factory rear sliding windows 60 series
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The Rubber seals australia kit comes with new Wedge things for the outside of the frames but i just cleaned up and reused my old ones. The wedges are NLA from toyota, if anyone wants or needs a full set of 8, give me a shout and you can just have mine. They dont have adhesive on them so you can just use the 3m goop that you use to glue the windows in on the wedges to stick them to the frame.
Snicklephritz87
SILVER Star
Did you get them in yet?
I ran out of time tonight. Theyre literally ready to go though. All i need to do is pop my old windows out and put the new windows in on the body of the truck. I would have done at least one tonight but i am still trying to figure out a way to get the old glass out with one person. You need someone on the outside to catch the glass when it releases from the rubber trim seal or it will just drop to the ground. Theres got to be some kind of way i can rig it up to not fall and shatter
Snicklephritz87
SILVER Star
Use masking tape.
I dont think masking tape will support the weight of the whole window
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When I pulled my windows to tackle a couple small rust spots under the seals I used these suction cup hooks, put a couple on each window and tied it to my roof rack.Just make sure there is enough string to let window come out but not drop and pull suction cups off. They held long enough for me to get window out and then go grab it before any disaster happened.
@dbbowen I was worried about the window falling out too, but that never happened. Once you have 872 screwdrivers across the top of the seal it’ll start coming loose. I went down the sides about 1” past the end of the curve. At that point the top seal is past the pinch weld just a hair but the window is still being held in by the rest. I went to the exterior and was able to get a thin pry tool and my fingers on the top edge and start pulling the window out. I folded it down to pull the seals on the edges past the pinch weld, then put as able to lift it straight up and off the bottom part of the seal.
I had an elaborate setup taping the window to my roof rack … didn’t need it.
I had an elaborate setup taping the window to my roof rack … didn’t need it.
oh awesome! It looks like harbor freight has something similar to this as well! I went there yesterday and bought like 8 wood working clamps to clamp the window to the butyl tape haha
huh good to know. Getting the old windows out is the only step left between me and installing these. I might take a crack at one on my lunch break!
Windows are done. I forgot to put the small plastic piece in with the two holes in the center and the wiper fuzz in both windows like an idiot. Windows still function fine, they just tilt when you slide them. At some point ill pull the windows back out to add the forgotten part. What a bummer.
Anyways, install was super straight forward.
In all reality, I just spent a ton of time and money so my dog could stick its head out of the window
Anyways, install was super straight forward.
In all reality, I just spent a ton of time and money so my dog could stick its head out of the window
That's cool. Thanks again for putting this information out there and putting together the group buy. I'm looking forward to doing my own in due time.Windows are done. I forgot to put the small plastic piece in with the two holes in the center and the wiper fuzz in both windows like an idiot. Windows still function fine, they just tilt when you slide them. At some point ill pull the windows back out to add the forgotten part. What a bummer.
Anyways, install was super straight forward.
In all reality, I just spent a ton of time and money so my dog could stick its head out of the window
Uh. Professional tip for anyone doing these. If you have to REMOVE the sliding windows from the truck. Make sure you cut the butyl tape super well. If you pull the frames out at the wrong angle.... the glass will literally just drop out of them. Dont let your dreams be dreams
HUGE THANK YOU to @Skreddy for letting me pull the glass from one of his windows I had at his house to borrow. I was able to remove the old tint from the glass, clean it up, clay bar it, tint it, heat gun the crap out of it from the opposite side of the window to speed up adhesion, and get it back installed into the frame with the missing little wiper thing i forgot to put in all in the same day in just an hour or two. The little bubbles along the edge came out shortly after i took this photo.
I was able to source @Skreddy a brand new oem toyota glass to replace the old used one he loaned me. That one piece of glass cost more than what we paid for the windows without shipping
Lastly, the best way to remove the butyl tape is.... with the butyl tape. You peel some off then use that bit to stick to more of it and peel it off. Youll end up with one giant ball when youre done
HUGE THANK YOU to @Skreddy for letting me pull the glass from one of his windows I had at his house to borrow. I was able to remove the old tint from the glass, clean it up, clay bar it, tint it, heat gun the crap out of it from the opposite side of the window to speed up adhesion, and get it back installed into the frame with the missing little wiper thing i forgot to put in all in the same day in just an hour or two. The little bubbles along the edge came out shortly after i took this photo.
I was able to source @Skreddy a brand new oem toyota glass to replace the old used one he loaned me. That one piece of glass cost more than what we paid for the windows without shipping
Lastly, the best way to remove the butyl tape is.... with the butyl tape. You peel some off then use that bit to stick to more of it and peel it off. Youll end up with one giant ball when youre done
@dbbowen Wait … the glass is available NEW??? 
glad you got this solved for everyone involved even if it cost a lot.
FYI for other folks interested, my glass was incredibly difficult to remove from the frames and there’s zero chance mine would fall out. Brian and I discussed that our frames looked the same but maybe had slightly different tolerances or something. Point being: better to be careful and assume your windows can fall out during install or removal, than assume they won’t and have it happen. And yes, the little tiny “hat” shaped piece with two pieces of felt on it is absolutely necessary. It goes at the top of the post. I thought it was only to wipe water off the tops of the glass, but apparently it must provide some downward pressure on the windows to hold them tight as well. The part number should be in the previous posts I made on this thread.
Here’s an old one
New one positioned on the top of the post (I bought new 80 Series posts and cut them down)
Great tip on using butyl to remove the butyl, that worked for me too. On my glass I used 0000 steel wool to buff out scratches and marrs. You have to apply very little pressure to avoid swirl marks, but it works well to make the scratches go away about 75%.
glad you got this solved for everyone involved even if it cost a lot.FYI for other folks interested, my glass was incredibly difficult to remove from the frames and there’s zero chance mine would fall out. Brian and I discussed that our frames looked the same but maybe had slightly different tolerances or something. Point being: better to be careful and assume your windows can fall out during install or removal, than assume they won’t and have it happen. And yes, the little tiny “hat” shaped piece with two pieces of felt on it is absolutely necessary. It goes at the top of the post. I thought it was only to wipe water off the tops of the glass, but apparently it must provide some downward pressure on the windows to hold them tight as well. The part number should be in the previous posts I made on this thread.
Here’s an old one
New one positioned on the top of the post (I bought new 80 Series posts and cut them down)
Great tip on using butyl to remove the butyl, that worked for me too. On my glass I used 0000 steel wool to buff out scratches and marrs. You have to apply very little pressure to avoid swirl marks, but it works well to make the scratches go away about 75%.
@dbbowen Wait … the glass is available NEW???
FYI for other folks interested, my glass was incredibly difficult to remove from the frames and there’s zero chance mine would fall out. Brian and I discussed that our frames looked the same but maybe had slightly different tolerances or something. Point being: better to be careful and assume your windows can fall out during install or removal, than assume they won’t and have it happen. And yes, the little tiny “hat” shaped piece with two pieces of felt on it is absolutely necessary. It goes at the top of the post. I thought it was only to wipe water off the tops of the glass, but apparently it must provide some downward pressure on the windows to hold them tight as well. The part number should be in the previous posts I made on this thread.
Here’s an old one
View attachment 3489571
New one positioned on the top of the post (I bought new 80 Series posts and cut them down)
View attachment 3489572
Great tip on using butyl to remove the butyl, that worked for me too. On my glass I used 0000 steel wool to buff out scratches and marrs. You have to apply very little pressure to avoid swirl marks, but it works well to make the scratches go away about 75%.
Well. I got it here in the Us from cruiserparts. The driver side glass is available over seas but the passenger side isn’t available. I guess people break the passenger side more or something haha.
The other thing that’s super important is to get that center bar thing right in the small slot in the frames. That helps a lot with the sliding action as well!
@dbbowen Well, that's good to know SOME of it is available. And yeah, the center bar fits exactly into the right spot. It's either in or it's not - the cross-section of the bar is like a figure 8, with the loop ends having a slit in them. There's a metal strip running around the middle of the inside channel of the window, it seperates the two channels that the glass slides in. That metal divider has a brief interruption where the center bar goes, and it actually fits into the slits on each side, left and right, on both top and bottom. It's a very specific fit, or at least it was on mine - I had to spread the frame to get it seated correctly. You'll see the bar is exactly parallel to the edge of the glass when it's right.
The group buy already took place but maybe someone has an extra setup?
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2014
- Messages
- 397
Darn it. if there is an extra set I’ll take it. Thanks
Skreddy
SILVER Star
@dbbowen @CruiserTrash @red66toy: whoever answers first. Was 15’ of the 3m butyl tape enough for both windows? I’m hoping to get my windows installed in the next week or so but I’m not where I can measure the opening right now and wanted to get the butyl tape ordered.
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
I ordered two 15’ rolls
