Builds FJ45SWB recovered from a barn (1 Viewer)

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Is that “Rr FJ45 driveshaft“ for a centered rear diff setup? If so, what would it take to get to 83670?
Yes it is!
Whoa, the ludicrous SOR price is $307+shipping!
How about sending me $100 to make it appear on your doorstep.
That's $10 for the shaft and $90 for finding a big box, wrapping it up, weighing it, purchasing a UPS oversize shipping label, then taking it back into town to the UPS store.
 
Catching up on pic posting.
Removing original front drum brake axle. Everything unbolted easily because AZ desert truck.
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Now it's saturday night, so I don't have any help in the shop. How to move this heavy-arse drum axle outta the shop? :(

:idea: Fire up the FJ60 forklift, :hillbilly: yee haw.
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That makes room to put the new(ish) axle in place.
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Install new(ish) shocks, newish drag link with new poly boots, 1978 tires, 1976 wheels, new 1963 style hubcaps, original? front bumper, drop it on the ground....
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Hi Jim - fair enough! (Assuming also these have the smaller bolt flanges, 8mm iirc?). Don’t see how to send you a pm. PayPal? Psul
 
These are the original D-shafts AFAIK. Tiny 8mm bolt flanges, tiny u-joints, rubber boots on slip yokes...

PayPal can go to my 'mud ID at gmail dot com. Put yer UPS shipping address in the PP comments field, please.
 
Thanks Jim. Can you measure the flange-to-flange distance of the shaft fully compressed? I got two regular 40 shafts from Georg recently with the intent to have one lengthened once I get the tranny and tc in the rig. But if yours is longer which it should be for a centered diff setup I’d rather start from there. Thanks Paul

BTW, if you’re parting with that front bumper I’d take that too:D. Looking for one that looks just like that (except I don’t need the slot for a winch cable). Perfect patina!
 
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Thanks Jim. Sending along the paypal payment. Address in note.

Nice tease on the bumper lol!
 
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On Friday, went to town and dumpster dived some corrugated to ship the D-shaft to @middlecalf .

To build a FJ45 4speed rear shaft, 2 shafts were dropped at clutch & driveline store. One FJ40 rear shaft (super short) for the 4speed ends, and a 1990s mini shaft for the long metric tube & long slip yoke.
 
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Finally had time to pickup the hybrid D-shaft from Driveline1.
They do good work for a fair price, highly recommended if you're in central Ohio.

Here's what that shaft looks like hanging under the FJ45.
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Finally operating in RWD!
If only I had brake lines, it would be sorta driveable.
 
Did get the rubber bellows for t-case vac shift mechanism. Amazed that these pieces for 62-64 t-case are still available.
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I didn’t have a tcase or shift mechanism when you posted this a while ago but now I do, same vintage from Georg. The shift mech will need to be cleaned up and rebuilt a bit, and I’ll need the rubber boots (and the switch but I don’t think that’s still avsilable, maybe I can find a used one). Do you have the part numbers for the boots? Any suggestions on where to locate them? I’ve used Camelback Toyota Parts a bit. Thanks again, Paul (I see the tracking on the driveshaft shows Monday delivery, if the Pony Express riders stay on schedule :))
 
So jog my memory slip joint towards case or diff? Which is better mr guru? Or does it really matter?
 
Toyota says slip yokes toward t-case to keep them out of harm's way. I keep slip yokes down so the water drains out of them. Ohio 4-wheeling is a lot of slopping around in mud & creeks.
 
Spent time over the last week bending, flaring & installing all new dual circuit hard brake lines.
Bled them out yesterday & chased a bunch of little leaks.

Finally today, the FJ45 drove at speed, on public roads, for the first time since... 1986?

Nowhere near done, but it's very encouraging that the steering felt OK, engine pulls strong, and brake pedal is firm.

Next is to get full exhaust on it, and get more gauges operating, get brake lights working.
 
The drums can be made to work, but it's a fiddly & possibly expensive process. The 4WDB setup just works. A pair of front calipers & some pads is $100. Rear GM swap setup is $200?

Pics for the 'visual learners' out there:
The MC is a 1" bore ASCO dual circuit, aluminum for durability, no residual valves for use with discs. No prop valve, since the front calipers are large & have aggressive pads. Mounted to firewall with a really nice milled aluminum adapter from JT outfitters.
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Lines go across top of firewall, down to 78 dual circuit junction block mounted in stock location on top of passenger frame rail. From there, forward to a frame tab & new soft line also spec'd for 78. Rear hardline is one long run back to the modified 1962 frame tab (it was there, unlike the front), then a new 78 hose down to axle. No good pics, brake lines are boring.

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The 1" bore MC was installed because it was on the shelf. A 7/8 or 3/4 would improve pedal effort. May make that swap after driving it some more & bedding in brakes.
 
Exhaust was the next thing on the list. Started with a front downpipe off an old FJ40, glued some extra pipe to that, then some chopped up J-bend to get around the tubular X-member.
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Then scabbed together a rear half using some new straight pipe and a bunch of j-bend from a ill-fitting FJ60 exhaust system that came off a customer truck. All the bends were there, just the lengths between bends were wrong. The previous builder of the FJ60 exhaust had obviously struggled to get it right (which it never was) because there were several welds where little bits had been added or subtracted. Apparently, tape measures and angle gauges are hard.

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It came out well, but that welded chambered muffler is a piece of crap, as far as muffling goes. My DD FJ60 has no muffler and is quieter than this muff. Amplifier would be a more appropriate description.
Test drive around the block shows that exhaust gas is not coming in the cabin at all, so that part is done.
 
Cleaned up the rear of the body.
First, got the torch out and burned off the stump of a ludicrously beefy trailer hitch.

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Then used the torch to unstick the frozen tire rack hinge. After heating it cherry red & hammering it apart, it had to be painted. After greasing & reassembling, the tire rack was hung in place. Boy, the paint just fell off that rack, didn't it?
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And hung an OEM spare in place. Decided it was time for a longer test drive, maybe to the gas station in town. Probably oughta display a license tag from this century. Ready to roll now!

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