FJ40 Power Steering Conversion - 80 Series Power Steering Box Kit? (1 Viewer)

[lelandEOD]

Did you find a front steering stabilizer solution?

Not yet; I'm still weighing options. If I have to relocate my damper bracket, I may just try to reuse the OME Damper I had with my old factory steering setup. I need to play around with the relay rod threaded length, the knuckle steering stops, and the position of the pitman arm to see if I can arrange the three to work with a Bilstein 24-174534:
Amazon product ASIN B007N6QIVE

It has a compressed length of 13.1" and an extended length of 20.62" so it's awful close. When I measure the lengths needed to work with the stock damper hanger and the 70-Series relay rod end, I get 13.5" to 21.5".

...so I think I need to find about 1/2"-3/4" somewhere in my adjustments to get the Bilstein to work.

 

[Will Van]

Not yet; I'm still weighing options. If I have to relocate my damper bracket, I may just try to reuse the OME Damper I had with my old factory steering setup. I need to play around with the relay rod threaded length, the knuckle steering stops, and the position of the pitman arm to see if I can arrange the three to work with a Bilstein 24-174534:
Amazon product ASIN B007N6QIVE

It has a compressed length of 13.1" and an extended length of 20.62" so it's awful close. When I measure the lengths needed to work with the stock damper hanger and the 70-Series relay rod end, I get 13.5" to 21.5".

...so I think I need to find about 1/2"-3/4" somewhere in my adjustments to get the Bilstein to work.

Roger that. What made you choose the 70 series pitman arm?

 

[lelandEOD]

The 'pitman arm' on the box is from a 60-Series as it has more droop than the one that came on the 80-Series box.


I went with a 555 TRE Kit from Cruiser Outfitters because it worked with the larger size (late -40, Minitruck, -60/-70) tapered steering arms I have but has a shorter relay rod joint than the 60-Series. I figured the 70-Series TREs would be a better fit as the frame width is more similar to the 40-Series.

 

[Will Van]

The 'pitman arm' on the box is from a 60-Series as it has more droop than the one that came on the 80-Series box.


I went with a 777 TRE Kit from Cruiser Outfitters because it worked with the larger size (late -40, Minitruck, -60/-70) tapered steering arms I have but has a shorter relay rod joint than the 60-Series and I figured the 70-Series TREs would be a better fit as the frame width is more similar to the 40-Series.

Ah, 70 series tie rod ends and 60 series pitman arm. Thanks for the info/clarification!

 

[lelandEOD]

Update: By shortening my relay rod adjustment to the minimum length, TREs fully threaded in, I get the following measurements:

Compressed 13.25" - extended 19-11/16"

So, the Bilstein damper I posted above should work fine with the factory damper hanger and the 70-Series TREs.

I'm going to order it now and will report my findings.

 

[lelandEOD]

...I just have to figure out what kinds of ends will work to adapt the Bilstein to the factory mounts. I'm not sure what size taper pins are needed to get it to work.

 

[lelandEOD]

The Bilsteins are advertised to have a 12 mm eye hole. I’m not sure how I’m going to make this work but I could potentially modify the taper pin adapters that came with my OME damper. These measure about 16 mm so I would have to turn them down on the lathe unless I can find something better.

 

[C6H12O6]

Also a heads up about the 105 steering box upgrade: the splines for the pitman arm are different and (I think) only match up with the new 105 sector shaft. Double check that if you plan on upgrading to the newer, beefier 105 sector shaft in the 80-series steering box. When I got hit in my 80, insurance ponied up for a brand new Toyota steering box ($2,500+), also requiring a new pitman arm, as the older style box is NLA. You can order the 105 sector shaft to have an old 80 box rebuilt, but it might not play well with whatever else you build up.

 

[lelandEOD]

Got ‘em turned and picked up the damper from Summit.

Now I’m headed home to see if it fits.

 

[dr_dobro]

I took a 1/2” plate piece, drilled and tapped 1/2x20 holes. Not your typical 40 but an idea for your box .

 

[lelandEOD]

Looks like I may have to move the damper hanger after all. The Bilstein fits fine in terms of length but the geometry between the hanger and the relay rod end and the orientation of the tapered fittings are causing some problems. The pins that attach to the hanger and TRE (on both ends are tapered in the usual Toyota 1:10/1.200"... the problem is the frame hanger is tapered from back to front and the TRE is tapered from front to back. This means that I have to really twist the damper pretty hard to get it in the tapered holes and that ain't kosher.

The only solution, as I see it, is to either A.) use a taper reamer and ream the frame hole from the front oversize and use a taper sleeve bushing to get a good match on the damper pin, or B.) cut off the frame hanger rivets and turn the bracket around so that the taper matches the TRE taper of front to back. Either of these solutions will keep the damper from binding up. But one means I have to spend a lot of coin on a one-time-use reamer and the other means I need to hack my stock steering damper hanger which irritates the crap out of me because the whole exercise was focused on avoiding just that.

Dang it.

 

[Will Van]

Looks like I may have to move the damper hanger after all. The Bilstein fits fine in terms of length but the geometry between the hanger and the relay rod end and the orientation of the tapered fittings are causing some problems. The pins that attach to the hanger and TRE (on both ends are tapered in the usual Toyota 1:10/1.200"... the problem is the frame hanger is tapered from back to front and the TRE is tapered from front to back. This means that I have to really twist the damper pretty hard to get it in the tapered holes and that ain't kosher.

The only solution, as I see it, is to either A.) use a taper reamer and ream the frame hole from the front oversize and use a taper sleeve bushing to get a good match on the damper pin, or B.) cut off the frame hanger rivets and turn the bracket around so that the taper matches the TRE taper of front to back. Either of these solutions will keep the damper from binding up. But one means I have to spend a lot of coin on a one-time-use reamer and the other means I need to hack my stock steering damper hanger which irritates the crap out of me because the whole exercise was focused on avoiding just that.

Dang it.

That stinks!

What do other people do when they run a power steering setup? Does the 60 series steering box cause all this headache? Or do most people just not run a steering damper?

What did @The Eradicator do with his 80 series box?

 

[pb4ugo]

Once I corrected my caster angle, which was off because of a 4" lift, and installed power steering, I have never run a steering stabilizer. Ive been running a scout box for the last 15yrs, prior to that it had a sag box out frt. It drives straight down the road and very stable.

 

[-MaTTi-]

Did you find a front steering stabilizer solution?

I have 60-series (late model) steering box, 70-series relay rod and Monroe SC2915 steering damper with SC2946 mountings. Those are cheap in Rockauto, so I bought both and mixed them to get right one. Just right length now without any modifications.

 

[Fj moneypit]

I have 60-series (late model) steering box, 70-series relay rod and Monroe SC2915 steering damper with SC2946 mountings. Those are cheap in Rockauto, so I bought both and mixed them to get right one. Just right length now without any modifications.
View attachment 2189142

Do this. . I can’t thank @Matti enough for the input when I did mine. Worked out great. I used a late model 60 box and a 62 pump.

 

[Will Van]

Several different people have suggested using the 80 series steering box for a 1HZ conversion, because the hydraulic plumbing works well. I have never seen it in person, but if it’s not much better than a 60 series box, it may not be worth the headache for clean fluid lines.

Again, I haven’t seen a 1HZ with either a 60 series or 80 series steering box, so I cannot comment on the layout.

 

[Fj moneypit]

Several different people have suggested using the 80 series steering box for a 1HZ conversion, because the hydraulic plumbing works well. I have never seen it in person, but if it’s not much better than a 60 series box, it may not be worth the headache for clean fluid lines.

Again, I haven’t seen a 1HZ with either a 60 series or 80 series steering box, so I cannot comment on the layout.

you can do a early 80 box or a late 60 box.

 

[Will Van]

you can do a early 80 box or a late 60 box.

The 1HZ also works well with a late 60 box? How so? The bolt patterns are the same? Any other advantage?

 

[3_puppies]

I have 60-series (late model) steering box, 70-series relay rod and Monroe SC2915 steering damper with SC2946 mountings. Those are cheap in Rockauto, so I bought both and mixed them to get right one. Just right length now without any modifications.
View attachment 2189142

@-MaTTi- that lock nut is doing much good, needs a longer bolt.

 

[DSRTRDR]

That stinks!

What do other people do when they run a power steering setup? Does the 60 series steering box cause all this headache? Or do most people just not run a steering damper?

What did @The Eradicator do with his 80 series box?

I am not running a damper - just not needed with proper caster angle adjustment