Finally - Reassembly - my slow build of "no name" (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jfnall
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
cruisedeisel
Toyota's for life
Starting to look a little too nice! watch out for run away shopping carts.
pistonpete
SILVER Star
Yup, i need those little bumpers as well. Please post what and where you find them if you can.
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2011
- Threads
- 232
- Messages
- 21,769
- Location
- Redding, California
- Website
- trail-tailor.com
They are grommet bumpers. Most hardware stores have them for 2-5$ for a 6-10 pack.
McMaster-Carr or Grainger will have them as well.
J
- Thread starter
- #65
Gonna look at the hardware store for the door handle bumpers. I found the rear tailgate and hatch bumpers at Ace. They fit perfect. I'll get the info on those when when I find the handle bumpers.
Did some door work today. I've decided to go exposed paint above the door cards. Gonna be a little interior design work on the panels but will be worth it. The inner weatherstripping isn't available w/o chrome so i did spittle painting. Here is how the doors look with weatherstripping installed.
And with the glass installed
Funny how the first door took many hours, and the next door took about 30 mins.
I used "3M Scotchpermanent double sided tape" on the 4 mill plastic barrier and it works plastic peels up and lays back down when needed. I did screw up and put into too early.
Did some door work today. I've decided to go exposed paint above the door cards. Gonna be a little interior design work on the panels but will be worth it. The inner weatherstripping isn't available w/o chrome so i did spittle painting. Here is how the doors look with weatherstripping installed.
And with the glass installed
Funny how the first door took many hours, and the next door took about 30 mins.
I used "3M Scotchpermanent double sided tape" on the 4 mill plastic barrier and it works plastic peels up and lays back down when needed. I did screw up and put into too early.
- Thread starter
- #66
What I learned putting the door weatherstripping and glass in..... I add this because up to this point, the door assembly has been the most tricky part of the build. Particularly the the rear door glass and tracks.
On the inner weatherstripping that I painted and going with exposed paint, I had to adjust the tabs a bit to fit in and bend properly into the holes in the door. Took a small die grinder and sanding disk and barely buzzed the tabs on the edges so they are straight, not flaired. Forgot to take a picture of this. Will get one on the next door and add it back to this reply window.
On the front driver door, the inner weatherstripping has to be installed first. Then the front triangle, and rear run channel and front run channel. I put in the glass, the installed the outer weatherstripping last.
On the rear door, I had to get the glass into the door BEFORE installing anything. the fixed window and then brace/track support. i just let the glass sit in the door, but not in the regulator. Then I put in the fixed window brace. Next was the inner weatherstripping , and last the outer weather stripping.
On the inner weatherstripping that I painted and going with exposed paint, I had to adjust the tabs a bit to fit in and bend properly into the holes in the door. Took a small die grinder and sanding disk and barely buzzed the tabs on the edges so they are straight, not flaired. Forgot to take a picture of this. Will get one on the next door and add it back to this reply window.
On the front driver door, the inner weatherstripping has to be installed first. Then the front triangle, and rear run channel and front run channel. I put in the glass, the installed the outer weatherstripping last.
On the rear door, I had to get the glass into the door BEFORE installing anything. the fixed window and then brace/track support. i just let the glass sit in the door, but not in the regulator. Then I put in the fixed window brace. Next was the inner weatherstripping , and last the outer weather stripping.
- Thread starter
- #67
Need an answer on the window run from above. Are the pieces that I have circled designed to be "cut to fit" ? I can't figure out how both the pieces are to fit into the front track for the run weatherstripping, unless I do some cutting. Let me know if you have installed these two pieces before and know the best way to do this.
These two pieces overlap in the channel. Any ideas?
These two pieces overlap in the channel. Any ideas?
- Thread starter
- #68
Started on headlight surrounds. When I disassembled them I realized there was a rubber gasket on the outer edge to keep the plastic from rubbing the paint. Nearby impossible to keep as new and remove to repaint. Did some scouring around and found a part that is Toyota and works almost perfect. The rubber piece shown is from an FJ Cruiser: the piece of rubber on the front end of the hood. Got it through Beno to try, and works awesome.Mir I remember right, it was pretty inexpensive too.
Powdercoated all the parts holding in the headlights. Upgraded to H4 bulbs and new headlight housing lenses. New signal lenses, bolts, and retainers. Paint is a rattle can from O'Reilly.
Powdercoated all the parts holding in the headlights. Upgraded to H4 bulbs and new headlight housing lenses. New signal lenses, bolts, and retainers. Paint is a rattle can from O'Reilly.
- Thread starter
- #69
The rubber bumpers on the tailgate and hatch are no longer available. Found these at the local Ace Hardware. In the miscellaneous parts section. (Lowes did not carry these). Hillman is the brand on the boxes and these are the numbers for the two types. The third is the bumper that is perfect for the door handles. Chevy bumper on the tailgate and Ford bumper on the hatch
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #70
- Thread starter
- #71
And wagongear goodies going back on. Love these products.
Good find on the tailgate bumpers!...got a handful of OEM bumpers from beno a year or so ago...these, like you said, are NLA.
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
This is a great piece of tech! FJ62's have the same looking little rubber around the headlight doors and I was wondering if a replacement was possible. I might have to give this a try. Was it just the one part number for both sides?
- Thread starter
- #74
It is one part number that you order and one piece or rubber that you get. They does both sides. It has a couple sharp elbows in it and I cut it just after the elbow. It only goes on one way to the headlight surrounds. With the piece in-hand, it will make sense. It has a peel off stick-em side. My wife is gone with the FJC so I can run out and take a pic. Will look for one.
Edit:
It is listed as "Protector, Hood bulge #1". $4.27
Not mine, but best pic I could find to describe. The red line I added is the piece you would order.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #75
Need some advice. Trying to make some progress. New regulators came in so I'm trying to nail down the driver door before moving on around the truck. Got some new clips and retainers and bolts too.
The upper window run goes down into the front track. It is felt-like. The front track has a piece of weatherstripping and it is rubber. Need an answer on the window runs in the breakdown. Are the pieces that I have circled designed to be "cut to fit" ? I can't figure out how both the pieces are to fit into the front track for the window run weatherstripping, unless I do some cutting. Let me know if you have installed these two pieces before and know the best way to do this. Would be very unlike Toyota to require any cutting. Advice please.
The part 68141 doesn't go to the bottom of the front track, but 68143 fits the front track perfectly. It's 68141 that I'm asking about the cutting.
The upper window run goes down into the front track. It is felt-like. The front track has a piece of weatherstripping and it is rubber. Need an answer on the window runs in the breakdown. Are the pieces that I have circled designed to be "cut to fit" ? I can't figure out how both the pieces are to fit into the front track for the window run weatherstripping, unless I do some cutting. Let me know if you have installed these two pieces before and know the best way to do this. Would be very unlike Toyota to require any cutting. Advice please.
The part 68141 doesn't go to the bottom of the front track, but 68143 fits the front track perfectly. It's 68141 that I'm asking about the cutting.
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2011
- Threads
- 232
- Messages
- 21,769
- Location
- Redding, California
- Website
- trail-tailor.com
Jeff,
Mine were both two pieces.
Long run stops just below the wedge piece and then the short straight piece starts.
Jason
Mine were both two pieces.
Long run stops just below the wedge piece and then the short straight piece starts.
Jason
- Thread starter
- #77
Thanks Jason. That's what I was looking for. The upper run piece I have will need to be cut off, maybe 8" or so.
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2011
- Threads
- 232
- Messages
- 21,769
- Location
- Redding, California
- Website
- trail-tailor.com
Jeff,
About 2-3" below the wedge is where mine stopped and the straight began.
Jason
About 2-3" below the wedge is where mine stopped and the straight began.
Jason
- Thread starter
- #79
Seems like forever since I have had a chance to work on the 60. Got the headliner sound deadening wool glued in. Started on the new SOR headliner. Anybody got experience with this specific product? I took the rods out and marked them and immediately put them into the correct place on the new headliner. The slots that are sewn in to hold the rods seem to require some trimming. The sides of the HL don't go down far enough on the window and door openings to wrap the opening for glueing. Anyone know if this is for sure the case, to trim the cloth at the end of the rods?
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #80
After some observation, the slots in the SOR headliner (Specter Off Road, for search purposes) for the support rods are WAY too long and it would be impossible to have a proper looking install. So I made an executive decision to cut the new headliner slots for the support rods. Each end needing 3"-4" cut. Kind of disheartening to have to alter a new product, especially one that wasn't exactly cheap. I layed the OEM headliner next to the new one and cut the slots to match the original. I should have not cut the slots over the pillars quite as far. Gear can be trimmed more later if needed. After putting it back up, stretching from the center out, the wrinkles are gone and the headliner will reach the window and door openings for proper glueing. The glueing process won't be a quick process, so I will let it hang for a bit and settle in. Will put up pics later.
Last edited:
