Builds FJ45SWB recovered from a barn (1 Viewer)

[FJ40Jim]

More random stuff:

Finally got around to chaining up the new OEM gas cap. The cap is available new but the 2 little wire loops and the flattened chain (called 'sash chain' at the hardware store) are NLA, so were sourced at local Ace hardware.

Random poser shot showing that 30's fit no problem, but a taller, wider 31 or 33 x10.50 gets too close to the front of the rear wheelwell.

Back to the interior stuff, dug out my last remaining new OEM glovebox trouble light. Unwrapped it from the hermetically sealed bubble wrap and plugged it in. Huzzah, it works!

Sorted through the jacks, found the oldest one and matching rods & crank handle. Cleaned & painted yellow. Also found a Toyota lug wrench with the correct 21mm hex and a hubcap pry tip that works for removing the hella tight dog dish hubcabs. Still working on a Toyota toolbag.

 

[wngrog]

Haha. Oops. I see that now.

Same question though.

I’ve seen small window single barrel carbs and the big window ones.

what’s the difference?

Its an FJ60 motor Nolen.

 

[FJ40Jim]

What year F135 came with that small window single barrel versus the big window? Does one do better than the other?

The carb is a mongrel 75-81 2F, 2barrel.

1bbl started to get the small window when the Cruiser 2-bbl got the small window, 1970. North America didn't get those smallest window 1bbls, except as new replacement carbs from dealer parts counter. The later 1-bbl is a better unit because it has a power valve and other improvements.

That is a cool cluster. What year were they used?

FJ25 and early FJ40 have the oil light & generator light. IIRC, when they switch up to an alternator in 65-ish, the cluster is improved with ammeter & oil gage.

 

[77HesterSue]

Looks great!

 

[FJ40Jim]

Looks great!

Thanks! It's been a lot of diddly little work, but it's finally paying off in terms of being a functional driver.

Today's question:
What is this ? An ancient Toyota heater, but how ancient, and what is the OE application?
It came in the FJ45, but wasn't connected to electric.

 

[65swb45]

That there is a certifiable unicorn!

 

[jovinscout]

Nice cruiser.. you must be some kind of lucky to find one of those. good for you.
you still doing Distributor recurving ?

 

[FJ40Jim]

The time has come to say goodbye to this FJ45. I've taken it about as far as my considerable mechanical skills and limited cosmetic skills will go.
But before it leaves, the steering needed a little updating. It has a manual saginaw swap from the 1970's. Though it was working OK, there were several problems with the swap, in particular the steering shaft & column.

The intermediate shaft was a little too long and had no slipshaft, so the steering shaft was being shoved up out of the column tube over bumps.
The added lower bearing was an inch size bearing in a piece of inch-size tubing welded to the end of the steering tube.
The upper u-joint was 3/4 round by 5/8 round, so the steering column shaft had been turned down to 5/8 with a sharp shoulder. Hello, stress riser.
The lower u-joint was... not. An OEM GM rag joint from the early 70's (probably from the same JY truck as the manual box) was being used as a U-joint with predictable shredded results.
The steering column was welded to a firewall plate that had the wheel even closer to driver than stock, which meant the prospective new owner couldn't fit behind the wheel comfortably.

A new slip shaft was ordered to get the slip travel so the upper steer column would stay together. A borgeson iso-vibe u-joint was used at the steering box to give some road isolation and a proper u-joint. At the top a 3/4DD u-joint was used, attaching to the stock steer column shaft after some cutoff wheel action put 2 D-flats on the shaft. The shaft was also shortened to: 1. remove the 5/8 tip and 2. allow more room to drop the column away from the driver.

The u-joint on the box was larger than the shaft & rag joint that used to be there, so the radiator stand had to come out for a little clearancing. Also had to further clearance the radiator undertray.

The steer column passes through a firewall plate that is slotted to allow for some "tilt" adjustability.

The bottom few inches was cut off the column tube to get rid of the welded bearing holder-on tube thing. The common 1-3/8x3/4 bearing was pushed into the tube, but it went in too easily, so a slit was cut in the tube and a hose clamp placed to close the slit for more grip on the bearing. The column is held to the firewall plate by a metal angle that is bolted to the plate with a single M8 stainless bolt. This allows for easy length adjustability, and might slip in a crash to give some collapsible steer column effect.

Took the whole famn damily for one last ride in the truck with new & improved steering, engine, tranny, transfer, axles, tires, 4WDB, electrics...

And now the junk hauling shop truck is off on new adventures with the next owner. He is already ordering new weatherstrips and window gaskets and headlights and....

 

[wngrog]

Well done sir.

 

[Bear]

Bet you're gonna miss it !

 

[jovinscout]

very Nice.. new owner is going to treasure it..

 

[TEakins]

Send to South America for the bodywork.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Send to South America for the bodywork.

That's ironic because new owner is from SA.

So it's like a little piece of SA came here to work on the truck.

 

[wngrog]

Where did you order this shaft? The ones I have been getting from Jegs have the small DD rod being the long piece and the 1” DD being the short piece.
I need the long hollow 1” DD

 

[FJ40Jim]

Where did you order this shaft? The ones I have been getting from Jegs have the small DD rod being the long piece and the 1” DD being the short piece.
I need the long hollow 1” DD

View attachment 2320808

Ordered all 3 steering shaft pieces from Jegs, because they are close to my shop.
The main slip shaft is a Borgeson 36" slip shaft, 1"DD x 3/4"DD.
Part no. 450036.

 

[CHUOX17A]

Finally got the time to work on some updates. I have named the truck CANAIMA because she is beautiful and unique as a national park that I love back home. I already ordered parts to make sure the cabin is weather/ water proof. She will be a garage queen but I still want to make sure I don’t get water coming in if I get stuck in the rain. Will post some pictures soon

 

[CHUOX17A]

Here is a little update. I took some time to do some deep cleaning. Decide I am going to clean only the driver side first to be able to compare before and after. Will be using @wngrog patina technique plus some variation of 1000 and 1500 San paper for a smooth finish.

 

[middlecalf]

Keeping a watch on this thread as this rig is very close to mine, a bit earlier. So this thread has been a good guide for my build.

Which brings me to a question, Jim @FJ40Jim hopefully you’re still following. In this earlier post you stated that you clearanced the floor for the t/c:

Got the floor clearanced for the hi-lo linkage on t-case. In this pic the new 4-speed t-case (green) is behind the original floor hump for 3-speed (red) by a few inches. The shifter on top of the t-case is directly under the floor x-member (blue).
View attachment 1235756

I‘m having clearance issues with my t/c and floor. I’m using a 3-spd column shift tranny and 3-spd t/c. Jim, did you change out the body mounts for more height or drop the drivetrain some, or what to alleviate the interference? I’m not sure why I’m having interference with a stock driveline. Thanks.

 

[middlecalf]

@FJ40Jim Here’s the issue in my build:

Using nominal body mounts and a little extra there isn’t enough clearance for the T/C. Pics of the mounts and interference. The front mount doesn’t even seat fully. Don’t know what mounts are OEM for this early 45.
View attachment 2323682View attachment 2323683View attachment 2323686

 

[CHUOX17A]

Worked on the gas filter. Replace the dirty element and modified a spring to keep the pressure on the new one. Will be servicing the starter next and get her for a drive tomorrow