2023 update & install write up: warning long post or two ahead.
I got my original Toyota sliding windows from Australia a year ago (maybe more) and just sat on them, other projects always got in the way. As of today they are installed so I thought I’d list some part numbers and give tips & tricks on the install process.
My wife & I refurbed the windows to the best of our ability before attempting to put them in. They had 35+ years of Aussie rust collected in the bottom of the channels. First we removed the windows and took things apart.
1. Remove screw on top of center post
2. One person grabs the frame and pulls the top& bottom apart, while the helper - my partner in this case - pulls the glass out. One side then the other. It helps to add a little twist to the frame to allow a little more clearance on whichever side you’re removing glass from.
3. Pull the frame apart again and get the center post out.
4. Pull out the double window run (aka “Bailey channel”).
Save this.
5. Pull off the rubber wedges from the exterior edge, bottom and sides.
SAVE THESE, they aren’t available from Toyota and I couldn’t find anything exactly like them.
Three rubber wedges along the bottom edge.
Take lots of photos of everything, like this one that was supposed to help me remember the orientation of the center post. Yes, they’re directional. They’re actually cut with a slight bevel top and bottom so that helps.
At this point it’s time to clean and paint:
1. Use scraping tools, scotch brite, brake cleaner, and good old rubbing with your thumb to get all the old butyl rubber off. This was
very time consuming. Maybe a wire brush on a cordless drill would be faster but that felt too aggressive to me.
2. Scrape flaking rust. This also takes a while especially inside the channels. Small flathead screwdriver & a dental pick were out friends. We got fairly aggressive here.
3. Wire brush. Get inside the channels and on any rust spots real well. Rust can form on the sides as well, where the two halves of the frame are welded together - both inside and outside.
4. Scotch brite pad everything, even painted areas - the face, the back, the channels, the perimeter. I skimmed the face with 400 grit sandpaper to level out areas where the paint had flakes off, too.
5. We did three rounds of Ospho rust converter before I felt like it looked pretty good. Each time it left a gummy residue behind that was easily wiped away with water. After the final round I wiped with a wet rag, then a brake cleaner rag, then blew them dry with shop air.
6. Three coats Rustoleum Profession red oxide primer and 72 hours dry time.
7. Three coats Smart brand satin black enamel with 96 hours dry time.
Ospho’d frames hung to dry overnight. It really does turn the rust black as it converts iron oxide to iron phosphate.
Primed
Painted
Now the rebuilding part begins. I messed up the paint between here and install, but in hindsight that’s probably to be expected. I’ll do a final finish coat on the face of the frames at some point to clean things up.
Toyota part numbers:
67046-60010 Center post L
67045-60010 Center post R
90159-30005 x2 Center post screws
62729-90K01 x2 Center post pad
62910-95703 x4 Lock, interior side
62249-95700 x4 Pad for interior lock
62793-95794 x4 Handle, exterior side
62729-90K00 x4 Pad for exterior handle
Edit, found the latch screws: 90164-40050 x8 Latch screw
Other parts:
•Scott’s Old Rubber 350.117 x 6 meters
->the “Bailey channel”, had 41” leftover
•Junkyard edge trim/welting/windlass
->goes by different names, almost all Toyotas & Subarus prior to about 1994 have it around the edge of the door openings
•
D-shaped rubber weatherstrip, sticky back
•
3M Ribbon Sealer, 1/4 “Window Welt” 15'
->used to be part number 08620, but I was told that recently changed - I believe to 08610
[parts might be affected by the promising kit that
@dbbowen is looking at]
I don’t know if the Toyota parts are all 80 Series parts or what, but my local dealer had them all in two days. I have not gotten the exterior handles yet (essentially the external retainer that the interior lock screws to, through holes in the glass), but the p/n is verified and on its way. The “center post pad” I’ll come back to later, that’s an oddball.
The center posts themselves need to be cut down appx. 1/2”. Just put your old ones next to the new ones, mark, and cut with a dremel. My original center posts were raw aluminum and the new ones are satin black. The new ones come with all three weatherstrip seals pre-installed, plus a little small extra piece of it at the top that was present on my original posts, the curvature and the extrusion shape are 100% identical. Super easy drop in replacement, no ordering of “caterpillar fur” weatherstrip inserts or any of that.
Center post comparison:
Junkyard edge trim/welting/windlass below. U-shaped edge trim with metal core and rubber coating. Whatever you use for this must have a metal core or hold very tight, it’s 50% responsible for holding the windows to the body. The other 50% is the 3M butyl ribbon sealer. The color doesn’t match my truck so I’ll try to find an off-white product later. This got me through the job.
I’m jumping ahead here - we’ll get to the install process on the next post - but this is the “d-shaped” weatherstrip shown on the edge of the window. The small rubber piece will come up later.
