Embarking on what looks to be a simple 80 series engine swap. (1 Viewer)

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Engine out without taking off the hood

The new head gasket and some head bolts should be here Monday or Tuesday - Watching the tracking number like a hawk.

While I'm stuck in a waiting mode, challenged myself to pull the Engine out of the 80. And gave myself a goal of Noon..... took 3 hours. I'm pleased - Now cleaning for the rest of the day.

Series of 3 videos for you



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Put the engine on my Deck because I'm running out of space to put things.

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Pulled up the little mini home with a 22r-e. Wow this thing is tiny in comparison. This gets yanked on Monday. Much easier than the V6.

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Mike,

A very impressive job pulling the engine/tcase/trans combo in three hours. I bow to you. Curious as to why you chose to leave the hood in place? Just needed a little more challenge? :)
 
ditto

Mike,

A very impressive job pulling the engine/tcase/trans combo in three hours. I bow to you. Curious as to why you chose to leave the hood in place? Just needed a little more challenge? :)

I was thinking the same with the tranny shift lever still attached.
 
Mike,

A very impressive job pulling the engine/tcase/trans combo in three hours. I bow to you. Curious as to why you chose to leave the hood in place? Just needed a little more challenge? :)

I was thinking the same with the tranny shift lever still attached.

Yea, pretty much just for the challenge of it. That and I really suck at lining up body panels. The load balancer made it happen and I think the angle of the truck jacked up in the front did as well... giving the t-case more room to lower.

Nothing to update on the 80 other than getting some cleaning on the components done.

Yesterday, I pulled a 22r-e from a Toyota Sunrader I have with 25,000 miles. That engine is so clean - just needs new seals and it will be back in. From reading on forums, I believe the antifreeze turned acidic and ate the headgasket... lesson learned when buying an older vehicle with lower miles.

You can watch all the nonsense on youtube under the handle FJTOYS.

But here is a video of the end result

video 12 in the series -

 
I wasn't planning on working on the 1FZ today because I have that 22r-e to go through and it really takes priority.

But I did.

ended up taking off the timing chain cover and I'm glad I did, just made everything easier and while I'm here I probably should fpig it anyway right? So the day started off with getting around $500 worth of OEM toyota goodness.

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After I took off the timing cover, I see that there are 2 o-rings that I do not have, so I ordered them from Toyota locally and will pick them up tomorrow. Bummer, but there is so much to still clean and do.

So the Oil Cooler got reassembled

2 gaskets, then assemble cooler to cover, torque the 4 nuts to 12 ft/lbs (easier to do when mounted to block)

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Then put on the cover to block gasket (it only fits one way) and put the cover on with I think 10 bolts and 2 nuts. These get torqued to 15lbs.

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here is the numbers for the gaskets you need for this. Hope it helps....

Then on to the rear main seal thingamajig. After cleaning, scraping, cleaning and noticing a slight burr on the outside (fixed it by scraping with a razor blade) I put on the rear main seal. I like clean.

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This is an OEM Toyota Seal tool.

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Keep in mind that (IDONTTHINK) this engine leaked at the seals or the FPIG... I'm just doing it while in here.

Then the clean up of the oil pump and the timing cover - I cleaned it up a little, cleaning will only serve the purpose of telling me if I have a leak there again in the future, should I keep this 80.

This is the super easy way to do your oil seal with 7 screws.

Then I used the MIKESTA SST tool to install the front main seal. ( you can see that the old seal lip fits inside the mason jar and stays there with gravity - new seal already in.

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More pictures of the mikesta sst and the mikesta hammer (wood).

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My wonderful wife went to the store and brought me back a nice treat. I'm now drinking an alcoholic beverage (with the mikesta sst) and a fun smoke. Enough for the day.

Oh, and I did put some moly grease on the inner seal as the FSM states. Thats it for today.

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You just tighten it down and it seats the seal?

No, its a cover for a 3spd tcase. You whack it with a rubber hammer till it seats down in there.... I used the old seal (turned it upside down) and sunk it till it evened out with the rear lip. I lost some pictures, My phone is acting up... or it could be Human error.
 
Yep human error - more pictures (not in order)

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and a few more...

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Here is a video of my stuffed garage, I barely have any room to work.

Ramble ramble ramble



I intended on tearing down the 22r-e but I don't have space for it yet, so I need to finish up the 1FZ first. Once I get the oil pan and head on, it should go pretty fast. Might be zipped for the most part tomorrow night on the 1FZ. Here's to hoping.
 
Mike,

I maybe too late with these suggestions but I'll mention them anyway:

- oil pump cover - on both of my 80s, I sort of rubbed the cover on a 250 grit sand paper lying flat on a glass table top in a figure 8 pattern. I did this just to make sure that the surface is super flat. Robbie suggested doing this.

- rear main seal - before installing this on the Cshaft, check to see if there's a groove. If there is, locate the seal little bit fore or aft of this groove. Just an extra precaution against future leakage. Again, another Robbie suggestion.

Keep up the good work. Love the Mikesta SST's, LOL!!
 

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