Builds FJ45SWB recovered from a barn (1 Viewer)

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The biggest discomfort on the long test drive was the heat coming up through the tunnel cover, which is all chopped up from previous tranny swaps.
Does anybody have a good writeup/pics/dimensions for how to build up the tunnel cover to clear the taller/longer H42 vs the original column shift J30?
 
The biggest discomfort on the long test drive was the heat coming up through the tunnel cover, which is all chopped up from previous tranny swaps.
Does anybody have a good writeup/pics/dimensions for how to build up the tunnel cover to clear the taller/longer H42 vs the original column shift J30?

Jim

I did a 1” body lift on the cab. The effects on the front clip were negligible, the alignment with the bed improved, and the clearance with the H42 became a non-issue. Cab is only held on by 4 bolts.
 
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Cab lift would be one way to do it.
This tunnel cover is already hacked up, so it has to be welded up. Might as well weld up a hat for clearance. I'm just trying avoid re-inventing the wheel if somebody has already done the design for me.
 
Pichers, cuz everbody luvz pichers.

Got the safari vent unstuck. Knob/shaft was rust frozen right in front of knob. Removed locknut & knob, saturated w/ b'laster for a day, tapped with little ball peen and... viola! Operable vent.
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Next thing that was stuck: passenger wing vent. It was also missing the plastic knob & screw, so the 2 pieces of linkage were just flopping about. Spent a few minutes with a blunt screwdriver working all around the outside of the window, prying back the petrified weatherstrip while pressing it open. Finally came unstuck from the weatherstrip it has been friends with for 32 years. Scrounged around, found this M5 threaded knob and an M5 self locking flange nut. Close enough for us.

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Last thing from this weekend: an outside rearview mirror, because the tiny 1962 inside mirror is useless. There are many holes from various aftermarket mirrors that were screwed to the body, but none are still there. The original mirror mount and pivot piece were still bolted to the side of the cowl. The mirror arm was long gone. Scrounging around turned up this early 70s mirror arm & head. The mirror head is cracked, but I know there is a new one around here somewhere. Still looking for it, but this is a good start.

DSC00338.JPG
 
Oh, hey, does anybody have an (early up to 1970-ish) interior door handle available, maybe off a rusted or wrecked door? Bonus points for having the E-68 coarse thread screws.
Bugs me that it's been removed from driver door.

Should look like this one on the pass. door:
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What an offer. I remember hanging with John and I believe John's daughter Becky? And others at the rubithon years ago. Great times and hospitality. You should totally do that. Saves on shipping.
 
The biggest discomfort on the long test drive was the heat coming up through the tunnel cover, which is all chopped up from previous tranny swaps.
Does anybody have a good writeup/pics/dimensions for how to build up the tunnel cover to clear the taller/longer H42 vs the original column shift J30?

I’m not familiar with the 62 sheet metal but I am working on a similar issue on my 65. Instead of cutting the original tranny tunnel and f’ing that rare piece all up I’m using a 74-78 tranny hump from a 40 I got from Paul. It’s a pretty close match and tall enough for the 4 speed. It needs some massaging for sure but is a good starting point. My sheet metal guy has been too busy to get to this and I wanted my 45 back on the road so it still sits as posted. A few bolts holding it on and some temporary cardboard covering the holes for test drives.

Starts with post #410 here:

Just had to treat myself for Halloween... 65 SWB
 
Dom, thanks for the input. I looked at your pics, which show me I don't want to try to put the whole 4 speed tunnel cover in there. But it gives me an idea. Since there's already a 1 square foot hole in the top of the original cover, maybe scab on the top of a 4speed cover to get the taller profile and (bonus!) get the 4speed shifter hole & boot in just the right spot.

I'm on the hunt for a 4speed cover with the mounting flange rusted off. Pretty common around here.
 
Hey Jim,

I'm pretty sure I have a rusty cover in southern IN. Not too far from the early 2F head you wanted (and the 3FE head you need for my motor).

Nick
 
Jim you might also consider using an FJ60 tranny cover. They are usually easier to come buy, cheaper and easy to modify for your purposes.
 
Isn't the 60 cover just a flat section of floor?

I'm thinking of cutting the 4speed cover along the sides, then placing it on the early cover, but raised up 1- 2 inches. Stitch weld along the sides and bob's yer unkle.
 
Isn't the 60 cover just a flat section of floor?

I'm thinking of cutting the 4speed cover along the sides, then placing it on the early cover, but raised up 1- 2 inches. Stitch weld along the sides and bob's yer unkle.

If you’re going to do that, you might as well invert the bulge in the left footwell of the hump for some REAL foot room. It’s only there for non-existent column linkage.
 
No pitchers today, just a quick update for the past several months.

A new OEM rearview mirror was hung on the old OEM arm, visibility improved 326.5% .

A used OEM door pull was installed on driver's door. (Thanks Pardi!)

Brake & tail lights were inop. Found one light fixture hopelessly corroded, one burned out bulb and one dead brake light switch. Installed good used taillight assy, good OEM bulbs. Removed bad brake switch, pried apart hoping to clean up contacts, but little springs & levers shot all over the floor. Went to shelf, found brake switch from late 70's FJ40. Installs & plungers the same, but switch is much bulkier. Spent a minute making it smaller with the grinding wheel, fits perfect now. Both brake light, both taillights work.

Screwed on 2 new rear side reflectors to replace mismatched ones.

The radiator that had already been repaired once was still leaking. Per @Hoperichb suggestion, it was taken to Frank's Radiator Service in Granville, OH. Frank quickly identified the leak and soldered a brass scrap over a cracked area of the bottom tank, problem solved. Thanks Frank! (and Hoperich)

Next: weld up a tunnel cover, and install smaller bore MC.
 
Jim - do you have any pics of your transfer case shift linkage esp. at the passenger rear engine mount pivot location? Thanks. Paul
 

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