Double Cardan Drive Shaft Solutions
- Thread starter Bear80
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I've had more than 10 shafts made now and the dimensions I posted earlier is what I use. What are you looking for again?
You posted 31" flange to flange compressed, my rig measures 31 1/4" flange to flange with the DS installed on the rig sitting on flat ground relaxed. The place I took my DS to have cut measured it and wrote 31 1/4" on the shaft but when I picked it up and I put it on I had to extend it to connect it. I took the DS and measured it flange to flange compressed and it measures 30".
My question I asked was, is this too short? Will I have problems during off roading?
My question I asked was, is this too short? Will I have problems during off roading?
I don't know the actual spline engagement on those shafts but would assume that you will be OK.
So bent my rear drive shaft pretty good so its about time to make a dc rear BUT my bastard child is a '94 non-abs, Semi Float rear axle and no viscous coupler transfer case. Rear drive shafts are different lengths on fj80 vs fzj80's correct?
What Length do i need for making a rear DS?
What is the stock length of a fj80 rear ds? Is that the length i need my new one to be?
What Length do i need for making a rear DS?
What is the stock length of a fj80 rear ds? Is that the length i need my new one to be?
When making one for the rear DS using a 4runner DC shaft: does the slip yoke part go on the rear 3rd member side?
FYI, the slip stub matches the same one the t-case and rear 3rd side...perfectly.
FYI, the slip stub matches the same one the t-case and rear 3rd side...perfectly.
Well, I already paid $125 for the Tundra shaft and the driveline shop already has it. I'll call Monday morning and ask them about your concerns.
You may want to edit your initial post to reflect your new thoughts on the Tundra shaft.
I will report back to this thread on whether the driveline shop is able to convert my Tundra shaft and make it strong and reliable...
And THANKS for all your work on this DC solution!!
Well, I wish the original post was modified too.... I just dropped off a tundra shaft and they said they were concerned if it would work to but they are going to try. If it doesn't work, I'm out 125 bucks.
Should have read all 7 pages before I went out and bought a tundra shaft.
Anyone else modify a tundra shaft? Results?
Does anyone have actual bolt hole pattern dimensions for a Taco DC CV?
Information
Hi,
I read the thread but i'm confused, my questions is:
I know toyota tacoma xtra cab rear drivesahft will be fits on front 80 series lifted but -what kind transmission (automatic or manual)?
-4x4 or 4x2?
-4 or 6 cyl?
-what kind of engine?
-what years?
Thank you and sorry guys for those questions.
Hi,
I read the thread but i'm confused, my questions is:
I know toyota tacoma xtra cab rear drivesahft will be fits on front 80 series lifted but -what kind transmission (automatic or manual)?
-4x4 or 4x2?
-4 or 6 cyl?
-what kind of engine?
-what years?
Thank you and sorry guys for those questions.
bump
Bump for what? How many DC shaft threads do we need going simultaneously?
There's good information in this thread, especially around Toyota parts. I went with a DC shaft, for convenience. I really needed to do more homework, but the group by for the DC shafts was available, so I bought DC shafts. In hindsight, I wish I had gone with a different solution, especially about going with Spicer joints over Toyota. More information is usually not a bad thing.
I'm aware of your situation and the lack of understanding with your choices. But that doesn't seem to slow you down.
LOL, regret and a shrinking bank account are slowing me down plenty! 
the bottom line is unless you are building a dedicated trail rig, you don't want a DC rear drive shaft. Even if you are building a dedicated trail rig a rear DC shaft is likely a bad choice. But hey, it was a group buy!
Yeah, I figured it was a good thing to get the DC because mine had bad splines and I didn't know any better. No idea the mess I was getting into. This trip coming up is freaking me out!!
Ideally I'd buy a couple sets of those Landtank HD units to roll the pinion down and get my OEM shaft splines replaced. That's maybe an option in the short term but depends on how fast I can get parts delivered quite a far cry from the present option of living with the DC shaft and getting adjustable UCAs. I can't make up my mind but long, long term, I want OEM shaft back. What an ordeal!
Ideally I'd buy a couple sets of those Landtank HD units to roll the pinion down and get my OEM shaft splines replaced. That's maybe an option in the short term but depends on how fast I can get parts delivered quite a far cry from the present option of living with the DC shaft and getting adjustable UCAs. I can't make up my mind but long, long term, I want OEM shaft back. What an ordeal!
@Bear80 8year old thread, so remembering might be hazy, but I'm in route to go get a 4runner rear shaft to mod mine in the rear of my 80. My question, on the 96-02 4runner shaft, I'm assuming it's out of a V6 automatic? Hope you can remember, and respond quick, as I'm about 5min from the wrecking yard! Thanks for the help!After lifting an 80 series past a certain point and or correcting the front castor to account for the lift, a double cardan (DC) joint drive shaft will be needed. Slee Off-Road offers an excellent solution with all new quality Spicer joints and also a local drive shaft shop can make any custom shaft for your needs. However, my personal preference is to keep with Toyota Koyo joints AND half the price of a new shaft. There is a Toyota solution for both the front AND rear of the 80 series.
Double cardan shafts for the front
The most common has been to find a rear shaft off an '95.5-'04 extra or double cab Tacoma. The bolt patterns will match at both the pinion and t-case, however the Tacoma shaft is longer in length. A competent drive shaft shop can easily re-tube it to the needed length. The other solution is to use the rear shaft off an '00-'07 Tundra extra cab, which will also need to be shortened. Both solutions are cheap, costing half the price of a new shaft and you will have Koyo joints.
Here is the Trundra shaft on the front t-case:
Double cardan shafts for the rear
Keep in mind that the bolt pattern and bolts on the rear shaft of the Land Cruiser are BIGGER than the front. It is possible to use a rear shaft off an '96-'02 4x4 4Runner. The bolt pattern will ONLY match at the t-case. The 4Runner uses a smaller slip yoke and flange at the pinion. The only solution is to have a drive shaft shop re-tube the shaft with a new slip yoke and flange to match the Land Cruiser's pinion OR cannibalize your original shaft for the slip yoke and flange. This shouldn't be much more trouble since the 4runner shaft is longer and needs to be cut down anyway. This would also be the time to use thicker tubing.
Here is the 4Runner shaft on the rear t-case:
-----------------------
Also the front shaft from a pre-'84 FJ60 will not idealy work in the rear becuase a change in flange designs. Front shafts off a pre-tacoma or '84-'95 4Runner will also not work on either the front or rear of the 80 series. However, the DC joints from these shafts can be used if the LC's tube with slip yoke flange is matted to then. Then the flange(s) on the t-case must be drilled to accept the new bolt pattern from these joints. I would consider this a less than ideal solution but no less a possiblity.
-Phildoh
How did your rear DC shaft build up and install work out? I'm in the same situation.
