Double Cardan Drive Shaft Solutions (1 Viewer)

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I still have a new Rear DC shaft built by Tatton in my garage for sale. It needs a home...:D
 
Dissent said:
I still have a new Rear DC shaft built by Tatton in my garage for sale. It needs a home...:D
Click to expand...
I'm sure Tatton used a Spicer 1310 CV (DC) joint which is substantially weaker than the Toyota stuff. The 80 series rear U-joints are large because they take the most abuse and a well built 80 can be quite heavy when also loaded up. Add to that over sized tires and the demand on that rear shaft goes up sharply. In fact the bearing caps on the 80 rear joint is a full 1/10th of an inch larger in diameter than both the Spicer 1350 and 1410 u-joint which are considered 1 ton. I measured myself.
 
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I've built rear shafts for people who ask. I source the DC joint from a 4Runner. I then retube it to a rear 80 shaft as the slip yoke end is different on the 4Runner.

I believe you can use a rear Tundra shaft but I haven't. So I'm not sure what is used from those.
 
Very true on all counts...still for sale...;)
 
@baldilocks I sourced mine (DC donor shaft) from a 4runner as mentioned from a dismantled in Rancho Cordova for $75. Took it to Driveline Service in West Sac and they re-tubed it for me, and put some new ujoints in it while it was there. The only problem I ran into was with adjusting my @sleeoffroad upper links. *note to Slee* The uppers don't have quite enough meat in them to adjust them out safely, to get the 1° pinion angle as requested by the Driveline shop. The closest it could get was just under 3.5°, so I was a little hesitant at first, but now that it's been in there and AOK for over a month, maybe two, all is fine. I do also have the upgraded lower links from Slee as well, non adjustable, and this is where I can only see having fully adjustable links be worth the money. Again, they said 1° is where you want to be, greater than that may cause an ever so slight vibration. I can go 85 down the freeway, on 37's, and put it in neutral and it's as smooth as can be! No driveline vibes, tire shake it anything! I'm so happy I found this mod as I was close to getting a fully custom shaft that would have cost close to $650, but out the door, with donor, I'm at about $225 or so with the new ujoints. I did get new ujoints at the dealer, and forgot them when u dripped it all off, so I have two shiny new factory trail spares in my parts box! I can get the name of the parts dismantler if you'd like, I went to one of the smaller ones as they're cheaper than TAP, or the larger ones. I got the $75 quote and didn't hesitate, nor bother calling the other wreckers. $75 is a very fair price for a DC shaft in good working order. I'm probably going to go and get another one made as a spare too. Only for the long haul trips like Colorado, Moab and the similar. I'll look up the dismantler and report back shortly!
Cheers!
 
Here ya go @baldilocks!
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Phildoh said:
@baldilocks I sourced mine (DC donor shaft) from a 4runner as mentioned from a dismantled in Rancho Cordova for $75. Took it to Driveline Service in West Sac and they re-tubed it for me, and put some new ujoints in it while it was there. The only problem I ran into was with adjusting my @sleeoffroad upper links. *note to Slee* The uppers don't have quite enough meat in them to adjust them out safely, to get the 1° pinion angle as requested by the Driveline shop. The closest it could get was just under 3.5°, so I was a little hesitant at first, but now that it's been in there and AOK for over a month, maybe two, all is fine. I do also have the upgraded lower links from Slee as well, non adjustable, and this is where I can only see having fully adjustable links be worth the money. Again, they said 1° is where you want to be, greater than that may cause an ever so slight vibration. I can go 85 down the freeway, on 37's, and put it in neutral and it's as smooth as can be! No driveline vibes, tire shake it anything! I'm so happy I found this mod as I was close to getting a fully custom shaft that would have cost close to $650, but out the door, with donor, I'm at about $225 or so with the new ujoints. I did get new ujoints at the dealer, and forgot them when u dripped it all off, so I have two shiny new factory trail spares in my parts box! I can get the name of the parts dismantler if you'd like, I went to one of the smaller ones as they're cheaper than TAP, or the larger ones. I got the $75 quote and didn't hesitate, nor bother calling the other wreckers. $75 is a very fair price for a DC shaft in good working order. I'm probably going to go and get another one made as a spare too. Only for the long haul trips like Colorado, Moab and the similar. I'll look up the dismantler and report back shortly!
Cheers!
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info. The dismantlers I have contacted want well over $100. This will compliment my shaft nicely as Driveline Service has already replaced my slip joint and retubed it with a rock bashing .188 wall tube.
I have MT uppers and lowers so plenty of beef and adjustability.
Can you post a photo of your rear springs? I'm curious as to the amount of bow induced by the pinion angle without cutting and clocking the spring buckets.
 
What's the flange-to-flange length on one of these puppies? Wondering if it will make a good off-the-self option for an FJ62 rear, I recall someone saying FJ62 and FZJ80 shared one of the driveshaft lengths in some way...
 
NLXTACY said:
Thanks. The DC shaft is in stock and will be shipping from MA actually to keep the time down. Likely too late for today but should be going out tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Fantastic. Hopefully it will be here before my trip next weekend.

I had some vibes in my new truck with 6" lift. It was sitting at -4 caster and was a bit scary. I removed 2" spacers which brought it to -1 caster which was much more manageable but not perfect. It did however eliminate my vibrations. After installing caster plates it drives great but the vibes are the worse yet. I haven't put it on th rack yet but I am interested in seeing where my caster is now.
 
cruisermatt said:
What's the flange-to-flange length on one of these puppies? Wondering if it will make a good off-the-self option for an FJ62 rear, I recall someone saying FJ62 and FZJ80 shared one of the driveshaft lengths in some way...
Click to expand...

I'll measure when I get back
 
Ever get that measurement Joey?
 
Still would like a measurement. I have a doubler set-up so I need shorter rear driveshaft, also doing a two-piece front with a carrier bearing, if I can use the same drive-shaft front and rear and both be DC and BOTH be made with off-the shelf parts that would be killer. The u-joints and splines are the same so I can just swap the slip yoke.
 
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