Embarking on what looks to be a simple 80 series engine swap. (2 Viewers)

[Mikesta]

Good Gosh... I pulled just the engine for mine. I can't imagine how much metal you have to swing around if you have the tranny and t-case on it as well! Sounds like a slow "wiggle, move, wiggle" process Mike. Good luck to you my friend! Any idea what that freight train weighs??

That engine bay looks very nice! What did you use? I used Fast505 and about dozen rolls of paper towels.

Excellent progress on a "simple engine swap" for sure! Keep up the good work man!

Thanks! I'll have to check out your thread. I'm sure its around 1k -1.2k lbs. Heavy. The tcase is about 100-150 alone... brute force!

I've been doing this all week and am on a roll, came in for a while and for the night, but then was pulled back outside. An hour later had the engine in the bay but about 1" from where it needs to be. Daylight will help and I'll get it in there tomorrow. Still with the hood on, however I did nick the padding a tad. Still can be done.

Now I'm really done for the night. Appreciate the comments. really looking forward to the first fire.

 

[Mikesta]

I definitely made a mistake putting the engine in last night (rain was coming). I should have hooked up the tranny harness, connected the bell housing to the flywheel and buttoned up everything that I could before dropping it in. that mistake yesterday cost me 4 hours today.

I had to loosen the tranny to engine bolts (10) and have the wife torque down on the crank nut for about 15 minutes, then everything got better. There is a ton of stuff to clean/install back to torque specs. Spent the whole day getting to a spot I thought I'd be at noon.

This is the 3rd engine swap I've done this year, but the first I'm completing start to finish. I think the reason why it goes so slow is because I like things clean before I torque down on them

Put on the new ps hoses and connected the newly rebuilt ps pump. Then added fluid. Its starting to sink in that I'm almost done.

 

[Mikesta]

Didn't take too many pictures today, this is it. Everything under the truck is hooked up minus the drive lines and the muffler support. Torqued down and double checked everything. Do it right the first time.

I'm a little concerned about my injectors after reading your thread blkprj80. All that work to have to troubleshoot. Hope that isn't the case here, but if it is, lots of great tips on your build.

Thats it for tonight. Tomorrow will be 8 days working on this and it will be good to have it wrapped up. My next project will be to complete Ghettofabtacular and sell it... if I don't I'll have to sell this

 

[Mikesta]

I don't think I have any threads that I created on this. The water neck drill/tap has been covered in the past so you should be able to find that.

York cut down on hp - surely you jest It's a free wheeling clutch, just like the A/C comp you now have. Yeah, it requires hp when you activate the clutch to pump out air - which you normally do while stationery filling up tires, or running the blender in my case.

I was serious. I haven't searched on the york stuff yet and your post was the first that I've heard of people putting one in an 80. I have all the components for the 2F including the york. I may have to back track on this down the line if I'm able to keep it and do the camper conversion to it. Would be awesome to have air for tools, tires and stuff when off the grid.

Don't know how I missed your post... now Im going to read up on Yorks. This is one of my favorite sites. Learned everything from people on here and my addiction is the way it is because of the community of people like we have her to help out noobs like me!

 

[alia176]

Oh SNAP, where have you been? Oh yeah, vacationing in the land yacht.....

If you don't have any plans for force inductions, I'd DEFINITELY install a York in that space. This should be a no brainer for those of us running NA engines. Getting a hold of the three groove pulley might be a challenge but I think you're creative enough to make your own, like I did.

You may get lucky in your search and find the bracket and the pulley that someone is selling. Be sure to get the bracket with an adjustable belt tensioning pulley.

Attached is a pic of my DIY 3 groove pulley. With careful welding, you can achieve a concentric pulley that's balanced.

Before:


After:

 

[Mikesta]

welllllllllllll llittttttle updaaaaaaaaaate innnnmy druknstuppperrrrrrrrrrr I pored 7 quarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrts of oylll n.... sstttttttilll not mesuringg on thee stick........poured 1 moreeee quartttttttt innnn.... stilllllllllln not mesuringg.... I pored ittttttttt in the raddddddddddiator...

Poured gassssssssss on it and torchhhhhhed it. Youuuuuuuuuu will see it in the news..

 

[NLXTACY]

Forgot to put in the drain plug? Oil all over the ground? Classic rookie mistake

 

[Mikesta]

No I was just messing around. Today has been wet, Got everything back together, checked double checked etc etc. I just need to stab the dizzy now. I pulled plug 1 and made sure the piston was at the top, followed the fsm, is the cap supposed to be pointing to the right of 1? I'm inside eating dinner and then my 9 year old and I will go out in the rainy weather, shut the doors and install the interior. Then its go time. I actually tightened the oil pan plug before installing the pan 2 because I would make that rookie mistake. And there is nothing but distilled in the radiator. I flushed the radiator and wow its was milky... when I was done (prior to installation) water was flowing clear.

 

[alia176]

Almost there.....need more Ale......

 

[Mikesta]

I know I seen this youtube video on stabbing the dizzy... need help here... I sar it but see it no more... shoulda bookmaked it! Fail

 

[alia176]

Mike,

It's been a while since I stabbed a dizzy but if memory serves, you need to start it much ahead of the actual position for #1. Whether that's far ahead to the left or far ahead to the right, I can't recall at the moment.

Bottom line is that you want to "end" up at #1. Go ahead and stab it at a random location to see how much rotation you need to end up at the destination. IIRC, it rotates quite a bit.

Probably didn't help much. I'll edit this post with a pic if I have one on my HDD.

Edit: think I found a pic that will help you. I believe the rotor is pointing to #1?

 

[Mikesta]

Mike,

It's been a while since I stabbed a dizzy but if memory serves, you need to start it much ahead of the actual position for #1. Whether that's far ahead to the left or far ahead to the right, I can't recall at the moment.

Bottom line is that you want to "end" up at #1. Go ahead and stab it at a random location to see how much rotation you need to end up at the destination. IIRC, it rotates quite a bit.

Probably didn't help much. I'll edit this post with a pic if I have one on my HDD.

Edit: think I found a pic that will help you. I believe the rotor is pointing to #1?

Perfect, if yours worked then hopefully mine will because that's where mine ended up! Shweet.. thanks. Houston, weather conditions are preventing launch. Pushing it off till tormorrow.... but we tried to start it (click - click - click)... no ignition, however I didn't tighten the battery cables down as there was a deluge of rain coming down! Tomorrow works.... time for some wine and some candy crush.

 

[blkprj80]

My build thread has a picture of the dizzy before pulling. It's on the first page. I put mine back together from this pic and she was very close to base timing.

 

[Mikesta]

This morning (before work... I'm back at work now so this will be really slow going forward). I noticed that the ground on the negative cable wasn't attached to the body (near the battery) so I tightened that down. Swapped out starters (15 minutes). Same clicking. I won't have time till lunch to look at it again. I think its a ground wire.... You can hear the starter engage but not turn. I know there isn't anything jammed up (in park and I've rotated the engine by socket 3 times). Starter fluid is full. Wiper bearing good.

Here is the video of it. Short / sweet... Putting this up in case someone has run into this and has any ideas, otherwise, I'll get back out there later today and check it out... probably something very very simple.

 

[Mikesta]

One thing that I've never noticed in any of my 80's is that rad light above to voltage...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/734267-help-not-battery-but-wont-start-w-red-light.html

I think its the security. EASY peezy

 

[alia176]

This is a dumb question but did you connect the LARGE BLACK heavy gauge wire to the POSITIVE terminal of the battery? It sounds like the solenoid is pulling in but the bendix is not spinning due to no power.

 

[UWdave]

What is your battery voltage?

Can you hear the starter engaging? That click doesn't sound loud enough.

 

[Mikesta]

This is a dumb question but did you connect the LARGE BLACK heavy gauge wire to the POSITIVE terminal of the battery? It sounds like the solenoid is pulling in but the bendix is not spinning due to no power.

Good thing to check... I believe so. I'll check in a while.

What is your battery voltage?

Can you hear the starter engaging? That click doesn't sound loud enough.

Its a lot louder in person. I'll check though.

See that light in the video, thats a security light that the link I posted above alludes to. I really think that is the problem... but please keep the suggestions coming.

 

[Mikesta]

hah! That black box was unplugged, plugged it in, mounted it, I also plugged in all of the ones around the shifter. Now The alarm... I don't think its the problem. I unplugged it at the box (under the seat) and the clicking stopped when turning the key.... Plug it back in and the clicking commences when turning the key. Battery voltage is 11.89.

I know its something really silly.

 

[2fpower]

I agree that the little black alarm box has to be plugged in, or you have to jump the relay. Starter interruption deal on the alarm. BUT if you have clicking at starter, then you should be good.

I have read several threads about dropped voltage on the starter solenoid line, so what some people do is splice the solenoid line to a relay that allows full battery juice to the solenoid. So power line fused with 20amps to relay, then line from switched relay side to the starter solenoid.

Check fusable links.....

Here is what I would do to test the starter. First grab an extra battery cable and attach it to the starter big bolt pole then connect to battery positive. Try to start. If works, then you have a bad main battery power line.

Second unplug the solenoid line and get a hot wire and hit the solenoid line at starter.

If this works, then you eliminated the starter as the issue.

There are threads about contamination on the tranny lines, but you worked on those. Might drop it in neutral and try to start.

There are threads about the ignition switch not working too.