- Thread starter
- #81
Oh great! No, not too late at all. I've read about the lapping process, I don't have a glass table, but do have a huge mirror I could use thats is flat.
Keep the suggestions coming... appreciate it.
Embarking on what looks to be a simple 80 series engine swap. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Mikesta
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Oh great! No, not too late at all. I've read about the lapping process, I don't have a glass table, but do have a huge mirror I could use thats is flat.
Keep the suggestions coming... appreciate it.
- Thread starter
- #82
Alia - funny... delancy- never got the notification. ... but mirrors work too for that. ha. Started out the day with a scare - the guy (different guy) said the big o-ring is on back order.... what he didn't tell me is that mine was in, however the extra one they ordered was on backorder. Whew - I also learned that I failed here. Instead of a Head gasket kit, I should have purchased a grind kit which would have had all this stuff. The bummer is that I need a grind kit for a 22r-e too, but I ordered a head gasket kit. I learned something new
Bunch of stuff done, started out with those two o-rings. and a pretty stripped down block at about 10am.
Then I moved on to the oil pan.
Bunch of stuff done, started out with those two o-rings. and a pretty stripped down block at about 10am.
Then I moved on to the oil pan.
- Thread starter
- #83
Then the oil seal gasket - o-ring thing. Whats awesome is that the bead for the oil pans need to be between 3-4mm... its the same width as this cavity.... good way to eye it up.
- Thread starter
- #84
some more
- Thread starter
- #85
Ok, then I installed the oil pan 2 and then the ps pump that I completely rebuilt... that was fun... this is all fun. Loving it.
- Thread starter
- #86
ps pump attached
- Thread starter
- #87
all of the sudden, my bolt pile starts to disappear and I have more space around the garage... good feeling.
So I pulled out the NEW gasket- The old one here for comparison. The old one doesn't look bad except where the FPIG was pulled from the head.
So I pulled out the NEW gasket- The old one here for comparison. The old one doesn't look bad except where the FPIG was pulled from the head.
- Thread starter
- #88
Head junk... then the valve cover - blasted it and pulled it out, cleaned it with carb cleaner. bla bla bla
- Thread starter
- #89
I think this is from my 151,000 mile engine... not sure, but this is the 3rd set I've cleaned. To avoid the P0401 beast of a code.... befores
- Thread starter
- #90
afters
- Thread starter
- #91
Then, I replaced all these vacuum hoses... went very fast. I did a ton of other stuff in the interim... but then I got the cleaned injectors from witchhunter installed
- Thread starter
- #92
First picture - see anything wrong? This is where I had to do rework. after assembling the intake because I couldn't fix it with the injectors in. doh... and at this point I decided that I should call it a night... .an hour later I did.
New fuel filter while its easy!
New fuel filter while its easy!
- Thread starter
- #93
Last ones... I hope that I can get it wrapped up and attached to the trans tomorrow. I cannot find one of the exhaust manifolds.... doh!
I'm truly sorry, man. Thought a different thread.
You do take the Cruiser addiction to a whole new level I aspire to, though.
alia176
SILVER Star
Looking good Mike. Did you pull the ECU harness out with the engine? If so, that's the way to go for sure.
This would be a good time to drill/tap the upper water neck for a future water temp gauge. Drill/tap and plug for now. Secondly, I took this opportunity to install a brass T where the oil sending unit is. Again, you can plug it for now but this is where I'm picking up the oil pressure for a mech oil press gauge.
Both the oil and water gauges sit in front of the main battery - I don't use them much. Their main purpose to back up the oem dash gauges.
If you ever plan to install a York, you could install a triple groove pulley now and do other prep work if you're so inclined.
Just some tidbits!
This would be a good time to drill/tap the upper water neck for a future water temp gauge. Drill/tap and plug for now. Secondly, I took this opportunity to install a brass T where the oil sending unit is. Again, you can plug it for now but this is where I'm picking up the oil pressure for a mech oil press gauge.
Both the oil and water gauges sit in front of the main battery - I don't use them much. Their main purpose to back up the oem dash gauges.
If you ever plan to install a York, you could install a triple groove pulley now and do other prep work if you're so inclined.
Just some tidbits!
- Thread starter
- #96
More great suggestions. I would like to read on this. Do you have a thread that shows you doing this?... the temp gauge and brass T? I do have a York sitting in the garage. I think they cut down on the horsepower though.
2fpower
SILVER Star
When you get done with this, I would love to see a summary of all the parts you ordered, or in the case of the head gasket kit thing, what you would have ordered.
I see this in my future someday......
I see this in my future someday......
If you search under my name, I posted up a very comprehensive document with part numbers, diagrams, dos and donts, etc. for both a basic valve grind as well as a comprehensive engine rebuild.
alia176
SILVER Star
I don't think I have any threads that I created on this. The water neck drill/tap has been covered in the past so you should be able to find that.
York cut down on hp - surely you jest
It's a free wheeling clutch, just like the A/C comp you now have. Yeah, it requires hp when you activate the clutch to pump out air - which you normally do while stationery filling up tires, or running the blender in my case.
- Thread starter
- #100
1. Buy the 'Grind kit' which will give you pretty much all you need. I'm not sure if that comes with FPIG, but it should.
2. If you want to do your Power Steering pump, buy that kit + the O ring that connects the ps pump to the engine.
3. PHH
4. Lots of cleaner
5. plethora of rags
6. You need lots of time to clean if you like to have stuff clean when you assemble
7. Fuel filter
Today is day 5 (3.5 - 4 full days) of working on this/cleaning assembly, parts hunting). The next time I do this, I will go deeper now that I've come this far. I will have the block cleaned, bored and the head shaved.... Having a spare engine really comes in handy. If you have the room, my recommendation is to buy a wrecked or blown 80 (with same trans) as yours and then build the engine and swap it in when done. Then if you need to refer to something, you have the OTHER engine there so you get it right.
This has been a fun process... I've really enjoyed it.
