FJ40 Full Floater Axle Build (IH8C-CLIPS)

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Couple of thoughts.
Is it possible to retain the cover without the driveslug in place?
If not, and you break a rear axle or are flat towing, how do you keep the diff lube separate from wheel bearing grease in the wheel hubs without leaving the axle in place?
 
Couple of thoughts.
Is it possible to retain the cover without the driveslug in place?
If not, and you break a rear axle or are flat towing, how do you keep the diff lube separate from wheel bearing grease in the wheel hubs without leaving the axle in place?

Stuff a rag in the end of the spindle.
 
I have been looking at the drive slug issue as well. I see that a lot of the Dana stuff has a spacer to eliminate the drive slug travel. Ideally, this would be designed like those. One idea I have is to use a large snap ring in the cap retainer slot and come up with a cap that would use the three holes in the drive slug to attach it to a Dana style cap using the three bolt holes to pull it snug (preload) against the retainer snap ring to eliminate the slug moving in and out. The axle spline length would keep the axle from walking out and the bolt and washer would keep it from walking in.

Does anyone have a Dana Cap or studless hub they could measure the circumference to see if it would fit?
 
I have been looking at the drive slug issue as well.


Are the RCV drive flanges not up to the task?

Only asking because they appear to be a easy option if they’ll work for your application.



TOY-DF.jpg




RCV 4340 Drive Flange Set for Toyota Solid Front Axles
 
They won't work with the studless hubs. I have stock hubs, but was hoping to use the studless hub instead in order to eliminate the weak point of the drive flange studs.
 
hoping to use the studless hub instead in order to eliminate the weak point of the drive flange studs.


I apologize if I’m cluttering up your build thread but are guys shearing the ARP studs and the extra 12 heavy duty pins when using the RCV drive flanges and large tires?

I can tell you for fact the pinion shaft is the weak point of my Toyota rear.

junk-jpg.1129949
 
Can the snap ring that holds the cap on also prevent the drive slug and axle from walking out? If so, a spacer under the cap that prevents the slug/axle from hammering against the cap due to the slop in the system should work.

What do you all think?
 
@J Mack : Not cluttering at all. In fact, I'm happy to have so much input. This is how really good ideas are worked out.

@pjohnson : That's what I am thinking too. From what I've seen, most, if not all D60 drive flange kits for the rear use a spacer to put "preload" on the drive slug. I measured 3/16 " of space between the slug and the cap, so I'm thinking I can cut a piece of 3/16 plate from my scrap and use that. The only reason the spacers on the D60 spacers are threaded is to retain the cap when removing the drive slug.
 
That is brutal! Is the locker salvageable?


Yes, breaking in the new Cryo'd gears now on this same ARB carrier and they seem to be holding up better than the 28 miles I got on the other set of new gears although I haven’t leaned on them yet.

In all fairness 500 foot pounds of engine torque, heavy right foot and no brain will always find the weak link and it just happen to be my pinion gear this time.
 
Yes, breaking in the new Cryo'd gears now on this same ARB carrier and they seem to be holding up better than the 28 miles I got on the other set of new gears although I haven’t leaned on them yet.

In all fairness 500 foot pounds of engine torque, heavy right foot and no brain will always find the weak link and it just happen to be my pinion gear this time.

Fine spline pinion too?
 
Anyone have any input on fabricating a spacer to "preload" the drive slug? It seems that all the other studless hubs simply use a band style or c-clip retainer for the drive slug and spacer and the key is to remove the gap between the slug and the retainer to eliminate the slug slamming into the retainer.
 
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Does the cap sit flush on the shoulder at the end of the hub splines? If so, what's the width of the section of non-engaged splines beyond the slug? If the cap sits on that shoulder, then that's the only place for movement.

You wouldn't necessarily need a snap ring groove machined inside the hub for a separate drive slug retainer. Anything (a larger washer or two?) the thickness of this section of splines, with a center hole large enough to go around the axle shaft, should make contact with the flat surface of the cap. All of this would then be retained using the snap ring included in the kit...installed on the outside of the cap 'flange'.
 
Yeah, my idea is this: the drive slug is 1 1/8" and there is 3/16" between the slug and the cap cut out so, if I use a 3/16" spacer, the slug Wil be snug to the retained cap.
There would have to be a snap ring that engages the hub (inside) to keep the drive slug in place, then snap rings on the axle shaft to keep the axle shaft in place in relation to the drive slug. There's no other way I can come up with.

This is how the Dana 60 drive slugs work. It's the only way that makes sense:

https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/attachment/36628-.pdf

http://www.rpmoffroad.com/images/RPM Offroad Drive Flange Kit Install-Large.pdf
Does the cap sit flush on the shoulder at the end of the hub splines? If so, what's the width of the section of non-engaged splines beyond the slug? If the cap sits on that shoulder, then that's the only place for movement.

You wouldn't necessarily need a snap ring groove machined inside the hub for a separate drive slug retainer. Anything (a larger washer or two?) the thickness of this section of splines, with a center hole large enough to go around the axle shaft, should make contact with the flat surface of the cap. All of this would then be retained using the snap ring included in the kit...installed on the outside of the cap 'flange'.
 
Does the cap sit flush on the shoulder at the end of the hub splines? If so, what's the width of the section of non-engaged splines beyond the slug? If the cap sits on that shoulder, then that's the only place for movement.

You wouldn't necessarily need a snap ring groove machined inside the hub for a separate drive slug retainer. Anything (a larger washer or two?) the thickness of this section of splines, with a center hole large enough to go around the axle shaft, should make contact with the flat surface of the cap. All of this would then be retained using the snap ring included in the kit...installed on the outside of the cap 'flange'.

That was much better put than my explanation, but that is exactly my idea.
 
Yeah, my idea is this: the drive slug is 1 1/8" and there is 3/16" between the slug and the cap cut out so, if I use a 3/16" spacer, the slug Wil be snug to the retained cap.

How heavy is the TG outer snap ring, for the pictures it looks thin?

If you add a spacer you’re going to be asking the aluminum cap and snap ring to do a job the TG engineers may not have anticipated when they designed it. A thicker steel cap and heavy snap ring may be an option..
 
A retainer like this?
images


This is the same retainer that the TG kit uses. This image is of a rear slug kit, so I would think the TG retainer would work as well. It is a triple layer spring style retainer.
samco%20one%20ton%20drive%20slug%20kit.JPG


The screws on these caps are used to retain the cap, the ring retains the slug.
 

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