I saw a mention of “*minor customization for drift shaft” …. What exactly does that mean? and I’m sure there’s an option with no drive shaft customization out there.
Fj-40 shackle reverse kit specific Q. (1 Viewer)
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You may have to clearance the ujoint for more flex at full droop with a grinder.
jim land
SILVER Star
And make sure the slip joint is long enough
You don't want the driveshaft to push on the t-case on compression, you may have to shim the bump stop
You don't want the driveshaft to push on the t-case on compression, you may have to shim the bump stop
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Got it - ya when I read *minor customization to drive shaft” I was like wait huh … I doubt I’ll need any customization I already have 33’s and 2.5 lift …. I’m only putting them on because I don’t like the way the axle is forced into the shaft or did I say that backwards lol. Smoother on road. Going from mud terrain 33’s to all terrains
brian
SILVER Star
Its not smoother on the road.
I undid one, noticed almost no difference in ride quality
I undid one, noticed almost no difference in ride quality
Call Kurt and pick up a long travel slip. It will have 8" of slip yoke and 45 degree u-joints instead of the stock 40 units that only deflect 24~27 degrees.
They use 80 series front u-joints so the bolt pattern changes on the pinion flange. Kurt can supply an appropriate pinion flange. You'll put the slip at
the differential, not the t-case, as the pinion is the issue.
The 40 pinion is flat to the horizon so as you lift the truck the pinion angle becomes more severe. Every 40 I build with more than 2" of lift gets a cut and turn to
point the pinion about 6 degrees up like that of the 60 front end.
Every other option is a hit and miss. Unless you've done a lot of Cruiser mods like @White Stripe or other veterans in the 40 world, the longer slip and
more articulation of the Joint Fuji slip yoke solves the issues that may arise without second guessing yourself or finding out you misjudged 10 miles off road.
The more lift you run, the more chance of a front driveshaft issue. Toyota's slip on the 40 was only 2 3/4". The 60 got extra travel, about 3 1/4". Toyota trucks
and 80s have a 6" slip up front with the high angle u joints.
Long Travel 8" Slip-Joint Drive Shaft Kit - Fits Early-Current Land Cruisers & Toyota's (UJ35050) - https://cruiserteq.com/long-travel-8-slip-joint-drive-shaft-kit-fits-early-current-land-cruisers-toyotas-uj35050/
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ok i absolutely love your reply, thank you so much for that information! Couldnt have been more helpful! and I will absolutely be following up to this with you and Kurt because you know down to the T exactly what I should do and have done it multiple times, sounds like. Im so glad your offered this up thank you very much.
So I found out looking under my truck that the previous owner actually already installed reverse shackles and i had no idea because the ride was still so friggen rough. Granted i need all new rubber and shocks whcih im shopping for literlly as we speak, im just trying to see if I should get the Bilstein 5125 or 5100 - as I read about them it seems the only difference is the customization of size. If someone put 33's with an old school rancho lift - what size should i get of bilstein shick? i measure my current racho's from center to center of rings at 17.5'
Flex out the cruiser until the axle hits the bump stop with shocks removed. Measure from shock stud stud to shock mount stud. Take that measurement and subtract like 1/2" or 3/4". That is your needed compressed shock length. You will never get the rancho springs to ride nice. You will have to get some better leaf springs for that.
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heres a pic of current setup - which absolutely needs a change...the rancho's are completely shot...theres literally no rubber btw the eye holes- lol
and im making a decision on this tonight...Oh and I need all new tires so its like what elese should i do while im down there type of deal...
So when i purchased it had this: 33's pro comps - with this reverse shackle - leaf spring / rancho set-up
im looking for a litle more on-road performance without sacrificing the off road charging ability that previous owner went with. I mean he really rocked it out in the 2005 kind of way. Now that im the new owner and nothing has been done since then for tires / susp. Ill be doing mostly on road but i love charging it off road whenever i get a chance so i dont want to loose too much.
im thinking... either BFG All T KO2 / Toyo open country M/T / or even another procomp m/t but bending toward the BFG or Toyo's ... just trying to go all terrain without loosing too much of "the look"
Bilstein shocks and all new rubber
and then im up for suggestions but i do really like this whole 8" of slip yoke and 45 degree u-joints instead of whats down there. just trying to wrap my head around what else i would have to alter to get that installed. im sure theres something.
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This tire blow out because it cracked up - the other 3 are close too…
Top off
Top on
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Top on
You will need some 2"-2.5" or so lift leaf springs up front, and for the rear either some 2" leaf springs with long shackles or 4" leaf springs with stock shackles if you want new leafs for the shackle reverse setup. The shackle reverse gives 2" lift up front by itself. Unless you wanted to go taller then you could go with 4" springs up front and rear with long shackles in the rear and you could probably run 35" tires then.
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Ok so upon inspection my PO already put on reverse shackes - lol i know i just didnt check...but look my PO past away and his son sold me the car "knowing nothing about it" so ive been reverse engineering the car with my eyes.
you can kinda see it in the pics actually as well...
you can kinda see it in the pics actually as well...
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so thats embarrassing - but to behonest theres still a couple things im figuring out about this car and what the PO did - what i did find recently is big fat receipt to "custom cruisers - gilroy" so i have a call into Gary to say hey you completed this car a while back in the early 2000's i need it looked over and i need to know what i have here.
Anyways so I took off the old front shocks to measure … I was curious if these little blocks were high enough - it’s like 5-6inches off ground… seems small for what the car could possibly do. Articulation-wise. But I’ll get it up on these and measure.
Anyways so I took off the old front shocks to measure … I was curious if these little blocks were high enough - it’s like 5-6inches off ground… seems small for what the car could possibly do. Articulation-wise. But I’ll get it up on these and measure.
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Stands
Wheel well view of set up
Wheel well view of set up
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Ok up on one - tried to double them up but just flew out - anyways here’s what I did - feel like I’m over sharing - sorry everyone
For the small side: Still 3.5 fingers (~21/4”) btw buffer and axle so I’m figuring at least 15 3/8 inches center to center - because as it sits it’s at 17”
Does that sound right!? That would be 15 3/4
To
long side: current at 19” so add 21/4 that’s 211/4” for long side
15 3/8 - 21 1/4
Sound?
For the small side: Still 3.5 fingers (~21/4”) btw buffer and axle so I’m figuring at least 15 3/8 inches center to center - because as it sits it’s at 17”
Does that sound right!? That would be 15 3/4
To
long side: current at 19” so add 21/4 that’s 211/4” for long side
15 3/8 - 21 1/4
Sound?
Isn't there a 4x4 shop near you with a ramp you can drive up? Wheel parts usually has one. Or find a ditch or berm. I would get a accurate measurement.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
Driving up on those little blocks isn't going to give you any info. Measure the shock mounts pin to pin on level ground, then measure the distance between the bump stop and axle and maybe add 3/4 of an inch +-, and subtract that from the pin to pin measurement. That should get you close to the compression measurement. Then put the suspension in full droop and measure pin to pin for an approx extended length. Or ramp it.
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s***, your totally right - I had a feeling I was gunna hear from someone that 31/2 fingers means dirt squat - 
- I will just try and find a ramp - no I don’t have a 4x4 shop near me unfortunately…I’ll find something or I build a friggen ramp real quick
- I will just try and find a ramp - no I don’t have a 4x4 shop near me unfortunately…I’ll find something or I build a friggen ramp real quick
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
The ramp is called an rti ramp if you want to search the internet. You drive up the ramp till a tire comes off the ground.
If you take the measurements I described frt and rear it should get you close enuff for the proper shocks you need. You'll need some jackstsnds under the frame to get the droop measurements and probably have to remove the tires too. Or take it to the shop you mentioned.
If you take the measurements I described frt and rear it should get you close enuff for the proper shocks you need. You'll need some jackstsnds under the frame to get the droop measurements and probably have to remove the tires too. Or take it to the shop you mentioned.
