Embarking on what looks to be a simple 80 series engine swap. (1 Viewer)

[western flyer]

Love the floor of the 40.

 

[Mikesta]

That's a great helper you got there....the 40 should be just about done by the time he's ready to drive!!!!

This 40 is pure donor.... no chance he will ever drive this one... unless the frame is primo...

That bearing (on the third part from the left on your picture) went on really easy for me. No press needed, just some sockets and a vice..

Thanks! Mind block over!

Good progress, Mike ! Is this engine for the future Camper-mobile ?

Yes, its going in that rig... my thinking is to get the rig reliable and driven and trail rated before chopping it. All this stuff takes time... lots of it. I'm easily distracted... looking at a LPB right now too..

 

[Mikesta]

Slow but making some progress, Getting ready to put some FPIG on the oil pans and will check the bearings when in here. Thanks Alia for the recommendations.. keep them coming, I'm open to learning and learn by doing. Read a few of your other threads and feel like I'm ready to tackle a full engine rebuild on the one I pull out.

Got the PS Pump completely rebuilt with a new bearing. Thinking I'm doing it backasswards though by pulling the pan first then the head.

Question: I'm thinking that I should just temporarily put the pan back on and do the head so that I can blow out any debris from the head gasket work... or can I zip this oil pan up and call it a day here? I'd like to be done with the bottom part of the engine.

 

[NLXTACY]

Just imagine putting the pan back on, turning the block over to work on the head, and dropping something down the timing chain slot. Think about the anger that will surge through your veins.

 

[Mikesta]

Good advice - I receive it.

 

[Mikesta]

Not much to update -

Here is a video of the head gasket.



And started putting it all back together again..

The torque settings in the fsm are wow! 90/90, but this is my first head gasket replacement that I've done. I don't have the headgasket video, kindof wish I did.

few pictures.

 

[Mikesta]

Ouch - Embarking on what looks to be a [STRIKE]simple[/STRIKE] 80 series engine swap... I'm sorta stumped and am looking for advice/help.

I'm in the FSM, got my intake and exhaust cams on

A few days ago I Followed EG-25 where it says
34. Remove Camshaft Timing gear
(a) Remove the semi -ciruclar plug.
(b) Place the matchmarks on the camshaft timing gear and timing chain.

I put matchmarks on when it was TDC (as this was a prior step) then removed the timing gear.

Fast forward now to EG-48

14. Set no.1 cylinder to TDC/Compression
(a) Turn the crankshaft pulley, and align its groove with mark "0" of the timing chain cover. done
(b)Turn the camshafts so that th etiming marks with the one and two dots will be in a straight line on the cylinder head surface as shown. Done
15. Install camshaft timing gear
Hint: Check that the matchmarks on the camshaft timing gear and timing chain ar aligned
(a) Place the gear over the straight pin of the camshaft.
(b) Align the straigh pin of the distributor gear with the straight pin groove of the intake camshaft.
BLA BLA BLA - Torque

17. Check Valve timing
(a) Turn crankshaft pulley and align its groove with the timing mark"0" of the timeing chain cover. Done
(b) Check that the timing marks (one and two dots) of the camshaft drive and driven gears are in straight lin on the cylinder head surface... if not turn 1 revolution and allign the marks as above (DONE and this is where they don't allign with TDC) This is where I need advice. Did I put my cams on when it was not TDC? Because if I put the timing chain on with the matchmarks they won't line up with the cam. I think this is where I went wrong because I rotated the engine to clean out the pistons and likely forgot to put it back to TDC before I installed the head and the cams.

 

[BILT4ME]

The camshaft turns half the amount the crankshaft turns (each time the crank goes around, the cam only goes one-half the way around). If you did it wrong, you could be "180 degrees out". Either way, the marks must align at THE SAME TIME that cyl #1 is at TDC. Then if you rotate the assembly 2 times, it should all realign. Make sure that the lobes on that cam are in a position that both intake AND exhaust valves are closed at TDC.

You can also have the cam and crank aligned and have the distributor 180 out. Always start at the crank, verify TDC, then verify that the cam is set with both valves on #1 closed (TDC). Then do the distributor so that it is pointing at #1 plug wire on the cap when it is fully installed.

If you're unsure, start again at the beginning.

 

[Mikesta]

The camshaft turns half the amount the crankshaft turns (each time the crank goes around, the cam only goes one-half the way around). If you did it wrong, you could be "180 degrees out". Either way, the marks must align at THE SAME TIME that cyl #1 is at TDC. Then if you rotate the assembly 2 times, it should all realign. Make sure that the lobes on that cam are in a position that both intake AND exhaust valves are closed at TDC.

You can also have the cam and crank aligned and have the distributor 180 out. Always start at the crank, verify TDC, then verify that the cam is set with both valves on #1 closed (TDC). Then do the distributor so that it is pointing at #1 plug wire on the cap when it is fully installed.

If you're unsure, start again at the beginning.

Thanks for the timely post, will start over with piston at TDC! I only need to take the exhaust cam off so its not too much work!

 

[Mikesta]

Slow progress -

Update - Finally had a couple hours to figure out my timing chain mark issue, didn't get to that until after I went through the head bolts that I did 27/90d/90d on. Most of the bolts were at 96 max, so I set them all to 96 on the torque wrench, get to one of the center bolts and turn in 90.... whoa... must have missed this one.

then another 90.... hmmm

No way I could have missed this, then pow! snapped the bolt. I don't have the heart to look at the head yet and check for cracks.

Took the head off and the bolt came out by hand twisting.

the fsm said put a light layer of oil on the head bolts. What I didn't do - vacuum out the head bolt holes. I believe I hydrolocked one of the bolts causing it to snap after another 90 degree turn when torquing them all to 96ft lbs. Lesson learned - time to put in some new bolts and a new head gasket because I hear that you cannot use the same head gasket after its been torqued down on.

 

[alia176]

Wow, glad to hear you're able to recover from the slight mishap!

Regarding the camp shaft service bolt, this tends to confuse people a little. If you put the service bolt through both halves of the same sprocket before removing the camshafts from the heads, then you're all good. If not, no biggie since you can do this after the fact. Just pointing that out!

 

[Mikesta]

Wow, glad to hear you're able to recover from the slight mishap!

Regarding the camp shaft service bolt, this tends to confuse people a little. If you put the service bolt through both halves of the same sprocket before removing the camshafts from the heads, then you're all good. If not, no biggie since you can do this after the fact. Just pointing that out!

Yea, I'm ordering a new headgasket and will measure the bolts this time to see if they are in spec as well as vacuum out the head bolt area. I'll dry the bolts of as well because there is already enough oil down in those holes.

The cam shaft service bolt didn't align on mine. It was a tooth off, I took off the exhaust cam with no issue and the two part (front back) have not moved. I don't know if it is like this on the later style engine (I'm working on an engine that came out of a 97 lexus). I have read other threads where its like this. They remain compressed together.

Where I'm still stumped is at the timing chain mark. I have my piston at TDC and the mark I made is still off. I guess I should have zip tied the gear on. Live and learn. I may just have to put it back together with the cam's 1 / 2 dot marks in a horizontal plane with the engine in tdc and have to ignore the mark I made on the timing chain / cam gear. I don't see how the chain could have moved 4" off the mark when its in TDC. Baffled.

I'll get er done before 2014

 

[2fpower]

2 thoughts.

Spin the motor (on the stand) over and use air to blow out the holes.

If it were me I would reuse that head gasket, but I don't know anything about anything.....

 

[Mikesta]

2 thoughts.

Spin the motor (on the stand) over and use air to blow out the holes.

If it were me I would reuse that head gasket, but I don't know anything about anything.....

I'd like to be you and save a hundie but the reading I've done on here points to folks digging in their pockets for funding another gasket.

Please tell me why you don't know anything about anything!

 

[Offroads4x4]

After all the hard work now is not the time to skimp and pray the gasket will seal. The money spent gives great peace of mind while driving down the road.

 

[Mikesta]

I hear you ... The replacement ... its already been ordered as of 2 hours ago. I just want to hear what 2FPower has to say about torquing down a gasket twice.

 

[Alleycats]

Someone here used this on there headgasket and it seems like a good practice, also have you considered the ARP head bolts?

Just a couple thoughts.



http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8069...8559920&sr=8-1&keywords=permatex+copper+spray

 

[OGBeno]

I hear you ... The replacement ... its already been ordered as of 2 hours ago. I just want to hear what 2FPower has to say about torquing down a gasket twice.

Do not torque down the 1FZ head gasket twice.

Do as the FSM specs: 29 ft.lbs (1st turn), then another 90 degrees, and another 90 degrees. Call it good.

 

[2fpower]

Do not torque down the 1FZ head gasket twice.

If Beno says not to do it, then I bow to his knowledge.......

 

[OGBeno]

If Beno says not to do it, then I bow to his knowledge.......

No need to bow to me.

I just follow the FSM and have never had any issues....

That and listening to sage advice of Cdan and Robbie--both my 1FZ mentors.