- Thread starter
- #101
It will on the REAR of the cruiser.
The Tacoma shaft needs to be from a 4x4 or prerunner without a doubt.
Double Cardan Drive Shaft Solutions
- Thread starter Bear80
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
It will on the REAR of the cruiser.
The Tacoma shaft needs to be from a 4x4 or prerunner without a doubt.
Question for you guys running a DC rear shaft: Any issue with the rear pinion bearing not getting enough lube (without adding another filler higher on the diff)?
A friend of mine just suggested that these, offered by Inchworm, might be a possible solution to make using the cv shaft from an earlier mini an affordable option.
Inchworm Gear - Toyota Rockcrawling Equipment
Thoughts? I have an email in to Inchworm to see what they think as well.
Inchworm Gear - Toyota Rockcrawling Equipment
Thoughts? I have an email in to Inchworm to see what they think as well.
Well, a little further along now. The non-cv end of the earlier cv front shaft bolts up to the FJ80 diff with no problem. I called Inchworm today to confirm that one of the three flanges offered would fit the front output of the FJ80 t-case - no help there. Apparently, they have no cross reference data on the FJ80??? Guy told me to pull my shaft and measure it.....thanks
. I'll try to get that done tonight unless someone has the bolt patern information on the 80's t-case handy.
. I'll try to get that done tonight unless someone has the bolt patern information on the 80's t-case handy.
Just so you know, the "flange" on both the front and rear outputs on the 80 t-case isn't replaceable like mini t-cases are. The flange and shaft are all one piece on 80's.
Jack
Jack
Well, a little further along now. The non-cv end of the earlier cv front shaft bolts up to the FJ80 diff with no problem. I called Inchworm today to confirm that one of the three flanges offered would fit the front output of the FJ80 t-case - no help there. Apparently, they have no cross reference data on the FJ80??? Guy told me to pull my shaft and measure it.....thanks
Thanks Jack but if you had followed the link I provided you would have found flange adapters (not adapter flanges).
These do not replace the existing flange. They simply bolt on and the allow two other flange pattern choices to be used.Granted, it would be preferable to find the appropriate Tacoma driveshaft and have to re-tubed as no adapter would be necessary. Unfortunately, in my part of the world there seem to be no Tacoma candidates in the wrecking yards. The earlier mini-trucks are everywhere and the cv shafts can be had cheap. This, for me, might be a cheaper option than the hard to fnd locally Tacoma shafts when shipping cost is factored in. Just trying to explore some options at this point.
does anyone has pics of the "ball" grease fitting...I thought I had this figured out and this weekend while under the truck I could not find a Needle fitting zirk. I have had 2 slee shafts and the one on the truck now was purchased 1 year ago. I know that they both look very different...do all of the Slee ones have the needle zirk??
Can someone confirm or elaborate on why a Tundra rear shaft cannot be shortened for the front of an 80?
I just dropped a Tundra rear shaft off at Jim's Driveline and he said he'll retube it to the needed length for about $150. He said it was a pain but didn't indicate that it couldn't be done.
- Thread starter
- #109
The Tundra shaft is "fused" at each end where as most other Toyota shafts are sleved over welded. The Tundra shaft can be re-worked by the few shops that have the ability but the shaft will not be very robust. I dumped the Tundra shaft I had and went with a Tacoma. You should do the same.
BTW, sorry my whole write up is a cluster f* to understand. Once the shafts are viewed in person it will all make sense.
BTW, sorry my whole write up is a cluster f* to understand. Once the shafts are viewed in person it will all make sense.
Well, I already paid $125 for the Tundra shaft and the driveline shop already has it. I'll call Monday morning and ask them about your concerns.
You may want to edit your initial post to reflect your new thoughts on the Tundra shaft.
I will report back to this thread on whether the driveline shop is able to convert my Tundra shaft and make it strong and reliable...
And THANKS for all your work on this DC solution!!
Last edited:
Just got a call from the drive line shop....my Tundra rear shaft has been shortened and is ready to go.
The issue with the Tundra shaft is that it has some sort of pinch seam were the tubes connect on both ends of the shaft; the Tacoma shafts have their tubes welded.
The shop was able to make me a reliable and strong shaft with the Tundra shaft, it just took them a lot longer. More machining and then adding material via welding to fit 2 3/4" tube.
Bottom line, find a Tacoma shaft for this conversion. If you already bought a Tundra shaft for this conversion (like I had), the right shop can do the work. I will pay $175 to the drive line shop; I paid $125 for the Tundra shaft from the junk yard. So I'm $300 out the door for a reliable DC shaft with the Toyota ujoints- still not bad.
The owner of the driveline shop did tell me if someone wants the same conversion on a Tundra shaft in the future, he will charge $225 - $250. I got the $175 because he estimated his original cost ($150) to low and just passed some of the unforseen cost on to me.
The issue with the Tundra shaft is that it has some sort of pinch seam were the tubes connect on both ends of the shaft; the Tacoma shafts have their tubes welded.
The shop was able to make me a reliable and strong shaft with the Tundra shaft, it just took them a lot longer. More machining and then adding material via welding to fit 2 3/4" tube.
Bottom line, find a Tacoma shaft for this conversion. If you already bought a Tundra shaft for this conversion (like I had), the right shop can do the work. I will pay $175 to the drive line shop; I paid $125 for the Tundra shaft from the junk yard. So I'm $300 out the door for a reliable DC shaft with the Toyota ujoints- still not bad.
The owner of the driveline shop did tell me if someone wants the same conversion on a Tundra shaft in the future, he will charge $225 - $250. I got the $175 because he estimated his original cost ($150) to low and just passed some of the unforseen cost on to me.
Last edited:
it should
The shaft from the 2002 Tacoma Extended cab truck has a center carrier bearing. I am not sure exactly what I need to start with so I need a little assitance. I fly out tomorrow for my 2 week honeymoon and am trying to secure a DC for when I get back. I need to get rid of this noise in the drive train. Any assistance is much appreciated.
the 4x4 Tacomas have a two piece drive shaft. The front section has a carrier bearing and the rear section has the DC section. You only need the rear section and then have it retubed.
WOW! I got back from my Honeymoon and picked up the drive shaft and the guy pulls out an OEM Toyota drive shaft box and opens it to reveal what looks like a brand new DS!! He said it had 3K on it and I handed him $100 and loaded it up. I also picked up a '97 4x4 4runner rear shaft for $75 that had a nice joint but I am going to deal with the rear later when I have more time. Now I gotta get this thing cut and balanced. From what I read it looks like 32" is the magic number for the shaft length for the front.
Ok I am gonna need some help getting my head wrapped around this.
I took my DS to the shop to get cut and the guy came out and crawled under my rig and measured the relaxed flange to flange distance (31 1/4"). He wrote it on the DS and I left and waited for the phone call. I went and picked it up and just went to put it on and seen I had to extend the new shaft a lot more than the old shaft I just took off. I took it back off and laid the 2 side by side and the new shaft is shorter than the old shaft by almost 2 inches. The new DS is 30" from flange to flange with the DS fully compressed. I called and talked to them and they said this is required to make sure there was enough room for when you go over bumps and go wheeling. If you lift a vehicle and correct the castor with SLEE's plates, would you need a shorter than stock DS? I am trying to understand this. Your comments are welcomed.
I took my DS to the shop to get cut and the guy came out and crawled under my rig and measured the relaxed flange to flange distance (31 1/4"). He wrote it on the DS and I left and waited for the phone call. I went and picked it up and just went to put it on and seen I had to extend the new shaft a lot more than the old shaft I just took off. I took it back off and laid the 2 side by side and the new shaft is shorter than the old shaft by almost 2 inches. The new DS is 30" from flange to flange with the DS fully compressed. I called and talked to them and they said this is required to make sure there was enough room for when you go over bumps and go wheeling. If you lift a vehicle and correct the castor with SLEE's plates, would you need a shorter than stock DS? I am trying to understand this. Your comments are welcomed.
NO, it's 31" flange to flange compressed. 32" is just a little too long.
