FJ40 Full Floater Axle Build (IH8C-CLIPS)

[LAMBCRUSHER]

you're

 

[Stumpalama]

I'm thinking that one good pass with the 220 power should do it. If I were doing this with my old 120 box, I would probably do a 2nd and 3rd.
Given that Toyota used a single pass on their backing plate mounts and assuming solid penetration on 90%, I'll be good. Though, I do have a tendency to rethink and err on the side of caution, I may give another pass on the bracket face to make sure.

 

[Stumpalama]

you're

I'm glad it's not just me who rereads my own posts and edits them.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

I don't know about you, but I have to watch closely...

 

[Stumpalama]

Time to start building the hubs so I can get the measurements sent off to RCV...

Oh, yeah and they are dead nuts straight. Thanks for the pre-heat, post-heat and slow cool tips! They worked perfectly. I also welded the inner bracket faces using the same technique. I noticed the bracket had pulled slightly just from tacking on the back side so I removed the spindle collars to see where the lean was, marked the area on the bracket ( you can just see the paint pen mark by the brake bosses) and started my weld there, then went 180* and welded and continued to move around the face. I figured that welding it at once 360* would minimize any localized heating and it worked. I turned the welder down since the inner tube is thinner in this area and there was just enough space and a bevel to get good penetration.

 

[Stumpalama]

Making some real progress. I cleaned the very rusty rotors with a harbor freight polycarbide wheel, which worked like a hotdamn and saved me around $100 in new rotors. Then I coated them with some hi-temp primer and paint to forestall the rust, if only for a while.
Next step is to install the 3rd and the hubs to measure for axle shafts.
I was debating whether or not to leave the brass spindle bushing. I know the FROR kit for 4runners removes them to install an oil seal, but I am running my oil seal in the same place as the original wheel bearing.
Anyone know the answer to this question?

 

[Stumpalama]

Oh, and I also picked up my rebuilt ARB 3rd from @OTRAMM . Thanks Ryan!
The pics show how the broken axle deformed the end of the cap to the point where the bearing will not come off.

Another trophy to my shelf of shame...

And the pretty ARB ready to go:

 

[Stumpalama]

A few more of the dry fit of the hub and brake caliper. An important point to note here is that it appears that @lcwizard designed the bracket to eliminate the backing plate or the need for a backing plate eliminator; nice touch.

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi all,

Stump, am I looking at that correctly?! The hub seems to stick out from the rotor a looong way!

Regards,

Alan

 

[Stumpalama]

Hey Alan! Glad you are following along with this extended build thread.
It think it may be an optical illusion. I measured the hub flange because they looked alot fatter than the OEM hub, but they are the same thickness. The OEM hub has those undercuts between the hub studs.

 

[jstncse]

Looking good.

It does look like it sticks out alot farther than than the stock hub but not any more than a hub and lockout.

 

[J Mack]

I was debating whether or not to leave the brass spindle bushing. I know the FROR kit for 4runners removes them to install an oil seal, but I am running my oil seal in the same place as the original wheel bearing.
Anyone know the answer to this question?

I removed the brass bushings and machined the spindles for the Marlin axle seals, RCV made a seal surface for them in the drawings I gave you

 

[abosely]

J Mack, could you give some details on this? Would like to know more.

Allen

 

[Stumpalama]

Oops, I clearly misread the question from @Josie'sLandCruiser.
I think the hub is a hair shorter than the combined hub and lockout assembly.
But I will measure, because I am curious.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

Hey Stump, what's your current WMS to WMS as this axle housing is built? TY

 

[J Mack]

J Mack, could you give some details on this? Would like to know more.

Allen

Unless you plan to run your bearings in oil you’ll need an oil seal on the axle, I tried to run my bearings wet the first time and it leaked from every hub seal and axle flange. I believe the hub seals I have were made to keep water and dirt out not oil in, I was going to find double lip hub seals but decided to machine the spindles for the “Marlin Crawler Heavy Duty Front Inner Axle EcoSeals” and have RCV put the mating surface on their shaft.

This is the seal: HD Inner Axle Seal | Marlin Crawler, Inc.

I have about 5000 miles on this setup now and it works well.

 

[Stumpalama]

Hey Stump, what's your current WMS to WMS as this axle housing is built? TY

I'll let you know tonight. I'm very curious to know myself.

 

[Stumpalama]

Unless you plan to run your bearings in oil you’ll need an oil seal on the axle, I tried to run my bearings wet the first time and it leaked from every hub seal and axle flange. I believe the hub seals I have were made to keep water and dirt out not oil in, I was going to find double lip hub seals but decided to machine the spindles for the “Marlin Crawler Heavy Duty Front Inner Axle EcoSeals” and have RCV put the mating surface on their shaft.

This is the seal: HD Inner Axle Seal | Marlin Crawler, Inc.

I have about 5000 miles on this setup now and it works well.



View attachment 1232366

The @lcwizard kit includes pucks machined to press into the ends of the housing and accept the Marlin seals.

 

[reddingcruiser]

There are some pretty cool ideas popping up on this thread. I think I'll follow along.

 

[jstncse]

If memory serves me correctly, my WMS to WMS using the 40 housing turned out to be 59.5". It was almost identical to the fj60 front axle.