factory rear sliding windows 60 series (2 Viewers)

[Spook50]

@red66toy resurrecting an old thread here as I'm just now getting around to refurbing my windows. My frames needed some light rust mitigation inside the tracks so I removed the glass. It wasn't easy. How have you folks reinstalled the glass in the frames? Just go full Hulk and spread the frame by hand while somebody else sneaks the glass in?

I removed it by cutting out the "bailey channel" so the windows had a ton of play, and the Hulk method was still pretty difficult. Once I install the new bailey channel there's no way the glass is going back in that way. Or else just need to start lifting weights first. Anybody have tips or tricks for this?

I remember when I did my windows prior to installation, I had the center divider's top screws removed and spread the frame just barely enough to get each glass pane into the center (where I could spread it the farthest without damaging the frame). Then it's just a matter of reinstalling the top screws in the center divider. the same method would work for removing the glass as well.

A piece of advice is make sure before installation that the center divider's curve radius matches the glass EXACTLY. This will help mitigate outside noise coming into the cabin.

 

[LazarusTaxa]

What seal are you all using between the window and the body? I know the original is NLA..

 

[CruiserTrash]

What seal are you all using between the window and the body? I know the original is NLA..

Above Chase recommended "3M 08620 Window-Weld 1/4" x 15' Round Ribbon Sealer Roll" - so a butyl ribbon type of thing. I believe that goes between the back side of the window frame up against the pinch weld/flange. There's also a seal on the edge of the window itself, around the top edge and wrapping down the sides by about 2" (that's how it was on the windows I got). Looks like a stick-on D-shaped rubber weather stripping does the job there. Somebody else further upthread also looks like they installed the rubber gasket from the fixed windows around and behind the sliding window frame - complete with chrome strip and all. Not much detail provided with that though.

@Spook50 That's how I removed them, so I'll just start lifting weights now so I can spread the frame far enough to get the glass back in. Regarding the center divider, I'll make sure that's good to go when I'm putting them back together. The existing ones are in fair shape and I have a pair of center dividers from the 80 Series windows on the way. We'll see how well the curvature matches.

 

[red66toy]

Timely bump! I just took a set apart! Definitely the butyl between the frame and the cruiser body. But there is a second rubber strip around the top and edges. I’ll get some measurements again.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Timely bump! I just took a set apart! Definitely the butyl between the frame and the cruiser body. But there is a second rubber strip around the top and edges. I’ll get some measurements again.
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How far was that stuff wrapped around? @NookShneer posted years ago that his was wrapped all along the top AND the front edge. Mine was only wrapped on the top edge, and it came down the curve about 1-2” onto the sides. Just wondering what Toyota was doing here.

Frames got wiped down to get rid of any excess phosphoric acid from the Ospho, then cleaned with water, compressed air, and a light wipe with brake cleaner. Then I primed them. I made sure to hit the inside of the track on the bottom from multiple angles since that’s where it’s rusting. I also did the face since I sanded that pretty good, as well as the edges since there was some rust there. Debating whether to find a nice matte or satin metallic charcoal spray paint for the top coat, or if I should do chrome adhesive tape (like on the grille). I love the chrome lock strip on the window and am kind of bummed I would be losing that.

The Scott’s Old Rubber 350.117 channel arrived yesterday too. It came rolled up flat so I was confused for a few minutes before realizing it gets bent into shape as it gets pressed into the frames. The fit is 100% perfect and the flocking is nice and soft. I got 6m for about $100 shipped. Pricey, but at least I don’t have to fool around with returning it, modifying it, etc - it’s the right stuff.

 

[red66toy]

How far was that stuff wrapped around? @NookShneer posted years ago that his was wrapped all along the top AND the front edge. Mine was only wrapped on the top edge, and it came down the curve about 1-2” onto the sides. Just wondering what Toyota was doing here.

Frames got wiped down to get rid of any excess phosphoric acid from the Ospho, then cleaned with water, compressed air, and a light wipe with brake cleaner. Then I primed them. I made sure to hit the inside of the track on the bottom from multiple angles since that’s where it’s rusting. I also did the face since I sanded that pretty good, as well as the edges since there was some rust there. Debating whether to find a nice matte or satin metallic charcoal spray paint for the top coat, or if I should do chrome adhesive tape (like on the grille). I love the chrome lock strip on the window and am kind of bummed I would be losing that.

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The Scott’s Old Rubber 350.117 channel arrived yesterday too. It came rolled up flat so I was confused for a few minutes before realizing it gets bent into shape as it gets pressed into the frames. The fit is 100% perfect and the flocking is nice and soft. I got 6m for about $100 shipped. Pricey, but at least I don’t have to fool around with returning it, modifying it, etc - it’s the right stuff.

With this pair that is correct! On the top and then just down a couple inches on both ends. But on my pair I did a few years ago the original rubber wrapped around the front edge entirely! I think there were variations in these sliders over the years just within the 60 series.

 

[dbbowen]

Above Chase recommended "3M 08620 Window-Weld 1/4" x 15' Round Ribbon Sealer Roll" - so a butyl ribbon type of thing. I believe that goes between the back side of the window frame up against the pinch weld/flange. There's also a seal on the edge of the window itself, around the top edge and wrapping down the sides by about 2" (that's how it was on the windows I got). Looks like a stick-on D-shaped rubber weather stripping does the job there. Somebody else further upthread also looks like they installed the rubber gasket from the fixed windows around and behind the sliding window frame - complete with chrome strip and all. Not much detail provided with that though.

@Spook50 That's how I removed them, so I'll just start lifting weights now so I can spread the frame far enough to get the glass back in. Regarding the center divider, I'll make sure that's good to go when I'm putting them back together. The existing ones are in fair shape and I have a pair of center dividers from the 80 Series windows on the way. We'll see how well the curvature matches.

yeah i was wondering about that pic with the chrome trim myself. I am wondering how they kept the chrome trim on their windows because id like to keep mine as well

 

[dbbowen]

How far was that stuff wrapped around? @NookShneer posted years ago that his was wrapped all along the top AND the front edge. Mine was only wrapped on the top edge, and it came down the curve about 1-2” onto the sides. Just wondering what Toyota was doing here.

Frames got wiped down to get rid of any excess phosphoric acid from the Ospho, then cleaned with water, compressed air, and a light wipe with brake cleaner. Then I primed them. I made sure to hit the inside of the track on the bottom from multiple angles since that’s where it’s rusting. I also did the face since I sanded that pretty good, as well as the edges since there was some rust there. Debating whether to find a nice matte or satin metallic charcoal spray paint for the top coat, or if I should do chrome adhesive tape (like on the grille). I love the chrome lock strip on the window and am kind of bummed I would be losing that.

View attachment 3428149
View attachment 3428150

The Scott’s Old Rubber 350.117 channel arrived yesterday too. It came rolled up flat so I was confused for a few minutes before realizing it gets bent into shape as it gets pressed into the frames. The fit is 100% perfect and the flocking is nice and soft. I got 6m for about $100 shipped. Pricey, but at least I don’t have to fool around with returning it, modifying it, etc - it’s the right stuff.

Did you paint this red?

 

[CruiserTrash]

Did you paint this red?

That's just primer, although is has a really great satin "glow" to it. Almost exactly what I would want the topcoat sheen to be if I don't go with chrome tape. The primer is Rustoleum Professional oxide red - I swear by the Rustoleum Pro stuff. Both of my bumpers are done in the gloss black and it's held up well for several years, including banging them off rocks and stuff. Thinking if I paint it, I'll get that dark charcoal metallic like the D-pillar vents originally were, and then go ahead and spray those at the same time.

Regarding the guy who posted the photo of the lock strip a few years ago - looks like he just stuffed the fixed window rubber behind the cargo window frame. I'd be worried the frame wouldn't fully seat against the pinch weld flange doing it that way.

 

[dbbowen]

FYI. For anyone looking in the future…. You don’t need to piece together rubber for these windows. Rubber seals Australia has all of the rebuild parts and even sells it in a kit. You can actually get a kit that contains every single rubber weatherstrip throughout the whole vehicle if you need it.

Here’s. Link to just the slider windows.

Sliding Cargo Window Rubber Seal Kit (Does 2 Windows L/H & R/H) Suits Toyota FJ60 | Rubber Seals Australia

rubbersealsaustralia.com

Going to order a kit here soon for myself and anyone in my group buy for sliding windows. If anyone wants to put an order in with ours feel free to pm me. We can cut the shipping cost down by ordering a bunch of them and splitting cost

 

[87CRUSR]

FYI. For anyone looking in the future…. You don’t need to piece together rubber for these windows. Rubber seals Australia has all of the rebuild parts and even sells it in a kit. You can actually get a kit that contains every single rubber weatherstrip throughout the whole vehicle if you need it.

Here’s. Link to just the slider windows.

Sliding Cargo Window Rubber Seal Kit (Does 2 Windows L/H & R/H) Suits Toyota FJ60 | Rubber Seals Australia

rubbersealsaustralia.com

Going to order a kit here soon for myself and anyone in my group buy for sliding windows. If anyone wants to put an order in with ours feel free to pm me. We can cut the shipping cost down by ordering a bunch of them and splitting cost

Definitely interested in this group buy opportunity. Count me in.

 

[dbbowen]

Definitely interested in this group buy opportunity. Count me in.

So the group buy for the actual windows is full unfortunately. Were you looking for just the rubber kits? Have a look on the site. The prices are actually pretty competitive. They have all the window and door moldings too and the little clips

 

[87CRUSR]

So the group buy for the actual windows is full unfortunately. Were you looking for just the rubber kits? Have a look on the site. The prices are actually pretty competitive. They have all the window and door moldings too and the little clips

Rubber seal kit is of interest.

 

[dbbowen]

Rubber seal kit is of interest.

Sure thing man. Shoot me a pm. I’ve emailed them to inquire about shipping. Should hear back sometime soon

 

[87CRUSR]

Pm sent

 

[dbbowen]

The supplier is also working on making us some inner seals as well for the inside of the truck, looks like theyll be about $10 or so per side

 

[CruiserTrash]

2023 update & install write up: warning long post or two ahead.

I got my original Toyota sliding windows from Australia a year ago (maybe more) and just sat on them, other projects always got in the way. As of today they are installed so I thought I’d list some part numbers and give tips & tricks on the install process.

My wife & I refurbed the windows to the best of our ability before attempting to put them in. They had 35+ years of Aussie rust collected in the bottom of the channels. First we removed the windows and took things apart.
1. Remove screw on top of center post
2. One person grabs the frame and pulls the top& bottom apart, while the helper - my partner in this case - pulls the glass out. One side then the other. It helps to add a little twist to the frame to allow a little more clearance on whichever side you’re removing glass from.
3. Pull the frame apart again and get the center post out.
4. Pull out the double window run (aka “Bailey channel”). Save this.
5. Pull off the rubber wedges from the exterior edge, bottom and sides. SAVE THESE, they aren’t available from Toyota and I couldn’t find anything exactly like them.

Three rubber wedges along the bottom edge.

Take lots of photos of everything, like this one that was supposed to help me remember the orientation of the center post. Yes, they’re directional. They’re actually cut with a slight bevel top and bottom so that helps.

At this point it’s time to clean and paint:
1. Use scraping tools, scotch brite, brake cleaner, and good old rubbing with your thumb to get all the old butyl rubber off. This was very time consuming. Maybe a wire brush on a cordless drill would be faster but that felt too aggressive to me.
2. Scrape flaking rust. This also takes a while especially inside the channels. Small flathead screwdriver & a dental pick were out friends. We got fairly aggressive here.
3. Wire brush. Get inside the channels and on any rust spots real well. Rust can form on the sides as well, where the two halves of the frame are welded together - both inside and outside.
4. Scotch brite pad everything, even painted areas - the face, the back, the channels, the perimeter. I skimmed the face with 400 grit sandpaper to level out areas where the paint had flakes off, too.
5. We did three rounds of Ospho rust converter before I felt like it looked pretty good. Each time it left a gummy residue behind that was easily wiped away with water. After the final round I wiped with a wet rag, then a brake cleaner rag, then blew them dry with shop air.
6. Three coats Rustoleum Profession red oxide primer and 72 hours dry time.
7. Three coats Smart brand satin black enamel with 96 hours dry time.

Ospho’d frames hung to dry overnight. It really does turn the rust black as it converts iron oxide to iron phosphate.

Primed

Painted

Now the rebuilding part begins. I messed up the paint between here and install, but in hindsight that’s probably to be expected. I’ll do a final finish coat on the face of the frames at some point to clean things up.

Toyota part numbers:
67046-60010 Center post L
67045-60010 Center post R
90159-30005 x2 Center post screws
62729-90K01 x2 Center post pad
62910-95703 x4 Lock, interior side
62249-95700 x4 Pad for interior lock
62793-95794 x4 Handle, exterior side
62729-90K00 x4 Pad for exterior handle
Edit, found the latch screws: 90164-40050 x8 Latch screw

Other parts:
•Scott’s Old Rubber 350.117 x 6 meters
->the “Bailey channel”, had 41” leftover
•Junkyard edge trim/welting/windlass
->goes by different names, almost all Toyotas & Subarus prior to about 1994 have it around the edge of the door openings
•D-shaped rubber weatherstrip, sticky back
•3M Ribbon Sealer, 1/4 “Window Welt” 15'
->used to be part number 08620, but I was told that recently changed - I believe to 08610

[parts might be affected by the promising kit that @dbbowen is looking at]

I don’t know if the Toyota parts are all 80 Series parts or what, but my local dealer had them all in two days. I have not gotten the exterior handles yet (essentially the external retainer that the interior lock screws to, through holes in the glass), but the p/n is verified and on its way. The “center post pad” I’ll come back to later, that’s an oddball. The center posts themselves need to be cut down appx. 1/2”. Just put your old ones next to the new ones, mark, and cut with a dremel. My original center posts were raw aluminum and the new ones are satin black. The new ones come with all three weatherstrip seals pre-installed, plus a little small extra piece of it at the top that was present on my original posts, the curvature and the extrusion shape are 100% identical. Super easy drop in replacement, no ordering of “caterpillar fur” weatherstrip inserts or any of that.

Center post comparison:

Junkyard edge trim/welting/windlass below. U-shaped edge trim with metal core and rubber coating. Whatever you use for this must have a metal core or hold very tight, it’s 50% responsible for holding the windows to the body. The other 50% is the 3M butyl ribbon sealer. The color doesn’t match my truck so I’ll try to find an off-white product later. This got me through the job.

I’m jumping ahead here - we’ll get to the install process on the next post - but this is the “d-shaped” weatherstrip shown on the edge of the window. The small rubber piece will come up later.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Post two

Reassembly time:

1. Installing the Bailey channel isn’t difficult, but it is time consuming. Look at the original piece you saved and note that there are cutouts in the following places: center post top and bottom, one of the latches on the side, all of the weep holes in the bottom. The cuts made are different for each one of these - we’re not cutting the damn thing in half, just surgical cuts. I even used a scalpel (an exacto knife to be honest). The center post cuts will be made where the metal strip that divides the channels is cut and folded flat (it’s the smaller folded down part!). The Scotts’s Old Rubber piece is slightly wider on one side - I’m talking less than a millimeter- but the inboard channel in the frame is also just a hair wider, so I oriented the Bailey channel to match. I started it near the top on the side (don’t want the seam at the bottom), and worked my way around stuffing it in. It takes a little work but it fits in the corners beautifully with no wrinkles. When I go to a spot that needed a cut I’d do a dry fit, pull it back out to cut, then push it in again to test. Sometimes I needed to pull it back out and take a little more off. For the weep holes I stuck the whole channel in the bottom, made slits through each hole, took it all out and cut it, then reinstalled. The cut around the lock latch is tricky. It needs more taken off than you think otherwise it won’t stuff down into the channel all the way.

Metal strip dividing the two channels cut and folded flat by Toyota during manufacturing. This is where the center post goes on the top and bottom. The extrusion of the post has a hole on L & R sides and it almost keys into the metal divider. There’s a larger piece cut and folded - only on one of my frames. The center post only fits in the smaller space, no clue what the larger flap was cut for. Bailey channel gets cut to allow the post to go into that space.

2. With the Bailey channel in, time to get the center posts in. Start at the top first. The post ends are beveled the same way the frame “leans” so that will help with figuring out orientation. They also come with a small extra flap of weatherstrip that’s about 1/4” long, and that goes up. On the very top of the post sits the “center post pad” I mentioned earlier. This is a channel-shaped plastic piece with furry stuff on it. There are two holes in this piece that align with the two holes of the center post extrusion. That all gets put upwards towards the top of the frame. The screw that holds the post on goes through the frame, through the hole in the “pad”, and into one of the holes in the center post extrusion. Check the old center post to see which extrusion hole the screw goes into - you don’t have an option here because the post needs to be aligned correctly. The hole will have marks from the screw to get you on track.

Pad thing on top of the center post pictured below. This end goes to the top of the frame. I assume the furry parts (which are facing away from the camera) wipe the top edge of the window as you open and close it, preventing any latent moisture from coming into the cab. I don’t know, it’s an oddball piece.

Here’s the old one.

Putting the pad and top in first is a tight squeeze because of the Bailey channel, took me a few tries. Then get the screw into the top, making sure it catches the pad and hits the proper hole on the center post extrusion. Use a flashlight and make SURE the screw is gonna hit the holes other wise the whole post will be misaligned. Get the bottom of the post into either channel and somewhat close to where it goes, but then leave it - we’ll come back for that.

3. Install one pane of glass, whichever one the bottom of the center post won’t interfere with. It didn’t seem to matter which we tried first, it was difficult. One frame was easier than the other on the whole, but neither were “easy”. We ended up clamping the bottom of the frame to a workbench, then I got on the workbench, squatted down and grabbed the top of the frame and lifted up with my legs - a big squat. The pad taking up extra space in the top of the channel made it seem easier to start the glass in the bottom first. A little twisting action on the frame helped get 2-3mm extra clearence. Karen got the rounded edge of the glass started into the channel and we walked it across until the entire top side popped in. There’s definitely some left-right placement that helps too. At one position it felt tighter getting the glass in, but we backed off and slid it around an inch or two until we found a spot where it seemed closer to going in.

4. Now spread the frame again while your helper gets the bottom of the center post in place. Like I said before the holes on either side of the extrusion should slot over that piece of metal that separates the channels.

5. Repeat glass install for the 2nd piece.

FYI here’s a misaligned center post. I put the bottom into the bigger gap in the metal dividing the channels. It needs to go in the gap that’s perfectly sized for it. No clue what the bigger gap was for - factory mistake? And yes we had to pull this whole thing apart again.

6. I was able able to get the glass into the other frame myself by grabbing the frame in my fist and pushing the glass the opposite direction with my thumbs. No idea why one window was easier than the other.

7. Latches are pretty self explanatory. Pop two screws out and note how it goes together. Replace the same way with new parts. No tricks here.

Install time

1. First we need to remove the fixed glass windows. I was pretty worried about this, but got some guidance from friends and it turned out to be easy even working alone. Start by getting every plastic pry bar and flathead screwdriver you own. Now go borrow some more from your neighbor and then crawl in the cargo area. Start pushing them all underneath the inside lip of the gasket across the top. I went about 1-2” around the corner and down both sides before I could start seeing daylight through a gap at the top.

(The blue tape is an elaborate system I used to make sure the window wouldn’t just flip out and smash on the ground - I didn’t need it at all)

2. Grab a bucket to stand on and go to the outside of the window - skip the bucket if you’re really tall. Bring one plastic pry bar too. Grab along the top edge of the window where the gap is forming and start working it loose. Work down both sides. Use the pry bar if you have to. At some point the whole thing gets loose and you can lift it off the bottom. I did NOT remove my chrome lock strip and it came out undamaged and in place.

The paint underneath the gasket was fresh as the day the truck left the factory.

3. I prepped the opening by cutting the headliner back where necessary. I left it wrapped around the edge of the pinch weld by 1/8” but cut it where it was wrapped more. The 3M ribbon sealer goes up against the pinch weld and I didn’t want the headliner exposed beyond that because it could wick water inside. I also cleaned the opening with some windex. I left the headliner contact cement.

4. Window prep. I put the D-shaped weatherstripped on the outer edge of the frames at the top and wrapping down about halfway on the sides. Some people only come down an inch or two on the sides. The further towards the inboard side you stick it the better it will look once the windows are in. Too far towards the outside and the strip will just want to squeeze out and look ugly. I also stuck the wedges - remember those? - back where they were originally. I used a little bit of the 3M ribbon to put three along the bottom and one on each side. The bottom ones space the frame off the bodywork so the weep holes can do their job. The ones one the side, I don’t know, maybe they prevent back and forth movement? Get these far to the inboard side as well. Some of my wedges broke so I used some spacers that came in the box of 3M ribbon. Had to cut them in thirds, but they worked fine.

First window - I should have put both of these more inboard.

5. Run the 3M ribbon sealer around the pinch weld

6. The actual install… what seemed to work best for me was starting with the top edge of the frame in the opening and then pushing up while I squeezed the bottom edge in. Once the window was roughly in the opening and getting a little tight the d-shaped weatherstripping started squeezing out. I pushed in with a flat plastic tool and a small flathead, kind of annoying and time consuming. The wedges all want to come out too, so I pried up on the frame and pushed those further back in with a small flathead as well. Just get it to where the window feels like it will stay by itself. You’ll have to push it into the body pretty hard.

7. Then open the windows up, you need the access. Using a quick clamp with rubber pads, start clamping every couple inches between the back/interior side of the pinch weld and the outside of the frame. This will snug the window & pinch weld together and start squeezing the 3M butyl ribbon for a good seal.

8. Now the edge trim stuff goes on. I bet you were wondering why there was a third channel on the window, right? All that is is a flange that mates with pinch weld, so the edge trim can go over both and hold them together.

Just work that stuff all the way around making sure it gets into the corners real good. A rubber mallet and some kind of rod to hit help here. I had to clean up some excess butyl in a few spots before I put the trim on, but otherwise this was easy. Once it’s nice and tight … that’s it, the window is installed!

 

[CruiserTrash]

Post three: glamor shots

All in this took me four hours of time cleaning and rebuilding the windows and three hours today for the final glass removal and install. I’m sure somebody who had ANY prior experience would go faster. Here’s how they look:

They look like they belong. Glass opens and closes fine but is a little tight. I hope that as I use them the Bailey channel breaks in a little bit. Otherwise I’d call this a two banana job that’s definitely worth the time.

Cheers to everyone up above in this thread for the legwork and guidance, especially @red66toy and @NookShneer. Hopefully my posts clarify stuff for people doing this in the future.

 

[CruiserTrash]

More pictures for clarification


Original “Bailey channel” was cut in the corners to bend properly - and coincidentally, or not, there was a lot of rust inside the frame in the lower corners. The Scott’s Old Rubber 350.117 piece did NOT need this treatment, it turned the corners beautifully. You can see a little of how corroded these frames were too.

Exterior lock “handle” and pad

Interior lock and “pad”. The pad is just a black sticker - the purpose seems to be obscuring how the lock works when looking at it from the outside, maybe to deter theft. Screws come from inside, go through holes in the glass, and catch the exterior handle to hold it all together.

Can anybody confirm that the lock stuff is identical to an 80 Series?

Rubber wedges close up. Not sure what I was pointing at…

Top of the center post showing the extra little rubber piece. This was on the new center posts I got, but because they are black it’s harder to photograph. Also note that the trailing edge weather strip (left side in this photo) is cut about 1/4” down from the top - it’s also like that on the bottom. You have to do this to get it to fit correctly!

Here’s the shape of the center post extrusion showing the holes on either end and how the three weatherstrip pieces slot in. Remember the metal divider between the two channels on the frame? The area where that’s cut and folded is just wide enough that when you put the center post over it the metal divider fits into these holes - it’s tight. Also notice that the hole closest to the camera has marks from the screw going into it - by comparing that to the new post, it was helpful in getting the orientation correct.

D-shaped weatherstrip around the perimeter shown squeezing out with the window only halfway seated in the opening. Took probably 15-20 minutes on each side to work this back in so it wasn’t coming out past the frame. Smaller weatherstrip might have helped, but the gap between frame and opening isn’t exactly even all the way around - one corner is tighter than the other, and the sides have much more room than the top. I had smaller stuff on hand but went with the larger to ensure no water could get in, maybe to my detriment in having to stuff it all back in.

Example weep hole cuts. You’re only cutting the Bailey channel where absolutely necessary.

Kind of sad to lose the sticker window, but worth it for sliding windows. It lives on as a shop decoration.