the international market that I should try and get because it's going to last longer.

I got my parts from rock auto. The booster and master were remanufactured OEM parts. No issues at all five years later.

 

[Godwin]

found this pretty detailed video of an 80 series booster swap. Looks harder than the 60. I'd like to not have to bench bleed my master cylinder and pull the whole thing forward.

Ignore this video. A 60 series booster replacement is not that bad. Some under the dash contortions and aligning brake pedal connection but otherwise not bad.

 

[open country]

I got the dual diaphragm unit from City Racer, works great, nice install.

Same here, works great.