It´s not tightened properly yet in the picture.@-MaTTi- that lock nut is doing much good, needs a longer bolt.
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It´s not tightened properly yet in the picture.@-MaTTi- that lock nut is doing much good, needs a longer bolt.
I have 60-series (late model) steering box, 70-series relay rod and Monroe SC2915 steering damper with SC2946 mountings. Those are cheap in Rockauto, so I bought both and mixed them to get right one. Just right length now without any modifications.
View attachment 2189142
I made the left one, here is some pictures of it: BJ42 going in half - project
Yes, I cut one very much, almost got it fit properly, but not so good I wanted:I see that you heavily modified that DS shock tower
Does the 60 pitman arm fit the 80 series box ?
Do you think that the shock tower remained strong after being modified to clear the steering shaftyes, they do - same clearance on the shock tower, too - that's why Kevin was able to swap in the 80 box so easily after prepping for the 60 box
Sorry if this question was asked before. What is the advantage of the 80 box vs the 60's ?
How thick are the plates you used to reinforce the frame under the box ? Good job on yours by the way.i hope mine looks as good when done.
Do you think that the shock tower remained strong after being modified to clear the steering shaft
Thank you. I will proceed as you advise. Great info.80 power piston is 4mm larger diameter. This means more steering assist. In practice it is minimal difference and both boxes are very powerful on a FJ40 which is much lighter then a 60. Use whatever box you get your hands on.
Plate welded on the inside of frame is 3/16", frame sleeved with 1/2" ID tubing. Nothing thicker then the rest of the chassis, doesn't need to be.
People have been doing these for +25 years... it's fine
Did you also use 3/16 on the outside ?80 power piston is 4mm larger diameter. This means more steering assist. In practice it is minimal difference and both boxes are very powerful on a FJ40 which is much lighter then a 60. Use whatever box you get your hands on.
Plate welded on the inside of frame is 3/16", frame sleeved with 1/2" ID tubing. Nothing thicker then the rest of the chassis, doesn't need to be.
People have been doing these for +25 years... it's fine
Did you also use 3/16 on the outside ?
what do you mean with "remained strong" ? - it was braced for additional strength over the OEM shock towerDo you think that the shock tower remained strong after being modified to clear the steering shaft
Good to know. Glad that I won't have to install the Ford shock towers . They're impossible to get here.what do you mean with "remained strong" ? - it was braced for additional strength over the OEM shock tower
also, nothing on my power steering conversion has broken in the past 7 years
If you don’t use an outside plate you have to move or modify the radiator support right?No, 3/16" on the side and the holes in the frame are sleeved with 1/2" tubing. That prevents the frame from crushing. Plating the outside would require even more material removed from the shock mount.
If you don’t use an outside plate you have to move or modify the radiator support right?
When I did my FJ60 conversion I used a 1/4” plate on the outside of the frame to clear the radiator support and then used F250 shock towers. Is the 80 box bigger than a 60 so it interferes more with the radiator?Over 1” needs to be removed from the rad. support. So you would need at a minimum a 1” plate to avoid that, as well as a completely new shock mount.
When I did my FJ60 conversion I used a 1/4” plate on the outside of the frame to clear the radiator support and then used F250 shock towers. Is the 80 box bigger than a 60 so it interferes more with the radiator?
Brahma's Saginaw/FJ60 Power Steering Conversion
Great stuff Matt! Thanks for the pics on the threads... I can't wait until you get the drag link/relay rod in!!risingsun4x4club.org