Double cardan driveshaft help

[baldilocks]

Tatton was a cool guy, but I'm not feeling the 1310 spicers I Want to stick with Toyota stuff.
Thanks for the link, looks informative so far.

I felt the same way when it came to the rear DC shaft. 1310 is comparable to the front not to mention there are two joints at the transfer case where there used to be only one. Mine has run the rubicon several times and no problems since I had it built in 2014.
Last year I went to slee 4" HDP rear springs and then had rear vibrations. I sourced a 2002 4Runner rear DC shaft and took it to the driveline shop for them to use in building my rear shaft. This shop has been around for over three decades and I have done a lot of business with them over that's 20 years so I trusted them when they presented me with the NeapCo DC and the spicer life time joints (which I have used in other applications with great success).
When sitting side by side with the Toyota DC these parts look very comparable. This shop builds many shafts for many applications and I don't think they would steer me wrong.
Toyota drive shafts are very over built and notoriously strong which lends to their long life. The rear UJoint's in our stock 80 series drive line are monsters for the application.
A 1350 series U joint is considered 1 ton in the rock crawling fab world. The bearing cap diameter on the stock land cruiser rear U joint measure 1/10th" larger than the 1350 series. That's very large for a vehicle that will never weigh, even loaded up, as much as my 7200# dodge pickup which has U joints only a little larger than the land cruiser rear shaft has.
The 1310's probably won't last as long as the stock Toyotas but I don't believe I will break them either. Actually, they will probably last longer than the vibrating stock rear shaft would. Now having said all this, I will carry my spare rear shaft when I go on those tougher trails especially when a long way from home or services. Driving style makes a big difference here.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

So basically you used your original DS and converted the other end with the tundra DC? You cant just shorted the tundra like the taco right?

correct. And no you can't just shorten it because the DC comes off the rear driveline. Most shops will tell you it can't be done. That the DC on the friction welded newer driveline can't be reused..the old timer I took it to proved that theory dead wrong! I too am a fan of keeping it toyota and 1310's aren't all that strong, but they are easier to come by, cheaper by a lot and once the newer Toyota DC joints go...they're done and have to be replaced with a factory new, according to Toyota who doesn't carry replacement parts for the joint and the driveline shop who couldn't get the proper joints either. So a 1310 joint is kind of a better option in the long run as far as replaceability.

 

[ARB777]

Can you post a photo of your front drive shaft to axle pinion connection from the side view to give an ideal of what you have going on?

Here are the angles. What do you think?

 

[baldilocks]

Here are the angles. What do you think?

View attachment 1294029

View attachment 1294030

As you said before, you have adequate castor correction and this has put your pinion angle at what looks to be zero or close to it. You are in position for a DC front shaft for sure.

 

[ARB777]

As you said before, you have adequate castor correction and this has put your pinion angle at what looks to be zero or close to it. You are in position for a DC front shaft for sure.

Thanks for the input. Just want to make sure im in the right direction.

 

[mcguirejohnson]

My DC came from a 07 tundra and the tube was from my 80 as well as the diff end. Took it to a reputable driveline shop and hey made mine for under $200

I know this thread is pretty old, but I am curious about this because I was just turned down by a DS shop trying to shorten a tundra DC shaft..

So your saying that the Tundra DC joint can be cut off and welded on the t-case side of the stock 80 front shaft?

The guy gave me a short winded explanation that the Tundra shaft is welded by a certain process when made that makes it unable to shorten. I am guessing since you had success he must have been talking about the slip yoke section..

 

[landtank]

as far as i know the tundra joint is for modding our rear shafts to a DC style and not the front . different bolt pattern Our fronts use a Tacoma and some 4Runner donor shafts.

your driveline shop will need access to metric tubing. Which for me was the hardest to find.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

.

I know this thread is pretty old, but I am curious about this because I was just turned down by a DS shop trying to shorten a tundra DC shaft..

So your saying that the Tundra DC joint can be cut off and welded on the t-case side of the stock 80 front shaft?

The guy gave me a short winded explanation that the Tundra shaft is welded by a certain process when made that makes it unable to shorten. I am guessing since you had success he must have been talking about the slip yoke section..

It can be done...my FRONT DC is proof. You just have to take it to a competent shop. The guy mine went to said it was friction welded and there may not be enough pilot material to work with, only way he'd know for sure is by cutting it and lathing off the existing tube. I took a risk it wouldn't work and I'd lose the money on the shaft but gave him the go ahead. He said there was just enough to work with and did the deed.

 

[landtank]

the 2 styles of shafts that im aware of is welded and crimped. I've been told that a crimped shaft can't be modded.

Not sure what a friction welded shaft is

 

[Cruzerman]

Educate me. Why do people need a DC shaft for such little lift? I know lots of people with 3+ inches of lift and not one needed a DC shaft.

 

[landtank]

if you are at around 4" of lift and correct caster yo meet factory specs yhe pinion angle will be aligned so that only s dc shaft will run smooth.

lots of people dont correct caster properly so they don't need a dc shadt but handiling suffers because of this.

 

[Cruzerman]

Thanks. I can understand it when you go 4" or more. Seems like I see lots of people put these in for much less lift which is what I didn't get. What you say make sense to me. Thanks.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

$400 plus but it's all new parts and they are common parts that can be found at most any parts house or even from some stranger on the trail if you didn't have spares. I was skeptical but I have front and rear custom DC shafts that are working out well.

Still the case? I am working out which route to go right now... you say tom woods is the way?

 

[77mustard40]

Bought mine from @landtank

 

[baldilocks]

Still the case? I am working out which route to go right now... you say tom woods is the way?

I’ve been running spicer style 1310 DC joints front and rear with the correct Japanese Ujoint at the axle end several years now. The front went in first back in 2014 or 15. It was doing fine until I stripped gear teeth from the front ring gear and the subsequent shock load broke the DC yoke at the T-case. The Spicer Life Series sealed joints survived. I’d say that this was not the fault of the DC joint.

1310 size joints in the rear are a good bit smaller than stock. I never broke one with lots of rock crawling on 37’s but they have a tendency to wear the bearing cup holes in the yokes due to less surface area. Then the bearing cups can rotate in the yoke and the whole thing becomes sloppy. This does take a while to happen, maybe 2-3 years for me but I run my 80 harder than most. For the vast majority of Mud members the 1310 size joints will certainly work in the front for a good long while as they are similar size to stock.

And they should also be ok in the rear for most 80 owners. They have been “ok” for me and never left me stranded it’s just that they won’t last as long as the huge, stock size Japanese joints. I do carry a spare rear DC shaft just in case.

Member Landtank is now making rear DC shafts of all new Toyota parts so I bit the bullet and bought his first one produced but haven’t run it yet.

The 1310 should work well for most people and last a decently long time. It’s important to buy from a reputable seller/builder like Tom Woods or a trusted local driveline shop.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

I’ve been running spicer style 1310 DC joints front and rear with the correct Japanese Ujoint at the axle end several years now. The front went in first back in 2014 or 15. It was doing fine until I stripped gear teeth from the front ring gear and the subsequent shock load broke the DC yoke at the T-case. The Spicer Life Series sealed joints survived. I’d say that this was not the fault of the DC joint.

1310 size joints in the rear are a good bit smaller than stock. I never broke one with lots of rock crawling on 37’s but they have a tendency to wear the bearing cup holes in the yokes due to less surface area. Then the bearing cups can rotate in the yoke and the whole thing becomes sloppy. This does take a while to happen, maybe 2-3 years for me but I run my 80 harder than most. For the vast majority of Mud members the 1310 size joints will certainly work in the front for a good long while as they are similar size to stock.

And they should also be ok in the rear for most 80 owners. They have been “ok” for me and never left me stranded it’s just that they won’t last as long as the huge, stock size Japanese joints. I do carry a spare rear DC shaft just in case.

Member Landtank is now making rear DC shafts of all new Toyota parts so I bit the bullet and bought his first one produced but haven’t run it yet.

The 1310 should work well for most people and last a decently long time. It’s important to buy from a reputable seller/builder like Tom Woods or a trusted local driveline shop.

appreciate the info! to clarify... you see the yokes themselves wearing (Outer diameter of the bearing cups)? Meaning the yoke is toast and a new 1310 u joint won't solve the sloppyness?

With how cheap and simple it is to replace spicer's I'm wondering if that lower service interval is a big concern or not. Do we know what specific joints are in the Landtank shaft? I'm curious to see what the joint rebuilds would cost in comparison. Also, do we know what length the Landtank shaft is?

 

[baldilocks]

Yes, the yoke wears and the Ujoint is still good. I used only the Spicer Life Series seals joints in the DC joints. Stronger, no greasing and last a long time.

The DC joint in the Landtank rear shaft does use what appears to be the same size joint as the 80 front. The rear joint is the 80 size joint. I was under the impression that this shaft would be all 80 sized joints but perhaps that’s not possible. I do know that Toyota shafts are notoriously strong and I don’t think I need to be concerned about the smaller joints in the DC. The Toyota DC is a good bit beefier than the 1310 and that will resist the flexing that induces wear around the bearing cups so I expect the Landtank shaft to outlast the 1310 DC.

Your shaft length requirements are a custom need based on lift and axle location fore and aft.

appreciate the info! to clarify... you see the yokes themselves wearing (Outer diameter of the bearing cups)? Meaning the yoke is toast and a new 1310 u joint won't solve the sloppyness?

With how cheap and simple it is to replace spicer's I'm wondering if that lower service interval is a big concern or not. Do we know what specific joints are in the Landtank shaft? I'm curious to see what the joint rebuilds would cost in comparison. Also, do we know what length the Landtank shaft is?

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Yes, the yoke wears and the Ujoint is still good. I used only the Spicer Life Series seals joints in the DC joints. Stronger, no greasing and last a long time.

The DC joint in the Landtank rear shaft does use what appears to be the same size joint as the 80 front. The rear joint is the 80 size joint. I was under the impression that this shaft would be all 80 sized joints but perhaps that’s not possible. I do know that Toyota shafts are notoriously strong and I don’t think I need to be concerned about the smaller joints in the DC. The Toyota DC is a good bit beefier than the 1310 and that will resist the flexing that induces wear around the bearing cups so I expect the Landtank shaft to outlast the 1310 DC.

Your shaft length requirements are a custom need based on lift and axle location fore and aft.

Got it thanks.


I understand that shaft length is dependent, my confusion is that Landtank doesn’t list it and from what I can tell you don’t order a specific length or provide that measurement. It also doesn’t list what the joints are, so I can’t seem to figure out what a rebuild would cost. Maybe i missed it, but i’ll keep looking

I’m bored and have too much time on my hands can you tell

 

[landtank]

There are two Toyota DC joints, inside clip and outside clip. The inside clip style is quit a bit stronger and , in my opinion, a lot easier to grease which can be done with the shaft on the truck.

The Toyota inside clip and from my understanding the spicers CV needs the drive shaft dropped and in the case of the spicer, a special grease tip is best.

I’ve rebuilt a few Toyota shafts that didn’t get greased regularly and have seen spicer dhafts that couldn’t be rebuilt from not being greased.

Regardless of the manufacturer, lack of greasing is a major contributor of drive shaft wear.

 

[junior80]

Here are the angles. What do you think?

View attachment 1294029

View attachment 1294030

how did you go with getting this sorted out @ARB777 ?