Double Cardan Drive Shaft Solutions

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rockclmbr said:
I'm interested!

Did you mean it would be 'Less' money? I hope ;)
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I doubt it. Since the great Tacoma buy back these shafts have been a little more scarce. So sourcing, re-tubing and balancing brings them in higher than what Slee gets for his. I personally think they are worth it but that's just me.

You have to realize that the cheapest way to get Koyo parts is to buy one of these shafts and re-tube it. So right now it's the most cost effective OEM solution but you could buy a new Tacoma shaft for @ $1700.00 and re-tube it if you wanted brand new.
 
you could buy a new Tacoma shaft for @ $1700.00
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That puts it in perspective!

I found a few used Taco shafts at TOY Connection in Santa Clara for $150. I'm going to go down there tomorrow and hopefully find a low mileage one. Any tips on inspecting them to see if they are worth purchasing??
 
rockclmbr said:
Hopefully someone from this thread can help out. I've got a Front Double Cardan DS from Slee that has crapped out after only 4,700miles. I've also lubed it 3x with Mobile 1 synth grease. After my last trail, I heard a chirp and when I got home I traced it down the front DS at the DC joint.
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Did you grease the u-joints and the ball with a needle adapter? Or just the joints. Lots of people grease the u-joints but not the ball. I would be glad to get it back and ask the driveline shop why it failed.

I've dropped it off at a local driveline shop and they said of course it failed, it is a mixture of Chinese and Australian parts. Go American and you won't need to look back. He is also quoting me around $450 to make a nice all American component shaft that will last.
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I have yet to see a driveline shop that does not criticize a shaft brought in and blame either bad workmanship or parts. The DC joint we use are all new Spicer parts. Now if Spicer decided that they need to make those in China I do not know. The weird thing is that when we used joints from Rockford (USA made) we had way more failures and could only use about 60% of the new joints we received from them. Them rest was returned. One of the reasons why we abandoned the Koyo like joint.

Did your shop actually say they saw MADE IN CHINA on the parts, or are the just speculating?

I'd prefer to go all Toyota and am now searching for the simplest way without having to drill out the flanges on the Transfer Case.
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Drilling the flanges is not an option unless you remove the output shaft from the case. There is studs pressed into it so you have to remove it, press the studs out, then redrill.
 
every other respected driveline shop uses spicer joints. (tom woods, high angle driveline, etc) They are the industry standard. the yota joint hype is just hype-not better enough to warrant the extra pain to have them. The only reason they last so long is because the yota guys are all so anal and service the hell out of everything.
 
Christo, thanks for the reply. Yes, I did grease all 3 fittings on the DC end and the 2 fittings on the single u-joint end. The one in the middle of the CV does require a needle or special adapter on the grease gun and I did that one 3x over a period of 2 years and less than 5,000 miles.

I don't see any markings or numbers on them so I cannot attest to what make/model they are. I do believe each shop will push their own product such as the one I am working with now. They said regardless of maintenance, they are crappy components and will fail prematurely ever time. Whatever. It is already done and I'm glad I found it at home in the driveway.

I ended up finding a local Toyota salvage yard with a decent looking Taco rear DS. I'm having the driveline shop cut and weld a new tube in place to keep it all KOYO / Toyota.

Thanks for the assistance guys!:cheers: Hopefully I do not have to look back.

As for the crapolla driveshaft, not sure what to do with it.
 
What seal was blown out? Also what part failed. The chirping noise is typically from the ball being dry.
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at the end of one of the U-joints on the CV side, there is a rubber gasket/seal shaped like an o-ring that is sticking out of the bearing cup(??) I'm not familiar with all of the parts, but it looks like the grease pressure blew it out and then the grease was not contained, therefore it dried out and failed. That is my educated guess. It looks very dry and the metal is freshly worn there as well.


I guess us anal Toyota guys grease the hell outta everything way too much. :p

What do you guys recommend for grease? I've been using the red Mobil 1 Synth grease.
 
rockclmbr said:
at the end of one of the U-joints on the CV side, there is a rubber gasket/seal shaped like an o-ring that is sticking out of the bearing cup(??) I'm not familiar with all of the parts, but it looks like the grease pressure blew it out and then the grease was not contained, therefore it dried out and failed. That is my educated guess. It looks very dry and the metal is freshly worn there as well.


I guess us anal Toyota guys grease the hell outta everything way too much. :p

What do you guys recommend for grease? I've been using the red Mobil 1 Synth grease.
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Pics? That sounds like the u-joint itself. In which case the shaft would be good, you'd just need to replace a ~$30 part.:confused:
 
I picked up a rear Taco DS and had it re-tubed. After inspecting it and lubing it, it is very smooth and easy to lube compared to the last one. I think this is the way to go had I known more about it when I first needed a DC DS. Total cost was about $300. Now if only I could make up some of that with the old one.
 
rockclmbr said:
I picked up a rear Taco DS and had it re-tubed. After inspecting it and lubing it, it is very smooth and easy to lube compared to the last one. I think this is the way to go had I known more about it when I first needed a DC DS. Total cost was about $300. Now if only I could make up some of that with the old one.
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Jasper, I am glad u got ur DC SHAFT. Been reading on NORCAL E-MAILS. I too went to Toy Connection in Santa Clara and sourced an 04 rear Tacoma shaft.GREAT GUYS. Been working great ever since
 
is the drive shaft out of a 2 or 4 wheel drive or does it matter?
auto or stick ? 4 or 6 banger?


Im having trubbel finding one .
The guys r telling me that year had a two part shaft, is this bs or not?
 
for the Tacoma shaft all you are looking for is an extended frame. So either a extended cab or double cab truck. It makes no difference which drive train you have, And the stock shaft is a two part shaft and you only need the rear section.
 
My local wrecker has a 4 runner shaft for $100 will it work ?
 
landtank said:
for the Tacoma shaft all you are looking for is an extended frame. So either a extended cab or double cab truck. It makes no difference which drive train you have, And the stock shaft is a two part shaft and you only need the rear section.
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Rick Im pretty sure it also needs to be a 4wd or pre-runner model, the taller suspension requiring the dc shaft. The model i checked on the phone about was a basic crew cab and it did not have the needed shaft, luckily they had a 4wd ext. cab there which had the dc.:cheers:
 
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