New driveshaft (1 Viewer)

[dsmud4u]

Morning guys, bought a new OEM driveshaft from Toyota Parts Deal and had a question about the phasing.

there is one pink paint marks at each end of the driveshaft but 90 degrees apart. Are those what indicate the phasing and should I line them up or leave as is?

 

[NeverFinis]

It depends if front or rear, which you didn't say. Front out of phase, rear in phase. Older FSM showed that the front is supposed to be in phase, but was later corrected in a supplement according to CruiserDan

 

[OGBeno]

Morning guys, bought a new OEM driveshaft from Toyota Parts Deal and had a question about the phasing.

there is one pink paint marks at each end of the driveshaft but 90 degrees apart. Are those what indicate the phasing and should I line them up or leave as is?

New factory shafts come ready to install. No need to mess with it.

 

[Kernal]

^^^This^^^

Photo shows a front Toyota Driveshaft (Propeller): 37140-60340


@dsmud4u : does this look like what you have (note the orientation of the U-joints)?

 

[dsmud4u]

I bought a rear. The front has a DC from Landtank a few years back. Here’s a pic of what I was talking about. They are 90 degrees apart.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Take a picture of the entire driveshaft in one picture

 

[ERG80]

Like others have said if you haven’t pulled the slip yoke out then just install it like it came from Toyota.

If you have taken it apart just put it back together in-phase (since it’s a rear shaft) and be sure the grease zerks are all on the same side of the shaft. Then install.

I just got a new rear shaft and did not pay attention to the paint marks. No issues.

 

[Kernal]

@dsmud4u : compare the orientation of your driveshaft to the photos below which I took of
a new FZJ80 Toyota Rear Drive (Propeller) Shaft-Land Cruiser with ABS (37110-60520) before painting:


First photo is how I received it from my local dealer (plastic bags on the ends, rubber bands removed):

Next photo shows the slip yolk end getting ready to paint, zerk (grease fitting) covered in blue painters tape at 12 O'clock (pointing upward) with the factory purple/pink dot and white stripe markings in line with the zerk. (IIRC I extended the white stripe with marking paint so it would be visible from the side):

Bottom photo shows the other end of the rear drive (propeller) shaft looking toward the slip yolk. Note the factory applied Purple/pink dot and white stripe are also at 12 O'clock (upright) as is the zerk fitting on the slip yolk at the other end.

Also note the orientation of the flange yolks, they're the same on both ends (In Phase). See diagram Rear Propeller Shaft, post #2 above:
(trivia: I lightly tapped flush using a brass hammer the weight shown in the photo that was sticking up a bit prior to painting, FWIW)

Hanging to dry after light sanding, degreasing, taping, and painting (SprayMax 2k Epoxy primer and topcoat)
Note again orientation of the Flange yolks on either end:

 

[dsmud4u]

Thanks for all the replies. Yeah, looks like you guys described.

 

[Kernal]

Do the pink/purple marks line up?

 

[dsmud4u]

Do the pink/purple marks line up?

Nah, they were off by 90 degrees.

 

[dsmud4u]

Finally slapped this on and what a difference. The truck no longer feels likes it’s tearing itself apart. I’ll put in some new u-joints in the old one and have a spare.

 

[jonheld]

Finally slapped this on and what a difference. The truck no longer feels likes it’s tearing itself apart. I’ll put in some new u-joints in the old one and have a spare.

I will add that new OEM driveshafts come with lightweight assembly grease in the universals and slip yoke. You should thoroughly grease both unis and slip yoke before installation.

 

[dsmud4u]

I will add that new OEM driveshafts come with lightweight assembly grease in the universals and slip yoke. You should thoroughly grease both unis and slip yoke before installation.

Thanks, I wasn’t tracking this. I’ll get them greased up this after noon.

 

[Kernal]

Good place to add this for future searches FWIW

The FSM (Factory Service Manual) calls for a Moly (Molybdenum) fortified grease for the slip yolk. Pump grease until the shaft starts to push apart OR (too late this time) first remove the zerk fitting then pull the slip yolk out from the driveshaft before you install it to grease the splines. Be sure to mark both components to help line them up later.

FWIW one option (not required) is to coat the splines with a dry Moly coating followed by Moly grease. Another method is to brush Loctite LB 8012 Moly Paste (65% Moly) on both the slip yolk and driveshaft splines followed by a Moly grease. I also pack (some) moly grease into the slip yolk cavity before sliding the slip yolk back into the shaft with the zerk fitting removed (any excess will come out the zerk fitting hole). Then when installing the shaft pull the slip yolk out when bolting onto the flange. Reinstall the zerk fitting, go for drive.

For the U-joints pump (grease) until fresh grease comes out of each of the four end caps of the spider. For new joints you'll first see the yellow grease come
out followed by whichever grease you're using.

Couple of photos showing a new slip yolk pulled out of the driveshaft.

Note the small amount of yellow assembly grease (I clean that out if applying Dry Moly coatings FWIW):

Shaft/slip yolk separated, splines cleaned/degreased prior to applying a dry Moly coating. Both the CRC Dry Moly and the Molykote D-321R (after they first dry at ambient temperature) can be cured using a heat gun set on low before adding grease and reassembling. The D-321R is the better dry coating (has a binding resin, Molybdenum, and Graphite) but also is much more expensive ($60+). Of the choices below the Moly Paste (LB 8012) in addition to grease is the better product in this application IMO.

Neither of the the Dry Moly coatings or the LB 8012 Moly paste in this example should be used by themselves ie: be sure to also grease the slip yolk if either are applied to the splines. Also note that none of these coatings are required by the FSM, just one (personal) method to boost the protection for a shaft that may not come apart again for a few hundred thousand miles.

Loctite LB 8012 "Moly Paste" contains 65% Molybdenum Disulfide (same lubricant as what's in "Moly" fortified grease)

LB 8012 Moly Lubricant (Paste) applied to the slip yolk and driveshaft splines and starting to add Moly grease to slip yolk cavity prior to reassembly

Tip: zerk (grease) fitting should be removed until shaft is reinstalled on vehicle

Excess grease coming out of the zerk fitting hole after reassembly:
Tip: 7mm deep socket used to remove/install zerk

 

[dsmud4u]

^^^ this is excellent!

 

[ikarus]

Good place to add this for future searches FWIW

The FSM (Factory Service Manual) calls for a Moly (Molybdenum) fortified grease for the slip yolk. Pump grease until the shaft starts to push apart OR (too late this time) first remove the zerk fitting then pull the slip yolk out from the driveshaft before you install it to grease the splines. Be sure to mark both components to help line them up later.

FWIW one option (not required) is to coat the splines with a dry Moly coating followed by Moly grease. Another method is to brush Loctite LB 8012 Moly Paste (65% Moly) on both the slip yolk and driveshaft splines followed by a Moly grease. I also pack (some) moly grease into the slip yolk cavity before sliding the slip yolk back into the shaft with the zerk fitting removed (any excess will come out the zerk fitting hole). Then when installing the shaft pull the slip yolk out when bolting onto the flange. Reinstall the zerk fitting, go for drive.

For the U-joints pump (grease) until fresh grease comes out of each of the four end caps of the spider. For new joints you'll first see the yellow grease come
out followed by whichever grease you're using.

Couple of photos showing a new slip yolk pulled out of the driveshaft.

Note the small amount of yellow assembly grease (I clean that out if applying Dry Moly coatings FWIW):

View attachment 3852115

View attachment 3852117


Shaft/slip yolk separated, splines cleaned/degreased prior to applying a dry Moly coating. Both the CRC Dry Moly and the Molykote D-321R can be cured quicker using a heat gun set on low before adding grease and reassembling. The D-321R is the better dry coating (has a binding resin and Graphite) but also is much more expensive. Of the choices below the Moly Paste (LB 8012 in addition to grease) is the better product in this application IMO.

Neither the Dry Moly coating or the LB 8012 Moly paste in this example should be used by themselves ie: be sure to also grease the slip yolk if either are applied to the splines. Also note that none of these coatings are required by the FSM, just one (personal) method to boost the protection for a shaft that may not come apart again for a few hundred thousand miles.

View attachment 3852118


Loctite LB 8012 "Moly Paste" contains 65% Molybdenum Disulfide (same lubricant as what's in "Moly" fortified grease)

View attachment 3852125


LB 8012 Moly Lubricant (Paste) applied to the slip yolk and driveshaft splines and starting to add Moly grease to slip yolk cavity prior to reassembly

Tip: zerk fitting should be removed until shaft is reinstalled on vehicle

View attachment 3855545

Thanks for sharing all this!