ESME - 98 REBUILD (7 Viewers)

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All things considered, unless some super material comes out of left field, it is probably easier to just carry one of these:

Z-3CH0fo5oy.webp
 
spressomon said:
All things considered, unless some super material comes out of left field, it is probably easier to just carry one of these:

View attachment 1340292
Click to expand...


D,

I think I will just keep the lid plain aluminum or have Andrea make the carpet overlay....

I spoke to my friend and he said the other material he is sending (HydroTurf) is a little stronger/tougher but.. will do the same thing. I inquired about GatorStep and AMD (Aqua Marine Deck) he said he used GatorStep once and was the most expensive mistake he ever made. The AMD he's never used.

J
 
Damn nice work on the bumpers! Good info on the foam. I haven't played around much with the Gatorstep, but if it's that wimpy no thanks! I just got back from the hospital after having a surgery, so it will be a short while until I can get around. But I'll scratch it up and report back!
 
TrekboxX said:
Damn nice work on the bumpers! Good info on the foam. I haven't played around much with the Gatorstep, but if it's that wimpy no thanks! I just got back from the hospital after having a surgery, so it will be a short while until I can get around. But I'll scratch it up and report back!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the compliment on the bumpers.

He said the adhesive backing wouldn't stick to the aluminum hull and they recommended he use brand XYZ glue and the material absorbed the glue and left hard trail beads that his customer could feel while walking in the boat. When he let the people at GatorStep know about it they said it must have been bad glue and he needed to take the issue up with the glue mfg...

He never said anything about the toughness of the material, but if they are that type of company.....no thanks.

J
 
EMPTY-- stock (ALL MEASUREMENTS ARE FROM CENTER HUB TO FENDER)

F-DS 19.0"
F-PS 19.0"
R-DS 21.0"
R-PS 21.0"


Rear bumper installed w/ 75mm TourFlex and approx 120# in cargo area (tomorrow I'll try and get to the front)
F-DS 19.5
F-PS 19.5
R-DS 24.0"
R-PS 24.0"

I'm still 340# shy of my rated spring design. I have the roof rack (75#), RTT (120#) and loaded drawers (250#) still to add ( then remove about 70# from the test rear.... In my estimation the rear will end up at 23.0-23.5" fully loaded and hope to see the front at the 21.5/22.0" mark.

J

Stock and TourFlex

IMG_20161024_083749422.webp


TourFlex rear installed

IMG_20161024_102950707.webp


Dual rate spring stack up

IMG_20161024_103127119.webp


Stance pre-front mods

IMG_20161024_113538363.webp



Front ready for new TD bars, strengthening brackets and 53mm bore shocks. ( Front bumper and 12.5 winch as well)

J

IMG_20161024_114046802.webp
 
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I broke a brake line during the install. So I will splice the break with a SS SwageLok coupler until the new OEM full line is delivered. I was a little aggressive.. my fault, but glad the weak link showed itself now instead of on the road somewhere else......

The OEM shocks I pulled off were completely shot (I'd say they are the originals with 183K on them). No pressure at all remaining. Just the weight of the shock and they would start extending.

The TD 45mm adjustables are a twin tube, 9 stage foam cell design.

Front TB and shock bolts are soaking in Kroil and will try to get the front installed tomorrow along with the front bumper and winch.

J
 
reevesci said:
Made a few calls and seems no one wants to sell me a diff drop.... SO.. I'll build my own! :flipoff2:

So... you know what I say... Build one... build a few more.....

J
Click to expand...

I think you should use this philosophy to make me one of your rear bumpers!
Im already a loyal customer with a tailgate storage lid on its way ... c'mon you know I'm good for it! :D
 
Tough Dog HD torsions vs OEM

33mm vs 29.5mm

Strengthening brackets installed. I asked about these when they added them to my kit. TD has noticed a considerable failure rate without these brackets. Basically a nice little insurance policy, if you will.

I wanted to see how high I could crank these without re-indexing and still get the required 60mm droop recommended by TD... 24.375" center of hub to fender and right at 60mm droop.

I ran them back down and currently I'm sitting at 21.875" center hub to fender, loaded with bumper and winch and have a 70mm droop. I still need to run the suspension and adjust if needed. (brake line still needs to be repaired.....)

So the current stance with the HD TourFlex rear suspension is Front 21.875" and Rear 23.75" (I still need to add the final accessories/weight to see how the rate/design specs work out)

I will also be making my own diff drop....

J



IMG_20161025_085658731.webp
IMG_20161025_085715330.webp
IMG_20161025_103542601.webp
 
Why not put OEM UCAs back on?

Just asking. Not to start anything. I know at a later date I will need them but got damn near 200k out of the set on the rig.
 
holy crap Jason, I never visit the 100 section! That's a nice truck you got. Will be following this thread on here too. Always thinking of a 100 as well.
 
Bomar said:
Why not put OEM UCAs back on?

Just asking. Not to start anything. I know at a later date I will need them but got damn near 200k out of the set on the rig.
Click to expand...


I'm at the top of the lift spectrum with this rig. The OEM arms are at the extreme limits with this set up, IMO. If I were staying with a 2" or shorter setup, I wouldn't hesitate running stock OEM arms.

Just a few details from Nitro @just differentials...

J

The short-comings of OEM 100 Series IFS:
In 1998 Toyota released the all new 100 series Land Cruiser to replace its solid axle 80 series models. While providing a much smoother ride and better handling on the road, the IFS proved to be very limited in suspension travel. Most lift kits for the IFS setup simply raise the front end by means of adjusting/replacing the torsion bars which actually reduces overall down-travel. This is the result of aftermarket suspension kits only utilizing stock length shocks.

Driving over rough roads and potholes compounds this problem as the pre-loaded suspension, with fully extend shocks, has no more room for shock travel resulting in poor ride quality and premature shock failure. The only way to improve suspension travel is to run longer than stock shocks. The factory upper control arms also become a limiter as they will contact the shock body if using longer shocks. With a raised suspension height, the OEM upper ball-joint is forced to operate at an extreme angle and wider tires many times will not clear the factory upper control arms. The OEM ball-joint also has a potential to separate if a stock length shock were to break, leading to catastrophic failure of suspension, steering, and CV axle. Also, The OEM upper Ball joint is not sold separately so you must buy the whole arms, which cost more than the pair of our heavy duty extended travel Ball-joint type arms available here. As an added benefit our arms accept the the Tundra type ball joint (as they are more common), they can be replaced with joints available at nearly any auto part store.

The Solution:
- To solve the extreme ball joint angle of the stock arms the ball-joint cup is clocked to run level on vehicles with 2-3" additional ride height.
- With the proper shock setup, this allows up to 50% increase in down travel over OE/Aftermarket suspension kits that use OE length shocks. (we offer these)
- The arms are 100% BOLT-ON and fit in the stock tapered ball-joint location in spindle. That's right no drilling, no welding, no tapping. Arms allow for proper alignment.
- They are also fully serviceable, as the bushings and ball-joints can easily be replaced. The ball joints and upper bushings include zerk fittings for quiet squeak-free operation.
- Made in USA, TIG Welded, Chromoly DOM tubing for strength versus the flimsy OEM stamped steel arms.
- This design allows for a lower profile, thus providing additional clearance for larger tires, and/or larger/ longer shocks.
- The arms utilize a sealed 2007 Tundra type upper ball joint, making them serviceable at regular auto part stores.
 
mongoose2231 said:
holy crap Jason, I never visit the 100 section! That's a nice truck you got. Will be following this thread on here too. Always thinking of a 100 as well.
Click to expand...

Not sure if I will put it on this rig, but I have a SC as well. BUT, I think it will be going on my Sampson build in the 60 section once we get moved.

183K is a little high mileage to put a SC on, IMO... Sampson will have a freshly rebuilt 2UZFE.

J
 
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